A Smooth Satin Sandblasted Finish

In a departure from the original OPS model (reference 001/02/01), the new OPS (reference 001/01/01) boasts an uncoated stainless steel exterior, meticulously satin blasted for the first time. This unique surface finish imparts a well-balanced character to the watch. Depending on the lighting, it oscillates between a rugged tool with exceptional technology and build quality and an ethereal masterpiece, thanks to the interplay of light on its matte metal surfaces and sapphire box crystal.

Discreet TRTS Marking

Maintaining the discreet charm of the original OPS design, Sherpa Watches and The Real Time Show opted for a subtle collaboration marking. The TRTS initials are subtly engraved into the chestplate of the traditional diver’s helmet adorning the case back. Paying homage to EPSA, the vintage dive helmet serves as the company logo and symbolizes Sherpa’s commitment to reviving vintage models and technologies for a modern audience.

Partnering with The Real Time Show

The Real Time Show, a bi-weekly podcast offering an insider’s perspective on the watch industry, is hosted by Alon Ben Joseph and Rob Nudds. Known as the “insider’s insider” podcast, TRTS invites industry leaders to share their insights. The collaboration between Sherpa Watches and TRTS was conceived when hosts Alon and Rob, individually captivated by Martin Klocke’s watches, suggested combining the black OPS dial with a blasted steel case. This collaboration marks the first anniversary of The Real Time Show and sets a new standard for enduring partnerships in an industry often plagued by short-term collaborations.

Launch and Sales Concept

The Sherpa × TRTS OPS model is available for order now on the official website www.sherpawatches.com or by sending an email inquiry to info@sherpawatches.com. Embracing a business model designed to counter the prevailing FOMO culture in watch collecting, this collaboration is a core collection piece, destined to remain in the catalogue indefinitely.

High-Quality Compressor Watch

Maintaining the specifications of its predecessors, the Sherpa × TRTS OPS continues the legacy of the Ultradive and OPS models. Sherpa Watches founder and CEO, Martin Klocke, delved into decades-old Swiss archives to infuse modern design with vintage charm. The watch features the renowned waterproof case with bayonet compressor back closure (EPSA-STOP) and twin compressor crowns (MONOFLEX), originally designed by Ervin Piquerez SA (EPSA). Sherpa’s commitment to excellence is reflected in the ISO 6425 certification to 200m, ensuring accuracy, water resistance, and durability.

Good Vibes: Mantramatic Movement

At the heart of all Sherpa models lies a distinctive feature — the Mantramatic movement. Laser engraved with the Tibetan Buddhist mantra OM MANI PEME HUNG on two wheels, the movement exudes vibes of love, wisdom, and compassion. Following Himalayan Buddhist tradition, the gears rotate constantly, emitting positive energy from the wrist into the world, subtly impacting the wearer.

Giving Back

Sherpa Watches, true to its name, embraces a philosophy of giving back. A percentage of each watch sale will be donated to support projects in the Sherpa region of Nepal. The initial focus is on “Sagarmatha next” in the Khumbu region and the “Nepal Himalaya Sherpa Foundation” in Kathmandu, aligning with Sherpa’s commitment to making a positive impact in the communities that inspire its name.

Available with Various Rubber Strap Colors

Customers can personalize their Sherpa × TRTS OPS with a choice of rubber strap colors. The brand’s tropic straps are available in black, olive green, off-white, and orange, each accompanied by a custom-made clasp adorned with the Sherpa wordmark.

In conclusion, the Sherpa × TRTS OPS collaboration stands as a testament to enduring partnerships in the watch industry, challenging the transient nature of collaborations and fostering a deeper connection with collectors. With its timeless design, cutting-edge technology, and commitment to social responsibility, Sherpa Watches continues to redefine the landscape of horology, inviting enthusiasts to embark on a journey through time with style and purpose. Order your Sherpa × TRTS OPS now and become part of a legacy that transcends trends and stands the test of time.

The post Sherpa Watches Unveils Exclusive OPS Model in Collaboration with The Real Time Show appeared first on 12&60.

