Watch Reviews tagged with quartz - 12&60 https://12and60.com/tag/quartz/ Watch Reviews & Blog Fri, 25 Aug 2023 09:08:24 +0000 en-US hourly 1 224535848 Discover the Laco Atacama Quarz UTC https://12and60.com/discover-the-laco-atacama-quarz-utc/ https://12and60.com/discover-the-laco-atacama-quarz-utc/#comments Fri, 25 Aug 2023 08:53:12 +0000 https://12and60.com/?p=41004 Laco, a renowned horological name, continues its legacy of excellence with the introduction of the Atacama Quarz UTC. This timepiece is a seamless blend of technical innovation and functional design,...

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Laco, a renowned horological name, continues its legacy of excellence with the introduction of the Atacama Quarz UTC. This timepiece is a seamless blend of technical innovation and functional design, capturing the hearts of both sports watch enthusiasts and adventurers. As the successor to the esteemed Atacama.2, the Atacama Quarz UTC builds on its foundation, offering a leaner, sturdier build, the accuracy of a quartz movement, and all at a more budget-friendly price. Notably, it incorporates a second time zone feature, a vital tool for individuals navigating across different time zones, especially for those in emergency response roles.

Drawing on the successful partnership with the German Armed Forces during the development of the Atacama.2, Laco has elevated its commitment to producing instruments of utmost reliability. Professionals across various fields, including law enforcement, fire departments, and the military, have attested to the dependability of the Atacama.2. Now, the Atacama Quarz UTC steps onto the scene, ready to deliver safety, resilience, and precision in even the most demanding scenarios.

The dial of the Atacama Quarz UTC comes to life with its luminescent elements. The Superluminova-coated hands, numerals, and indices ensure impeccable readability, whether under the blazing sun or the cover of night. The two-tone hands, with Superluminova C3 on the hour and second hands and striking orange on the minute hand, ensure optimal legibility from every angle, catering to the dynamic nature of its users’ lives.

One of the standout features of the Atacama Quarz UTC is its second time zone display. This enhancement is particularly useful for those individuals who need to juggle responsibilities across different parts of the world. The orange skeletonized arrowhead hand, accompanied by a corresponding 24-hour scale, serves as a constant reminder of time zones, making it an indispensable tool for globetrotters and professionals alike.

Diving into the details of the watch, the stainless-steel case of the Atacama Quarz UTC exhibits pressure resistance up to 20 ATM and is adorned with a black PVD coating, minimizing any unwanted reflections that might compromise visibility. The unidirectional rotating countdown bezel and the cleverly positioned crown at twelve o’clock embody Laco’s commitment to functional design. The crown, a critical component for water resistance, incorporates an orange ring as an indicator of its secure position, ensuring both safety and peace of mind.

Nestled within the robust case is the Swiss quartz movement Ronda 515.24H, a paragon of accuracy and efficiency. With minimal deviation per month and a GMT function for quick time zone adjustments, this movement guarantees impeccable precision. Adding to its utility, a white date window graces the dial at the six o’clock position, further enhancing legibility and functionality.

Despite the impressive technical features, Laco has managed to streamline the design. Thanks to the incorporation of the slim quartz movement, the case height measures a mere 10.5 millimeters. This innovation, coupled with a 46-millimeter diameter that offers a contact area of only 34 millimeters, ensures that the Atacama Quarz UTC fits comfortably even on narrower wrists. The durable yet comfortable rubber strap, secured by a PVD-coated stainless-steel buckle, remains unchanged. Additionally, the flexible lugs that connect the case to the strap adapt seamlessly to the wearer’s wrist, allowing for a snug fit.

Watch enthusiasts and aficionados can anticipate the Atacama Quarz UTC’s availability for presale through Laco’s official channels and authorised retailers starting from the end of August. The price point of €530 makes this timepiece an accessible yet exceptional choice. Delivery is scheduled to commence from mid-October, ushering in a new era of functional, precise, and purposeful horology.

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The Accurist Origin Men’s Chronograph – Accurist Get Back To Their Roots https://12and60.com/accurist-origin-mens-chronograph-review/ https://12and60.com/accurist-origin-mens-chronograph-review/#respond Wed, 25 Jan 2023 20:58:43 +0000 https://12and60.com/?p=40596 If you’re not from the UK, you’ve probably never heard of Accurist before. But the brand has been around since 1946 when it was founded by Asher and Rebecca Loftus...

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If you’re not from the UK, you’ve probably never heard of Accurist before. But the brand has been around since 1946 when it was founded by Asher and Rebecca Loftus in London. It soon became one of the many brands that produced well-made, affordable watches that were a staple of high-street stores, and Accurist watches became a well-known UK brand. When the Quartz Crisis hit in the 1970s, Accurist was one of the few brands to adapt to the rapid changes in the industry, and thanks to this it survived the turbulent period and continued to thrive.

It wasn’t until 2014 that the Loftus family sold the brand to Time Products Ltd., but despite the change in ownership the brand’s focus continued to be on affordable entry-level quartz watches. However, last year Accurist decided that it was time to have something of a refresh, and it underwent something of a rebranding exercise.

Accurist Origin Men's Chronograph

I have to be honest and say that I think it was an excellent decision. For the past few decades, Accurist has been basically just another fashion brand that offered generic-looking cheap quartz watches. However, with this revamp the brand has refocused on classic designs from its past, and made a real effort to offer attractive designs and excellent quality at its traditional entry-level price point. 

Accurist Origin Men's Chronograph

The Specifications

No model illustrates that better than this Origin Men’s Chronograph, which is Accurist’s take on a striking 1970s-inspired chronograph. On the face of things, this is just another basic entry-level quartz watch with some fairly standard specifications. The watch has 100m of water resistance, a sapphire crystal and a basic quartz movement. The exact movement is the Miyota JS25, a Japanese calibre with zero jewels, a 2-year battery life, and an accuracy of +/- 20 seconds per month. It’s an obvious entry-level choice, and whilst it’s nothing special, most of you will know that Miyota makes reliable movements. Unsurprisingly, the lume isn’t the best either, and it quickly fades after it’s charged. However, all this is completely fine for a watch that costs just £189, and there’s a lot in the design of this watch that makes it a great affordable pick. 

An Eye For Detail

Aesthetically, the watch is obviously very similar to the Zenith El Primero Revival, but Accurist claims that it’s based on one of their own models from the 1970s. I couldn’t find any similar vintage models online, but that doesn’t necessarily mean they don’t exist. Regardless, the Accurist’s similarity to the Zenith is not necessarily a bad thing in my opinion. The El Primero costs a whopping £7,100, which will be out of a lot of people’s price range. Costing under £200 the Accurist offers you a chance to get your hands on a watch with that El Primero styling at a much more affordable price. 

Without comparing the watch to the Zenith, the design of the Accurist is rather attractive. There’s a great mix of finishes and colours and the whole design feels very well put together. The brown and black of the minute track is nicely mirrored on the sub-dials and six and nine, whilst the silver sunburst of the main dial gives the watch a more dressy feel. 

The hands are simple sticks, but they’re well-cut and finished. In fact, the overall finishing of the watch is very good for the price point, and the only noticeable flaws are a couple of specs of dust on the dial. Unusually, the central seconds hand on the Origin Chronograph is the running seconds hand, and the chronograph seconds are tracked on the sub-dial at six o’clock. The other black sub-dial at nine tracks the elapsed minute. Meanwhile, the silver sub-dial at three indicates the 24-hour time. 

