Case and Wearing Experience

The CLAVIUS comes in a choice of two finishes, Black (Black dial with titanium case), or the Black Edition tested here, which features a black PVD case for a stealthy monochromatic look. The large 44mm diameter case of the CLAVIUS is a bold choice for such a simple watch with not much going on. However, don’t for one minute think that this is a bulky watch, far from it! With an overall thickness of just 9.1mm and no lugs to speak of, although it looks large, this can be worn on a surprising range of wrist sizes. It’s comfortable too, weighing in at a featherweight 42g without the strap, thanks to its Tri-Titanium case. As the name suggests, three different compounds of aluminium are used, with each alloy specifically chosen for its unique qualities best suited to the section of the case it’s used for – the bezel, the mid-case and the caseback. This makes the watch extremely light, strong, resistant to corrosion, anti-magnetic and hypoallergenic. Most of the case has a brushed finish, but sandblasting has been used to the undercut sections of the rear.

Whilst the case comprises three sections, you’d be forgiven for thinking it was a two-section case as the integration of the thin bezel and mid-case is virtually seamless. The caseback doesn’t protrude from the mid-case either as the entire depth of the movement, sapphire crystal and slim caseback outer ring are entirely sunken into the internals of the casing. This is discrete and a nice touch.

Another point of distinction is the geometry of the case, which is best appreciated when viewed in profile so that the attractive architectural arc of the rear is visible. A small, signed crown sits at three o’clock, which is surprisingly grippy thanks to the deep knurling and easy to grab hold of thanks to the undercut case design. However, this does also leave it somewhat more vulnerable to accidents!

The sapphire crystal is very slightly domed and has anti-reflective (AR) coating on both sides. The AR does a reasonable job, but for a minimalist watch that’s nearly all black, I feel that there is still too much reflection. Water resistance is just 50m, but this is fine as it’s not really the sort of watch you’re likely to take into the water anyway.

The lug width on the CLAVIUS is a broad 22mm and BOTTA offers a choice of six different straps, including stainless steel options. My watch came on a black unpadded organic leather strap with matching stitching, two keepers, and a simple black pin buckle. It tapers from 22mm to 20mm, and the leather is incredibly soft and supple with zero wear-in period needed. Whichever strap option you choose, they all continue the minimalist, ‘nothing unnecessary’, design language. Plus, with a 22mm lug width, it’ll be relatively easy to pick up an aftermarket strap if you prefer.

The Dial and Legibility

Working from the outside in, the main lower dial is a matt dark grey with simple, but slightly raised, printed batons for each hour marker, which are slightly thicker and longer for each of the cardinal points. The bright green hour and minute hands are only visible in this sector of the dial. The visible part of the hour hand is a stubby isosceles trapezoid shape which extends halfway across the outer dial, and the minute hand is a thin tapering triangle which extends nearly to the edge of the dial.

A large matt black disc obscures most of the lower dial and is raised to the underside of the sapphire crystal adding much needed sense of depth. This disc also conceals the stems of all three hands and the pinion. Arabic numerals in grey can be found at 6, 9 and 12 o’clock positions. Rectangular apertures are precisely cut out from the centre disk, through which you catch glimpses of the white seconds hand as it jumps from window to window in one second increments, in a manner somewhat reminiscent of a dead-beat seconds complication. This is very much the party trick of the CLAVIUS and what makes it unique. It’s ingenious in its simplicity and mesmerising to watch! Even though you know that underneath the floating dial, the seconds hand must be moving regularly at 8 beats per second like a normal automatic watch, no matter how hard you try, you can’t perceive it and you’d swear it’s only ‘ticking’ once per second. The BOTTA logo and ‘automatic’ text are cut-out at the 3 o’clock position, and this text fades in and out when the white seconds hand passes once a minute. 

Although the dial is uncluttered, I wouldn’t say legibility is a strength of the CLAVIUS. Even though the hands are bright, only small sections are visible. And whilst, of course, this is part of the design, I think the overall aesthetic could be retained whilst decreasing the size of the centre floating disk slightly to allow for larger visible sections of the hour and minute hands. Similarly, in low light, it can be difficult to see the time at a glance as the Super-LumiNova is fairly poor and doesn’t glow very brightly. For a watch such as this, I feel that the lume should be exceptional, but it’s sadly not.

Finally, whilst the CLAVIUS does have an anti-reflective coating applied to both sides of the sapphire crystal, I’d like to see reflections reduced further still. With a big expanse of all-black/dark grey dial and a domed shape crystal reflections are bound to be more prominent than on most watches.

Movement

BOTTA has opted for a Elaboré grade Sellita SW200-1 to power the watch, which can be seen through the exhibition sapphire caseback. This simple, but robust and accurate Swiss automatic movement has also been ‘individually adjusted by hand’, although BOTTA doesn’t elaborate any further on this. A custom rotor has also been fitted and bears the ‘CLAVIUS’ name acid etched in a gold colour. A nice design detail has also been etched into the rotor which mimics the cut-out dial apertures for the ‘digital’ seconds track on the front of the watch.

Final thoughts…!

I imagine the CLAVIUS will be a bit of a ‘marmite’ watch that will appeal to a narrow cross-section of buyers. That’s not necessarily a bad thing, as it means that it’s daring to be different and stands out from the crowd. I can see it appealing to lovers of modernism, younger generations who have been raised on smart watches but have an interest in mechanical watches, and seasoned watch enthusiasts and collectors looking to add some novelty to their collection. However, given the CLAVIUS’ $1953 / €1830 price tag (at time of writing), it’s a big ask to expect the CLAVIUS to tempt people away from more conventional historied Swiss brands such as Oris, Longines and Hamilton at similar price points.

