Speaking of affordable, this brings me to the Defender MKI, a watch that made a big splash in the market as it took the tried and tested field watch formula and flipped it on its head. Unfortunately, I never got hands-on with the MKI (Gen 1) Defender, so I can’t comment on how much or how little it’s improved, but things have certainly changed in terms of it’s overall aesthetic and in its core.

The specs

• Diameter: 42.4mm
• Thickness: 12.2mm
• Lug-to-lug: 49.5mm
• Lug width: 22mm
• Case Material: Stainless Steel
• Crystal: Mineral
• Dial: Khaki
• Movement: Cal.F6B22
• Power reserve: Approximately 40 hours / tested at 44hrs 38mins
• Accuracy: -15/+25 seconds per day
• Jewels: 22
• Water resistance: 100m
• Weight: 82g
• Strap: Calf skin Leather
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: $330 (~£250)
• Buy here:
  • Orient: https://www.orient-watch.com/Collections/ORIENT/Sports/ORIENT%3A-Mechanical-Sports-Watch/p/RA-AK0405Y
  • Amazon: https://amzn.to/3gfoSyO

Let’s begin by taking a quick look at everything that is the same as the MKI and first up the crystal, it’s still mineral, it would have been nice to see a Sapphire upgrade, but that isn’t the case. What is pleasing is that Orient has kept the generous amount of AR coating as it helps with the legibility in bright environments.

The case finish remains identical as before too, which is brilliant. The crown is also very similar as both are screw-down though the MKII has had some visual tweaks. The MKI and MKII also both have 100m of water resistance and the same dial features (sub-dials) albeit in a different configuration. The case profile and style appear to be very similar too, which is a great thing as it’s an attractive shape.

So, what’s changed? Well for starters, the case diameter has increased by 0.4mm making it 42.4mm, the thickness has also altered and is now 0.2mm greater at 12.2mm. The lug-to-lug has also seen a significant increase from 48mm to a longer 49.5mm; an odd move really as this does somewhat alienate those of us with slimmer wrists, though we may not have been the target demographic in the first place. On my six-inch (15.24cm) wrist the MKII does wear big and the lugs tend to overhang slightly, though it’s still a comfortable watch to wear thanks to profile and design characteristics of the case. The lugs, for instance, flow down in a manner which helps the strap curve with the shape of my wrist. The screw-down caseback also isn’t a detriment to comfort as although it does somewhat extend beyond the bottom of the case – it doesn’t make the watch sit atop my wrist as some others have. The weight is nice too, striking a pleasant balance between solid feeling and lightweight. Of course, comfort is purely subjective, and it more than likely will wear different on you.

While we’re on how the watch wears let’s discuss the strap and if I’m speaking honestly, I prefer the style of the one found on the MKI, though I can’t comment on if it’s any good. The MKII’s strap, however, I can, and it’s a mixed bag. Aesthetically it just doesn’t work for me; the style looks more like what you would see on a casual dress watch rather than a field watch. The colour of the strap works fantastically with the Khaki dial though, but as mentioned the style just clashes. I’m also not a fan of the finish of the strap, it’s a little shiny looking and also feels a bit odd, not plasticky as such, it feels like it has some sort of wax coating on it. It’s a touch rigid too as it’s taking a fair while to break in and soften, though, given more time, this will improve dramatically. I did also note some heavy creasing where I have been wearing it, so you may want to invest in a leather care kit to keep it looking fresh.

The inner part of the strap feels great; it’s calfskin leather which is soft, smooth and feels great against your skin. The build and hardware are great as well, the stitching is uniform, clean and well done. The keepers follow suit too as they are cleanly cut and well made. The buckle is a highlight also; it’s solid, it’s signed and matches the finish of the case – thank you Orient. It’s a real bugbear when the buckle is mismatched to the case, but that’s probably just me.

Another sizeable departure from the MKI is the dial arrangement; the core features are the same, though Orient has opted to move things around. On the MKI the day sub-dial was on the right-hand side and was larger, now this is on the left and smaller. The 24-hour sub-dial is now the larger sub-dial whereas on the MKI it was smaller. Essentially, they’ve swapped places and size. The date window has also moved from the MKI’s six o’clock position to the three o’clock. And finally, the applied logo has moved diagonally upwards and across, and now sits between the five and ten minute markers. The minute track has also changed as the MKI had two sets – which looked a little cluttered and now on the MKII, there is one minute track which looks cleaner. The indices are somewhat different too as they feature a more prominent black border. You’ll also note that Orient has removed the frame bordering the date window. The final thing to change is the hands; on the MKI they looked more like hands you’d find on a pilots watch, and now they’re partially skeletonised and feature broad counterbalances. The second’s hand has been visually tweaked too as it’s now red, as is the hand on the 24-hour sub-dial. I’m all for adding colour, but here, it doesn’t mesh that well, and I prefer the all-white look of the MKI, it just suits the style better or maybe it’s that the red clashes too much with this Khaki dial? As a whole, though I like most of the changes and Orient has gone a long way to making the MKII more balanced and pleasing if you will.

As previously mentioned, the case hasn’t altered that much say for the size. This is a good thing as most like how the sandblasted finish works with this style of watch, and I agree, it works well, and it’s been done to a high standard. The build is top-notch too as the watch head feels dense and solid but not bulky. The side profile looks clean, by that I mean no major gaps can be seen, this not only looks good but is testament to their capabilities. I’m also a fan of how the bezel and side of the crystal are set to the same angle – it’s a nice little attention to detail. The layers at the side also helps break up the vertical profile as it’s not one continuous slab though horizontally there’s not much going on; honestly, that is usually par for the course with field watches. I also really appreciate how the lugs perfectly flow with the side of the case; it’s so pleasing and lends itself to a lovely profile. The lugs also curve down nicely, which adds a touch of elegance to this otherwise robust-looking watch.

The crown has seen an update too, it’s position has moved in line with the date window and now is signed with a satin-brushed finish. The crown is still a touch shiny when compared to the case, and it does somewhat stand out a little too much for my taste.  On the plus side the grip is brilliant and makes using it a breeze.

The caseback has also been altered yet down-graded in my opinion. The MKI’s had a bit more flair and design about it, whereas the MKII’s is a bit plain, though if one thing was to be altered negatively, I’m glad it’s the caseback as you don’t see it all that often anyway.

One more area that’s had a substantial upgrade is in the heart – the movement. Inside the MKI was the 46B40 which has 21 jewels and is 21600bph with a forty-hour power reserve. Now the MKII has the newer, better Cal.F6B22. This also is 21600bph but has an extra Jewel and now features hacking, hand-winding and a quick set date function – pretty much all the things missing from the MKI. I’m pleased Orient listened to feedback as this new movement is a step in the right direction and a real upgrade. First of all the power reserve, quoted at 40 hours and tested at 44 hours 38 minutes, it’s not revolutionary, but still pretty impressive given the complexity of the movement and price point. The hacking and hand-winding is a great addition too as it’s now way easier to set the time and get the watch going if you’ve not used it in a few days. The winding feels smooth with a reassuringly solid feel and has no horrible feedback either. To wind the watch you unscrew the crown, and upon this action, the manual winding is made available. One pull allows you to set the day and date, and two pulls will let you adjust the time. All in all, it’s an easy movement to use once you know how and it feels great. Time-keeping is pretty solid too, the accuracy is quoted between -15 to +25 seconds per day and I would say it’s within tolerance, though I can’t be certain by exactly how much. One slight drawback I’ve found is that there is some slight noise from the rotor, it’s not Miyota 8000 series bad, but it can be heard occasionally.