Accurist Origin Men's Chronograph

How The Watch Wears

The impressive finishing extends to the steel case. It’s a sizeable 41mm in diameter, but with a compact lug-to-lug of just 48mm, and a thickness of just 11.5mm, it wears very nicely on the wrist. The angular tonneau design of the case is probably the part of the Accurist that’s the closest to the Zenith. Given the price point the Accurist is at, the finishing is excellent. 

Accurist Origin Men's Chronograph

It might sound silly, but one of the most impressive aspects of the watch is the leather strap. At this price point, the strap is usually where a brand cuts corners, and leather straps often feel really cheap and nasty. That’s not the case here. Don’t get me wrong, the leather is obviously not as premium as you’ll see on more expensive watches, but it is very soft and flexible. The buckle is also nice and chunky, and the strap comes with quick-release spring bars so that it can be easily changed. 

Accurist Origin Men's Chronograph

Final Thoughts 

Accurist is a brand that for a long time has been dismissed by the watch community. And not without reason, as for a long time the brand has focussed on fairly generic quartz watches. But with this rebrand, it feels like Accurist has gotten back on track to offering excellent value and good designs. The Origin Chronograph is the perfect example of this, with a solid build quality for an entry-level watch. It’s also very refreshing to see such strong designs from Accurist. The Origin Chronograph might bear a strong resemblance to the Zenith, but they’re not competing in remotely the same segment. Judged on its own merits, the Origin Chronograph offers a nice funky vintage-inspired design for an excellent price.

You can read more about the Origin Chronograph on Accurist’s website here.

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The Iota GMT Collection – Minimalism Done Right https://12and60.com/iota-gmt-review/ https://12and60.com/iota-gmt-review/#comments Wed, 09 Nov 2022 14:31:33 +0000 https://12and60.com/?p=40388 It’s a tricky thing to design a minimalist watch. And that’s because the fewer elements there are in a design, the harder it is to make them interesting and original....

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It’s a tricky thing to design a minimalist watch. And that’s because the fewer elements there are in a design, the harder it is to make them interesting and original. In fact, it’s more likely that a minimalist design will look cheap and boring. But I think that the watches I’m looking at today manage to pull it off rather well. They’re the GMT collection from Iota, a microbrand that combines British design and Swiss manufacturing. 

There are four different models in the collection, each named after a different capital city. There’s the white-dialled London, the blue-dialled Sydney, and the New York, which has a white dial and gold-coloured steel case. There is also a fourth model which is an all-black special edition called the Hong Kong. 

Iota GMT

The Specifications

On paper, these GMTs have some pretty standard specifications, with a flat sapphire crystal that has an anti-reflective coating on each side, 50m of water resistance, and a quartz movement. I can already hear the disapproval from those who would prefer a mechanical movement to a quartz one, but the fact is that quartz is the more practical choice out of the two options. And, given that the Iota GMT is just £265, I think that a quartz movement is a perfectly fine choice for a watch at this price point. The movement in question is the Ronda 515.24H, a 1-jewel Swiss movement with a 45-month battery life and an accuracy of -10/+20 seconds per month. 

The Iota GMT’s Minimalist Design

The dial that sits above the quartz movement is an excellent example of how to design a minimalist watch. It’s simple and easy to read and has some nice design elements that separate it from poor-quality minimalist watches. The hour markers are simple batons, and on the London and New York models, these have polished surfaces that catch the light rather nicely. Meanwhile, on the Sydney, they are painted a light grey that contrasts with the rich blue dial. To break up the uniform ring of markers, the ones at twelve and six o’clock are shorter, and either black or white depending on the model. They also have an “O” at their tips that further helps to break up the dial, and together with a debossed line running down the centre of the dial, they create the illusion of two waypoints joined by a line. 

Around the hour markers is printed a simple 24-hour scale for use with the GMT hand. And, though it is pretty plain, there’s nothing wrong with that because it means that it’s easy to read and use. 

The last element to the dial is that the top half is printed with diagonal lines. These create a subtle shading effect across the dial that’s somewhat reminiscent of the bi-colour bezels seen on other GMT watches. It’s a subtle touch, but one that gives the Iota GMT a more distinctive look than it would otherwise have. 

Iota GMT

The hour, minute and seconds hands on the Iota GMT are clean and uncomplicated sticks, with polished surfaces. The hour and minute hands are also bevelled, and this helps to make the hands appear more sophisticated than they would if they were simply flat. However, it’s here that we come across the only two negative things I have to say about the dial. The first is that the hands could be better finished. Though they look fine when I glance down at any of the watches on my wrist, up close I can see that they have marks across the polished surfaces. The second negative is that seconds hands on all three samples also don’t hit square on the hour marks, but fortunately, as there is no minute track, this isn’t too noticeable. It’s a shame because these two points are the only flaws I can see on any of the watches, but at this price point, it’s hardly the end of the world. 

Meanwhile, the GMT hand is skeletonised and coloured to blend in with the dial, with the exception of the tip, which is either black or white so that it’s easy to pick out against the dial. By having only the tip contrasting with the dial, it prevents the GMT hand from cluttering up the face, whilst not impacting the usability of the GMT function. 

Individually each element might not seem like much but brought together they make for an attractive cohesive design.

Iota GMT

The Case & Wearability

In keeping with the simple dial, the case of the Iota GMT is equally straightforward. The finish varies between each model, with the Sydney’s case being almost entirely polished apart from the tops of the lugs. Meanwhile, the New York’s and London’s cases are almost entirely brushed, other than the sides of the bezel. It’s down to you which you prefer, but the finishing is pretty good and the case slopes inwards which stops it from being overly simple. 

The case measures 40mm across, with a 46mm lug length, and it’s just 8.5mm thick. With these dimensions, the Iota GMTs are very wearable, and they can easily slip under a shirt cuff. 

Iota GMT

I must admit that I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the leather straps the GMTs come on. They’re made from Italian Nappa leather and are noticeably nicer than the leather straps you usually see on watches of this price point. They’re very soft to the touch and are quite supple despite also being nice and thick too. As a finishing touch, they come with quick-release spring bars so that you can change them out with ease. 

Final Thoughts

Now, I know that we watch enthusiasts can often be quite dismissive of quartz watches. After all, more often than not they’re overpriced watches designed to appeal to the general consumer. However, with these GMTs Iota reminds us that we shouldn’t dismiss quartz watches outright. Because these watches show that with a bit of care and attention to detail, it’s possible for a brand to offer a well-designed and well-built quartz watch at a reasonable price. 

You can read more about the GMT collection on Iota’s website here.

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Povey Albion Watch Review https://12and60.com/povey-albion-watch-review/ https://12and60.com/povey-albion-watch-review/#respond Fri, 31 Jul 2020 12:43:27 +0000 https://12and60.com/?p=34784 Povey has its roots firmly planted in the UK’s capital, and that is where their story began. Founded in 2015, Povey draws inspiration from the past and use that to...

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Povey has its roots firmly planted in the UK’s capital, and that is where their story began. Founded in 2015, Povey draws inspiration from the past and use that to fuel their passion and drive to make timepieces that can be passed on to future generations. Not content on cutting corners, Povey travelled the globe to work with well-established watch manufacturers from the UK, France, Italy, Germany, Switzerland and Hong Kong in order to ensure that had the right ingredients to make their first creation.

That brings us nicely to their first watch – the Albion which is so named after the country in which Povey resides. If you aren’t familiar with the name Albion, that is because it’s old, ancient in fact. Traces of the name can be found back to 320BC and can often be seen in literature by classical writers such as Peter Ackroyd’s ‘Albion – The Origins of the English Imagination’.