With a reliable Swiss movement, sapphire sandwich and titanium case, the CLAVIUS offers solid specifications, but nothing out of the ordinary. So, I guess its appeal will lie in its design-led, Bauhaus-inspired modernist aesthetic. BOTTA certainly puts out some distinctive watches, and CLAVIUS with its ‘digital’ seconds is perhaps one of the most unique of the brand’s two-handers. But the watch’s simplicity might be a stretch too far for some, and it could be argued that with such a large expanse of negative space on offer, a 40mm case might have sufficed.

With a watch this stripped down, I feel that what remains needs to be amplified. More extravagance could be lavished by way of top-tier engineering such as an oil-filled dial for the ultimate legibility, flawless execution of solid luminescent blocks for the hands, or applied indices cut with precision.

I admire BOTTA for doing things a little differently and the brand certainly has a niche. The CLAVIUS is a very clever design, without being complicated or expensive to manufacture. It’s a strikingly modern watch and a unique conversation piece, with a party trick certainly intrigues!

The post BOTTA CLAVIUS Review – The Bauhaus Watch With A Party Trick Up Its Sleeve! appeared first on 12&60.

Not your average dive watch!

First off, before I even get to the ‘what made me go wow’ section, I’ve got to say that the unboxing experience set the tone for what was to follow. The Apple-like tolerances on the packaging were impressive, with seemingly not a gram of the 100% sustainable packaging going to waste. Getting to your watch is a bit of a Russian doll experience, so you feel like a kid at Christmas. Think fabric pouch within inner box, within outer box, handwritten notes, all using quality textured card, branded and embossed. It strikes just the right balance between making you feel like it’s a special experience but without ever feeling opulent or like a disproportionate amount of your money is being spent on the packaging. Even the functional protective packaging made me think that someone at Aera must be in high demand come Christmas wrapping time!

Get to the watch, and you can tell right away that it’s a hefty bit of kit, but before you’ve even unwrapped the plastic you also get a good feeling about the form. The first thing I noticed was that the rubber strap is very high quality, without being too bulky like some rubber straps. Then, unpeel the plastic from the dial-side and you’re hit with the beauty of the drop-dead gorgeous, bespoke, high-domed sapphire crystal covering the concave dial. It’s quite unlike any other watch and I was genuinely excited to get it on my wrist. Not a bad start for a watch brand that many of you might not have heard of yet hey?!

Now that I’ve had time to take a deep breath and calm my excitement, let’s dive into the structured review and see if the good vibes continued…

The Case And Wearing Experience

The first sign that Aera is a microbrand that does things differently is that the case of the D-1 Diver is made using 904L stainless steel. This is more expensive than 316L stainless steel both in terms of raw material costs and the machining costs, but has numerous benefits, such as greater resistance against corrosion and ability to take a higher polish than other grades of steel. The fact that Rolex uses 904L stainless steel, gives you some indication that this is a premium material. Aera has not scrimped on details either as, unlike many watch brands that use 904L for the main case but 316L for other parts, Aera uses 904L stainless steel throughout, including the caseback, crown, bezel, and even the buckles on the straps!

The case diameter is 44mm, so there’s no denying this watch is on the larger side. It’s thick too, with an overall height of 16mm. You could probably use this watch as a weapon in close combat, and I’m pretty sure it would even survive nuclear meltdown. However, considering its mass, it feels delightful on the wrist. There are a few reasons for this…

Firstly, the case itself is a much more reasonable 13.4mm thick, with a diameter of 42mm. The remainder of the diameter comprises the overhanging bezel (which significantly aids grip) and the thickness is boosted by the star of the show, the stunning sapphire crystal that covers the dial. The lug-to-lug measurement in relation to the case diameter is also reasonable at 49.8mm.

Secondly, case design and integration with the supplied custom fit, curved-end straps is beyond reproach. The organic undercut case shape combines a series of complex compound curves, with a barrel-shaped centre, and a profile that somewhat resembles a UFO. The lugs angle down sharply, and when combined with the sharply downturned, formed straps, the watch hugs your wrist like a koala to a gum tree. You can’t help but love it.

Lastly, the bezel and sapphire integrate perfectly with a seamless gentle curve, meaning you’re less likely to catch your clothing on the D-1 than most watches this size.

The entire watch has a brushed finish. The top and bottom sections of the lugs, and solid caseback feature circular brushing, whereas the mid-case features linear brushing. The screw-down caseback is engraved with the Aera logo, serial number of the watch and some of its specifications. A nice touch is that the serial number is also engraved onto the reverse of the bottom right lug. The 120-click unidirectional rotating bezel has a matt black ceramic insert with Swiss Super-Lumi-Nova X1 filled, engraved Arabic numerals and hash markers. The Bezel action is crisp, lines up perfectly and has zero back play. Looking at the case on a macro level, maybe the brushing could have been slightly finer, but that’s about the only negative here. Whether this is something that’s just more noticeable on 904L because of the sheen, I’m not sure, but it’s not something you’d pick up on unless examining under a loupe.

The large 6.5mm crown juts out from the case a fair way, but somehow never digs into your wrist. The crown is grippy, engages positively and features a blue, lumed accent to match the 12 o’clock bezel marker. Water resistance is an impressive 300m / 30ATM.

Size Analogy Alert!