Finally, to the lume and it’s strong, gets very bright and lasts a long time. You’ll find it generously applied on all the indices and the hands in a slightly off-white colour which suits the style well. I’m not sure as to the exact compound used though it does look a bit similar to Seiko’s lumibrite.

As a whole I do like this watch, it’s dense – but in a good way, is very well put together and honestly feels like it would last a long time. The rest of the upgrades, improvements and changes – for the most part, are highly welcomed too, and I like pretty much all of them. The movement upgrade is a real step in the right direction as the MKII is right there with the best in class. There are some things on this particular model that I’m not a personal fan of. This is notably the strap and also the touches of red that clash with the colour scheme. The size increase is a bit of a let down too as it means those of us with wrists six inches or slimmer won’t be able to fully enjoy it – unless you aren’t phased by the slight overhang from the lugs and oversized look. I wish Orient would cater to those of use with slimmer wrists and make a 38mm or even a 40mm with shorter lugs, that may not be possible given all the features, but I and I’m sure many others would love this watch to come in a more compact size.

All in all, I’m very impressed with what you get for the money, and there’s little I’d change. Orient have essentially taken an already strong formula and added in extra goodness to make it even better, and at this price point, it’s quite hard to beat.

The post Orient Defender MKII Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

That brings us nicely to their first watch – the Albion which is so named after the country in which Povey resides. If you aren’t familiar with the name Albion, that is because it’s old, ancient in fact. Traces of the name can be found back to 320BC and can often be seen in literature by classical writers such as Peter Ackroyd’s ‘Albion – The Origins of the English Imagination’.

SPECS

• Diameter: 38mm
• Thickness: 9.6mm
• Lug width: 20mm
• Lug-to-lug: 45mm
• Case material: 316L Stainless Steel
• Crystal: Box dome Sapphire coated Mineral
• Dial: Sandblast White
• Movement: ETA 902.002
• Battery life: up to 10 Years
• Water resistance: 50m
• Weight: 48g
• Strap: Light Havana by Sedgwick & Co
• Warranty: 3 years
• Price: £125
  • Use code watchitallabout for 20% off! Making it £100
• Buy here: https://www.poveywatches.com/shop/the-albion-silver

Povey has taken a simple approach with the Albion opting to go with arguably the most basic of them all – a two-hander meaning there is no seconds hand, and admittedly, in this case, it works well. The handset is high polished fence post style that merges with the overall aesthetic very well, the indices, however, have a touch more flare. At the 12, 3, 6 and 9 you’ll find some well done faceted applied double indices with the rest being made up of a single design. All the indices are done in a high polish and look completed to a good standard. In-between the indices you’ll find a simple and unobtrusive printed minute track.

The dial is a simple affair too; as all you’ll find is some neatly printed branding, the dial also has some subtle texture to give it a bit of character, though not too much as to distract too heavily from the indices.

Mineral crystal that has a thin Sapphire outer coating. In theory, this should be the best of both worlds as you should get the scratch resistance of Sapphire and the impact resistance of mineral, but in reality, I’m not entirely sure it works that way. If it does, then it’s a perfect middle-ground and should be both highly scratch-resistant and less prone to shattering.

The box dome-style has another big draw too as causes some playful distortions of both the indices and hands. One thing I’m not so fond of though is the choice of anti-reflective coating. Povey has opted to use a generous amount of blue AR, and that isn’t bad as this crystal is highly reflective and it does help cut that however the blue is so prominent it does somewhat detract from the vintage esque design. In this case, clear AR would have been preferred.

For the case, Povey has again opted for the notion that simple is better and honestly it’s little underwhelming though does suit the overall aesthetic. The bezel is done in a high polish and is ever so slightly curved so that it hugs the domed crystal nicely leaving no visible gap. Like the bezel, the mid-case is polished though a touch slab-sided, luckily the mid-case is very slim so that it’s not too noticeable. Below the mid-case, the case heavily slopes down into the caseback creating a nice appearance. I wish they would have opted to curve the entire case as that would have been the icing on the cake for this vintage classic inspired design.

The caseback is completely flat and again high polished. It’s held in place with four screws which fits the design though does mean this watch only has 50m water resistance which to be honest is perfectly fine for a casual wear watch. Right in the centre of the caseback, you’ll note the embossed branding that sits in a lovely cleanly done portion of machining that adds a touch of interest. Surrounding that is the specs that have been well engraved and finish off the caseback, though not overly fancy, it’s well-executed.

In use, the Albion scores well as the watch is simple to use and is great to just grab and go. The crown is simple but effective as it has enough grip and isn’t too small to make it unusable. In action, the crown and stem mechanism turns very smoothly and feels very reassuring to use. It’s a simple single-stage push-pull crown which is perfect for this style of watch. There is no ghost date position and makes it that much easier to use whenever you need to adjust the time which is not that often thanks to the quartz movement.

Povey have opted to take a sensible route and go tried and tested sourcing a good quality ETA 902.002 quartz movement which features 4 synthetic jewels and has a theoretical battery life of up to 100 months (8 years) depending on the battery specifications and use. Poveys website lists a life span of 10 years which in theory could be achieved depending if the battery has been upgraded which is honestly unlikely so you’ll more than likely get closer to the 8 years stated on the ETA spec sheet. The accuracy of this particular ETA movement is stated between -10/+15 seconds per month which is pretty much standard.

Now we come to the reason why I felt this watch stood above the competition and that is the included Sedgwick & Co (https://www.poveywatches.com/british-leather) leather strap. Most of the time watches at around £125 come with a decent leather strap, but Povey has taken things up a notch and sought the expertise of a well-renowned leather tannery, Sedgwick & Co. Sedgwick & Co have been in the business for a very long time and are most known for their work creating Bridles for the equestrian industry as well as supplying very high-quality leather that in this case is used for the Albions strap. At present the Albion can be purchased with one of three leather straps – the one included with our Silver model is the Light Havana which is a beautiful rich brown. Starting with the inner portion of the strap, you’ll note the lovely soft tan leather inner that honestly feels great against your wrist and is one of the best inners I’ve ever encountered. It’s also stamped, donating both parties.

The outer layer, however, is not as impressive when compared to the inner, it feels too new and a touch plasticky, however, I have a feeling that this is the type of strap that will only get better with wear and age, so take this with a view that straps like this need to be worn and weather.

The stitching in the strap is very well done throughout and is tight, uniform and matches the strap perfectly.

The hardware is a mix of leather keepers -which are very well made and a different style of buckle. The buckle is Stainless though I’m not certain as to the grade. I do however really love the design as it has a few flourishes including the profile and branding that is done similarly to the caseback. The buckle is held in place using a spring bar and I have had no issue as it feels well secured in place.

