The specs

• Dimensions: 42mm diameter x 12.5mm height x 49mm lug to lug
• Weight: 80g
• Water resistance rating: 3ATM / 30m
• Movement: Miyota 9120 – 40 hours, 26j, 28.8k
• Accuracy: +13.3 s/d
• Lug width: 22mm
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: €789
• Buy here: https://dufa-watches.de/collections/albers-automatic-calendar-9013/products/albers-automatic-calendar-df-9013-03

Video Review

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Not only does it looks great, the specs are up there too – mainly due to the Sellita SW200-1, a rugged, Swiss Made automatic which is loaded with a custom rotor. There’s a minor niggle at a glance: the K1 hardened mineral crystal rather than a sapphire. Let’s take a closer look to see if we can overlook that.

Video review

The specs

• Dimensions: 40mm diameter x 11mm height x 44mm lug to lug
• Weight: 63g
• Water resistance rating: 3ATM / 30m
• Movement: Sellita SW200-1
• Accuracy: +7.1 sec/day
• Lug width: 20mm
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: €699 / £620 / $815
• Buy here:
  • Dufa site: https://www.deutsche-uhrenfabrik.de/collections/bayer-automatic-swiss-9016/products/bayer-automatic-swiss-df-9016-03
  • Amazon: https://amzn.to/2OnuGc0

The case

The case comes in at a 40mm diameter and feels the perfect size on. It wears much smaller, thanks to the curvaceous rear – the bulbous shape of the case means that the caseback is smaller than the top, and thus less is in contact with the wrist. The rose gold finishing throughout is spotless, and much more sumptuous than I imagined.

There’s a very thin bezel; the dial does most of the talking. The case is primarily polished, with a small brushed ring at the outermost edge; at the base of the bezel. This will prove to be quite functional as it will provide some protection to minor knocks and scratching. It also breaks up the design / construction of the case and catches the eye.

The caseback continues the flow from the rear of the case, where an exhibition window showcases the movement and has details engraved around the outside.

Sitting on top of the case is a K1 hardened mineral crystal. As I mentioned previously, this is quite the travesty considering how everything else is so splendid, and the fact that the watch has an RRP of €699. It’s double domed, so there’s no distortion at the tightest angles, and the blue anti-reflective coating is very effective indeed.

The push-pull crown is really easy to use, and has a very accurate Dufa logo engraved on the end.

The dial

There’s a porcelain base to the dial, with a reflective surface that catches the light well.

What’s really lovely and clever is the channel within the dial, and how the hour markers are bridged over it. There are numerals at 12, 2, 4, 6 8, and 10 – whilst all the others are batons. These are excellently manufactured with a neatly brushed finishing.

The applied logo is equally as accurately and impressively crafted, despite being delicately designed. I really love it when an applied logo is decent quality and I’m pleased to see it here.

The printing across the dial is fine and minimal – I like the rehaut with a gentle texture to it at a higher level providing a deep depth to the entire dial.

The date window is circular with a matching white date wheel. It has a lower border which is a lovely bit of detail, whilst keeping it simple.

The hands are super simple straight sticks with a small pointed tip. They are blued (possibly chemically as up close they have some spots on) which provides a splash of colour to the dial, working well with the rose gold through the dial and case. They are very thin, and because of this, it’s quite easy to confuse the seconds and minute hand at a glance, so legibility is effected and makes way for nice design.

The strap

The strap is made of vegetable-tanned Italian leather. It’s lovely and supple, and obviously good quality whilst you’ve got it strapped on.

It’s a sumptuous dark, chocolate brown colour with matching stitching, complimenting the rose gold case to a tee.

There are curved ends to fit the crescent of the case, which is visually seamless. The strap is also loaded with quick release pins so it’s easy to replace if you want.

The buckle is the same as usual for Dufa, with an angular polished top bar which has the badge logo applied on top. It’s really delicate and great quality in terms of manufacture.