Case and Wearing Experience

The CLAVIUS comes in a choice of two finishes, Black (Black dial with titanium case), or the Black Edition tested here, which features a black PVD case for a stealthy monochromatic look. The large 44mm diameter case of the CLAVIUS is a bold choice for such a simple watch with not much going on. However, don’t for one minute think that this is a bulky watch, far from it! With an overall thickness of just 9.1mm and no lugs to speak of, although it looks large, this can be worn on a surprising range of wrist sizes. It’s comfortable too, weighing in at a featherweight 42g without the strap, thanks to its Tri-Titanium case. As the name suggests, three different compounds of aluminium are used, with each alloy specifically chosen for its unique qualities best suited to the section of the case it’s used for – the bezel, the mid-case and the caseback. This makes the watch extremely light, strong, resistant to corrosion, anti-magnetic and hypoallergenic. Most of the case has a brushed finish, but sandblasting has been used to the undercut sections of the rear.

Whilst the case comprises three sections, you’d be forgiven for thinking it was a two-section case as the integration of the thin bezel and mid-case is virtually seamless. The caseback doesn’t protrude from the mid-case either as the entire depth of the movement, sapphire crystal and slim caseback outer ring are entirely sunken into the internals of the casing. This is discrete and a nice touch.

Another point of distinction is the geometry of the case, which is best appreciated when viewed in profile so that the attractive architectural arc of the rear is visible. A small, signed crown sits at three o’clock, which is surprisingly grippy thanks to the deep knurling and easy to grab hold of thanks to the undercut case design. However, this does also leave it somewhat more vulnerable to accidents!

The sapphire crystal is very slightly domed and has anti-reflective (AR) coating on both sides. The AR does a reasonable job, but for a minimalist watch that’s nearly all black, I feel that there is still too much reflection. Water resistance is just 50m, but this is fine as it’s not really the sort of watch you’re likely to take into the water anyway.

The lug width on the CLAVIUS is a broad 22mm and BOTTA offers a choice of six different straps, including stainless steel options. My watch came on a black unpadded organic leather strap with matching stitching, two keepers, and a simple black pin buckle. It tapers from 22mm to 20mm, and the leather is incredibly soft and supple with zero wear-in period needed. Whichever strap option you choose, they all continue the minimalist, ‘nothing unnecessary’, design language. Plus, with a 22mm lug width, it’ll be relatively easy to pick up an aftermarket strap if you prefer.

The Dial and Legibility

Working from the outside in, the main lower dial is a matt dark grey with simple, but slightly raised, printed batons for each hour marker, which are slightly thicker and longer for each of the cardinal points. The bright green hour and minute hands are only visible in this sector of the dial. The visible part of the hour hand is a stubby isosceles trapezoid shape which extends halfway across the outer dial, and the minute hand is a thin tapering triangle which extends nearly to the edge of the dial.

A large matt black disc obscures most of the lower dial and is raised to the underside of the sapphire crystal adding much needed sense of depth. This disc also conceals the stems of all three hands and the pinion. Arabic numerals in grey can be found at 6, 9 and 12 o’clock positions. Rectangular apertures are precisely cut out from the centre disk, through which you catch glimpses of the white seconds hand as it jumps from window to window in one second increments, in a manner somewhat reminiscent of a dead-beat seconds complication. This is very much the party trick of the CLAVIUS and what makes it unique. It’s ingenious in its simplicity and mesmerising to watch! Even though you know that underneath the floating dial, the seconds hand must be moving regularly at 8 beats per second like a normal automatic watch, no matter how hard you try, you can’t perceive it and you’d swear it’s only ‘ticking’ once per second. The BOTTA logo and ‘automatic’ text are cut-out at the 3 o’clock position, and this text fades in and out when the white seconds hand passes once a minute. 

Although the dial is uncluttered, I wouldn’t say legibility is a strength of the CLAVIUS. Even though the hands are bright, only small sections are visible. And whilst, of course, this is part of the design, I think the overall aesthetic could be retained whilst decreasing the size of the centre floating disk slightly to allow for larger visible sections of the hour and minute hands. Similarly, in low light, it can be difficult to see the time at a glance as the Super-LumiNova is fairly poor and doesn’t glow very brightly. For a watch such as this, I feel that the lume should be exceptional, but it’s sadly not.

Finally, whilst the CLAVIUS does have an anti-reflective coating applied to both sides of the sapphire crystal, I’d like to see reflections reduced further still. With a big expanse of all-black/dark grey dial and a domed shape crystal reflections are bound to be more prominent than on most watches.