The cherry on top of this whole experience is the inclusion of a leather care kit that comes with a pot of leather care solution and a cloth, definitely a nice bonus and will help keep the strap in good condition.

We’ve established that the strap is good, but does that lend itself to a comfortable wear? Well, sort of. For my case use, I found it to be reasonably comfortable for daily wear though it’s certainly not the most comfortable I’ve ever experienced. This is down to the strap and like mentioned it’s age, given more time the leather will likely soften while becoming more pliable and less rigid, because as is, it’s a little too so, then again it is fairly new. The watch design does help with this thanks to the slim profile, its low weight and the lug design. The lugs flow down very nicely and do help the strap flow around the wrist in a nice fashion. Thanks to its small diameter and short lug-to-lug the Albion is well suited to those of us with slim wrists. For reference, I have 6” inch wrist and this just fits on the strap, though if you were to swap out the strap it would comfortably fit if you have a 5.5” inch wrist.

To sum up, the Albion from Povey has been pleasantly surprising though unfortunately doesn’t do much to excite the inner watch-nerd. As is, the Albion is well specced compared to similarly priced rivals, nicely executed throughout with minimal issues, is solidly put together, attractive and great for daily use, plus the added extras further bolster this, but I’m just left not feeling much at all. Like mentioned it’s good – in fact a very good watch for the price point, yet I just am left with no strong positive or negative feeling, it just fails to resonate and stir up any emotion.

The post Povey Albion Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

Upon looking at the listing for the Heritage, we noticed that it’s mentioned the design of this watch is based upon a previous model that Rotary had released decades ago. After some digging in the archives, we uncovered a watch made in the 1950s that bears a striking resemblance to the modern Heritage. It features the same handset, similar markings, an identical font for the numerals and a case akin to the new release. Learn more about it here.

SPECS

• Case diameter: 40mm
• Case thickness: 12.5mm
• Lug-to-lug: 50mm
• Lug width: 20mm
• Case material: Rose Gold Plated Stainless Steel
• Crystal: Bubble domed mineral
• Dial: Silver White
• Movement: Miyota 821a
• Water resistance: 50m
• Weight: 58g (approx)
• Warranty: 2 Year
• Price: £249
• Buy here: https://www.rotarywatches.com/en/the-rotary-collection/timepieces-watches/gs05144-70

Given the diameter and style of the Heritage, one would assume that it would wear nicely on most wrist sizes, however, with the longer lug-to-lug measurement of 50mm that is unfortunately not the case. The lugs do slope down in typical vintage fashion though it doesn’t help on a wrist as thin as mine – six-inch to be precise. Because of this, we can’t recommend this watch if you have thin wrists unless you don’t mind a slight overhang from the lugs. Those with larger wrists could accommodate this better, and it would have a nicer wrist presence as a result. I would have liked to have seen a watch with a diameter and lug measurement that was more in-keeping with vintage dimensions though given this watch is new, this is is just how most watches of this style are now. The thickness of the watch is also slightly more than you might expect, coming in at 12.5mm it is thicker than most watches of this style. We can attribute that to the period-correct bubble mineral glass and the automatic movement.

There’s no question as to where the Heritage draws it’s inspiration, the aesthetic is undoubtedly vintage. From the slender tapered handset to the Arabics, this exudes vintage charm but with a modern twist. Around the dial, you’ll find a mix of polished Rose Gold numerals and circular markers that beautifully contrast against the Silver White sunburst finish. This all fuses in a fashion that is very pleasing to the eye and is remarkably legible too. Around the perimeter, you’ll find a simple minute track done in a style similar to the watch upon this is based. Under the twelve you’ll find the cleanly printed Rotary branding with the model name printed in Red underneath. Above the six – again printed, you’ll see it simply says ‘Self-winding’ and ‘21 Jewels’ referring to the movement. Surrounding the six numeral are the words ‘Limited Edition’ rather than Rotary’s usual ‘Since 1895’.

The case of the Heritage is made from Stainless Steel though there is no mention as to the grade, however, given the £249 price tag, we can assume it’s likely to be 316L. The case is then specially coated with a Rose Gold PVD finish which is very well done. The case profile and shape invokes that of a vintage watch with the three-tier design and lugs that are a perfect match. The lugs I have to say are often overlooked, but I appreciate the extra craftsmanship that has turned ordinary into something far elevated. The twisted nature of them is not only elegant, but it also blends with the aesthetic so seamlessly and adds to the appeal. I do, however, wish that they weren’t stepped and flowed from the mid-case in a more refined manner, that would be the icing on the cake. The fit and finish are great with very nice thanks to tight tolerances and a solid well-constructed feel.

Travelling to the right-hand side of the watch you’ll find the crown; this is a standard push-pull affair though the texture is well done and provides plenty of grip. The size is well proportioned and fits the design to a tee. On the crown, you’ll find that it is signed with the Rotary logo, which is a nice touch.

The caseback of any watch is where you can tell that corners have been cut, many will leave this area blank, some will have their branding and the specifications, whereas some will go the extra mile and decorate it. Rotary has gone down a different route and opted for an exhibition style caseback to expose the movement. This area is high polish and has the specifications subtly engraved around the window. The caseback is a simple press-on which is perfectly acceptable as watches of this design are not meant for adventures near water. Given that, the water-resistance is 50m which is more than some in this field.

At the heart of the Heritage you’ll find a Miyota 821a which is a modified variant of the Caliber 8215, this was not mentioned in the listing which is an inconvenience for those that like to know the inner workings of their watch. We discovered it was a Calibre 821a after researching into the 8215 and uncovering this modified variant.
As for the movement, we do wish that Rotary had gone the extra mile and added a custom rotor, though the original one does allow you to see the extra detailing done. So it’s a swings and roundabouts thing meaning it’s down to personal preference.

In terms of specifications, the 821a has a power reserve of 42 hours which is approximately what I uncovered during testing. The accuracy is stated at between -20 to +40 seconds per day which is broad, and I would say that the Heritage has been better than this as it is keeping time very well. Unfortunately, I can’t measure the accuracy to a high degree, but I know that it’s a few seconds behind my phone and easily within the tolerances. The beats per hour is 21600 giving it a nice sweep, though not as smooth as higher beat movements. We are okay with this as higher beat movements tend to need servicing more regularly due to the extra friction. The 821a also hacks meaning it’s a lot easier to set the time to a higher accuracy as the seconds hand stops once the crown has been pulled. The movement is also handwinding and it takes approximately 40 turns to give it a full power reserve.

We’d also like to note, this is a movement that has a date complication meaning it does have a ghost date which can be heard engaging, though not a deal-breaker, it makes me wonder why they didn’t opt for a no-date movement.

The Heritage arrives on a genuine leather strap with a croc pattern, this I think was the right call as it fits the watch perfectly. At the top of the long side of the strap, it starts at 20mm and then gently tapers down to 17mm at the end giving a classy look. It measures in at 124mm length and has 8 adjustment holes that have been very well done and look clean. The croc pattern is slowly starting to wrinkle and is ageing quite well. In terms of comfort, the strap has a soft inner side that feels nice against your wrist, it’s also reasonably supple and isn’t too rigid. Unfortunately, there aren’t enough adjustment holes for me to get a perfect fit, though it was still comfortable to wear.