SPECS

  • Diameter: 38mm
  • Thickness: 9.6mm
  • Lug width: 20mm
  • Lug-to-lug: 45mm
  • Case material: 316L Stainless Steel
  • Crystal: Box dome Sapphire coated Mineral
  • Dial: Sandblast White
  • Movement: ETA 902.002
  • Battery life: up to 10 Years
  • Water resistance: 50m
  • Weight: 48g
  • Strap: Light Havana by Sedgwick & Co
  • Warranty: 3 years
  • Price: £125
    • Use code watchitallabout for 20% off! Making it £100
  • Buy here: https://www.poveywatches.com/shop/the-albion-silver

Povey has taken a simple approach with the Albion opting to go with arguably the most basic of them all – a two-hander meaning there is no seconds hand, and admittedly, in this case, it works well. The handset is high polished fence post style that merges with the overall aesthetic very well, the indices, however, have a touch more flare. At the 12, 3, 6 and 9 you’ll find some well done faceted applied double indices with the rest being made up of a single design. All the indices are done in a high polish and look completed to a good standard. In-between the indices you’ll find a simple and unobtrusive printed minute track.

The dial is a simple affair too; as all you’ll find is some neatly printed branding, the dial also has some subtle texture to give it a bit of character, though not too much as to distract too heavily from the indices.

Mineral crystal that has a thin Sapphire outer coating. In theory, this should be the best of both worlds as you should get the scratch resistance of Sapphire and the impact resistance of mineral, but in reality, I’m not entirely sure it works that way. If it does, then it’s a perfect middle-ground and should be both highly scratch-resistant and less prone to shattering.

The box dome-style has another big draw too as causes some playful distortions of both the indices and hands. One thing I’m not so fond of though is the choice of anti-reflective coating. Povey has opted to use a generous amount of blue AR, and that isn’t bad as this crystal is highly reflective and it does help cut that however the blue is so prominent it does somewhat detract from the vintage esque design. In this case, clear AR would have been preferred.

For the case, Povey has again opted for the notion that simple is better and honestly it’s little underwhelming though does suit the overall aesthetic. The bezel is done in a high polish and is ever so slightly curved so that it hugs the domed crystal nicely leaving no visible gap. Like the bezel, the mid-case is polished though a touch slab-sided, luckily the mid-case is very slim so that it’s not too noticeable. Below the mid-case, the case heavily slopes down into the caseback creating a nice appearance. I wish they would have opted to curve the entire case as that would have been the icing on the cake for this vintage classic inspired design.

The caseback is completely flat and again high polished. It’s held in place with four screws which fits the design though does mean this watch only has 50m water resistance which to be honest is perfectly fine for a casual wear watch. Right in the centre of the caseback, you’ll note the embossed branding that sits in a lovely cleanly done portion of machining that adds a touch of interest. Surrounding that is the specs that have been well engraved and finish off the caseback, though not overly fancy, it’s well-executed.

In use, the Albion scores well as the watch is simple to use and is great to just grab and go. The crown is simple but effective as it has enough grip and isn’t too small to make it unusable. In action, the crown and stem mechanism turns very smoothly and feels very reassuring to use. It’s a simple single-stage push-pull crown which is perfect for this style of watch. There is no ghost date position and makes it that much easier to use whenever you need to adjust the time which is not that often thanks to the quartz movement.

Povey have opted to take a sensible route and go tried and tested sourcing a good quality ETA 902.002 quartz movement which features 4 synthetic jewels and has a theoretical battery life of up to 100 months (8 years) depending on the battery specifications and use. Poveys website lists a life span of 10 years which in theory could be achieved depending if the battery has been upgraded which is honestly unlikely so you’ll more than likely get closer to the 8 years stated on the ETA spec sheet. The accuracy of this particular ETA movement is stated between -10/+15 seconds per month which is pretty much standard.

Now we come to the reason why I felt this watch stood above the competition and that is the included Sedgwick & Co (https://www.poveywatches.com/british-leather) leather strap. Most of the time watches at around £125 come with a decent leather strap, but Povey has taken things up a notch and sought the expertise of a well-renowned leather tannery, Sedgwick & Co. Sedgwick & Co have been in the business for a very long time and are most known for their work creating Bridles for the equestrian industry as well as supplying very high-quality leather that in this case is used for the Albions strap. At present the Albion can be purchased with one of three leather straps – the one included with our Silver model is the Light Havana which is a beautiful rich brown. Starting with the inner portion of the strap, you’ll note the lovely soft tan leather inner that honestly feels great against your wrist and is one of the best inners I’ve ever encountered. It’s also stamped, donating both parties.

The outer layer, however, is not as impressive when compared to the inner, it feels too new and a touch plasticky, however, I have a feeling that this is the type of strap that will only get better with wear and age, so take this with a view that straps like this need to be worn and weather.

The stitching in the strap is very well done throughout and is tight, uniform and matches the strap perfectly.

The hardware is a mix of leather keepers -which are very well made and a different style of buckle. The buckle is Stainless though I’m not certain as to the grade. I do however really love the design as it has a few flourishes including the profile and branding that is done similarly to the caseback. The buckle is held in place using a spring bar and I have had no issue as it feels well secured in place.

The cherry on top of this whole experience is the inclusion of a leather care kit that comes with a pot of leather care solution and a cloth, definitely a nice bonus and will help keep the strap in good condition.

We’ve established that the strap is good, but does that lend itself to a comfortable wear? Well, sort of. For my case use, I found it to be reasonably comfortable for daily wear though it’s certainly not the most comfortable I’ve ever experienced. This is down to the strap and like mentioned it’s age, given more time the leather will likely soften while becoming more pliable and less rigid, because as is, it’s a little too so, then again it is fairly new. The watch design does help with this thanks to the slim profile, its low weight and the lug design. The lugs flow down very nicely and do help the strap flow around the wrist in a nice fashion. Thanks to its small diameter and short lug-to-lug the Albion is well suited to those of us with slim wrists. For reference, I have 6” inch wrist and this just fits on the strap, though if you were to swap out the strap it would comfortably fit if you have a 5.5” inch wrist.

To sum up, the Albion from Povey has been pleasantly surprising though unfortunately doesn’t do much to excite the inner watch-nerd. As is, the Albion is well specced compared to similarly priced rivals, nicely executed throughout with minimal issues, is solidly put together, attractive and great for daily use, plus the added extras further bolster this, but I’m just left not feeling much at all. Like mentioned it’s good – in fact a very good watch for the price point, yet I just am left with no strong positive or negative feeling, it just fails to resonate and stir up any emotion.

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Bulova Lunar Pilot Moonwatch Watch Review https://12and60.com/bulova-lunar-pilot-moonwatch-watch-review/ https://12and60.com/bulova-lunar-pilot-moonwatch-watch-review/#comments Sat, 23 May 2020 06:59:11 +0000 https://12and60.com/?p=34154 The Bulova Lunar Pilot is oft referred to as “the other moon watch”. Why? It is a commemoration towards one of only two watches to ever be strapped to the...

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The Bulova Lunar Pilot is oft referred to as “the other moon watch”. Why?

It is a commemoration towards one of only two watches to ever be strapped to the men who stepped foot on the moon – and the Omega Speedmaster always gets the most recognition.

The Lunar Pilot is a striking watch, with a beautifully timeless vintage look. Bulova has also fitted it with their high-performance quartz technology for unparalleled accuracy to seconds per year.

The inspiration is from the Bulova chronograph worn by Apollo 15’s mission commander in 1971, and it’s no surprise that it also bears a resemblance to the first watch on the moon. It is an “official” commemorative edition to that original chronograph; with details of the flight to the moon on the caseback.

But does it meet the £499 RRP? Is it a worthy alternative to the Omega Speedy? Let’s check it out.