Movement

BOTTA has opted for a Elaboré grade Sellita SW200-1 to power the watch, which can be seen through the exhibition sapphire caseback. This simple, but robust and accurate Swiss automatic movement has also been ‘individually adjusted by hand’, although BOTTA doesn’t elaborate any further on this. A custom rotor has also been fitted and bears the ‘CLAVIUS’ name acid etched in a gold colour. A nice design detail has also been etched into the rotor which mimics the cut-out dial apertures for the ‘digital’ seconds track on the front of the watch.

Final thoughts…!

I imagine the CLAVIUS will be a bit of a ‘marmite’ watch that will appeal to a narrow cross-section of buyers. That’s not necessarily a bad thing, as it means that it’s daring to be different and stands out from the crowd. I can see it appealing to lovers of modernism, younger generations who have been raised on smart watches but have an interest in mechanical watches, and seasoned watch enthusiasts and collectors looking to add some novelty to their collection. However, given the CLAVIUS’ $1953 / €1830 price tag (at time of writing), it’s a big ask to expect the CLAVIUS to tempt people away from more conventional historied Swiss brands such as Oris, Longines and Hamilton at similar price points.

With a reliable Swiss movement, sapphire sandwich and titanium case, the CLAVIUS offers solid specifications, but nothing out of the ordinary. So, I guess its appeal will lie in its design-led, Bauhaus-inspired modernist aesthetic. BOTTA certainly puts out some distinctive watches, and CLAVIUS with its ‘digital’ seconds is perhaps one of the most unique of the brand’s two-handers. But the watch’s simplicity might be a stretch too far for some, and it could be argued that with such a large expanse of negative space on offer, a 40mm case might have sufficed.

With a watch this stripped down, I feel that what remains needs to be amplified. More extravagance could be lavished by way of top-tier engineering such as an oil-filled dial for the ultimate legibility, flawless execution of solid luminescent blocks for the hands, or applied indices cut with precision.

I admire BOTTA for doing things a little differently and the brand certainly has a niche. The CLAVIUS is a very clever design, without being complicated or expensive to manufacture. It’s a strikingly modern watch and a unique conversation piece, with a party trick certainly intrigues!

The post BOTTA CLAVIUS Review – The Bauhaus Watch With A Party Trick Up Its Sleeve! appeared first on 12&60.

Fortunately, there’s one brand that’s taken note of how finicky watch nerds can be, and is doing something to address that. That brand is Laco, and with their latest Flieger Pro collection, they’ve created an online configurator that lets you build your perfect pilot’s watch. 

If you don’t know much about Laco, the German brand was founded in 1925 and is one of five manufacturers that made watches for the Luftwaffe during the Second World War. This makes Laco one of the original producers of the Flieger, and it’s a heritage that they capitalise on, with the majority of their catalogue being aviation-themed. I’m aware that the fact Laco’s watches were used by the Luftwaffe might be problematic for some people, but it’s not something I want to explore in this review. Many companies have been party to terrible events in the past, and I feel like how that influences our perception of them in the present is a broader discussion for another time. 

All The Choices You Have With The Flieger Pro

Getting back to the watches, Laco launched their Flieger Pro collection late in 2021, and there are literally thousands of combinations, which makes this something of a watch nerd’s dream. For starters, Laco offers three choices of case size – 37mm, 40mm, and 43mm. Whichever size you chose, you have the choice of either a brushed or blasted case finish, and either a display or closed case back. There’s also the option to have the crown on either the left or right side of the watch. 

For the movement, you can have either the automatic Sellita SW200-1 or the manual wind SW210. Once you’ve chosen which you then need to decide whether or not you want the Elaboré or Top Grade version of the movement. You also get to choose whether or not you want a date window, and whether you want a black or white date wheel. And, as a final touch, you can opt for either a plain or decorated movement. 

For the dial, you can have either a Type A or Type B dial, and you can choose to have it either with the Laco logo or sterile. Last but not least you can choose whether or not to have an anti-reflective coating on both sides of the sapphire crystal or just on the inside. 