The movement

The movement powering the Dufa Bayer is the Sellita SW200-1, which is basically a new full-Swiss alternative to the classic ETA 2824-2. It has all the usual specs you’d expect: 28.8k bph (8 ticks per second), 38 hours power reserve, 26 jewels, hand and automatic winding, and a hacking seconds hand. I believe it’s the standard grade used, as the bridges aren’t particularly well finished – no pearlage or Geneva stripes to be found.

What is cool, however, is the custom rotor – with a beautiful gold brushed base to match the case. The black section looks to be a sticker, with the Dufa lettering applied as gold leaf or similar. It’s very striking and looks great when you flip the watch over.

Final comments

I can honestly say that the Bayer is well and truly the best Dufa yet. It looks that great on the wrist that it’s easy to overlook the K1 hardened mineral crystal. The design is impeccable, and it oozes quality from every facet.

I personally probably wouldn’t pay the full RRP, but often Deutsche Uhrenfabrik watches are available for less than the RRP so I’m sure you can get it lower than the €699 price tag. Either way, if you were to go for one – you seriously will not be disappointed.

The post Deutsche Uhrenfabrik (Dufa) Bayer Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

As I work in design, it’s interesting to understand the reasoning behind this – in fact, my colleague who heads up design at the agency I develop websites for is currently sipping tea out of a mug with these same coloured shapes. They signify Wasilly Kandinsky’s test in 1923 – one of the founders of the Bauhaus movement. He asked what colours should relate to each shape, and this was the result: yellow triangle, blue circle, red square. It’s also a vital reminder to all designers to keep things as simple as possible.

Anyway, history lesson over – let’s take a look at the watch to see if it’s a decent purchase at $409 / £305.

The specs

• Dimensions: 41.5mm diameter x 10.4mm height x 51mm lug to lug
• Weight: 56g
• Water resistance rating: 3ATM / 30m
• Movement: Seiko TMI VH88
• Lug width: 22mm
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: $409 / £305
• Buy here: https://www.deutsche-uhrenfabrik.de/collections/weimar-calendar-df-9019/products/df-9019-03

The case

The case features slender lines and a flowing profile, with long elegant lugs.

It has a thin polished bezel and underside, and brushed lugs (bar polished shoulders) with a brushed channel throughout the case. The case is smaller on the underside, so it wears smaller than the 41.5mm diameter.

The crown is small and easy to use; with good grip and sits just right on the wrist. It has the Dufa badge logo engraved on the end which is remarkably defined for the size of it.

The push-on caseback contains the true example of the Wasilly Kandinsky test, with the coloured shapes in the centre. They appear to be engraved out and then filled with paint, which is a surprisingly high level of finish. The Dufa logo is located above these shapes and various specifics surround both in an engraved channel.

The dial

The other obvious homage to Wasilly Kandinsky’s Bauhaus test is found in the dial design and construction – an engraved circle encompasses the retrograde day indicator, a square around the 24hr subdial and an angled triangle behind them both.

The applied numerals at 12 and 6 are in a sublime Bauhaus font – tall and thin. They are nice and thick in construction too, displaying high quality materials.

The applied badge logo at 4 is also very nicely manufactured – it is also thick, as well as being accurately and delicately detailed.

The main minute and hour hands are simple points with a very shallow pitch. I love how the long minute hand stretches out to the edge of the dial, and turns down into the slight convex edging – another really splendid touch. The subdial hands are all plain and straightforward points, but nothing more complicated is required on a watch with a design like this.

The German words “kehren aus zweiter” appear in the edge between 12 and 2, which means “sweeping second” – referring to the movement (more on that later).

The strap

The strap is blue with the same colour stitching to match the dial. With a lug width of 22mm it’s quite imposing and wider than you’d expect; much likely due to modern influence.

The leather is soft enough but not outstanding quality for a watch costing £305. The strap does come with quick release pins, which are always a good addition.