In true Watchfinder style, let me make a poor attempt at an analogy here. You’re sat on a train, with an empty seat beside you. At the next stop a much larger than average chap, let’s call him Dave, makes a b-line for the gap. He takes a seat, but rather than being aware of his mass, he ‘man-spreads’ like a Puffer Fish in an inflatable sumo suit. Well, the D-1 Diver is the opposite of Dave. The D-1 Diver is Dave trying his darndest to huddle up and pull every flailing limb inward in an attempt to minimise his mass, thus avoiding intimidating others or meeting some stereotype the other passengers may have of him!

Special mention for the straps

The lug width on the Aera D1-Diver is 22mm, so it’ll be relatively easy to buy aftermarket straps for. However, I seriously doubt you’ll feel the need to. Aera generously supplies three straps as standard, two core straps (black rubber, and grey suede), and you get to choose the third. My favourite was the Orange Pebble leather strap. Make no mistake, these are not cheaply made straps bundled in just to make it look like you’re getting more for your money. The supplied straps are carefully chosen and are some of the best quality straps I’ve handled. All are bespoke to the watch and feature bolstered, curved ends with quick-release spring bars. They fit extremely close to the case and look amazing. The straps are also formed so that they curve dramatically downwards from the case, ensuring the watch doesn’t ride high on the wrist. The custom buckles are made form 904L stainless steel and milled to perfection, with a deep channel to the reverse, which ensures that the buckle sits flat against the strap.

There is no stainless steel bracelet option offered for the D-1, which could certainly be a negative for some people. However, I have a feeling that this might have been a purposeful decision made by Aera at design stage, as I’m not sure how a bracelet would look. In light of this however, it might have been good to fit an adjustable deployant clasp on the supplied straps so it’s easier to get a really precise fit. Oh, and whilst the straps are easy to remove thanks to the quick-release spring bars, they are very difficult to fit, because of the tight tolerances. If the quick-release spring bars were double-sided this might be easier.

Aera D-1 Diver Dial – a lesson in legibility!

As you’ve probably gathered by now, the D-1 Diver is all about function, form, and purpose. There are no shiny surfaces, metal surrounds or chamfering, and the dial is entirely monochromatic except for the end of the seconds hand, which is painted with a blue to match the 12 o’clock triangle on the rotating bezel. It’s clean, simple and has supreme legibility. Think Sinn or Damasko and then some!

And of course, Aera didn’t do the dial the easy way. Extra effort was made to achieve something different. Two design elements in particular deserve mention here. Firstly, the matt black dial is no ordinary dial. It’s sprayed with Aera’s proprietary matt black “velvet” lacquer. (The deeply etched markings are added prior to this.) This makes the surface super-sensitive. If the dial is touched, cleaned, or if dust lands on it after spraying, Aera’s engineers have to start the entire process from scratch again. Now that’s dedication to achieving a vision! Secondly, the dial is pressed as one seamless and continuous piece with the outer perimeter of the dial (essentially the minute track) being subtly curved. It’s this curved dial together with the exceptional domed sapphire crystal that give the D-1 Diver that ‘wow’ factor I mentioned early in my review.  The sapphire crystal also has a double-sided anti-reflective coating applied.

Considerable real estate is given over to immense blocks of Swiss Super-LumiNova Grade X1 which is all applied by hand into the ‘wells’ created before the dial is sprayed. Dial markings are pure white in the daytime, but glow blue at night, except for the Aera logo which glows white. Every marking on the dial is pure lume, including the bezel markings, the blued tip of the seconds hand, and even the five-minute hash marks on the outer minute track. The result is a lume-lovers dream. If you get lost in the woods at night you could probably use your D-1 diver to guide a safe path home.

The hour hand is baton-shaped with a circular design element, and the minute hand is a simple baton. A simple stick-style seconds hand features a circular counter-balance. The hands are all lumed.

True to form, Aera has again shown their design flair in two exquisite details that you might not spot at first glance. Firstly, the ‘A’ in the Aera logo is perfectly framed by the lollipop counterbalance of the seconds hand as it glides by. Secondly, the counter-balance of the seconds hand fits perfectly within the circle of the hour hand as it passes over.

Aera D-1 Diver Movement

The D-1 Diver uses the Swiss-made Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement. This industry standard 26-jewel movement beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz), has a 38-hour power reserve, and hacks to stop the seconds hand so you can set a precise time. You can also hand-wind the movement.

Aside from anything subjective, the movement is about the only significant negative about this watch. It’s not that the Sellita isn’t a good choice, in fact far from it. A Sellita is the obvious choice for a watch at this price point and more than adequate. However, Aera missed a trick by not regulating the movement themselves to bring greater accuracy than the standard +/- 12 seconds a day (+/- 30 seconds per day positional deviation). Also, this is a no-date watch, but the ‘ghost’ crown position, which would normally operate the date wheel, has been kept. This is a real shame as it feels completely at odds with the level of attention to detail lavished elsewhere on the watch.

Final Thoughts

It’s impossible not to be impressed by the D-1 Diver. Having it on loan has been both a delight and a surprise. Perhaps the biggest compliment I can pay the Aera is that I was genuinely excited about it the second I unpacked it. It just put a smile on my dial and made me feel like a kid in a sweet shop. This is quite an achievement, as the more watches you get to see, the harder it is to be awe struck.

The D-1 is a watch that bucks the recent trend of vintage-inspired small dive watches and skin divers. Of course, its size means that it’s never going to be a crowd-pleaser, but to be fair, I suspect it was never designed to have mass market appeal. This is a dive watch in the true sense of the word, a tool designed to be used as such, whilst looking beautiful to boot. Having said that, the watch wears considerably better than its on-paper dimensions. So, unless you have small wrists, dismiss this watch at your peril! To do so would mean missing out on one of the best dive watches currently available for under £1500.