All in all, there are over 14,000 combinations, and with such a plethora of options, it’s apparent that Laco has made a real effort to offer something for everyone. Of course, there are surcharges for many of the options, such as a larger case or better movement, but that’s to be expected. With so many options the price can vary significantly, and the cost of a Laco Flieger Pro can be anywhere between  $1,140 and $1,810. 

The Quality Of A Laco Flieger Pro

By this point, you might be thinking “this all sounds great, but what’s the quality of the watch like?” Well, Laco were kind enough to send me a sample to try out.

The sample Laco sent me is a 40mm version of the Karlsruhe Pro, which is the Type B dial variant. It has a very reasonable lug length of 47.5mm and it’s also very slim, being just 11.35mm thick. These dimensions will be a sweet spot for many people, and unsurprisingly I found the Flieger Pro to wear very nicely indeed. There’s not much to say about the case design, other than that the finishing is very well done, and that the screw-down onion crown is very tactile and easy to grip. On the left side of the watch is engraved the serial number FL23883, which is the item code given to the original Fliegers. It’s also worth noting that whilst this is a pilot’s watch, it has a 200m depth rating, so you don’t need to worry about getting it wet. 

This particular sample comes with a display case back through which you can view the reliable Top Grade Sellita SW200 movement. When a movement is nicely decorated like this one, it’s always a joy to be able to see it ticking away. 

A Look At The Dial

The problem with pilot’s watches is that they all follow a rigid design language. The dial is the best example of this, and the dial of this Flieger Pro is the classic “Type B” layout that’s found on many other pilot’s watches. It features an exaggerated minute track that takes centre-stage, with the hour markers relegated to a smaller scale towards the centre of the dial. Because it’s nearly identical to many other pilot’s watches, you have to look very closely at the details to see what sets this Laco apart.

The dial print is practically flawless and exceptionally crisp. There’s also a healthy application of C3 Super-Luminova, so the watch glows surprisingly brightly in the dark. The date window at three has a bevelled edge that frames the date perfectly and stops it from looking like an afterthought. However, the nicest feature of the Flieger Pro is undoubtedly the thermally-blued handset. Its flawless polished surface catches the light from every angle and has a rich blue colour that varies significantly in shade depending on the lighting. 

The calfskin leather strap the Flieger Pro comes on is nice and thick, but it’s also supple enough to mould to your wrist, which makes it pretty comfortable. 

Final Thoughts

It’s at this point that I must admit I have a confession to make. I’m not a big fan of Fliegers. And I think that’s because they’re just a bit too sterile for my tastes. However, at the same time, I can appreciate a good watch when I see one, and Laco is a brand that I feel deserves a lot more love. It’s got some fantastic heritage and what it’s done with the Flieger Pro collection is pretty impressive. 

There are very few brands that offer such a high level of customisation, let alone at this quality, and the sheer amount of options means that anyone should be able to build their perfect Flieger. The only stumbling block I can see is that these watches are hardly cheap, but as I hope I’ve demonstrated here, I think you get what you pay for.

You can view all the configurable options for the Flieger Pro on Laco’s website here.

The post Why The Laco Flieger Pro Is The Perfect Pilot’s Watch appeared first on 12&60.

As previously said, the brand was revived in 2016 but remains true to the family routes and is now headed by Cornelius Huber. Cornelius received the first Circula watch made back in 1955 as a wedding gift, this spurred him to carry out the revival of this family brand. Initiating a Kickstarter campaign in 2017, they raised funds to modernise Circula watches fully. And although they offer both Quartz and automatic models in their classic designed pieces, the star of the show has to be the Heritage Automatic – featuring a NOS movement from Pforzheim.

The movement featured in the heritage Automatic is a P.U.W (Pforzhiemer Uhren-Rohwerke GmbH), initially manufactured back in the late seventies. These were placed into storage at the time of the quartz crises and have been recovered by Circula watches. Each of the movement’s parts are carefully cleaned in an ultrasonic bath before the movements are carefully assembled by hand by Circula’s watchmakers then oiled and adjusted for accuracy. Check out Circula’s website for a more detailed history on the movement and some links to interesting articles around watchmaking in Germany.

The PUW calibre 1661s used in the heritage Automatic then is essentially a 50-year-old movement that has been brought back to life to create a watch faithful to the Circula pieces decades ago and that, I think is very special indeed. With an accuracy of -10/+15 seconds a day, I had no problem with the timekeeping of this piece and the power reserve of 40 hours was perfectly acceptable. So all things considered, a lovely movement with an exciting backstory attached to its rebirth. But what about the rest of the watch?