The tang buckle is pleasantly shapely and is the same for all Dufas; brushed flanks and a polished top bridge with the badge logo neatly sitting on top.

The movement

The movement powering the Dufa Weimar Calendar is the TMI VH88. Time Module are part of the Seiko Group, and this movement is one of their “VH Sweep Second Quartz Series”. The unusual thing about this watch? It’s quartz, and it has a sweeping second hand. I’ve counted the sweep to be 4 ticks per second, so whilst it’s not as nice a sweep as a mechanical (usually 6 or 8), it’s still rather unusual to have. It has the sweeping charm of a mechanical, but the accuracy and maintenance-free “set and forget” nature of a quartz.

The movement has a 2 year battery life and 2 jewels, and the retrograde day indicator is a pleasant alternative to the norm.

Final comments

This is a timepiece that’s sure to appeal to designers out there. The obvious nod to Wasilly Kandinsky’s test is a good way to attract those who have a serious interest in Bauhaus – and in reality, it’s hard to get more Bauhaus than the Deutsche Uhrenfabrik Weimar Calendar.

As a timepiece as a whole, it’s a lovely watch that’s for sure. It’s a shame it’s not a sapphire crystal, but as far as looks go, it’s very striking indeed. The case profile, dial design and fit and finish is sure to impress.

However, I do think the RRP of $409 / £305 might be a bit steep for this watch. It’s quartz powered after all (albeit a quartz with a smooth sweep), and although they claim to be German Made I’m still a bit dubious about that. Saying that, if you can find this at a reduced price then I’d highly recommend it, as Dufa have done their best job yet just in terms of a true Bauhaus inspired timepiece.

The post Deutsche Uhrenfabrik (Dufa) Weimar Calendar Bauhaus (DF-9019-03) Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

Let’s look a bit closer at the DuFa Aalto to see if it’s worth the RRP of €499 / £435.

The specs

• Dimensions: 42mm diameter x 12mm height x 49mm lug to lug
• Weight: 64g
• Water resistance rating: 30m / 3ATM
• Movement: Miyota 8217
• Accuracy: +5.2 s/d
• Lug width: 20mm
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: €499 / £435
• Buy here: https://www.deutsche-uhrenfabrik.de/collections/aalto-automatic-9017/products/aalto-automatic-regulator-df-9017-01

The case

The case as a whole comprises of a pleasant bulbous, graceful form. Looking at it from the side, it has a rounded profile that encapsulates a smooth and slick form from the rounded crystal all the way through to the exhibition caseback.

Delicate, thin lugs protrude.

The swollen exhibition caseback is secured with 4 screws and shows off the movement well. Watch specifics surround the window, deeply and accurately engraved.

The push-pull crown is the perfect size for winding and setting; the grip is good too to match. On the end is the Dufa badge engraved neatly and accurately.

The dial

The dial is certainly in line with Dufa’s ethos – vintage Bauhaus inspired. There’s an interesting brushed appearance to the base of the dial, providing a small amount of texture – but only up close.

The Dufa logo is an applied badge at 12, and for me really makes the dial. It’s the only applied element on there, but it’s just enough to make an impression. It’s deep, accurately machined and achieves creating an impact.

The most annoying thing about the watch is the hour indicator at 9. The whole purpose of this timepiece is to be a regulator; that’s how it’s marketed obviously – where each hand is split into separate subdials. Therefore, you’d expect the hour hand to still behave as normal – with a rotation every 12 hours. However, they have just used a 24 hour indicator in place. This obviously behaves differently – it rotates once every 24 hours instead of every 12 hours… meaning you can’t glance at the dial and read it as normal. I’ve found I’ve managed to get used to it, but it’s still not quite the same and for the amount you’re paying, you’d expect a proper regulator.

The time here is 12:56, not 6:56 as you’d expect

The Aalto has splendid, elegant, long hands. The minute hand curves downwards at the tip to follow the dip around the edge of the dial which is a delicate feature.

