I have also already reviewed this model, the Essence – albeit a pre-production sample, and it was also the COSC version with a different dial. Check out that review here.

Now, the Essence is fully available, so I was desperate to get my hands on the final production version of the standard non-COSC model. Let’s check it out.

The specs

• Dimensions: 43mm diameter x 10mm height x 49mm lug to lug
• Weight: 102g
• Water resistance rating: 10ATM / 100m
• Movement: ETA 2824-2
• Accuracy: +1.8 sec/day
• Lug width: 22mm
• Warranty: 3 years
• Price: £710 / $785
• Buy here: Use this link to get a free strap – https://bit.ly/324wMnI

The video review

The case

The diameter of 43mm is quite possibly on the larger side for some, however, due to the slender height of 10mm and reasonable lug-to-lug length I don’t find it wears that large.

The svelte height is a surprise due to the patented case suspension system built within the case, a remarkable feat of engineering that is subtly hidden away – yet is obvious once you know how it works. Some may feel it’s just a marketing ploy and it doesn’t actually do anything – however, Formex insists it is an excellent shock absorber, for both the protection of the mechanical movement and also for comfort.

The suspension system is fully integrated inside the case, but the four struts are visible in the corners of the case. The secretion is cleverly done, the split between the inner and outer sections is at the base of the bezel – you’d never know. The crown also moves up and down, but you can’t see the void as it’s kept behind the crown itself.

On the caseback, the split is most obvious, a shapely line following the perimeter of the case.

As you’d expect, the Essence utilises sapphire crystals on the front and back. The anti-reflective coating they use is quite simply, the best I’ve ever come across on an affordable watch. It’s so gloriously clear, it makes such an incredible amount of difference to how the watch appears, it portrays it as a much more luxury timepiece. It takes the watch to the next level and provides an even more luxurious appearance.

The caseback itself is rather shallow, it’s simple but has an industrial feel to it due to the 8 screws and various specifics deeply engraved around the outer edge, such as the model number and year of manufacture.

The crown features super thick grip, along with angled sides for a decent purchase. The size is just right in terms of ratio to the case, and it features a polished finished outer edge with an inset hexagon.

The finishing is flawless throughout, with a vertical brushed finish on the front of the bezel, flanked by a polished bevel which is cut out by the suspension struts. The case is more or less fully brushed, bar a polished bevelled edge around the outer edging. The fit and finish are excellent.

The dial

Funnily enough, the main complaint I read on comments on video reviews etc is Formex’s name itself – people saying it sounds like a chemical kitchen cleaner, construction company, or even worse – a condom brand. Personally, I’m not fussed at all. People would have probably said the same about Rolex if it was a new brand wasn’t the most widely recognised watch manufacturer in the world. The print work on the dial is all delicate and accurate.

The dial on the non-COSC version rocks an eye-catching sunray finish to it. The COSC version features horizontal lines; however, I think I prefer this version due to its simplicity.

The hands are rather utilitarian in design, whilst still maintaining a slender semi-elegant look. They could be described as a modern take on the alpha or leaf type hand,

The machined indices are styled similarly – and are remarkable when viewed up close. Raised batons, with angled corners and bevelled polished edges containing a lumed channel in the centre. They are all the same, bar a double at 12 and a shorter one at 6 for the date window.

The lume on the hands and hour markers is BGW9 Super-LumiNova. Whilst it’s not out of this world, it’s as you’d expect and performs reasonably.

The date window is located at 6, which I always like to see as it keeps the dial symmetrical. Perhaps the wheel could have been blue to match the dial, but the white definitely helps legibility. Either side of the window is a slope towards the wheel, so it’s not just a simple square cut out of the dial – it’s always good to see attention to detail like that.

The strap

The strap is made of deliciously soft Italian leather, with a supremely comfortable rustic charm to it. The top grain is apparent and provides plenty of character. I’m a big fan of the matching blue to go with the dial.