The specs

  • Dimensions: 45mm diameter x 14mm height x 52.5mm lug to lug
  • Weight: 169g
  • Water resistance rating: 5ATM / 50m
  • Movement: Bulova proprietary 262 kHz Calibre “high-performance quartz”; Calibre 8136
  • Accuracy: 10 seconds per year
  • Lug width: 20mm
  • Warranty: 3 years
  • Price: RRP £499, available around £375
  • Buy here: https://amzn.to/3dOHLb8
  • Bulova site: https://uk.bulova.com/96b258.html

The video review

The case

First things first, it’s certainly larger than I imagined – I don’t usually go for watches over 44mm and the Bulova Lunar Pilot measures in at 45mm. I’d certainly say if you have a wrist that’s smaller than 7”, you’d struggle to pull this off. Saying that, the 14mm height feels surprisingly snug when taken into consideration, and wearability isn’t as tough as I thought it would be thanks to the sudden dip of the lugs. The shape oozes vintage, and takes heavy recognition from the original watch; a tonneau style shape being the main reason behind this.

You’ll notice that all three regular types of finishing are present on the Lunar Pilot. The case main is primarily a rugged tool-like bead blasted finish. However, the bezel is brushed, and the pushers are crown are polished – a lovely array which keeps things interesting. The quality of the finish is neat and precise all over.

The raised flat sapphire crystal offers a beautiful clear view of the dial below. Whilst sapphire is highly scratch-resistant, it can tend to chip if hit hard enough. So whilst it looks great to have the edge exposed like it is, be careful.

I feel as if the long, slender pushers are a defining yet unusual component of the Bulova Lunar Pilot. Indeed, I didn’t appreciate the shape of them until I held the watch in my hand. There are cute screws located at the pivoted corner below on the caseback. The length of them means they’re extremely easy to use. The push-pull crown is on the large side, but the fact that it’s set deep into the case means it doesn’t stick out overly, nor does it feel out of place. The grip is suitable, with a deep-stamped Bulova logo on the end.

The caseback is a mini-history lesson for us all, thanks to the commemoration of the Apollo 15 mission. In the centre we have some key details: firstly, the dates and length of the mission (July 26th – August 17th 1971). Then, the date of the EVA3 spacewalk (Extra-Vehicular Activity), when they made the landing on the moon – August 2nd 1971. Finally, it informs us of the Hadley Rille gorge – this is on the moon adjacent to the landing spot, and the Apennines is the region on the moon. The detailing throughout the caseback is very well thought out and is very pleasing to look at.

The dial

The clean, classic and uncomplicated dial design makes it timeless; it’s simple and easy to read. The black with white marking means it’ll go with anything, in any situation.

It’s multi-layered; the raised tachymeter is at the highest point, to a lower minute track, then raised back to the main dial, with subdials lowered. The date window is rather deep. There’s also plenty of subtle detailing, with concentric circular patterns on the subdials and the lowered minute track.

The tachymeter provides a detailed framework to the dial, which is subtly designed yet functional.

The subdials are as follows: running seconds at 6, chronograph 10th of a second indicator at 3, and 60-minute chronograph at 9. The big seconds hand is the chrono seconds.

I love seeing thick, deep applied hours markers – to me they display high build quality – and I’m pleased to see this is the case with the Lunar Pilot. They’re all straightforward batons, with a square at 12. I like the touch of the parallel batons (almost as if they’ve been rotated at 90 degrees) at 3, 6 and 9. The date wheel matches the dial colour, but seems to be rather low.

The hands are very simple, the hour and minute in a pencil shape, with a shapely arrow at the tip of the chrono seconds. The subdial hands are all straight batons

The lume is rather lightweight; fairly average and nothing to write home about. It’s a turquoise colour which doesn’t particularly glow very well.

The bracelet

Now, this is a key thing you should be aware of when shopping for a Bulova Lunar Pilot: the bracelet version and the strap versions have the lug holes in different positions. That means that you can’t fit the bracelet on the strap version, but you can fit a strap on the bracelet version. This seems an incredibly weird thing for Bulova to do, but it’s a no-brainer for me; I’m always going to go for the bracelet version.

Another thing that may annoy you is how the finishing doesn’t match. The bracelet is vertically brushed, yet the case is the blasted finish mentioned previously. Personally, it’s not a deal-breaker for me – but it could be for some.

Finally, it’s worth mentioning that there is no micro-adjustment due to the concealed butterfly clasp. However, the links are half-link size so you can get a pretty close fit.

Whilst this might seem like a log of negatives, the bracelet as a whole is sensational build quality. Thick links, very comfortable, and immaculate finishing.

The hidden butterfly clasp features the Bulova logo on one side and is easy to use and reassuringly secure.

The movement

The movement is known as Bulova’s “high-performance quartz” which vibrates at an ultra-high frequency of 262 kHz – making it insanely accurate to 10 seconds per year. They don’t share too much info on it (probably because it contains propriety technology), but it’s made in Japan, has no jewels, and is named the Bulova Calibre 8136.

262 kHz equates to 16 ticks per second but sadly you only get to see that smooth sweep on the chronograph seconds hand. I really would have loved to see that sweep on the running seconds hand (such as it does on Bulova’s Precisionist line), which appears to run at 2 ticks per second. It has a 4-year battery life if you use the chronograph for 1 hour per day.

This is one of the key selling points of the watch; and if you were going to go for affordable quartz, this is the one (notice I say affordable, as the Grand Seiko would be the best quartz to go for).

Final comments

I’m going to just say it how it is – there are a few pitfalls to this watch. There’s the exposed crystal edge; and the sheer size of the watch. That’s not to mention the bracelet: different finishing between it and the case, as well as strange lug hole positioning just seems to be a very weird thing to do.

Yet, despite these things, it’s still a wonderful timepiece – that I adore. The design is timeless, charming and elegant. The vintage vibes come through (you can tell it’s inspired by a 70’s watch), but it still looks modern. The movement itself is another reason why this is superior to alternatives with the same specs, in the same price range. And finally, the build quality is top-notch from top to bottom; it truly is a watch that delivers.

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Nordgreen Pioneer Watch Review https://12and60.com/nordgreen-pioneer-watch-review/ https://12and60.com/nordgreen-pioneer-watch-review/#comments Fri, 28 Feb 2020 21:48:00 +0000 https://12and60.com/?p=33258 Ah, the Scandinavians. They certainly know how to do “minimal”. Nordgreen, based in Copenhagen Denmark, epitomises that fact. A beautiful stark chronograph, the Pioneer is not just like any other...

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Ah, the Scandinavians. They certainly know how to do “minimal”. Nordgreen, based in Copenhagen Denmark, epitomises that fact. A beautiful stark chronograph, the Pioneer is not just like any other minimalist watch, it’s got more to it than just another Daniel Wellington lookalike. Solid build quality and beautiful flowing lines all over make this a great option for anyone looking for a clean, crisp, affordable watch.

Let’s check it out.

The specs

The video review

The case

The case is available in rose gold, steel or gunmetal. The size is probably on the large side for many – not necessarily because of the 42mm diameter, but the height of 12.4mm seems quite tall for a quartz chrono. Some of that height is due to the highly domed sapphire crystal, so visually it doesn’t look as tall as it is.

The shape and finishing are splendid. The curvaceous, bulbous flow between the rounded case and crystal showcases solid construction. It’s fully brushed too, so it should hold up to scratches better than if it was polished.

The crown and pushers are also easy to use, thanks to suitable sizing. The crown has the logo engraved on the end and gentle grip.