The top part of the strap is around 85mm and houses two leather keepers, one of which is free-floating and both are well made. The stitching throughout looks uniform, neatly done and is colour matched to the strap as to not detract from it. The buckle design is very elegant and features some prominent branding that is still tasteful. The buckle feels solidly made and is nicely secured in place. I appreciate that they haven’t simply gone with a standard ‘off-the-shelf’ buckle as it shows care and thought has been applied.

As a whole the Rotary Heritage is a timepiece befitting of the name, the design is classy, elegant and refined which is further bolstered by the strong build quality and extra flourishes like the beautifully done lugs and dial. One of the slight drawbacks is the use of the Miyota 821a as it has a ghost date position, here we would have liked to have seen Rotary opt for something different just to add that extra fine touch to the watch as a whole. However, given the choice, we are glad they opted for the 821a over the 8215 as it is far more attractive movement to look at through the exhibition caseback and it has the hacking seconds function. I am also personally not a fan of how the red on the second’s hand and dial work with the colour scheme, though that is a personal preference, and you might have a differing opinion as this is how it was done on the watch it is based upon.

One other minor complaint is the extra-long lugs, yes the design is striking and stunning to look at, though it means that it sadly wears too big on my slimmer wrist and could likely on yours if you have a similar wrist size too. To combat this we would have liked to have seen a variant with dimensions more in-keeping with that you’d expect from a timepiece from that era – though that is not what was delivered.

So, even with all the above in mind, this is still a well-done timepiece that almost perfectly blends its vintage elements with its modern design traits into a compelling well-done watch.

The post Rotary Heritage Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

The Vorcut collection from Vapaus is inspired by the chronographs of the late 1960s, featuring a mix of dark, brooding sunburst dials and stark matte dials like this gorgeous salmon dial variant I’m showing you today; the Vorcut modernises the bi-compax chronograph.

This variant is labelled as effortlessly cool on the Vapaus website and I totally agree, I understand salmon or pink won’t be for everybody but I think it’s extremely cool. The case is a vintage-inspired 38mm in diameter and a nice 9.55mm thick (excluding that gorgeous box domed sapphire crystal) meaning this watch sits absolutely perfectly on my 7-inch wrists. It measures a compact 44mm lug to lug, make no mistake about it, this is a small watch but in no way does it feel as though the components on the dial are squashed or cluttered.

Just as I was getting into watches I acquired a lot of watches from the mid-1900s and they all had that same distinct feature; the domed acrylic glass. This, of course, uses sapphire crystal but looking at it through the naked eye it screams vintage to me and looks like just like acrylic domed glass on top of the dial. For that reason alone it makes me fall in love with this watch a little more and will do the same for anyone who has a love for vintage watches.

The gorgeous salmon dial has a beautiful matte finish to it and it’s remarkably clean, it’s excellently layered with the salmon sandwiched on top of a softer white contrasting dial. It features two subdials, one at 3 that is the 24-hour subdial for the chronograph feature and the one at 6 is the 60 minute counter, both gently sweep around the dial when the chronograph is clicked into motion. There are beautifully applied blade indices at the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock and brushed triangular hour markers, all done in fine fashion. The signature syringe Vapaus hands are an excellent contrast to the dial and feature a touch of lume, not enough to brighten a room but enough for a watch of this type. The only other features on the dial are the company logo at 12 and ‘Vorcut’ at 6, meaning you get to admire a whole lot of the matte finish on this dial, helped by the fact they use triangular markers instead of numerals for the hours.

The slim case is finished in a two-tone manner, with the case and lugs being excellently brushed and the bezel is polished to create a fantastic contrast and producing a faithful nod to the 1960s. The finishing for me is way above its price point, no rough edges and even brushing throughout, each watch is hand-assembled in Switzerland using the finest materials and this really shows here. Even round to the chronograph pushers, they are evenly brushed and nicely finished. The proportionally sized main crown is ridged and easy to wind and it features nice signing with the company logo. The case back is solid and features a rather unusual pattern, to the best of my knowledge I cannot find any information on what it is supposed to be so it’s up to you, use your imagination and make it whatever you want.

Powering the watch is the Seiko VK64 a hybrid mecha-quartz chronograph movement. A movement that back in the 1960s a watchmaker would have ripped your arm off for. A movement that combines the best of both worlds into one marvellous movement. A movement that provides the watch with ruthless accuracy, keeps it slim enough to sit pretty on the wrist and is extremely reliable. As mentioned before, Vapaus are looking to create watches with a nod to the past and the VK64 is used for this reason, its chronograph pushers are powered by a complex set of levers, hammers and gears, it is history enhanced for the modern age.

The last thing to note on this watch is the excellent brown french calfskin leather strap accompanying the watch. From the first time it went on my wrist it brought a smile to my face, no skimping of quality here, no stiffness and no faux leather used. Too many times companies make decent watches but then the strap lets them down, not fully committing and taking shortcuts. Not with this one, the brown leather is a perfect combination of its the salmon dial, a true joy on the wrist.

I suspect a lot of people won’t have known the brand Vapaus before this, but sit up and take note because they are producing some excellent and striking pieces. Making bold and colourful watches like this one without dwindling on quality.

Specifications;

• Case diameter: 38mm
• Lug width: 20mm (drilled lugs)
• Lug to lug: 44mm
• Case depth (excluding crystal): 9.55mm
• Crystal: Box Domed Sapphire
• Case material: 316L stainless steel (brushed case and lugs, polished bezel)
• Dial: Salmon (matt)
• Applied indices: brushed blades at 12 and 6, brushed triangular hour markers, with applied colour accents
• Strap: 20mm premium French calf leather racing strap
• Movement: Seiko VK64 mecha-quartz
• Assembled in Switzerland
• Two-year warranty
• Price: £365

Notes from the editor:

I am rarely wowed by an affordable watch, but the moment I spied the salmon Vorcut at the 2019 WatchIt! Watch Fair, it hooked me. The colour is so beautiful in the flesh, and it is subtle enough to not look garish, but striking enough to make a statement.

Plus it’s a solidly built watch, with a great specification and a competitive price tag. More people need to be aware of this little beauty!

~ Josh

The post Vapaus Vorcut Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

So, I’m introducing, rather confusingly, a pilots watch from a predominantly dive watch company as the name suggests. The Aquatico Bronze Blue Angels.

First impressions are good, as you open up the box you’re immediately struck by the beautiful glow of bronze, this being my first time trying a bronze watch I was more awestruck than normal when unboxing this beauty. I can’t wait to see how this will patina over time and develop a character of its own.

It’s a pilot watch so naturally it’s going to be larger, and it measures 43mm in diameter, and a rather large 51.5mm lug to lug. I tend to stick to watches under 42mm and below 50mm lug to lug but this wears surprisingly well on my 7 inch wrists. It is covered by a flat sapphire crystal with AR coating on the underside, and it does wear very flat on the wrist.