The strap features curved quick release spring bars, which result in a very snug fit to the case – which is a positive visually in my books.

The folding clasp is another work of art, one that may not get much attention as it is well hidden. It’s made of carbon fibre composite and boasts a patented micro-adjust mechanism which is very easy to use: you simply depress the button and slide it to adjust.

The only thing that I feel is a slight negative is that the strap “feels” the wrong way round – when looking at the watch, the long tail is sticking out the bottom rather than the top. It is all visual, I have no criticism regarding construction or build quality.

The movement

The movement is hard to beat: the ubiquitous ETA 2824-2. Solid, dependable, and highly regarded by many as the best automatic movement going; this movement is the benchmark all others are set against. Formex uses the elaboré grade, which comes out of the factory slightly better regulated.

Specs include 25 jewels, 38 hours power reserve, a high-beat rate of 28.8k bph (8 ticks per second), and hand and automatic winding capabilities.

There’s a small amount of customisation in the form of the Formex logo printed on the standard rotor.

Final comments

I’m not going to lie, I’m an all-put Formex fanboy. Each of the watches I’ve reviewed of theirs has exceeded expectations and portray sensational value for money. Whilst £710 isn’t “cheap”, it’s still a beautiful feat of engineering for the price.

The fit and finish are spotless, the design and construction are flawless; you truly are getting a luxury watch without the price tag.

I adore the anti-reflective crystal – it makes the watch stand out. And the suspension case may be portrayed as a marketing gimmick, but it certainly impresses.

The only real “issue” I have, albeit very minor, is the tail of the strap pointing the opposite way to normal. It doesn’t affect the comfort of the watch in any way; it’s more of a visual niggle.

However, I can certainly look past that and say that the Formex Essence is one of my favourite new releases this year, hands down.

The post Formex Essence Watch Review – Post Kickstarter appeared first on 12&60.

Hence why I was very excited to learn that they’re releasing a new model, even cheaper (mainly as it’s an auto rather than a chrono), but with the same level of detail and design. Coming to Kickstarter this month (25th September 2018) – please note this is a press model, so it’s travelled a fair bit. Please also note that the dial is different on the two different models (standard auto vs COSC) – this is the COSC version, whilst the standard auto alternative does not have the CNC machined lines, but rather a sunburst effect.

Let’s check it out.

Video Review

The specs

• Dimensions: 43mm diameter x 10mm height x 49mm lug to lug
• Weight: 99g
• Water resistance rating: 10ATM / 100m
• Movement: standard auto – ETA 2824-2; COSC – Sellita SW200-1
• Accuracy: +0.8 sec/day (Sellita SW200-1)
• Lug width: 22mm
• Warranty: 3 years
• Price:
  • pledges start from $385 / ~£300 for standard auto; from $680 / ~£525 for COSC
  • RRP will be approx 687€ (standard) and 1100€ (COSC)
• Kickstarter link: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/formexessence/essence-cosc-certified-swiss-made-automatic-watch
• Buy here: https://www.formexwatch.com/essence-watch-launching/choose-your-essence/

The case

Keeping to their patented “suspension” system, the case on the Essence is rather remarkable for the price. Completely disguised, you’d be forgiven for not even realising how intriguing the case is. You can see the inner section divide from the outer case from underneath, but from above it’s not even noticeable – the base of the bezel is what raises when the suspension is activated. Watch the video review above to see it in action.

Considering this is a press loaner, the case is still in good nick; and the machining is very neat and precise. There’s a mixture of finishing – brushed sides and lugs with a polished slither at the top shoulders, and a polished rim to the bezel; with the top brushed. All angles and edges are crisp.

The push-pull crown has a polished ridge with toothed edging, providing good grip. It has a plain end with an embossed hexagonal.

As I’ve always found with Formex, one of the key things to create an eye-catching, luxurious feel is by having an amazing crystal with anti-reflective coating. It’s the same here – the AR coating is superb, and far beyond what I’d expect on a watch starting at £300.