Would I like it to be smaller? Ultimately, yes. But only slightly. The unique design of this watch works best on a large scale. If it was shrunk too dramatically, it would lose some of its appeal and the impact of the amazing dial and sapphire combo.

Excluding any sizing concerns, the only noteworthy negatives of the D-1 Diver for me are the ghost crown position, lack of in-house regulation on the movement, and the lack of a bracelet option. Anything else is either subjective or just nit-picking.

As I’m sure you’ve picked up on, I’ve been blown away by this watch. It’s a remarkable first watch from a new brand, that also comes with a three-year warranty. The D-1 Diver offers something truly different to most dive watches. It combines many unique design elements, it’s well specced, utterly contemporary and it offers phenomenal legibility, probably the best I’ve seen on any watch. It’s virtually impossible to fault the materials used, engineering and overall quality of this Swiss-made watch. This is clearly a watch that has been conceptualised as a whole package, with every detail thoughtfully considered. And if you collect watches, I virtually guarantee it will be unlike anything you already own!

The post Aera D-1 Diver Review – Big, Bold and Beautiful! appeared first on 12&60.

Circula is a family-owned business, based in Pforzheim, one of Germany’s oldest horological centres. If you’re not already familiar with the brand, it may come as a surprise to hear that they’ve actually been around since 1955. Now under the watchful eye of Cornelius Huber, the grandson of the original owner, this brand is beginning to attract significant attention thanks to its concise but compelling line-up of divers and field watches. 

A Field Watch For The Twenty-First Century

Field watches seem to be having a bit of a renaissance as of late, something that I’m delighted about. However, many manufacturers understandably look to the designs of military-issued field watches from the 1940s or 1970s eras. As a consequence, if you squinted, you’d struggle to pick one out of a line-up. It’s refreshing then, when you come across a brand such as Circula that takes the essence of everything a traditional field watch should be, but bring it kicking and screaming into the twenty-first century. This is exactly what they’ve done with their latest release, the ProTrail, by combining their own unique design language, with strong specifications and advanced engineering technology. But is the end result a success? Let’s delve in and find out…

Case Design And Wearing Experience

The ProTrail has a 40mm diameter and a wrist-friendly 46mm lug-to-lug measurement. These proportions will hit the sweet spot for many. However, proportionally it is relatively thick, at 13.4mm. Slim enough to fit under all but the tightest of shirt sleeves, but it does make the watch head feel fairly weighty.

The stunning 316L stainless steel case blends angular geometry, compact integrated lugs, and distinctive details. The mostly sandblasted finish looks good and minimises reflections, something that is traditionally important in field watches, as it minimises the risk of giving away your position to the enemy! A robust, scratch-resistant surface treatment is also applied, which gives the case an impressive hardness rating of 1,200 Vickers, approx. five times that of stainless steel.

The unconventional case is a breath of fresh air, with sharp angles throughout the mid-case and lugs, giving it a thoroughly modernist look. The sides of the mid-case also have a cut-out design with a coarse-grained finish, which contrasts against the rest of the case. This clever detail also helps visually break up the mass. The lugs curve slightly downwards, and the case steps down between the lugs and is cut straight across. This is a design trait I like as it means that, provided you fit a suitable strap, there are no unsightly gaps between the strap and the watch head. If you’re the type of watch enthusiast who has a bulging strap drawer, you’ll have some fun trying different looks out on this watch!

The bezel is conventional with a flat top, straight sides and a chamfered edge which is polished, but has the appearance of something more akin to satin, due to the Kolsterization hardening process. The sapphire crystal has a bevelled edge and sits slightly proud of the bezel.

The caseback and crown are both screw-down, helping the watch achieve a water resistance rating of 150m, which is very respectable for a watch of this type. The solid caseback features a contour map design which is lightly etched into the steel, and the conical-shaped crown features an engraved Circula logo filled with Swiss Super-LumiNova® BGW9!

Circula ProTrail – Dial and Hands

The sector dial design is dual-layered and features 12-hour and 24-hour displays, in-keeping with a military style field watch. The 24-hour display sits at the centre of the dial on the bottom layer and comprises orange Arabic numerals on a background of concentric circles, which gives the appearance of a dark grey colour. Outwards of that, the main dial features the 12-hour display and sits on the upper dial level. Large Arabic lume-filled (Super-LumiNova BGW9) numerals are printed in white against a semi-matt black background, and a white printed circle helps visually separate the two sections of the dial. Finally, a railroad track at the outer perimeter counts the minutes, with every hour/5-minutes denoted by Orange printed dots, except for the cardinal points which feature orange arrowheads.

The custom handset is bold and distinctive, yet graceful. The hour and minute hands are brushed and feature a longitudinal crease down the centre. They’re also filled with strips of Super-LumiNova BGW9 that echo the shape of the hands. The painted white seconds hand is a simple stick shape with an orange tip. The orange tip perfectly spans the width of the outer dial, and this purposeful design choice is a great example of the attention to detail that elevates Circula from other brands at a similar price point. In fact, all hands are perfectly proportioned and the perfect length too. That maybe sounds like an odd detail to point out, but it’s amazing how many brands don’t get this right!

Dial text is fairly minimal with the brand name printed in white on the inner dial above the pinion, ‘Protrail’ (printed in Orange) and ‘Antimagnetic’ (printed in white) below the pinion, and ‘Made in Germany’ underneath the six o’clock marker.