The beautiful speckled brown dial features a 24 hour indicator at the 11 o’clock marker and is a neat (but I don’t think particularly useful) feature that I’ve not seen on a watch before. The dial is uncluttered and precise, leaving no room for distraction, I can’t help but feel the removal of the 24 hour Indicator would be a welcome addition on this watch. The aforementioned brown dial is contrasted by large printed bronzey brown numerals that are clear and easy to read. The large sword hour and minute hands are beautifully bronzed on the outer edges and are accompanied by a sweeping bronze seconds hand that has a lovely red tip.

The dial also features a date window that isn’t colour matched which is a pet peeve of mine, I think it would have helped the dial immensely and would have made the whole look flow better if it was a brown date window with contrasting white numbers for the date. That being said, the date window is large and clear, the crown has a quick set function for changing the date instantly but no quick correction for it. So, if you overshoot the date you have to go the whole way round again to get the correct date.

The case and crown are both made from CuSn8 marine grade bronze and like I mentioned before that means that over time this watch will develop a beautiful patina and a patina that is unique to each watch, bringing extra character to it. It’s refreshing to see this type of bronze used in a micro brand of this price, other watches at this price point have used aluminium bronze and it won’t develop the same character of patina that CuSn8 does, so when you’re checking out a bronze watch make sure that it has CuSn8 bronze and not aluminium. The case back is solid and made of 316L stainless steel (not bronze) to avoid the bronze rubbing off on your skin). It features four planes, the blue angels and is rather nicely done, the case back looks good on this one.

The finishing on the case is basic, but nicely done, it doesn’t need to be spectacular because the patina that will develop will tarnish the case. The extremely grippy, slightly oversized crown has already started to develop a patina and is a dark brown with me. It is a screw down crown and this is where it gets confusing, this watch almost suffers from an identity crisis, it has 100m water resistance. Always nice to have of course, but this is a pilots watch, not a dive watch. I feel that 30m water resistance would have been perfect here, lose the screw down crown and upgrade somewhere else. The crown also is slightly misaligned, for me, it is positioned slightly too low and overhangs the bottom of the case meaning it digs into the wrist slightly.

The watch is powered by the Seiko NH37, a 24 jeweled movement that beats at 21,600 beats per hour and has a power reserve of 41 hours. It features hacking and hand winding and the time keeping it stated loosely as anywhere between -20 seconds per day to +40 seconds per day, but mine is doing much better than this and currently runs at around +-5 per day. It’s not surprising to see this type of movement in a micro brand as it’s incredibly affordable and accessible, but very reliable. A solid workhorse of a movement.

Back round to the dial and the printed indices and large sword hands are covered with Superluminova C3. The lume is massive on this watch, applied evenly and it shines and shines. The hands shining slightly longer than the indices, a nice touch is that there is some lume applied to the 24 hour dial and the red tip of the seconds hand is also lumed. The lume stands out so nicely against the brown dial and it brought a massive smile to my face when I seen how brightly it lit up the room.

A negative note on this watch is the crazy horse leather strap that the watch comes with, it just feels stiff and a tad plasticky. It does feature a nice oversized signed bronze crown, but I immediately swapped it out for a Vario nato style strap and it transformed the watch and made it extremely comfortable to wear.

This watch suffers from a bit of an identity crisis, in that it doesn’t really know exactly what it is, but it’s very close to being a great watch. An extremely affordable but quality pilot watch that has the potential to soar to dizzy heights if a few minor details were corrected.

The Specs

• Diameter: 43mm
• Lug to lug: 51.5mm
• Thickness: 12.5mm
• Lug width: 22mm
• Weight: 75g
• Water resistant to 100m
• Movement: Seiko NH37
• Price: $279 / ~£215

The post Aquatico Bronze Blue Angels Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

The specs

• Dimensions: 40mm diameter x 11.25mm height x 47mm lug to lug
• Weight: 59g
• Water resistance rating: 5ATM / 50m
• Movement: Ronda 705
• Lug width: 20mm
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: $95 / ~£77
• Buy here: https://mileneal.com/collections/prestige-quartz/products/majestic-ocean-blue-quartz
• Milanese mesh strap: $20 / ~£17 https://mileneal.com/collections/straps/products/milanese-mesh-strap

The video review

The post Mileneal Prestige Ocean Blue (Quartz) Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

The specs

• Dimensions: 44mm diameter x 15mm height x 52mm lug to lug
• Weight: 102g
• Water resistance rating: 5ATM / 50m
• Movement: Miyota 6S50 – 4 year batt, big date, 1/20 sec chrono, 60 min chrono
• Lug width: 22mm
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: £275
  • 20% off using code WIAB: £220 / ~$290
• Buy here: https://avi-8.co.uk/products/av-4065-03

The video review

The post Avi-8 Matador AV-4065-03 Watch Video Review appeared first on 12&60.

Let’s a closer look to see how it holds up.

Video review

The specs

• Dimensions: 42mm diameter x 12.5mm height x 49mm lug to lug
• Weight: 106g
• Water resistance rating: 30ATM / 300m
• Movement: Seiko NH35
• Accuracy: +9.6 sec/day
• Lug width: 22mm
• Warranty: 1 year
• Price: RRP $299 / £235
• Buy here:
  • Direct – https://www.aquaticowatch.com/goods/v9qfrf.html
  • UK / EU – https://www.doubleowatches.co.uk/product/dive-watches/aquatico-sea-star-bronze-brown-dial-bronze-bezel/ for £240

The case

The primary feature of the Bronze Sea Star is – you’ve guessed it – the solid CuSn8 bronze used. The pictures you see have developed a lovely, gentle patina in the two months I’ve owned it. That’s the charismatic thing about bronze: it ends up being very unique; and when you want to start again just strip it back (Brasso or lemon water are two popular methods) and start again. The finish of the case is completely brushed, so it’ll stand the rest of time.

It’s a standard barrel shape, with the added bonus of drilled through lugs making switching straps easy. It’s an impressive size (fairly common for a deep diver) and hefty weight, giving it plenty of wrist presence.

Another key feature is the 120-click bezel, with all the markings embossed accurately – it’s subtle yet easy to read due to the impressive depth of the details. It also has a lumed pip at 12 within a triangle. Some backwards play is there, but it is minimal. However, the primary issue I’ve noticed is the wiggle that exists when you push down on top of the bezel. It doesn’t affect the smooth action, but it’s a shame that the tolerances aren’t tighter (watch the video review to see the wobble).

Sitting on top of the case is a mega highly domed sapphire crystal – it makes it a real pain to photograph and it’s also very reflective. You can tell it’s super thick from looking at it (which shows the quality), but the clarity is just not there.

Another cool touch is the serial number laser etched between the bottom lugs.

The screw-in crown has great grip and the dolphin logo embossed on the end. The thread is smooth so it’s easy to use, but I find the depth of the crown sticks out a little far, and it knocks off the case to crown ratio. Visually I would have preferred it to be a little bit more slender as it would make it a little more elegant.