Thankfully Circula haven’t cut corners in other areas. The watch as a whole is a fantastically finished piece. It’s not elaborate or highly stylised which in a microbrand normally raises alarm bells for me. The Circula is a classically designed piece with hours, minutes and seconds in a case of 41mm made of 316L stainless steel. The three-piece case features polished bezel, brushed sides and a case-back secured by four screws that has a display window to view the movement.

The version I had had a stunning blue sunburst dial featuring hour numerals and a small dotted minute track around the outer edge. The hour and minute hand are both lumed using Super LumiNova, and both the handset and numerals are highly polished. From a case point of view, the watch is wonderfully finished, the polishing is done very well, and the subtle brushing to the mid-case gives the watch an exquisite look. The crystal used is a sapphire, so this will please many and ensure that scratches are very unlikely. The case back gives the specific number of the release. So as you can imagine, there is a finite supply of these movements, and so they are released in batches of around 500, so it’s nice to see this recorded as these are all limited editions. The crown is nicely finished with a grippy knurling and engraved which just finished things off beautifully for the watch itself.

You also get a choice of straps which is another area I regularly see even big manufacturers cut corners. Again not the case with Circula. The one I had was handmade in black leather with circula signed hardware. It feels like a quality made strap and for a change one that if this were my watch would probably stay on the watch. If you did want to change it however the strap has quick release spring bars which is another nice touch.

So you can probably guess that I’m quite impressed with the Heritage Automatic from Circula where most microbrands are trying to make a splash with crazy designs or sell a heritage that is only skin deep. Circula do the opposite; they produced a very well finished simple piece with a movement they saved and carefully cleaned and rebuilt to as new standards. While the movement is undoubtedly the draw for this piece, it isn’t a movement in a shoddy case and a cheap strap attached. It feels like care went into the production of this watch, and it feels like a quality product with that being the case. Add to this that these are limited numbers, and I think this is quite a unique piece from a brand that cares about what it’s doing. Would I change anything? 5ATM water resistance? But this is a dress/everyday watch, not a sports piece so maybe that would be picky? The hands are lumed as stated but would be nice to have a lumed pip at the 12 o’clock position. Other than those minor details I think the Heritage Automatic from Circula is a fantastic piece from the brand and I’ll be watching to see where they go from here! After all, I believe they have set a high bar for themselves with this one!

Specifications

• Case: 316L Stainless Steel
• Movement: NOS rebuilt P.U.W 1661s 40hr power reserve
• Crystal: Double domed sapphire with AR coating
• Water resistance: 5-ATM
• Case size: 41mm
• Lug Width: 20mm
• Lug to Lug: 48.5mm
• Price: from €890
• Buy here: https://circulawatches.com/en/heritage-automatic-circula/

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In addition to its cool, minimalist Bauhaus styling, the straps and dials are produced in small factories in southern Germany, where the entire assembly and quality control are also carried out. Don’t assume that because it says “Made in Germany” means it has to be constructed under the same stringent laws as “Swiss Made”. So this watch likely has a case made in China (some Swiss brands even do), but it’s good that they’ve specified the German-made aspects.

Let’s check it out.

The specs

• Dimensions: 42.5mm diameter x 10mm height x 49mm lug to lug
• Weight: 82g
• Water resistance rating: 5ATM / 50m
• Movement: Sellita SW200
• Accuracy: +11 sec/day
• Lug width: 20mm
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: £429 / €499
  • Code WIAA40 = £40 / €40 discount code
• Buy here: https://www.lilienthal.berlin/uk/zeitgeist-silver-silver-grey?c=17

The video review

The case

Whilst at a glance the diameter of 42.5mm sounds large, it wears smaller due to the concealed crown and svelte lugs. The case is very simple in design and execution, but simple design is not always easy.

The overall flow of the case is simple – a pure barrel with equally inset bezel and caseback, with elegantly downturned lugs.

The finishing is a dull matte, which is quite industrial and rather Germanic; I personally really like it.