Legibility is exceptional thanks to the large Arabic numerals, high contrast colours and double coating of anti-reflective treatment to the underside of the scratch-resistant, slightly domed sapphire crystal.

Everything appears to be well executed, with precise printing and nicely finished hands. The dial design is cohesive and pleasing to the eye. It also has great balance, with no date window to interrupt the symmetry. The only real negative here is that, surprisingly, the lume on the numerals doesn’t seem to be all that bright and fades quite quickly.

Movement

The ProTrail is fitted with the Sellita SW200-1 Swiss automatic movement, a mainstay for many brands due to its reliability, availability and relative ease of servicing. It’s hacking, hand-winding and beats at 28,800 vph, giving a nice smooth sweep to the seconds hand.

Where Circula differ to most though is that, rather than using the basic movement, they have opted for the Elaboré version which has Incabloc shock protection. Circula also regulate the movement to three positions to improve out-of-the-box accuracy, ensuring a very respectable tolerance of -5/+7 seconds per day. And the icing on the cake? The movement is encased within a soft iron cage to provide an anti-magnetic rating of 80,000 A/m (roughly equivalent to 1000 gauss).

Final Thoughts on the Circula ProTrail

One thing that has become evident as I’ve spent time with this watch is that no area is left as an afterthought. This approach doesn’t just go for design, but also for the engineering. The team at Circula have done a fantastic job with this watch. For circa €755 at the time of writing, the ProTrail is a well-considered and beautifully balanced package that combines good specification, cohesive design, and nice attention to detail. It’s also a watch that’s very much its own thing and not a homage to anything else. What’s perhaps even more surprising is that the ProTrail is a watch designed with significant input from the watch enthusiast community, an approach that if not steered correctly, could quite easily have backfired. As it is, Cornelius expertly steered it to very successful conclusion!

Any negatives? Yes, but very few. For the next generation of the ProTrail, I’d love to see the thickness reduced. Although the ProTrail is a robust field watch, it feels premium and relatively refined for a tool watch, so it’s surprising to me that it’s thicker than many other field watches on the market. The anti-magnetic cage might account for some of this thickness, but regardless, it does detract slightly from the wearing experience.

I’m also not overly keen on the sailcloth strap. Aesthetically it suits the watch and it’s of good quality, being backed with leather and with a nice custom hardened buckle. However, it’s a light strap that is slightly at odds with the heavy watch head. Thankfully, since sending my review watch, Circula have launched a solution in the form of a great looking quick-release bracelet with micro adjustments. Whilst this does add to the cost, it’s definitely the option I’d choose as I think it completes the package and will make the watch more balanced on the wrist. I also think that this is a watch that would work very well in titanium, so this might be something Circula could consider for the future. Finally, I think the caseback design could be executed better by using deeper engraving or embossing for a more premium look, bringing it more in line with the level of finishing on the rest of the watch.

If Circula could make these refinements for the next generation ProTrail, for me personally, it would be the perfect modern field watch. As it stands, it’s still a great time-only GADA (Go Anywhere, Do Anything) watch. In fact, I think you’d be hard-pressed to find a better modern interpretation of a field watch!

The post Circular Protrail Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

Rosenbusch is a company formed in Munich by three friends with a passion for mechanical watches, and founder Eli has a background in architecture and engineering, so we’re off to a promising start. Let’s dig in and take a deep dive into what this watch has to offer…

THE CASE

The style here is ‘refined sports watch’, something suitable for almost any occasion. The three-section 316L stainless steel case has a wonderful mix of alternating finishes and Gerald Genta inspired geometry. The hexagonal bezel very much reminds me of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak with its vertical brushed finish and small, polished screws at the softened corners. However, being six-sided rather than eight-sided actually makes more sense to me as it means that each screw sits precisely in line with alternate hour markers. The sides of the bezel are polished and flare out towards the mid-case.

The mid-case is brushed to the dial side and comprises a longitudinally brushed top section which transitions to a polished bottom section with sides that angle in towards the caseback. The caseback is hexagonal to mimic the bezel design, a nice touch! It’s affixed with small screws and features an engraved maze design with a rose at its centre.  You’ll also find some of the specifications engraved on the caseback, including reference to the ample 10ATM (100M) water resistance rating.

The integrated lugs angle down to meet the quick-release bracelet, which tapers from approx. 25mm to 18mm and comprises polished oval links and brushed H-shaped links. The sides of the bracelet are entirely polished. The signed screw-down crown is the perfect size and easy to operate.

Completing the case is a tough, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal which has an anti-reflective coating applied to the inside.

THE DIAL AND HANDS

There are four dial colours to choose from – Emerald Green, Stirling Silver, Deep Black, and the Midnight Blue featured here – all crafted from brass. When the light hits the dial, the Midnight Blue springs to life and the colour is rich and deep. In other lights it can almost appear very dark, almost black. The dial has a real radiance to it, thanks to what Rosenbusch describe as a ‘sunburst radial grind’.

Two design elements are deserving of a special mention here. The first is the applied indices used for the hour markers, as I don’t think I’ve ever seen a design like them before. Rounded baton-shaped polished frames surround solid blocks of lume, and both the frame and the lume itself appear to come to an apex. This impressive design is also carried over to the applied indices on the small centre dial (minus lume). Sadly, it’s something that’s very difficult to capture on camera.