The lugs imitate a more classic / traditional wire lug, but in actual fact they’re normal. Nice and slender, they don’t detract from the dial.

The polished steel caseback is simple; nay, a bit boring. All detailing is lightly etched in.

The dial

As well as the 3 case options, the dial is also available in white, black or blue – so you have quite a plethora of colourways to choose from.

This is what the Scandinavians do best: simple, stark, minimalist design. The Nordgreen Pioneer is the perfect example. I love the massive subdials.

Also really like the genteel bevels to everything: the rehaut, the subdials, the date window. It’s all so smooth and modern.

The hands are fairly straightforward in terms of design (isn’t everything on this watch?), and the omission of a counterweight is also very modern in style. The finish to the hands is quite silvery, which offsets nicely against the white dial.

The hour markers within the rehaut are unusual and eye-catching too. Sadly, nothing is lumed on this watch though, which is a surprise.

The legibility is pretty great, despite the contrast between the hands and dial not being as drastic as it could. Printwork is clear and delicate.

The strap(s)

There’s quite a selection available (15 in total for this model), but I opted to check out the brown leather and the black rubber.

The brown leather strap is a deep, oaky brown which offsets the gunmetal grey well. The quality is impressive for the price – it’s malleable and very smooth.

The rubber strap is seriously delicious to wear. Some can be harsh, stiff, and uncomfortable – but this is the complete opposite. Beautifully soft and supple, it’s supremely comfortable and easy on the wrist. The Nordgreen logo is also imprinted into the top, which is a cool feature.

They both don the same tang buckle, in a polished gunmetal grey to match the colour of the case, with the Nordgreen logo lightly but accurately engraved on the top bar.

The movement

Rather unambiguously labelled “Japanese quartz”, the movement could be several options.

As the configuration is a 60-minute chrono counter on left, running seconds on right, and big chrono running seconds, it’s likely the Miyota 6S21.

Specs include 3 year battery life, 4 beats per second chrono second hand, and ±20 sec per month accuracy. It should prove to be pretty sturdy and reliable.

Final comments

Nordgreen has done a great job in creating a beautifully simple, minimal chronograph. Build quality is great – it’s solid, and packs a real punch for the price. It’s difficult to do effective simple design, but the Nordgreen guys are certainly pretty great at it.

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Mileneal Prestige Ocean Blue (Quartz) Watch Review https://12and60.com/mileneal-prestige-ocean-blue-quartz-watch-review/ https://12and60.com/mileneal-prestige-ocean-blue-quartz-watch-review/#comments Fri, 02 Aug 2019 20:35:52 +0000 https://12and60.com/?p=31205 I don’t come across great watches for under $100 too often anymore… it seems those days are long gone. However, ocassionally you get pleasantly surprised by a cheap watch that...

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I don’t come across great watches for under $100 too often anymore… it seems those days are long gone. However, ocassionally you get pleasantly surprised by a cheap watch that you weren’t expecting too much from – such as this Miléneal Prestige. The sunray blue dial is beautiful and it’s a great all-round vintage inspired dress watch for not a lot of money. Plus, the milanese strap is only $20 which I feel is bonkers. Watch the review to learn more!

The specs

The video review

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Tordney Mono Navy Watch Review https://12and60.com/tordney-mono-navy-watch-review/ https://12and60.com/tordney-mono-navy-watch-review/#respond Sun, 07 Jul 2019 21:50:18 +0000 https://12and60.com/?p=30929 I must admit, I see many watches that are so similar in appearance within the minimalist dress watch segment around the $200 mark, it’s difficult to make a choice; as...

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I must admit, I see many watches that are so similar in appearance within the minimalist dress watch segment around the $200 mark, it’s difficult to make a choice; as most of the time, the differences are minimal.

Tordney is a brand aiming to make a name for themselves and get your hard-earned cash. Their name derives from (Tor)onto and Sy(dney), the two cities the founders hail from. Around this price point, it tends to be a game of fine margins (the small examples of attention to detail make the difference) – I must admit, I was expecting this to be rather uninspiring, let’s see how the Tordney Mono stacks up.

The specs

The video review

The case

I was fully expecting a very simple barrel type case with no character; expectations are rightfully rather low on any watch costing less than $200. However, I am pleasantly surprised by the quality of the case on the Tordney. In particular, I really like the rounded / bulbous edging rather than a straight edge. It provides a variety of reflections and just increases the overall appearance of the watch in general.

The general finishing is much better than expected too – the case is polished in its entirety and is mirror-like in appearance. The 41mm size is a sweet spot too, and the very thin bezel means that it’s pretty much entirely dial.

The casebook is fairly standard, just being a polished disc with the logo in the centre and details surrounding it. They are all very lightly engraved.

The crown is another thing that is nicely thought out and a little bit different from what I was expecting. The logo is deeply embossed on the end, which fits well. The grip doesn’t extend for the whole depth of the crown, leaving a thinner gap at the base. This is really handy for setting and unsetting as you can get your nails in to pull it out.

The watch has a single-domed sapphire crystal with a very impressive anti-reflective coating on the underside. Not only does it keep the majority of reflection at bay; it also provides eye-catching blue reflections at certain angles.

The dial

There’s not a lot to go on with the dial, due to its simplicity and cleanness. Of course, that’s a good thing for a classy dress watch.

The base of the dial is a matte white, keeping reflections to a minimum. At certain angles, it looks a little bit champagne-like in colour, which is rather distinguished.

The running seconds subdial within the bottom half of the dial is set within the main plate, at a lower level. It also has a concentric circular pattern providing a slice of depth and texture to the dial.

The main hour and minute hands are sword shape and pitched, whilst the second hand is more of a leaf. These shapes are a good choice, providing a refined appearance. You can tell they are all painted as they have a shiny lacquered look to them. Usually, this isn’t a problem, but sometimes when the light hits them you can see, and they can look a little on the cheap side.

The applied hour markers are either a baton or very narrow triangle (triangles are at 12, 3, 6, and 9). They have decent depth to them signifying quality.

Printwork is kept to a minimum: the logo in the top half, a crisp minute track around the outer edge and second track around the seconds subdial. It’s all very clean and precise.

The strap

Another aspect where you’d expect corners to be cut is the leather strap. On any watch under $200, they’re not always the best.

The polished tang buckle is plain and simple as one would expect, with the Tordney text logo lightly engraved on.

The leather strap itself, however, is lovely. I selected the blue colour option as it goes really well with the blue accents on the dial – plus it looks killer with a blue suit. It’s also a pleasant alternative, as black or brown straps can be a bit boring sometimes.

The texture of the strap is beautifully soft, it’s also thick and supple. The lighter blue stitching works well with the entirety of the watch, and the light alligator pattern stamp is just subtle enough to make it interesting. The dull finish is much nicer than a shiny patent too, keeping it classy and elegant.

The movement

The movement used is the Miyota 1L45. As far as movements go, it’s not particularly exciting – because at the end of the day it’s a reasonably cheap quartz. It has a 3-year battery life, an accuracy of ±20 sec per month, and the primary reason behind it being selected for the Tordney is for the subdial running seconds hand.

Final comments

As I mentioned in the intro, I wasn’t expecting too much from this watch. Sure, it looks clean and crisp, but I was thinking that there was going to perhaps be a few flaws, poor quality components or just no attention to detail.

However, I’ve been pleasantly impressed by the Tordney Mono. It’s definitely worth your consideration at the offer price of $139; however, at the RRP of $199, there are better mechanical alternatives out there.

The things I liked were the leather strap, the unexpected rounded case shape, the cute and easy to use crown, and finally the quality of the dial. It’s got a lot going for it, and I think in this game of fine margins Tordney have done enough to make the Mono a neat option.