The crown is shaped like the Berlin Weltzeituhr (World Clock) with multiple facets. It’s very cleverly hidden away whilst pushed in to keep a clean circle. I’m not going to lie, it does make it a bit difficult to use due to its slender nature – and if you enjoy hand-winding your watch then you can forget it. There’s a funky rubber ring in the centre which is unexpected.

The exhibition caseback is secured in place by 4 screws – again, simple in appearance but effortlessly cool. Various specifics are deeply engraved surrounding the exhibition window.

The dial

The dial is one of the parts entirely produced in South Germany, which is an impressive point. Nothing is applied, which aids the stark, minimal appearance. All details are printed, and the key focus the eye is drawn to tends to be the date window at 6 and the circular channel etched into the dial, which is split into quarters.

The metallic galvanized dial is matte-blasted with a light grey colour, which in itself is reminiscent of concrete and the industrial vibe of the watch. It also goes well with the steel case and colour of the strap.

The font used for the numerals is the same used on Berlin’s road signs and are classically Bauhaus in style. Love it or hate it, you can’t deny it’s an influential and uniquely beautiful design style.

The hour and minute hands are simple pencil shapes, with a thin lumed central channel. The second’s hand produces a lovely splash of colour; specifically named “Serenity Blue” – the colour of the “blue hour”, the special fleeting moment that marks the transition from day to night.

The date window at 6 has a small radius to the corners, and the wheel is reasonably deep-set. It’s a shame the wheel isn’t the same colour as the grey dial but I’m not surprised.

The strap

The strap is delightful – it’s one of my favourite straps I’ve handled for a very long time. This is another item which is handcrafted in Germany, and it’s obvious that it has had special consideration.

The quality is clear upon closer inspection. Beautifully soft, supple yet thick; and a gorgeous grey colour to match the case and dial. Quick-release pins are an added bonus. The light “serenity blue” stitching detail at the top by the lugs compliments the seconds hand well and introduces a lovely splash of colour.

The tang buckle is a pleasant rounded shape and is finished the same as the case. Sadly and rather surprisingly, no logo is engraved on the top bar; but you know what these minimalists are like.

The movement

The movement powering the Lilienthal Berlin Zeitgeist is the immensely popular Sellita SW200. It’s more or less a direct clone of the ubiquitous ETA 2824-2 but more readily available. Therefore, it’s the go-to for many brands who want a seriously reliable Swiss automatic movement.

Specs include a high beat rate of 28.8k bph (8 ticks per second), ~40-hour power reserve, hacking second hand, auto and hand winding capabilities.

The Zeitgeist has a very smart customised rotor – a deep, dark grey with the logo engraved on it; a stark contrast to the rest of the watch being a much lighter grey. It certainly draws the eye and helps it stand out.

Final comments

The Bauhaus style is certainly for a certain type of person: primarily for those who are particularly into design.

If you like the style, then the Lilienthal Berlin Zeitgeist is a great looking, solid watch. The specs are on point; the build quality is spot on. Plus it has that German touch which makes it all the more industrial and efficient.

The post Lilienthal Berlin Zeitgeist Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

I’m happy to share with you all the Deutsche Uhrenfabrik (Dufa) Walter Gropius DF-9001-02. It’ll cost you €260 / £190, so immediately that’s a pretty good start. Let’s take a closer look to see if it’s a decent watch for that price. 

The case

The case is a rather minimalist affair, weighing in at a slight 35g. It measures 38mm in diameter, with a height of 8mm, and a 45mm lug to lug length. For my 7 1/4 inch wrist, it fits very well as a classic / vintage style timepiece. The low profile means it is extremely easy to wear, and coupled with the light weight it is also very comfortable. 

The case is completely polished, and has a very good level of finishing and machining. The finish is mirror-like, and the shape of the case is nicely executed. It has a bulbous, curved edge if you’re looking at it lug-on, and this actually makes it wear and feel a little smaller than the size suggests. Another reason why it’s an easy wear.

The push-on caseback contains a very detailed design, which is deeply engraved with impressive precision. There’s a nice drawing of a building of some sort, surrounded by a well-engraved spiral guilloche pattern. Around the outer edge is the Deutsche Uhrenfabrik name, and various watch specifics such as the model number, water resistance, and model number.

The Walter Gropius has a push-pull crown, which provides excellent grip. It’s just the right size – it’s the right proportion to the case, and is easy to use. It features the Dufa logo deeply etched on the end, once again quite impressively done.