The second unusual design element is the secondary inner dial, which brings with it a novel way of tracking the passing seconds. A simple stick seconds hand ticks around a fluted track, which also has tiny, applied indices denoting every five seconds. Think of it like a small-seconds sub dial, but placed centrally on the dial around the pinion. It’s a quirky feature which echoes the shape of the main dial and bezel, but also adds texture and symmetry to the face of the watch.

The hour and minute hands are a simple baton shape, and each has a centre strip of high quality Super-LumiNova BGW9 which glows blue for excellent legibility in low light. BGW9 is also used for the applied hour indices. Dial text is kept simple with just the brand name, applied logo and ‘automatic’. A nicely framed black-on-white date wheel sits at the three o’clock position. Finally, on the outer edge of the dial is a minute track on a colour-matched rehaut, with ‘Made in Germany’ printed at the six o’clock position.

THE MOVEMENT

The Quest RB35 is fitted with the Seiko NH35A automatic movement, which you can hand-wind and hack. This ultra-reliable Japanese movement beats at 21.600vph and has a 41-hour power reserve. Whilst the NH35A is not famed for high levels of accuracy (-20/+40 seconds per day) it’s a great choice to help keep the price down and many buyers will opt for this option. If you love the Quest, but want a more accurate movement, Rosenbusch has got your back, as they also offer The Quest RB200, which is fitted with the Sellita SW200, accurate to +/- 7 seconds per day.

HOW DOES THE QUEST WEAR?

The Quest is certainly a watch with wrist presence. It measures 42mm, is 11.7mm thick and has a lug to lug of 49mm. However, the oval-shaped end links are fixed and protrude slightly from the lugs, so the true maximum span is more like 53mm. The case and end links do have a downturn though, which mitigates this extra length slightly. I’d suggest it’s a watch for medium-large wrists, and in my opinion, it wears true to size or maybe even slightly larger than the dimensions suggest. Sized for my 7 ¼ inch wrist, it weighs 167g.

The stainless-steel bracelet is of excellent quality and features a double fold-over deployant clasp. This will probably be a love it or hate it thing, depending on your preferences. It’s certainly looks great, but it does mean that there are no micro-adjustments. However, on the plus side, half links are supplied, so you should be able to get a pretty good fit. A rubber strap is also included in the price, but this wasn’t part of my review package, so I can’t attest to its quality. The steel bracelet and rubber strap both feature quick-release mechanisms, so you won’t need any tools to swap out as often as you like.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Rosenbusch brings increased competition to the integrated bracelet watch market and The Quest is sure to appeal to those looking for an affordable integrated bracelet style watch. For the Kickstarter price of €469 (€669 at full retail) you’re getting a watch made in Germany with a three-year warranty that offers a good balance of specification and build quality. You get a beautiful dial and reliable movement, nice mix of finishes and some design flourishes which help it stand out from the crowd. Quick release straps are a welcome feature too.

Are there things I’d like to see changed or improved? Yes, of course, as always. From a subjective point of view, I’d love to see a 40mm diameter version. Reducing the case thickness and adding bevelled edges to the bracelet would also bring an extra level of refinement. Finally, whilst the central small seconds design brings a unique aesthetic, from a functional point of view I prefer a full-size centre seconds hand.

If you like the design of The Quest, but you place high accuracy near the top of your list of priorities, you’ll be pleased to hear that Rosenbusch also sell a premium version, called the RB200. The RB200 uses a Sellita SW200 Swiss automatic movement and has an exhibition caseback so you can view the nicely decorated Elaboré grade movement. It also beats at a higher rate, so you’ll get a smoother sweeping seconds hand. Or, if you’re after something more exclusive, then check out The Quest RBX, a limited-edition skeletonised variant!

The post The Quest – Rosenbusch’s Response To The Demand For 70s Style Watches appeared first on 12&60.

The Strider was originally due to be named the Stroller, which is why you’ll still see that name on the prototype’s dial and case back here. A rose by any other name would smell as sweet, but seeing the two names side by side ‘Strider’ definitely feels more purposeful and confident. The final version will also see improved lume, but other than that the watch I’m looking at will be the same as the final one delivered.

If you have seen images of this watch, then you’ll no doubt de struck by the dial. All of the five colour dials (black as seen here, grey, blue, cream and green) feature the same prominent texture, which can either be referred to as Clous de Paris if you’re feeling fancy, or Hobnail if you’re not. I expect that the effect is just as striking on all models, but on the black dial I have had on my wrist the pattern almost looks like carbon fibre at times. The finishing of the dial, along with the hands and applied indices which sit on top, is excellent. Even under magnification it’s very difficult to find any imperfection or even notice a raised area for the logo and name to be printed.

However, it’s actually the case that caught my attention in images. The lugs remind me of my favourite Grand Seiko reference (the SBGX091 if you’re planning to sort your Christmas shopping early this year), but that’s not to suggest Audric had that shape in mind while designing the Strider, nor that everyone will see the similarity. Although I don’t expect the Audric to be finished to the same level as a Grand Seiko, it’s still quite impressive. In addition to the a large brushed area on top of the fixed bezel, the angled and vertical surrounding areas form a 12-sided shape with a high polish.

The complexity doesn’t end there. To come back to the lugs briefly, there are no less than five surfaces that form the transition from the top-most part of the lug to its tip, and those are created by a combination of both soft and crisp edge and a variety of finishes. In a world of complex geometry that all seems to come together harmoniously, the one angle that seems slightly out of place is at the crown. As the crown sits at the apex of two surfaces and isn’t recessed into the case, even when screwed down there is a slight gap either side. I’ve never damaged a crown or stem by getting it caught, so it’s only a minor nagging at the back of my mind.