What’s also of note is what’s not visible, the inner container is made of titanium grade 2, keeping the inner workings light and strong.

The exhibition caseback has a ring surrounding the window with all the details deeply engraved within.

Really the only thing to keep in mind is that it’s actually pretty large at 43mm in diameter, and the lugs are also quite wide so it does wear that big, albeit rather slender in height.

The dial

The dial is available in black, blue, brown or silver (this one). It’s a simple yet modern design, thanks to the shape of the hands and the style of the logo alongside the font.

The printed logo on the final version will be one row lower, creating better balance in the top half.

The main feature of the dial of the COSC version is the vertical brush with horizontal CNC machined channels. The rehaut is steel to match the dial base, with a subtle minute track printed within. Please note that the standard version will not have the lines, but rather a sunburst effect.

The machined hour markers and hands are filled with BGW9 lume, in a style that is similar to the Element – which I think is a good thing; not only are they cool and unique; it also keeps a theme through all the families.

The date window is neatly inset within the dial, with a ramp to the left and right.

The lume strength is pretty standard, nothing too outstanding – however I have been informed that this press loaner is not loaded with BGW9 lume; so it’s not as strong as the final production model. It’ll also glow a cool blue rather than green.

The strap

Available in black, blue, or brown; the strap is made of soft, supple leather with matching stitching. on the final version, it’ll hug the case more creating a more seamless experience. It’ll also have quick release pins and the buckle will be removable without tools which is cool.

The clasp is the same as on the Element, a very clever, light carbon fibre style butterfly clasp with an intuitive micro adjust. The buckle itself will have the Formex logo engraved on the end with a more stylised finish.

The movement

It’s very impressive that Formex has selected these movements for the price. The standard auto houses the ETA 2824-2; whilst the COSC version boasts the Sellita SW200-1 (COSC certified of course).

The version here isn’t officially COSC certified as it’s just a sample, but it’s the same Sellita that’ll be used, with the same cool customised rotor.

Final comments

Without a doubt, it’s a watch worth buying. The build quality is brilliant, and it’s a striking design too. Personally, the non-COSC version is such impressive value for money I’d not bother with the COSC version for nearly double the price. A Swiss Made watch housing the ETA 2824-2 with an undoubted build quality and stunning anti-reflective crystal for ~£300? Sign up now, it sure ticks all the right boxes.

The post Formex Essence Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

Formex really impressed me with the AS1100, a motorsport themed automatic chronograph which was incredibly crafted for a seriously reasonable price.

They’ve now burst onto the scene with their latest range – the Element – boasting that it’s one of the best value Swiss Made automatic chronographs available. Their exact wording is that it’s “the most affordable high-end watch in the world” – quite the statement. It’s under £1,000, so whilst it’s not the cheapest Swiss auto chrono out there (for example the Tissot PRC200 can be had for around ~£700), when you consider the sheer nature of this watch you can immediately tell you’re getting something out of the ordinary.

Let’s take a closer look to see if their statements are true.

The specs

• Dimensions: 46mm diameter x 16mm height x 54mm lug to lug
• Weight: 160g
• Water resistance rating: 10ATM / 100m
• Movement: ETA Valjoux 7750
• Accuracy: -1.3 sec/day
• Lug width: 24.5mm
• Warranty: 3 years
• Price: £995
• Buy here: https://www.formexwatch.com/en/product/1200-1-8011-322/

The case

The case is constructed of 38 individual components, and is a real feat of engineering for this price point. It offers a variety of brushed, mirror-polished and sandblasted finishes. Let’s just start from the top and make our way down. It’s pretty huge at 46mm in diameter and 16mm high, so this may be a turn off for some immediately.

The bezel has a vertical brushed top and polished chamfered edge, with another smaller brushed ring around the base. There are 4 cut outs in each corner for the screw heads of the suspension system to poke through.