The strap

The leather strap is on the thinner than average side to go with the retro theme. But, don’t let the slender figure of the strap deceive you – it truly is lovely, high quality and delightfully supple. It has attractive printing on the back as far as embossing goes (I though it looked cool enough to mention). The leather has a matte finish, which I much prefer to a glossy patent alternative.

The strap is very comfortable when wearing, and as it is plain black with matching stitching it suits the watch in general just fine. It also has the addition of quick release pins, which in my opinion should be included on every watch – this will ensure quick and easy strap changes.

The strap has an interesting and shapely tang buckle; a sort of triangular top bar with the logo applied and set within a badge on top. It’s an exhibit of close attention to detail by Dufa.

The movement

The movement powering the Aalto is the Miyota 8217 – which is practically the same as the more popular 8215 which can be found in the Spinnaker Cahill, James McCabe Heritage, and Ballast Trafalgar – but with a 24 hour indicator at 9.

The accuracy is rather incredible: timed using my Lepsi Watch Scope, it’s coming in at a surprising +5.2 sec/day. That’s great news – obviously it must have had a measure of regulating to get it that accurate. Other specs include a 42 hour power reserve, hand wind capabilities, and a beat rate of 21.6k bph (6 ticks per second).

The quality of finish is surprisingly smart for a Miyota, usually they have very basic finishing and sometimes they’re not the cleanest either, but that’s not the case here.

The Dufa Aalto comes equipped with a custom rotor, featuring a blue top with the Dufa logo inlaid in a metallic style. The rotor is a bit on the noisy side when it’s free spinning.

Final comments

Firstly, €499 / £435 is certainly on the highest end to pay for a Miyota powered timepiece – personally, it’s too much for me, when you can Swiss Made watches for a similar price. The good news is that DuFa watches are often available for less than the RRP, so I’m sure it’ll be available for slightly less than the asking price in due course.

Saying that, the Aalto truly is a lovely watch that is well designed and comprehensively constructed. The contoured case and sophisticated dial design make it a pleasure to survey; BUT – as long as you get used to the hour subdial showing a 24 hour rotation rather than the expected 12 hour.

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Of course, an automatic immediately raises the price – so the Breuer comes in at €689 / ~£600. That does seem a bit steep at first glance, but you are getting a really nicely designed timepiece that looks the part. Let’s see if it truly does do the price tag justice.

The specs

• Dimensions: 38mm diameter x 10.3mm height x 46mm lug to lug
• Weight: 51g
• Water resistance rating: 3ATM / 30m
• Movement: Miyota 9015
• Lug width: 18mm
• Accuracy: 9.9 s/d
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: €689

The case

The case is simple in design: round, with thin spindly protruding lugs. Despite the small build, the quality is there – in the hand it’s nice to hold and look at.

It’s well finished too, being completely polished apart from a thin brushed slice around the outside edge below the bezel, as well as the outsides of the lugs.

The side profile shows the rather curvaceous form of the case – the base of it which makes contact with your wrist is smaller than the top, so it actually feels much smaller on the wrist than the 38mm (which isn’t massive to start with). This, as well as the light weight of 51g makes it a very easy watch to wear. It’s very comfortable.

The push-pull crown is small and unassuming, but provides enough grip to use easily. There is the Dufa logo accurately engraved on the end.

The caseback is a nice alternative to the traditional full-movement exhibition window. Rather than showing the entire Miyota 9015, it’s halved with the centre bearing of the rotor showing. It’s not a problem, as the movement is pretty plain – so nothing lost really, but it’s nice to see something a bit different.

The dial

All Dufa watches are very retro and vintage inspired, and the Breuer is no different. It’s extremely classic and Art Deco, thanks to the simple hands and hour markers and minimal printing.

The dial itself dark blue; luxurious and elegant, providing good legibility. It has a vertical linear brushing to it which provides a tiny amount of texture and softness.