Inside the Strider is a Swiss automatic movement. This could be either the ETA 2824-2 or the Sellita SW200-1, depending on what is available to Audric. Both movements have pretty much the same spec (which beat at a rate of 28,800 bph, with a power reserve of 38 hours). Whichever movement is in the watch will be in Elabore grade, with blued screws and a signed rotor.

Whereas many new releases fitting loosely into this “sports watch” category have often gravitated to a 39-40mm sweet spot, the Audric has a little more presence. At 42mm in diameter the Strider isn’t overly large, but if the slight trend for sub-40mm watches leaves you frustrated, then this could be a good option. Although weighty at first, I found the Strider very comfortable on the wrist. You’ll see that the underside of the lugs angle down sharply which probably helps a lot with how it wears. The bracelet is constructed and finished to the same high level as the case, with a signed push button clasp to match. Audric indicate that the watch has a HexaDori anti-scratch coating. I have no experience to know just how much this will help the watch to look pristine as it gets worn in daily life, but it can’t be a bad thing.

I have found the bracelet to be such a good match, both for looks and comfort, that I haven’t really considered other strap options. With the sculpted, angular lugs I suspect a right leather strap could work very well, but although the 11.5mm height hasn’t been an issue I suspect a nato or other pass-through strap might make it feel a little top-heavy.

The Audric Strider does a lot of things well. There’s some real beauty to the dial, and the case combines complexity with great finishing. My only reservations are whether Audric are potentially trying to do too much in a watch that could be worn for 95% of occasions. Is the dial too much of an eye-catcher? Are the case angles too complex? Is the case just a little too big? I haven’t quite made my mind up. The Strider will start at $549 when launched on Kickstarter, with a regular price of $849.

• 42mm case diameter
• 48mm lug to lug
• 11.5mm height
• 22mm lug width
• 200m water resistant
• ETA 2824-2 or Sellita SW200-1 movement
• Sapphire crystal with internal AR coating
• C3x1 Superluminova
• Screw down crown
• HexaDori anti-scratch coating

The post Audric Strider Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

Here’s another new release from the British brand; the Regent. It’s a Gerald Genta inspired piece, with definite Patek Phillipe and Audermars Piguet vibes.

Available in either skeleton or solid dial variants, as well as with a leather strap or bracelet, it promises a decent mechanical watch to the masses thanks to Rotary’s impressive high street exposure. Are the masses getting a decent watch for their money? Or are they being duped out of £329? Let’s find out.

The video review

The specs

• Dimensions: 40mm diameter x 11.8mm height x 48mm lug to lug
• Weight: 147g
• Water resistance rating: 10ATM / 100m
• Movement: Miyota 8N24
• Accuracy: +15.2 sec/day
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: £329
• Buy here: https://www.rotarywatches.com/regent/GB05415-04

Coming in at 40mm, it is a very lovely size on my approximate 7” wrist; and the height of 11.8mm is thinner than I was expecting too. It’ll certainly easily fit under a shirt cuff. Those Gerald Genta vibes are strong from the octagon shape case, as well as the flat, vertically brushed bezel.

There’s a lot of polished accents on this watch – I think it’ll start picking up hairline scratches very quickly. The sides of the case have a lovely mirror-like finish, but will get beat up pretty sharpish; the central link in the bracelet will be the same. However, it sure does make it quite flashy and enjoyable to view.

The plain push-pull crown is a bit disappointing, it’s screaming out for a logo or something etched or embossed on the end rather than the very plain brushed finish with nothing going on. It does have a good grip, however, with a rather nice rounded profile.

The bracelet is delightfully unusual, featuring a polished trapezoid central link, interlinking the brushed main links with polished sides. The links naturally curve in a wrist shape, so there’s not too much leeway in how it wears – but thankfully, it seems to be just the right fit. The concealed butterfly clasp is comfortable on the underside of the wrist too, and the over flapping notch has “REGENT” accurately engraved.

Rotary doesn’t specify the movement – but thankfully the model number “8N24” is printed on the rotor, referring to the Miyota 8N24. Specs include a 42 hour power reserve, beat rate of 21.6k bph (6 ticks per second), 21 jewels, and automatic and hand winding capabilities. It looks the part and is a step above the real cheap and cheerful skeletonised mechanical watches available for under £50. Finishing appears to be good and there doesn’t seem to be any kind of muck or dirt around. It doesn’t seem to have been regulated, as it’s coming in at a pretty wild +15.2 seconds a day.

The dial is eye-catching, but can also be problematic to read at a glance. For me, that’s not a problem at all – but I do know that can be of utmost importance for many. I do enjoy the depth that’s provided by the applied frame sitting on top of the movement, which supports the deep hour markers and makes the watch more readable than if it was solely skeletonised. the frame has made a feature out of the exposed balance wheel, with a bordered disc surrounding it which draws the eye.

The pitched hour and minute hands are thick and bold, with a slight dauphine shape to them, but are more sporty than dressy. The finishing is spotless, and the pitched aspect ensures they reflect the light in a way that stands out against the busy backdrop.

The lume is average, but you wouldn’t expect world-beating lume on a dress watch.

Final comments

All in all, it’s quite a tempting proposition. Sure there are cheaper skeleton watches, but it’s always a case of you get what you pay for. You could easily pay £50 for a half-decent Submariner homage, but as soon as you go down the skeleton route, those cheap and cheerful watches just don’t cut the mustard. You can tell when a skeleton watch is cheap. With the Rotary Regent, however, what you’re getting is a very well-built watch with a solid, dependable and nicely finished movement. It does look the part, and the various finishes on the bezel, case, and bracelet give it quite a flashy edge that will appeal to many, and it makes it look rather expensive.