The screw-in caseback is stainless steel rather than bronze, which is a common occurrence as it stops them both seizing up (sometimes the bronze could oxidise so much that the caseback seals up to the case). It features a drawing of a mermaid riding a dolphin, and although it’s a bit crude artistically, it’s well executed.

The dial

The dial comes in three colour options; this one being the brown. I think it works splendidly with the bronze, complimenting the colours perfectly. The brown is a delicious milk chocolate colour, very similar to the strap.

In terms of design, it’s fairly classic: the main feature being the snowflake hands which always catch my eye. The hour markers are a standard layout, but I like the tall triangle at 12.

The hands and hour markers have a brushed bronze style border to them which looks good and is an effective offset against the brown dial base.

The gold plated border to the date window is surprisingly neat, and the white date wheel works out well alongside the white lume on the hour markers – so it doesn’t stick out like a sore thumb.

The printwork is a light brown / gilt gold, which makes the text a little difficult to read – but as a positive, it keeps it subtle.

The hands and hour markers are all layered with BGW9 lume which is acceptable for the price of the watch. It’s not mind-blowing, but you can see it at work.

The strap

The strap is crafted by hand with Crazy horse leather. It has a lovely soft rustic finish to it and it’s well sealed along the edges, which also applies to the keeper loops.

The brown colour compliments the bronze so well, and the thick cream stitching provides a contrast.

The tang buckle tongue is extra wide, resulting in wide holes along the strap and a more aggressive look. It also feels super secure and is easy to use.

The buckle itself is rather square and aggressive in design, with an angled top bar with the Aquatico logo lightly laser etched on. It’s a shame the logo isn’t engraved, as I’m sure that it’ll lose a lot of definition as the patina starts to sink in.

The movement

The movement powering the Aquatico Bronze Sea Star is the efficacious Seiko NH35. I see this movement so regularly it’s hard to keep writing about it as I’m always stating the same things: it’s dependable, cheap, and will run for years with very little maintenance.

It’s fairly ugly, but as we’ve not got an exhibition window in the caseback, that’s not an issue.

Specs include: running at a low beat of 21.6k bph (6 ticks a second), 24 jewels, 41-hour power reserve, hacking seconds, and hand and automatic winding.

This one is coming in at an acceptable +9.6 seconds a day – I like my mechanical watches to be within 10 seconds out.

Final comments

There’s no doubt about it, the Aquatico Bronze Sea Star is a lot of watch for the money, even with its flaws. The bronze case is beautiful; especially the bezel – however that little bit of wiggle is a shame. The water resistance and movement are as good as you can get at this price; so is the succulent leather strap.

My other criticisms are the depth of the crown (visually I think it could be a bit smaller) and the logo on the buckle – I would have liked that to be engraved rather than laser etched. Whilst the sapphire crystal is supremely thick and looks like it could take a hammer to it, the anti-reflection abilities leave much to be desired.

Saying that, despite the flaws, I still think it’s a great watch for the money. There’s certainly a spike in popularity with bronze watches at the moment – and the Aquatico Bronze Sea Star is a great option for you to consider.

The post Aquatico Bronze Sea Star Brown Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

Enter Kronaby.

Smartwatch capabilities, but with the build quality and looks of a traditional watch – and a great one at that. And the battery life? 2. Whole. Years.

I was very excited to get my hands on the Kronaby Apex, as it finally looked to offer what I wanted, smartwatch functionality without the screen. Let’s check it out.

Video review

The specs

• Dimensions: 43mm diameter x 13.5mm height x 51.5mm lug to lug
• Weight: 92g
• Water resistance rating: 10ATM / 100m
• Movement: Kronaby BT003
• Battery life: 2 years
• Lug width: 22mm
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: £545
• Buy here: https://www.kronaby.com/GB/en/shop/WatchesApex/A1000-3112

The case

First things first, in the hand the Apex feels extremely solid in construction. An impressively thick domed sapphire crystal sits on top, whilst the intriguing case design with multi-faceted finishing really impresses. It doesn’t look like a smartwatch, it just looks like a high-quality, attractive and regular watch – which is one of its fortes.

It has a really interesting, almost unusual pillow based case shape – there’s no bezel as such, but rather the case steps out, creating a ledge. There’s a mixture of finishes, primarily optimised by the polished corners and brushed sides.

The pushers are solid and provide good resistance when using, albeit they don’t give you a “click” feeling. There’s a sheath around the base to merge into the case side in an orderly fashion.

The crown is a mini work of art; with the Kronaby logo embossed on the end which has polished sides – revealing a black inner shaft, with a delicately knurled base. The crown is technically just another pusher – you can program it to activate certain modes. For instance, I’ve got it to go into stopwatch mode with one press, and countdown timer with two presses.

The double-domed sapphire crystal is reassuringly thick, providing a real decent thud when tapped. The anti-reflective coating on the underside offers good clarity, but you still get a bit of reflection due to the dome.

The caseback has the Kronaby logo within the centre, and details surrounding it set into a channel.

The dial

The dial appears to be a little bit aviation-themed, with the altimeter style subdials and bold, printed numerals. It’s simple and legible, despite offering a lot of information. I really like the font used for the numerals, it’s clear and simple, and the lumed dot at the hour on the outer edge frames them well.

The printwork is all beautifully fine and striking, with the logo printed within the top half and the dial subdials in the bottom half.

The two subdials at the base of the dial are inset into the dial providing depth and can be programmed from a selection within the app, to display things like the date, percentage complete of your daily steps goal, or a second time zone. The great thing about this is that Kronaby is always actively adding new features, so you might get an update one day with a new function you can use.

The semi-skeletonised hands are long arrows with lumed tips. The white border stands out against the black dial base.

Unfortunately, the lume isn’t the greatest – it’s not the kind of watch you notice glowing brightly when coming inside from being outside. When it does get some charge, it’s a pleasant turquoise colour.

The rehaut contains a minute track, reaching high up toward the crystal to provide an immersive viewing experience.

The strap

The strap is constructed of brown Italian waxed suede. It’s truly beautiful leather, with a buttery touch, but a tiny bit too long – I find the tail end sticking out when usually it doesn’t on other leather straps. The soft textured top grain has real character in form of a multitude of colours and markings. It’s also loaded with quick release pins, which of course make switching it out super quick and easy.

The standard tang buckle is subtly manufactured, with a pleasing to the eye curved top bar. It’s brushed on the top and polished around the edges, with the logo laser etched on the top – rather than engraved, which is a shame.

The movement

The movement powering this model, in particular, is the Kronaby “BT003”. It doesn’t really mean a whole lot to us, but no doubt it specifies the layout of the dial (with the two subdials) and the generation of the timepiece.

The incredible thing to me is the fact that Kronaby claims it has up to two years battery life. For a Bluetooth connected smartwatch, that’s just mind-blowing. What’s more, it’s from an ordinary CR3032 button battery – so it’s easy to source and change. Of course, the battery life depends on the usage, but even a year would make me happy.

The smartwatch behind it

The watch works seamlessly with the app. It’s so easy to connect and set up, and then alter any settings moving forward. Whilst I’ve owned the watch a new feature was released – double press the crown to activate the countdown timer. This just goes to show how easy it is to get updates and new features which is great; as it impresses upon me that this is actively maintained by the Kronaby guys, and they are constantly working on things that benefit the end users and the watch.