Within the bezel is a flat sapphire crystal, and just like the AS1100 it has a delightful anti-reflective coating. A decent AR really makes the difference between a good and a great watch; and the beautiful clarity here is stunning.

This brings us onto the case proper. Angular, aggressive, whilst soft to the eye. An exposed sandblasted central barrel sits within a brushed edged border.

Moving onto the case suspension system, one of the issues I found on the AS1100 was the wobbly pushers to allow the suspension to operate. It’s great to see that improvements have been made on the Element to allow the suspension to operate freely, but now the pushers remain steady and fixed in place – much better quality in construction.

The pushers are fully polished and moulded to follow the flow of the case.

The push / pull crown is large to match the case, with thick grip and a hexagonal cut out at the end with a sandblasted inner.

The caseback has a simple form, with a heavily smoked exhibition window in the centre. This is a real shame as I want to see the movement but the window is just too dark. A frosted ring surrounds it with the logo / model name / specs raised and brushed within. the model and serial numbers are lightly laser etched on the top two corners.

The dial

The dial is a slightly more simple affair than the case; but refreshingly so. I decided to go for the white version rather than the black brushed alternative – not only is it cheaper, but I also think it’s classier. With a glossy top it looks like ceramic, but it’s actually a regular brass dial with a satin paint and lacquer finish. The reflective nature of the paint is a sophisticated touch.

The 7750 movement dictates the layout of the dial: running seconds at 9, chronograph minutes at 12, chronograph hours at 6, and the day / date indicator at 3.

The main minute and hour hands are a pleasant and interesting shape, a slightly rounded sword with a brushed top, and polished edges. They have a skeletonised section at the base and a lumed tip. The seconds hand is a thin pointed tip with a brushed top and the counterweight is a similar shape to the hour markers.

All subdial hands are the same, and are a miniature version of the main hands. The running seconds hand is on the same layer as the rest of the dial, with a small print mark at each corner and 60 and 30.

The two subdials at 12 and 6 are at a slightly lower level, introducing a very subtle appearance of depth. They have a very light concentric circular pattern within which brings a small small amount of texture. Surrounding them is a metal chapter ring intricately manufactured with painted markings.

The day and date indicator has the Formex logo printed above and Element below, and has a horizontal brushed finish and polished edges.

The applied hour markers are all batons with a lumed channel down the centre – with a double at 12. It has a brushed side borders and slight tuck in at the corners. This shape is reused a lot throughout the dial which is a nice touch – in the hands, hour markers and the day / date indictor surround.

The lume is average, which is a shame – it would be epic if the lume was awesome too. But alas, we can’t have everything.

The rehaut has printed minute track. unfortunately it’s fractionally misaligned – it’s hard to notice; and is the only negative I’ve been able to spot on the Formex Element apart from the smoked caseback.

The strap

You get brown and black options for the leather strap, with crocodile and plain oiled textures. They come with quick release pins (I think all straps should) so switching between them is a doddle: check the video review, I switch the straps in about 30 seconds. It’s a weird lug width – just over 24mm (approx 24.5mm), so really you’re unlikely to find a perfect fitting after-market strap. However, the quality of them indicates you won’t need to.

Both straps I have are lovely and soft; the brown crocodile stamped option has a lovely colour and lighter stitching that compliments the oaky colour well.

The black strap has a gentle, matte texture to it, with a sporty contrasting white stitch. Both have that strong, distinctive leather smell which proves to me the quality of materials.

The folding butterfly clasp is another marvel of engineering. It features a patented fine-adjustment which allows you to extend or reduce the size by approximately 6mm. it’s super easy to use – just literally a push of a button and you glide it into position. This is genuinely a great addition – I find as the day progresses my wrist can swell or contract depending whether I’m feeling hot or cold so this helps keep a comfortable wear. The clasp is made of carbon fibre, with a soft consistency which feels pleasant on the wrist.

The buckle’s top bar is a trapezoid shape, with the logo deeply engraved. it has a brushed top, polished shoulders and a central sandblasted channel. Two rounded and polished pushers release the buckle.