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D1 Milano Ultra Thin (Gun Metal) Watch Review https://12and60.com/d1-milano-ultra-thin-gun-metal-watch-review/ https://12and60.com/d1-milano-ultra-thin-gun-metal-watch-review/#respond Fri, 16 Mar 2018 22:34:25 +0000 https://12and60.com/?p=8590 When you first set your sights on the D1 Milano Ultra Thin, you are more than likely able to see a nod to a number of Gérald Genta watches (a...

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When you first set your sights on the D1 Milano Ultra Thin, you are more than likely able to see a nod to a number of Gérald Genta watches (a legendary watch designer) – such as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, IWC Ingenieur, and the Patek Philippe Nautilus.

I’ve been on the lookout for a while for an affordable alternative to those style of watches, so my eyes lit up when I first saw what D1 Milano had to offer. Let’s take a closer look to see how it stacks up at the price of €365 / ~£320.

The specs

The case

The case is a key part of why this watch looks so much like more luxurious timepieces. It is a delightful mix up of brushed and polished accents, chamfered edges, and angular lines. When I first opened the box, I got one of “those” moments – wow was I impressed with what I saw.

The finishing and machining is very good – the case is super slick thanks to the slender 6.6mm height of the case, which means it fits so easily under cuffs and jumpers etc. It also flows seamlessly into the bracelet from the sides. There’s so many angles – when you are looking at the watch in day-to-day life there’s a wide variety of reflections going on, it’s really interesting to look at.

On to the biggest negative of the watch – the fact that it comes fitted with a mineral crystal. It’s such a shame it’s not sapphire; but when you consider it from a visual perspective it’s a beauty – stunningly clear with an exquisite anti-reflective coating. That being said, I know this will be the end of the road for many of you. Such a shame, especially on a watch costing this much.

The small, unassuming push-pull crown has a black crystal fitted into the end. It’s easy to use, and hexagon shaped to match the rest of the case.

The octagon caseback is very simple – secured by 8 screws, vertically brushed, with some minor details engraved at the top and bottom.

The dial

When you look at the dial as a whole, it’s simple really, but remarkably splendid.

A key aspect of the appeal of the dial is the fact that it has a glossy base which catches the light well. Whilst this is tricky to show in photos, take a watch of my video review and you’ll see what I mean.

The hour markers are applied batons, which are polished gun metal to match the case. They’re all flawlessly manufactured and applied.

The hands are dauphine shape and gently pitched. Again, they have a cool gun metal finish – this does result in legibility being effected (it’s not the best having gun metal on black), but boy does it look good.

The printwork is minimal, but crisp and clean. It just consists of “D1 Milano” in the top half and Ultra Thin in the bottom, keeping the entire dial minimal.

The bracelet

The two main things to note regarding the bracelet are firstly, the fact that it is built into the lugs in a very specific way (so no standard leather straps are going to fit), and secondly how it tapers a surprising amount to 16mm wide at the buckle. Normally I prefer the wider strap / bracelet, but there’s something about this one that really catches my eye.

Each and every link is closely and precisely thought out; providing a splendidly smooth sweeping form from the case to the buckle. They also all have the same matching brushed gun metal finish to them as the case, which looks fantastic. The links are all rather angular too, which catches the light really well as you roll the wrist.

The butterfly clasp has the logo deeply and accurately engraved on the top bar, which slightly folds over the other side of the clasp creating a single top block. It secures just by pushing shut – which doesn’t sound the securest but it’s very tight when closed and I’ve not had any issues of it opening unexpectedly.

The movement

There’s no mention of what the movement is. D1 Milano just mention the fact that it has a 2 year battery life. If I was to hazard a guess, I’d say it’s most likely to be a Miyota quartz, in particular one of their slim line ranges.

Final comments

It’s such a shame the D1 Milano only has a mineral crystal, especially considering the fantastic anti-reflective coating it has, and the price too.

It’s not very often nowadays that I’m genuinely wowed when I open the box, and this was the case with the D1 Milano. It really does look like it’s worth much more than it is, and at the end of the day, that’s pretty important when looking at the “affordable” range of watches.

The case and bracelet are simply delightful – there’s so many angles and facets which catch the light just right – and it is a lovely sight to behold. If you can overlook the face that it has a mineral crystal, then this will be an excellent choice.

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Brathwait Minimalist Luminous Watch Review https://12and60.com/brathwait-minimalist-luminous-watch-review/ https://12and60.com/brathwait-minimalist-luminous-watch-review/#respond Mon, 11 Dec 2017 21:00:41 +0000 https://12and60.com/?p=8148 GET 15% OFF ALL BRATHWAIT ORDERS BY CLICKING HERE AND USING CODE JCF15! I’m no stranger to Brathwait. I was one of the first ever to release a review of their first...

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GET 15% OFF ALL BRATHWAIT ORDERS BY CLICKING HERE AND USING CODE JCF15!

I’m no stranger to Brathwait. I was one of the first ever to release a review of their first model, the Classic Slim. Since then, I’ve had the pleasure of reviewing the Minimalist Automatic, the Swiss Automatic, and the Swiss Classic. Ok, the names aren’t that exciting, and this model is just a tad more so – named the “Minimalist Luminous”. I’ve always found their watches to be great quality and aggressively priced, especially the gold Swiss Classic.

Let’s checkout the Brathwait Minimalist Luminous to see if it lives up to it’s brothers and sisters.

The specs

The case

The case of the Brathwait Minimalist Luminous is fully polished, with a slightly angular barrel shape. the 40mm diameter is decent, but the 12mm height is quite a surprise for a quartz movement – ideally it would be a tad thinner.

The lugs stick straight out a 45 degree angle; with a simple elegance to them.

The caseback is secured in place with 6 screws, which is also fully polished. It has Brathwait in the centre surrounded by various specifics which are laser etched.

Sitting on top of the case is a single domed sapphire crystal. As it’s only domed on top, you do get distortion at tight angles. It has a fairly decent anti-reflective coating, but the heavily domed nature of it still provides reflections.

The push-pull crown has decent grip and the Brathwait logo accurately but lightly engraved on the end. It’s rather small, and fits into scale with the case.

The dial

The dial is a sandwich dial – where the hour markers and numerals are cut out of the top level, revealing a lumed layer below. This is a nice surprise which I didn’t initially expect.

Personally I think they could do with the cut outs being thicker as they are a bit on the thin side which effects legibility. However, these cut outs are exceptionally neat and

As well as being sandwich, it’s also a domed dial – a sloped downward edging created an interesting visual impression.

A small seconds hand subdial resides at a lower level in the bottom half of the dial, with a lovely crisp cut out. The hand is black so a little hard to see.

The main hour and minute hands have thick black borders which reduces the size visually, also effecting legibility. The hands are long, elegant, pointed sword shaped arrows.

The printing is kept to a minimal on the dial which is fresh – the logo is located within the top half and there’s just the small seconds track around the small running seconds subdial.

This watch is named the “Minimalist Luminous” – so how’s the lume? It’s average and what you’d expect for a watch of this price to be honest. It’s just a shame they didn’t really go for it.

The strap

The strap comes loaded with quick release pins, which I always like to see – in my opinion every strap should come with them.

The leather has a very nice texture to it – super soft and supple, and feels great quality on the wrist. It has a matching black stitching.

The strap is loaded with a standard, but well constructed butterfly clasp, which is fully polished to match the case. It has the Brathwait logo deeply and accurately engraved on the top bar. I usually find it tends to get a bit uncomfortable after a long day’s wear, but that might just be me as I find that with all butterfly clasps.