The notifications come in three different categories, which are all customisable within the app. When one of these is triggered, the hands point to the number relating to the category they have been assigned. This is most definitely the handiest function of the watch.

The Kronaby app

My experience is through the iOS app, which is visually appealing and easy to use. The steps to connect to your watch are simple to follow (it’s pretty much turn on Bluetooth and press a button on the watch when you need to) and the steps to program in your subdials and pushers are equally swift and simple. The app also manages the software version of the watch itself, so it’ll alert you when an update is available and completes it on your command. Watch the video review for a quick guide on how easy it is to program up your Kronaby.

Final comments

Kronaby’s slogan is “stay connected, not distracted”; which I feel reflects their products perfectly. At a glance, their watches look like any other high-quality timepiece – and that goes in their favour. They’re not cheap looking plastic, or taken over by bright LCD screens; but rather they are classy, elegant affairs for the discerning gentleman or woman.

They’ve got the balance just right; the smart functions are subtle, as are the notifications, but they are there to keep you informed. Really, there’s no way you’d know it was a smartwatch just by glancing at it.

I love the Apex – not only is the design great, but the construction is impressively solid too – it really does look and feel like a high-end timepiece.

The post Kronaby Apex 43mm Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

Video Review

The specs

• Dimensions: 41mm diameter x 11.5mm height (including crystal, 10mm case) x 49.5mm lug to lug
• Weight: 82g
• Water resistance rating: 5ATM / 50m
• Movement: SII (Seiko) VH63
• Lug width: 21mm
• Warranty: 3 years
• RRP: $219 / £175 – WIAACW for 15% off making it $186 / £147 (15% off normally, unless there’s currently a sale – in which case it’s an extra 5% off on top of the sale price)
• Buy here:
  • Premier: https://carrnegiewatches.com/collections/premier/products/premier-rose-gold-white
  • Classic (with difference strap and buckle): https://carrnegiewatches.com/products/classic-rose-gold-white

The case

The case is quite fascinating, I’ve been rather curious about it whilst I’ve had the watch in for review. At certain angles, it catches the light really well thanks to the multi-stepped sides and variety of finishes.

The bezel is polished, with brushed sides. The top and bottom shoulders have a polished line and I like how the tops of the pigs have a vertical brush, drawing the eye to the dial. It also has a brushed caseback, with a polished ring around the edge.

The single-domed sapphire crystal has a measure of distortion at tight angles, the anti-reflective coating is fairly standard, nothing special.

What I’ve found to be the most intriguing part about the Carrnegie is the lugs. Rather than a lug either side, it’s an entire container that the end of the strap fits into. The 21mm width is a bit annoying (normal sizes are 20mm or 22mm wide, but really it’s not the end of the world. The lug block is also drilled-through with holes on the sides so it’s easy to change straps (thankfully, as that would have been a nightmare).

The push-pull crown has the double R logo embossed on the end, which is a very petite onion shape with a delightful design to it. For something so small the grip is like a mini work of art.

The caseback has the Carrnegie logo in the centre, with details surrounding it towards the edge. All markings are accurately and deeply engraved.

The dial

The dial is simple, elegant. The movement layout does some of the work – providing the subdials at 3 (date), 6 (24 hour) and 9 (day).

The backdrop is a classy off-white champagne colour, with a very gentle texture.

The subdials boast a genteel concentric circular pattern as the backing, as well as a very light channel around the outer edge.

The hour and seconds hands are dauphine style, which are pitched and fully polished rose gold, subsequently catching the light well.

I love it when I see impressive hour markers, and they sure are splendid on the Carrnegie: thick, accurately manufactured rose gold batons with a polished finish and tapered bottom. There’s a double baton at 12 to set it apart.

The printwork on the dial is fine and minimal and is the result of good design. The logo is printed at 12 and looks perfectly in place, and apart from the markings on the subdials, the only other printing is the minute track around the outer edge, framing the dial.

The strap

The quality of the leather is as I’d expect: nothing to be blown away by, but perfectly suitable for the price.

Alligator print is never my personal preference, but at least it’s slightly more subtle than is usually the case. The finish of the leather is also a pleasant matte, which I much prefer to a glossy patent finish; which usually looks too much. The finish compliments the rose gold case really well.

This strap has been fitted with the optional butterfly clasp, which is £25 extra, and is quite chunky when compares to other similar clasps. It has a brushed top which is the sensible choice (I see so may polished clasps which scratch immediately), with the logo deeply engraved.

The movement

The movement powering the Carrnegie is the SII (Seiko) VH63. It has 2 jewels and a 3-year battery life and the main characteristics are the subdials: day at 9, date at 3, and 24-hour indicator at 6. It’s a Seiko quartz, so it’s likely to perform solidly for a decent amount of time. It’s also a “mecha-quartz”, where the centre “big” second hand moves in 1/4 second increments, resembling a mechanical movement.

Final comments

$186 / £147 (using code WIAACW) is a really great price for this watch. It’s been a “grower” – whilst I wasn’t initially blown away by it, I’ve gradually grown in appreciation for the small nuances of design and level of craftsmanship that’s truly surprising on a watch costing this much. True, the design is not likely to excite everybody, but I can’t find a single fault with how it’s built, and it’s great to see something done a little different in terms of the case and lugs. In a market which is saturated with watches that all look similar with little individuality, Carrnegie have really pushed the boat out.

The post Carrnegie Premier Rose Gold White Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

The specs

• Dimensions: 43.5mm diameter x 12.5mm height x 51mm lug to lug
• Weight: 71g
• Water resistance rating: 5ATM / 50m
• Movement: Miyota 8N24 (skeleton)
• Accuracy: +15.5 s/d
• Lug width: 20mm
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: £315
• Buy here: https://mccabewatches.com/collections/belfast-1/products/jm-1020-07

Video review

The post Video Review: James McCabe Belfast Automatic appeared first on 12&60.

This particular Bambino is the second generation – you can tell the difference easiest by the way it says “water resistant” rather than “water resist” in the bottom half of the dial.

I surprised myself really that it’s taken this long to check one out. I finally cracked and thought it was about time to find out what all the fuss was about. Let’s check it out in closer detail to see if it lives up to its shining reputation.

Video Review

The specs

• Dimensions: 40.5mm diameter x 11.5mm height x 46.5mm lug to lug
• Weight: 65g
• Water resistance rating: 3ATM / 30m
• Movement: Orient F6724 Automatic
• Accuracy: +8.4 sec/day
• Lug width: 21mm
• Warranty: 1 year
• Price: sub ~$200 / ~£150
• Buy here: http://amzn.to/2jxgy34

The case

When I first opened the pouch – one thing’s for sure; it was larger than I expected. I guess my expectations were more around the 38mm diameter simply due to the classic vintage style. It doesn’t wear as tall as the 11.5mm height though, providing a slender wear which is vital for a dress watch.