The hour markers are all applied, and have a brushed finish. They are straight batons apart from the 12, where numerals are used instead. The applied elements are all good quality, well machined and flawless. The applied logo is located in the centre of top half. It’s nicely crafted considering the size, and is a striking design thanks to the shield shape.

The hands are same brushed finish – very simple batons with small points on the end and a small pitch. The seconds hand is an even thinner stick with a disc acting as the counterweight.

The date window is located just above the 6. A nice touch is that the wheel is concealed thanks to the matching colour of the dial. It has a bevelled border around it which is well executed.

The movement

The movement powering the Dufa Breuer is the Miyota 9015. It seems that this and the Seiko NH35A are the two go-to movements for microbrands and sub £500 autos nowadays. And they’re used for good reason – affordable, reliable, highly regarded, and well-specced.

You can’t see much of it as half is obscured by the caseback, but that’s not really a problem as it’s fairly plain and industrial in appearance. However, it’s nice to see custom printing on the rotor.

One thing to note is that it’s very noisy – you’re in a quiet environment and the rotor is free spinning you’ll hear it.

The accuracy of this 9015 is 9.9 s/d – very good, but could be better: I’ve seen them adjusted to near enough COSC specs.

The strap

The strap is 18mm wide at the lugs, reducing down to 16mm at the buckle. It’s a suitable size for the style and diameter of the case.

It has a brown alligator print on top, which brings in quite a vintage feel. The strap features quick release pins; which I’m seeing more and more of nowadays. Always a nice unexpected addition.

The strap is quite thin, but is supple and comfortable on the wrist. The quality is there, so the thinness of the strap is mainly for visual.

The buckle has the addition of the Dufa logo in the centre of the top half, which is attractively done.

Final comments

I’m going to say it straight up: I think the full RRP of €689 / ~£600 is too much for a watch with a Miyota in it. Fact. But, not to fear, as I have found it on Amazon for £400 – a bit better, but I still think it’s a little steep.

Price aside, as it the case with pretty much all Dufa watches – the design is delightful. A charming, quaint, vintage themed timepiece that is incredibly simple, but still works. The build quality is neat and the Breuer looks impressive on the wrist; it’s also a very functional size at 38mm in diameter. The case is precisely manufactured too, and all this leads to an overall pleasurable experience with the Dufa Breuer. I wouldn’t recommend it at full RPP, but if you can snag a deal on one then I would definitely say go for it.

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I’m happy to share with you all the Deutsche Uhrenfabrik (Dufa) Walter Gropius DF-9001-02. It’ll cost you €260 / £190, so immediately that’s a pretty good start. Let’s take a closer look to see if it’s a decent watch for that price. 

The case

The case is a rather minimalist affair, weighing in at a slight 35g. It measures 38mm in diameter, with a height of 8mm, and a 45mm lug to lug length. For my 7 1/4 inch wrist, it fits very well as a classic / vintage style timepiece. The low profile means it is extremely easy to wear, and coupled with the light weight it is also very comfortable. 

The case is completely polished, and has a very good level of finishing and machining. The finish is mirror-like, and the shape of the case is nicely executed. It has a bulbous, curved edge if you’re looking at it lug-on, and this actually makes it wear and feel a little smaller than the size suggests. Another reason why it’s an easy wear.

The push-on caseback contains a very detailed design, which is deeply engraved with impressive precision. There’s a nice drawing of a building of some sort, surrounded by a well-engraved spiral guilloche pattern. Around the outer edge is the Deutsche Uhrenfabrik name, and various watch specifics such as the model number, water resistance, and model number.

The Walter Gropius has a push-pull crown, which provides excellent grip. It’s just the right size – it’s the right proportion to the case, and is easy to use. It features the Dufa logo deeply etched on the end, once again quite impressively done.

The watch has 30m water resistance, which means it’s just about acceptable to go swimming in very shallow water with it on, not that I would personally do that. But it’s certainly fine to wear everyday and not worry about moisture getting in.