The movement

The movement powering the Brathwait is the Ronda 1004. It’s Swiss Made and boasts 10 jewels. It’s gold plated and has a 25 month battery life. It’s not an exciting movement, but it’s dependable and well made. It’ll be a long-lasting and trustworthy movement.

Final comments

As is usually the case, I find the quality of this Brathwait to be solid in terms of fit and finish. There’s a couple of things I’d like to change – the cut outs should be a little thicker, and the hands should be a bit more legible (not using a black seconds hand, and not as thick borders on the hours and minute hands).

Whilst these would be nice-to-have improvements, the dial is still a lovely part of the watch – well designed, with an uncommon domed / sandwich crossover.

With code JCF15, it makes it under £190 which is a very tempting proposition.

GET 15% OFF ALL BRATHWAIT ORDERS BY CLICKING HERE AND USING CODE JCF15!

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Christopher Ward C7 Rapide Chronograph Quartz Watch Review https://12and60.com/christopher-ward-c7-rapide-chronograph-quartz-watch-review/ https://12and60.com/christopher-ward-c7-rapide-chronograph-quartz-watch-review/#respond Tue, 21 Nov 2017 22:42:13 +0000 https://12and60.com/?p=8045 Christopher Ward have done quite the refresh of their motorsport collection – the C7 Rapide range is redesigned, and completely rebuilt. A new four-piece case and improved dial are the...

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Christopher Ward have done quite the refresh of their motorsport collection – the C7 Rapide range is redesigned, and completely rebuilt.

A new four-piece case and improved dial are the first things you notice. The question is, does it justify the price hike? Let’s find out.

The specs

The case

As previously mentioned, the C7 Rapide boasts their new four-piece case: made up of a polished bezel with insert, the central collar that sits within the base including the lugs, and finally the caseback.

It has a wonderful array of alternating finishes that works together with the flowing, graceful lines; establishing this case as a piece of art. It’s truly an excellent example of impressive machining. Considering it’s made of multiple parts, the tolerances are perfect.

The black aluminium bezel insert has printed numerals in 5 minute increments. It’s simple, and doesn’t take too much away from the dial; just frame it neatly.

The very sporty crown works really well with the case. It has good thread, decent knurled grip and the twin flags emblem very neatly engraved on the end.

The pump grip style pushers are large and easy to use, and feel good when depressing them. They have a polished sides and brushed top which yields a pleasant reflection.

The flat sapphire crystal has a good anti-reflective coating; nice and clear.

The caseback is relatively straightforward, with the main focus being a large raised twin flag on top of a lower pattern of the same motif. Various specifics surround the outer edge, and directly around the centre is the only occurrence of Christopher Ward’s full name on the entire watch.

The dial

The dial is striking with a racing green base and what looks like two eyes staring back at you. The subdials are the main focus, and the fact that they’re not quite in the centre and slightly higher up than expected makes it even more interesting.

The green base has a gentle roughness to it to provide visual texture; the printed parts are all neat still despite this base.

The subdials are beautifully constructed, with an inner concentric circular pattern and a metallic bevelled border with markings printed on. The hands are points with red and white painted tips.

The applied elements are all delightfully fabricated. An oversized and bold 12 at the top generates a focus at the apex of the dial; the remaining hour markers flanking it with aplomb. They all have a lumed centre and polished edges; a slight triangular shape, with a top and bottom that angles inwards.

The date window is situated at 6, which I always like to see. The date wheel is black, and whilst a matching green would be preferred, it suits rather well. The cut out is neat.

The very outside edge mustn’t be overlooked either; it has a minute track at a lower level with a brushed finish surrounded by an angled green tachymeter acting as a mini rehaut.

The bracelet

The bracelet is completely brushed; even the sides which are usually polished. All the links are silky smooth. The pins are super tight and for the first time I’ve not been able to resize the bracelet – I’ve given up as my pin removal tool kept on getting stuck.

The bracelet is 22mm wide at the lugs, reducing 4mm rather than the usual 2mm – so buckle is 18mm wide. It’s quite a dramatic decline in width, more than expected.

The buckle is simple in design: a brushed top block with the CW twin flags logo deeply engraved, with polished buttons either side to release. The Christopher Ward logo is neatly engraved on the inner bar.

The movement

The movement powering the Christopher Ward C7 Rapide Quartz Chronograph is the Ronda 5021.D. It has the 30 minute chronograph sundial at 10, and the running seconds at 2. The big seconds hand is chronograph seconds, and has a date at 6.

Features include 10 jewels, gold plating, 54 month battery life and split chronograph function. It’s a Swiss Made quartz, so realistically nothing’s likely to go wrong with it. And if it does, you have a 5 year warranty with Christopher Ward.

Final comments

Yes £560 is a lot, and there’s not denying Christopher Ward’s prices have gone up. But I can wholeheartedly say that the quality in this range has escalated to match and warrant it.

The four-piece case of the Christopher Ward C7 Rapide Chronograph is a delight; with impeccable machining and excellent finishing. The dial is also intricate and precisely crafted. Design-wise, it’s striking, too.

It’s genuinely a wonderful watch, and if you decide to go for one (firstly take it to a jewellers to resize the bracelet), you’ll be really pleased with your choice.

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Fears Redcliff Watch Review https://12and60.com/fears-redcliff-watch-review/ https://12and60.com/fears-redcliff-watch-review/#respond Mon, 22 May 2017 11:54:16 +0000 https://12and60.com/?p=7067 Fears Watches were established in Bristol in 1846 by Edwin Fear, but sadly ceased trading in the 50’s. SalonQP 2016 saw this brand relaunched by his great-great-great-grandson Nicholas Bowman-Scargill. It...

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Fears Watches were established in Bristol in 1846 by Edwin Fear, but sadly ceased trading in the 50’s. SalonQP 2016 saw this brand relaunched by his great-great-great-grandson Nicholas Bowman-Scargill. It created quite a stir, no doubt because if the heritage of the original watch company; but also because it’s an actual relative of Edwin Fear who has done so – a true descendant to restart it.

Their first release is the Redcliff – available in two dial colours: blue and white. This model is the white “Jetliner” version and I, for one, really like the design and vintage / retro feel. The question is this: is £650 just too much for a quartz watch, even if it is Swiss Made? Let’s find out.

The specs

The case

The case of the Fears Redcliff is a simple barrel shape; fully polished to a high degree. I personally feel it’s extremely wearable at size it is with a 38mm diameter and slender 8mm height.

It has a pleasant shape which contours to the wrist well, thanks to the shapely lugs.

The push-pull crown is simple, easy to use with good grip. It has FWC laser etched on, however I believe this should be engraved ideally to signify a higher quality finish.

The push-on caseback is a simple affair but has an attractive design to it. Again, like the crown, all markings are laser etched. This is a shame as decent deep engravings can create quite the impression – which a watch costing £650 should do.

The sapphire crystal sitting on the top provides excellent clarity to the crisp dial.

The dial

The dial is vintage inspired, obviously influenced from an original Fears watch – namely the logo and hands / brand identity. I personally really like the design – it’s smart and classy, but has the ability to be casual and fit in with the cool kids as well. It’s a very flat dial – there are no applied elements at all, everything is painted / printed directly on.

An original Fears watch dated 1946

The shape of the hour markers is one that used from the brand identity, and I really like how it’s used so effectively throughout.

A larger version of this shape also contains the date window – which is a straight cut exposing the white wheel to match the dial.

The hands also utilise this shape: they’re basically an elongated version with a thin point at the tip. They’re similar to syringe type hands, but a little more curvaceous. The second hand is a simple stick.