The movement

The movement powering the Formex Element is the venerable ETA Valjoux 7750. It’s ubiquitous in terms of automatic chronographs – as legendary as the ETA 2824 is for standard automatics. Initially released in 1973; the fact that it’s still getting used today shows how influential and highly regarded this movement is: a serious workhorse. Just don’t change it during the hours of 22:00 – 04:00 as this can damage the date gearing.

It’s a tall beast at 7.9mm – that’s why all watches that house it tend to also have a fair amount of height. Other specs include a high beat rate of 28.8k bph, 25 jewels, and 44 hours power reserve.

My Lepsi Watch Scope is tracking this 7750 at an incredibly accurate -1.3 sec/day. That’s well within COSC specs and shows some impressive regulating.

Final comments

The Formex Element has shifted my perspective of many watches I own and review.

It’s that good.

When I see a microbrand that’s Chinese Made and housing a Miyota movement – for half this price, it’s hard not to think that if you double your money you can get a Swiss Made automatic chronograph of this calibre. Of course, £1,000 is a lot – no doubt about it – but it’s just such an incredible masterpiece it’s taken my breath away.

Negatives? Hmm. The exhibition caseback is way too dark – I want to see the 7750. The rehaut is misaligned by literally a fraction of a mm too which is a shame.

For me, their statements ring true. The Formex Element looks and behaves like a high-end timepiece, feels like one too, but realistically is at least half the price you’d expect to pay. Simply put, it’s blown me away. I love it.

The post Formex Element Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

Watches with the indisputable ETA 7750 movement don’t tend to be cheap. Doing a bit of research, the cheapest you’re likely to find one is for around the £700 mark – but then that’s for a watch that does nothing in the design or construction department.

To get a decent ETA 7750 watch, you’ve got to easily go above £1000 – but even then you’re looking at £1500 for the decent watches.

In steps Formex. Founded in 1999, they have just undergone a huge revamp of their business model and completely opted out of brick and mortar sales, going down the direct and online only route.

Completely Swiss Made and featuring their patented case suspension system, I was extremely intrigued by their offerings as they are indeed very affordable for what they offer.

The watch in for review is the AS1100. Costing £1078, for an ETA 7750 that’s a very competitive price. Going through the order process, I was extremely impressed that every watch sale includes the taxes and import duty, plus lightning fast delivery.

I will say this now: it’s very rare for me nowadays to be blown away by a watch from the moment I open the case. Let’s take a closer look to see if how it stacks up for the money.

The specs

• Dimensions: 46.5mm diameter x 14mm height x 53.5mm lug to lug
• Weight: 134g
• Movement: ETA 7750
• Accuracy (Lepsi Watch Scope: 2.0 s/d
• Water resistance: 100m / 10ATM
• Lug width: 22mm
• Special features: Carbon fibre dial, Grade 2 titanium and carbon fibre casing, patented case suspension system
• Price: £1078 w/ leather, £1195 w/ titanium / steel bracelet

The dial

The primary feature of the dial, and indeed throughout the watch, is the carbon fibre. Nothing says motorsport more than this material, plus it looks incredibly cool. The weave is thick and very apparent, providing a splendid viewing experience.

The subdials are laid out in the traditional ETA 7750 way – 12, 6 and 9. These are all on a lower level with a polished finish to them, which reflects the light well – but not in a glaring way.

The dial has a bold design, with huge hands which seem aviation inspired and oversized hour numerals.

The lume used has impressed me greatly: it is quick to charge and glows very bright.

The day / date indicator is located at 3, with the logo printed just above it. Some may prefer black wheels to match the dial, but for me the white increases legibility massively and they also match the bold white numerals.

The big seconds hand acts as the chronograph hand, but is two sided. The red base refers to the tachymeter markings on the rehaut, which explains why the markings are 180 degrees out.