The crystal appears to be mineral, although I can’t be 100% certain. There’s no mention on the website, and I’ve asked but heard nothing back. It is a lovely shape, flat with a curved edging. This distorts the very edge of the view of the dial, especially the numerical hour markers – which I love. It keeps viewing the watch interesting, as at every angle something unique is happening. It’s also very vintage by design, working well with the rest of the watch.

Whilst the case in essence is simple, and actually very minimal, it’s very well made – and I especially appreciate the high quality of engraving found on the caseback and crown.

The dial

The dial really keeps the vintage theme going, and in fact is the key inspiration. This is thanks to the thin hands and Bauhaus numbers. The golden colours used on these also aid this.

The main dial plate is a black, shiny / polished finish. This provides a bit of reflection to the dial, in particular you can see the underside of the hands, and along the edges of the applied hour markers.

The small seconds is found within a subdial located at 6, set into the main dial body. It’s extremely neatly done, the edging between the two layers is completely flawless and smooth as you like.

One thing that I always love is applied hour markers. And I’m happy to say that the Sufa Walter Gropius doesn’t disappoint in this area. The numbers are in a stunning Bauhaus style font, tall and thin. They are the same gold / bronze colour as the hands, and look terrific against the shiny black dial when they catch the light. They’re all impressively made, even though they’re reasonably complex, and application is spot on.

The hands are thin, elegant, and simple. They have a light pitching to them, and are shaped as a baton with a small point at the tip. Just like the hour markers, they reflect the light well and look the part against the black back drop. They’re made with the same German accuracy as the rest of the watch.

The printing on the dial is all a golden colour to match the hands, numerals, and to contribute to the vintage vibe. It’s all accurate and precise, with no smudging.

The dial in total is really well made, and is also excellently designed.

The strap

The strap measures 18mm wide at the lugs, reducing to 16mm at the buckle – that’s fairly thin, but it matches the vintage feel and also suits the size of the case well. The leather feels very soft – it’s thin, but feels high quality – not like your usual thin leather that can be found on cheaper Chinese brands.

The straps is very soft and malleable, meaning it’s super comfortable on the wrist – you can barely feel it.

It’s a medium brown colour with slight oaky tones to it, with matching light brown stitching. The colour goes well with the vintage aesthetics, especially the golden hands and hour markers.

Regarding the buckle, the logo is the key design feature and is excellently made and engraved, just like the one found in the crown. The brushed central band is flanked by polished bars either side, and I really like how the logo is almost like a badge, overflowing the usual domain of the buckle.

It’s a comfortable strap, that matches and works perfectly with the watch.

The movement

To be completely honest, I have no idea on the movement. It’s quartz, but that’s all there is to know. I’ve asked, but not been informed. I would hazard a guess of it being something Japanese, such as a Miyota. 

The competition

If the vintage, Bauhaus look of the Dufa Walter Gropius catches your eye then there’s a couple alternatives, both of which look rather alike. 

First up is the Rodina R005, which has gathered quite a following in various watch forums. It’s blatantly Chinese (it says China Made on the dial), and boasts seriously impressive specs for $120 – sapphire crystal, automatic movement, and just generally pretty well made for the price. I don’t think it’s quite as well made as the Dufa, and a watch made in Germany will get you a little more street cred.

On the opposite end of the scale is the Nomos Tangente, the watch the Rodina is actually based on. They start at £1200, but are completely Made in Germany – including they’re own in-house movement. They’ve also got a reputation of being beautifully built.

Final comments

The design of the Dufa Walter Gropius really sings out to me personally. Whilst I love the idea and design behind vintage watches, they’re a whole other realm and world to new watches. So a vintage inspired, well constructed watch made in Germany for under £200 is a hit in my opinion. It’s a shame that there’s no mechanical option available, as that would complete the vintage check list. 

Still, if you like it, you can be certain that you’ll be getting plenty for your money. Not forgetting that you also get a 2 year warranty, it is a stunning little watch that is very refined and well put together. If you like it, go for it.

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