The watch has 30m water resistance, which means it’s just about acceptable to go swimming in very shallow water with it on, not that I would personally do that. But it’s certainly fine to wear everyday and not worry about moisture getting in.

The crystal appears to be mineral, although I can’t be 100% certain. There’s no mention on the website, and I’ve asked but heard nothing back. It is a lovely shape, flat with a curved edging. This distorts the very edge of the view of the dial, especially the numerical hour markers – which I love. It keeps viewing the watch interesting, as at every angle something unique is happening. It’s also very vintage by design, working well with the rest of the watch.

Whilst the case in essence is simple, and actually very minimal, it’s very well made – and I especially appreciate the high quality of engraving found on the caseback and crown.

The dial

The dial really keeps the vintage theme going, and in fact is the key inspiration. This is thanks to the thin hands and Bauhaus numbers. The golden colours used on these also aid this.

The main dial plate is a black, shiny / polished finish. This provides a bit of reflection to the dial, in particular you can see the underside of the hands, and along the edges of the applied hour markers.

The small seconds is found within a subdial located at 6, set into the main dial body. It’s extremely neatly done, the edging between the two layers is completely flawless and smooth as you like.

One thing that I always love is applied hour markers. And I’m happy to say that the Sufa Walter Gropius doesn’t disappoint in this area. The numbers are in a stunning Bauhaus style font, tall and thin. They are the same gold / bronze colour as the hands, and look terrific against the shiny black dial when they catch the light. They’re all impressively made, even though they’re reasonably complex, and application is spot on.

The hands are thin, elegant, and simple. They have a light pitching to them, and are shaped as a baton with a small point at the tip. Just like the hour markers, they reflect the light well and look the part against the black back drop. They’re made with the same German accuracy as the rest of the watch.

The printing on the dial is all a golden colour to match the hands, numerals, and to contribute to the vintage vibe. It’s all accurate and precise, with no smudging.

The dial in total is really well made, and is also excellently designed.

The strap

The strap measures 18mm wide at the lugs, reducing to 16mm at the buckle – that’s fairly thin, but it matches the vintage feel and also suits the size of the case well. The leather feels very soft – it’s thin, but feels high quality – not like your usual thin leather that can be found on cheaper Chinese brands.

The straps is very soft and malleable, meaning it’s super comfortable on the wrist – you can barely feel it.

It’s a medium brown colour with slight oaky tones to it, with matching light brown stitching. The colour goes well with the vintage aesthetics, especially the golden hands and hour markers.

Regarding the buckle, the logo is the key design feature and is excellently made and engraved, just like the one found in the crown. The brushed central band is flanked by polished bars either side, and I really like how the logo is almost like a badge, overflowing the usual domain of the buckle.

It’s a comfortable strap, that matches and works perfectly with the watch.

The movement

To be completely honest, I have no idea on the movement. It’s quartz, but that’s all there is to know. I’ve asked, but not been informed. I would hazard a guess of it being something Japanese, such as a Miyota. 

The competition

If the vintage, Bauhaus look of the Dufa Walter Gropius catches your eye then there’s a couple alternatives, both of which look rather alike. 

First up is the Rodina R005, which has gathered quite a following in various watch forums. It’s blatantly Chinese (it says China Made on the dial), and boasts seriously impressive specs for $120 – sapphire crystal, automatic movement, and just generally pretty well made for the price. I don’t think it’s quite as well made as the Dufa, and a watch made in Germany will get you a little more street cred.

On the opposite end of the scale is the Nomos Tangente, the watch the Rodina is actually based on. They start at £1200, but are completely Made in Germany – including they’re own in-house movement. They’ve also got a reputation of being beautifully built.

Final comments

The design of the Dufa Walter Gropius really sings out to me personally. Whilst I love the idea and design behind vintage watches, they’re a whole other realm and world to new watches. So a vintage inspired, well constructed watch made in Germany for under £200 is a hit in my opinion. It’s a shame that there’s no mechanical option available, as that would complete the vintage check list. 

Still, if you like it, you can be certain that you’ll be getting plenty for your money. Not forgetting that you also get a 2 year warranty, it is a stunning little watch that is very refined and well put together. If you like it, go for it.

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