The dial base has a lovely lacquered gloss finish, which shimmers nicely in the light and catches the eye.

The printing on the dial is effective and interesting. I particularly like the old fashioned statement of an “electronic oscillator” with a lightning bolt – very vintage.

The lume used is regular super-luminova, which is contained within the hands and hour markers. It charges and glows to a fairly standard degree – nothin outstanding but it performs as expected.

The strap

The strap is made of goat’s leather, of which I’ve not had experience with before. It provides a welcome subtle blue colour and has an interesting bobbly grain which I much prefer to alligator stamp.

It smells lovely and is obviously very good quality from the moment you strap it on: it’s beautifully soft and supple which provides excellent wear experience.

It also features quick release pins, which I’m always happy to see – these little beauties should feature on every strap out there. They make changing straps super quick, easy, and minimise any damage to the lugs.

The buckle is small and unassuming, and is polished to match the case. It has “FWC Ltd” laser etched on top bar. In my opinion, just like the crown and caseback, this should be engraved for the price.

The movement

The movement powering the Fears Redcliffe is the Ronda 515. It’s a Swiss Made quartz that I’ve seen a couple of times before (Scurfa, Etiqus). It’s not a particularly expensive movement – you can get one for around £8 – but it’s a tremendously hard working and reliable one. It has a 45 month battery life, 1 jewel, accuracy of -10/+20 seconds / month and date function. Whilst there’s not a lot exciting about it, in a way that’s a good thing as you know that you have a dependable servant on your wrist.
However, I’ll say this now: for a watch costing this much, I’m disappointed it’s not an automatic.

Final comments

There’s no doubt that Fears have a glorious heritage that deserves recognition, and the work that Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, an actual family member of the original founder, has done to relaunch it truly is admirable.
However, I can’t help but feel that £650 is on the pricey side. I’m always on the lookout for watches that offer exceptional value for money, and sadly I don’t believe the Redcliffe does that.

Let’s give the Redcliffe credit where it’s due: the design is timeless – I’m digging the lacquered gloss dial and the excellent use of the brand identity shape. You also get a excellent 5 years warranty, and the packaging is extra special.

But in the hand, it’s not as breathtaking as I’d hoped for that amount of money. I believe it’s mainly because of the lightweight nature of the watch (39g) so it doesn’t feel as well built as others in that price range, as well as the decision to go quartz rather than automatic.

To put in into perspective, compare it to the Christopher Ward Trident, Steinhart Ocean range and Brathwait Swiss Automatic – all these options are also Swiss Made, but are also cheaper, and more importantly, automatic. Of course, those brands have no real long heritage so that does go a long way for Fears, but does it go as far as being able to charge £650? That’s up to you to find out.

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Phoibos Ocean Master and PX002A Watch Review https://12and60.com/phoibos-ocean-master-and-px002a-watch-review/ https://12and60.com/phoibos-ocean-master-and-px002a-watch-review/#comments Sun, 14 May 2017 21:19:47 +0000 https://12and60.com/?p=7000 Phoibos (from Greek mythology meaning bright, shining one) is a brand created by a couple in China named Ethan and Emily in late 2016. They got in contact requesting me...

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Phoibos (from Greek mythology meaning bright, shining one) is a brand created by a couple in China named Ethan and Emily in late 2016. They got in contact requesting me to take a look at their two offerings: the Ocean Master and the PX002A. I saw they were well priced, house a decent movement and have good water resistance ratings too – so I thought it was worth checking them out.

Phoibos have gradually become more popular recently as they are discovered more and more. But the question, as always, remains: are they good for the price or is your money better spent elsewhere? Let’s take a look at them both in closer detail.

Video review

Phoibos Ocean Master

The specs

  • Dimensions: 43mm diameter x 13.5mm height x 49mm lug to lug
  • Weight: 116g
  • Water resistance rating: 1000m / 100ATM
  • Movement: Ronda 515
  • Lug width: 22mm
  • Warranty: 1 year
  • Price: RRP $299 / £237 (currently available for $180 / £144)
  • Buy Phoibos watches on Amazon

The Phoibos Ocean Master as a whole is reminiscent of that usual scuba watch design. Deep Blue, Citizen, Seiko; all have watches that are of a similar ilk to the Ocean Master. Personally it’s not really my ideal daily wear, but rather I view it as a utility diver that you’d only really wear for the purpose of scuba diving.

The case is matte finished and relatively unusual, with a matching detailed bezel with ridges and toothing. It’s obvious the bezel toothing is completely utilitarian in design to allow decent grip to rotate it; but I can’t help but think it’s more than that and is also nice unusual detailing.

The dial in itself is rather straightforward; no applied elements and painted hour markers with a green sunburst effect base. The hands are the most unusual thing about it.

The lume used really is great for the price of the watch, I’m very impressed with its performance.

The rubber strap is soft and fairly good quality compared to a lot of other rubber straps I’ve seen. It’s soft and supple and has extension grooves to allow stretching to occur whilst diving. The buckle has the Phoibos logo engraved on the top bar.

Phoibos PX002A

The specs

  • Dimensions: 42mm diameter x 13mm height x 50.5mm lug to lug
  • Weight: 159g
  • Water resistance rating: 300m / 30ATM
  • Movement: Ronda 515
  • Lug width: 22mm
  • Warranty: 1 year
  • Price: RRP $199 / £159 (currently available for $99 / £79)

The Phoibos PX002A is a really interesting one. For some, a straight up Submariner homage is a no-no, for others it’s a real interest. Personally, I’m always happy to see affordable Subs pop up.

I’ll be honest, the quality of this watch is pretty impressive for the price. It almost makes me think that they’re using similar casing and bracelet to the Steinhart Ocean 1 – it’s a very similar shape, and the quality of finish and manufacture is similar. There’s a couple differences such as the crown, caseback and buckle, but it’s all surprisingly similar.

This is obviously the green dial and bezel combination, but it’s also available in black and blue. I really like the green look, it’s a little bit different but a deep luxurious colour.

The dial is well executed in general, the only thing I’ve noticed is that the applied elements and the hands are little bit on the thin side. They look good at distance, but up close you can tell they’re made on a budget.

The lume’s not as good as the Ocean Master, it’s average as you’d expect.

The bracelet is nice and chunky, 22mm wide down to 20mm. The double-locking buckle is a little flimsy in comparison though.

The movement(s)

The movement used in both watches is the Ronda 515. I’ve seen it a few times, such as the Christopher Ward Trident 300 and Scurfa Diver 1 Silicon, both of which are excellent watches. It’s a well-known Swiss Made workhorse quartz movement; one which will serve you well for many years to come. It’s a pleasant surprise that this has been used rather than something cheaper such as a Miyota.

Final comments

There’s no doubt about it, both watches are very good value for money, especially at their offer prices.

The Ocean Master is probably one that you’d only want to wear actually scuba diving or swimming, as it’s not really a casual wear – more of a utility watch that’s designed for a certain thing, which it is of course. I personally don’t find it too attractive so I wouldn’t don it regularly at all.

The PX002A is a much more wearable timepiece. It’s obviously a Rolex Submariner homage, so that will be attractive to certain people looking for one at a decent price that’s well built.

Either way, if you were to get one then you’d be getting a watch worth the price. The Ocean Master, with it’s 1000M water resistance is a very good affordable alternative to other dedicated scuba watches. The PX002A is a very pleasant surprise too in terms of quality for the price.

It’s a shame they’re quartz, but at least they’re using a decent movement – the Ronda 515. I have also been informed that Phoibos are going to be releasing an automatic soon, which will likely be an even better proposition as long as they’re kept within the same price bracket.

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