The dial is well designed, as well as being superbly constructed with impressive precision.

The case

There’s no doubt that the case is very angular and bold. It has a complex and impressive construction, almost giving the impression of a Hublot on a budget with its top and bottom pieces with a separate barrel in-between. What is cool is the suspension system – not completely necessary but a very interesting innovation.

The sapphire crystal with it’s anti-reflecting is an absolute joy to look at, and for me makes the difference between this looking like a great watch and a superb watch. The AR coating is “hard-coated” so hopefully that means it won’t scratch off, which can happen.

The case top and bottom is made of Grade 2 titanium, which includes the lugs. There are PVD elements throughout which provides a good contrast between the light grey and black. These include a PVD bezel and suspension, plus screws either side of the lugs holding the strap in place. The bezel is raised above the crystal providing some protection to it.

There are carbon fibre sides of the main barrel, with a thin red strip at the top, just below the bezel. A cool touch that shows close attention to detail.

The pushers are coated but look a little plasticky. They also wobble a bit on their axis which I wasn’t expecting – view the video review to see this. It’s not a fault and they can move on purpose – it’s to be able to cope with the severest angles from the suspension system. Whilst it doesn’t bother me, it took me by surprise and is definitely something worth noting.

The crown is of a similar feel, which is unsigned but has a hexagon embossed on the end. It’s large enough to use easily to manually wind and set the watch.

The caseback is fairly straightforward, with the main component being the sapphire crystal exhibition window to show off the movement. There are details deeply engraved surrounding this.

The strap

The strap is leather, with what feels like a canvas style top to it. It’s black to match the racing theme and PVD elements of the case, with additional racing themed red stitching down the sides.

To be completely honest, there’s nothing too crazy to say about the strap. It’s comfortable, but a little stiff to begin with (possibly due to the extra layer of canvas on top) which promptly loosens up.

The strap has a PVD tang buckle that is square in shape, with a very rounded top bar. The finishing is matte and there are no engravings or markings.

A 46.5mm diameter case would usually demand a 24mm strap, but in this case the 22mm width does a good job and doesn’t look out of proportion.

The movement

Created in 1974, the ETA 7750 is widely regarded as the most successful automatic chronograph movement ever made.

Formex have applied custom printing of the logo on the rotor, to make it a little visually interesting.

Various key specifics include it having 25 jewels, it runs at 28.8k bph (8 ticks per second), 44 hours power reserve, hand and automatic winding, and hacking seconds.

Unlike many quartz chronographs you see which have an hour chronograph dial, the 7750 has a 30 minute counter dial (at 12) and then a 12 hour indicator (at 6) for the chronograph feature. This means that the hand will spin around the top dial twice per hour. The running second hand is located at 9.

These movements, whilst being very accurate and reliable, are quite delicate beasts. Just make sure you don’t change the time or date between 10 and 2.

I’ve tested the accuracy with my Lepsi Watch Scope – and it’s an excellent and very impressive 2.2 s/d, well within COSC specs.

Final comments

I’ve not been this impressed by a watch from the moment I opened the box for a long time. It doesn’t happen very often at all, and when it does, I feel delighted.

The quality of the Formex AS1100 is genuinely one of the best I’ve reviewed. The construction of the dial and case is excellent, especially when you think about the suspension system, titanium and carbon fibre involved. Especially gorgeous is the sapphire crystal and the remarkable anti-reflective coating that belongs on a watch worth 3 times the price.

There’s one small niggle that needs to be remembered, that of the slight wiggle in the pushers. This is purposeful in order to allow the suspension to flex fully. It doesn’t bother me, but it might be a turn off for some.

For just over £1000, I don’t think I’ve seen a nicer Swiss Made chronograph for the money. Ok, the Christopher Ward Trident 600 Chronograph gives it a good go, but it’s over £400 more which is a fair whack of dosh. I’ve fallen in love with the Formex AS1100 and if you go for one, you will to.

The post Formex AS1100 Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.