It’s not the most exciting shape, but then again not many dress watches are. It has a polished top and brushed sides which produces a variety of reflections depending on the angle of the light source.

Sitting on top of the case is a very tall, heavily domed mineral crystal; which works tremendously with the equally domed dial. Obviously, the fact that it’s merely a mineral crystal is a shame, but let’s not forget the price. And when it looks as awesome like this, it’s easy to overlook that fact too.

The fully polished caseback has a distinctive lightly engraved motif in the centre, however, I’ve found it to pick up quite a number of hairline scratches.

The push-pull crown has a gentle grip as well as the detailed Orient logo etched in the polished end. It looks good and is easy to use.

The dial

The dial is optimised by the striking metallic sunburst, finish, as well as the domed edge. I love how the hands also curve at the tips to work around the dial’s shape. The sunburst effect is gentle and very subtle; elegant and classy.

The applied logo is delicate and a bit on the light side, but it looks great in this setting and makes a big difference to the dial, rather than a plainly printed logo would.

The hour and minute hands are highly polished and pitched dauphine shape; a classic shape coupled with an eye-catching finish. The seconds hand is a straight point. All are flawlessly constructed.

The hour markers are all equally spotless, being fully polished and a pitched triangular shape.

The date window is also subtle, but surprisingly detailed when inspected up close. A black printed border surrounds the window, which has a slight bevel to it. It’s really neatly cut out of the dial which is good to see on a budget timepiece.

The printwork throughout the dial is clean and crisp – even the text along the bottom which is microscopic to the human eye.

The strap

At 21mm wide, the strap is an annoying width – so if you have any standard 20/22mm aftermarket straps then they’re unlikely to fit.

I’m not the biggest fan of alligator stamp, especially with a reflective patent finish like this one. It’s also average quality at best, so whilst it’s good enough to get by, I would think that if you purchased this watch for the long haul, you’d want to switch this out.

One of the pluses for the strap, though, is the fact that it’s a really interesting colour – a mix between black and brown based on the angle and light. It’s great as you can wear it no matter what colour you’ve got on – it’ll go with black or brown suits and accessories etc.

The strap is secured using a fully polished standard tang buckle. The Orient logo is very lightly laser etched on the top bar. The quality of this marking is a tad disappointing, but again I keep reminding myself of the important things with a watch costing this much.

The movement

This is where Orient really impress. All of their watches are powered by their own, in-house movements. A fantastic feat by modern standards. The particular movement powering the Bambino is the Orient F6724. It has all the specs you’d expect: hand and automatic winding, hacking seconds, beat rate of 21.6k bph (6 ticks per second), approx 40 hours power reserve, and 22 jewels.

For a watch costing this much, it’s impressive to have an “in-house” movement; it’s extremely rare and is one of the key selling points of Orient. They also have a good reputation for being dependable and fairly accurate – this one is coming in at +8.4 seconds a day which is perfectly reasonable.

Final comments

There’s a reason why this watch is so highly regarded. It’s stunning to look at, at such a ridiculous price. It’s one of those kinds of watches that any serious watch collector should give a go once in their life. The level of detail is superb for the money, and although the mineral crystal is a negative mark in many’s eyes, the dome and hue does produce an aura that is unmistakable and very pleasing to the eye.

The wide dauphine hands and pitched applied hour markers, coupled with the crisp sunburst dial provide a sense of class and elegance, as well as a quality, that is hard to find on a budget watch. And don’t forget you’re getting an in-house mechanical movement to boot.

In short, without a doubt it’s worth the money; and if it catches your eye, what are you waiting for?

The post Orient Bambino Watch Review (Gen 2 V1) appeared first on 12&60.

Glancing at the specs (and indeed the watch itself), it looks to be a great timepiece for the money. Seiko NH35 movement, dashing looks, and a lovely leather strap for under $200 sure ticks all the right boxes. Let’s check it out in greater detail.

Video Review

The specs

• Dimensions: 40mm diameter x 11.5mm height x 50mm lug to lug
• Weight: 64g
• Water resistance rating: 10ATM / 100m
• Movement: Seiko NH35
• Accuracy: +9.1 sec/day
• Lug width: 22mm
• Warranty: 1 year
• Price: $199 / ~£155
• Buy here: http://www.aquaticowatch.com/goods/kic4dy.html

The case

The 40mm case is fully brushed, and a simple barrel in shape. The size is very comfortable, but traditionally aviators are more towards the 44mm mark. Personally, I like it; you get the look and feel of an aviator but a more reasonable, comfortable size.

Sitting on top of the case is a K1 hardened mineral crystal. It’s a real shame it’s not sapphire, but at least it’s hardened. The clarity is stunning, however, with an excellent layer of anti-reflective coating on the underside.

The push-pull crown has the logo embossed on the end and is easy to use thanks to the reasonable size and effective grip.

The exhibition caseback has no detailing surrounding the window which makes it look oddly bare. Instead, some details are printed on the underside of the window, around the outer edge. It also has a fighter jet silhouette which is cool but obstructs your view of the movement.

The dial

In true aviator style, the dial is bright and bold; ideal for legibility. It has an eye-catching sunray steel central base, that works well with the concentric circular engraved outer edge.

The dial is loaded with Superluminova GLC3 and BGW9 (I’m not sure which is used where) – it’s really strong and impressive. I’ve found it charges quickly and glows brightly even in the day.

The hands have an attractive fish shape to them which is slightly different to what you’d expect, with a brushed base which matches the dial.

The date window is cut straight out of the dial base, I think it could be neater or had a little bit more attention. The printwork across the dial is very delicate and fine; impressively done despite the galvanised finish.

The strap

The strap is made of crazy horse leather. It is a beautiful rugged strap, but it’s a bit shorter than normal. It fits my ~7.25” wrist perfectly, with 3 holes left.

It’s super soft and supple, I love the look and feel. The horizontal stitching by the lugs and arrow at the base are an interesting touch.

The square tang buckle is completely brushed to match the case, with the logo lightly etched on the top bar. It’s a good size and easy to use.

The strap also comes loaded with quick release pins which are a plus, not that you’ll have the need to change it.

The movement

The movement used is the Seiko NH35, which is reasonably well regulated at +9.1 sec/day (I usually aim for anything under 10 seconds a day out). It’s certainly possible to regulate it to within COSC specs, but I can imagine that as they’re so well regulated straight out of the factory very minimal effort has been put into it from Aquatico’s side.

You really can’t go wrong with this movement (unless you’re desperate for high beat) – it’s sturdy, reliable, easy to maintain; and if it does go wrong – cheap to replace.

Specs include 21.6k bph (6 ticks per second), hand and automatic winding, date indicator, 24 jewels, ~41 hour power reserve, and bi-directional winding.

Final comments

Really, the only negative is the crystal. Yes, sapphire would be great but unfortunately, we don’t have it. Still, it could be worse, at least K1 hardened mineral is better than a standard mineral crystal.

Everything else is great for the money: the Seiko NH35 movement, level of detail on the dial, the lume, and the beautiful leather strap – all make it totally worth the money.

Yes having “Aquatico” strapped on an aviator is a little confusing, but it doesn’t stop it from looking great.

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