The post Rotary Regent Skeleton Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

Costing a mere $89, it’s a lot cheaper than many alternatives of a similar ilk. I only realised how and why when I started doing some research for this review: it’s not really leather! Wait, hold up?! That’s right – it’s PU leather. When I found that out I can’t deny I was a little disappointed, however – the fact that I couldn’t even tell it wasn’t real leather is a testament to the quality of this thing. And yes, whilst real leather is synonymous with luxurious travel accessories, PU leather is actually extremely hard wearing, so there’s an argument for it being a sensible choice. Let’s check it out.

The specs

• Width: 24cm
• Height: 7.5cm
• Depth: 10cm
• Weight: 360g
• Price: $89 / ~£68
• Buy here: https://www.mirageluxurytravel.com/collections/3-watch-case/products/jade-black-3-watch-case

Mirage claim that their PU leather is as smooth as full-grain leather. I’m not going to argue with that, as it certainly had me fooled.

The interior is quilted with mahogany velvet, which is deliciously smooth to the touch.

Each cushion is designed to fit a watch measuring up to 55mm in diameter, with a max height of 15mm, and a strap or bracelet to fit between 6-8” wrist size. That pretty much caters for everyone and most watches, bar a few really tall diver mechanical chronographs which can exceed 15mm.

The process of removing the cushions is pretty ingenious; each one has two tabs which fit into the channels of the dividers, so you can easy slide them in and out.

These dividers and the outside edges are seriously chunky – providing solid protection for your treasured watches.

4 snap buttons for a case this size is overkill in a positive manner; you know the watches will remain secure in their tiny little beds.

A detailed Mirage logo is engraved into the center of the top flap, done to perfection.

Final comments

I’ve had a quick look on Amazon, and there are a number of 3-watch PU leather travel rolls for much less. HOWEVER, as is always the case with cheap stuff on Amazon – you get what you pay for. So I’d be confident in saying that you;d be able to tell the different comparing one of those £20 watch case and this one by Mirage.

The biggest seller for me is the sliding inner cushions, resulting in exceptionally easy usability. Ususally in watch rolls like this, the cushions are fixed into place with snap buttons, which can be fiddly. The sheer softness of the interior as a whole is another win for me.

The post Mirage Jade Black 3 Watch Roll Review appeared first on 12&60.

Like most watch enthusiasts, I can’t fail to immediately notice that tourbillon.

As complications go, the tourbillon may not be the most difficult to produce, or the most expensive, or even the most useful, but it remains a highly desirable one. When Arbraham-Louis Breguet created the first one in 1795 he solved a very real problem. A watch resting in the same upright position all day long in your waistcoat pocket would be subject to the effects of gravity on the escapement and balance wheel, leading to deviations in the time-keeping. Inside a tourbillon cage, the entire escapement and balance wheel rotate about their axis to ensure all vertical positions are experienced equally. While Haute Horlogerie watchmakers have added a second and even third axes to the tourbillon, its usefulness waned the moment we started to wear watches on our wrists. Our natural daily movements abate the problems that the tourbillon was necessary to solve.

The tourbillon remains an expensive complication though, with the cheapest Swiss offerings starting well in excess of £10,000 so it’s no surprise to see that any affordable tourbillon watch is going to house a Chinese calibre. The Hangzou 3452 is a manual winding, twin-barrel movement which should be good for 80 hours of power reserve on a full wind (I didn’t specifically test this, but know that it was still ticking away 72 hours later) and beats at 28,800 bph. Determining accuracy is a little trickier though, but over the course of 7 days I was able to report the watch had gained less than 30 seconds in total which is plenty good enough for me.

Aside from the tourbillon, the rest of the skeletonised movement is impressively decorated, with the rear of the watch almost as nice as the front.

I’m not always the biggest fan of skeleton watches as the ability to tell the time is often compromised and the watch becomes more a piece of artistry than a functional tool. Legibility is certainly compromised in the case of the Waldhoff Imperial Diamond Silver here, but the distinction of the hands above the swirling patterns of the movement are a lot more pronounced in person than can be appreciated in photographs.

The hands and stick indices are certainly legible in low light when the SuperLuminova glows. The combination of glowing green lume, which appears to applied to the underside of the hands too, and the shadowed patterns of the dial are especially pleasing.

My first impressions of the case were primarily related to its size. At 43mm in diameter and just under 50mm lug to lug it is perhaps slightly bigger than I would like, but then again it’s a bold looking watch. The 14mm thickness of the watch is very noticeable though, especially on the wrist.

It’s only when taking the time to study the case construction than I began to really appreciate it. The top section of the stainless steel frame is surrounded by a slightly bulbous sapphire barrel, with the interestingly shaped lugs arching down to meet the bottom section at the lug tips where they are screwed in place. There are many ways to try to hide the height of a watch, but this idea of encasing it in sapphire to make a feature of it is a new one on me.

The Waldhoff comes on a black calf leather strap with deployant clasp and quick release spring bars. It’s comfortable enough but the very formal look isn’t necessarily to my taste, and a more colourful strap would potentially draw attention away from the watch itself. A tourbillon watch with a skeletonised dial in a sapphire case is going to be a statement piece, and maybe it’s best for the strap to sit quietly in the background.

Although time-telling isn’t difficult, it’s no surprise that a quick glance usually turns into a more lingering look to appreciate the movement. The price of $2,230 (or roughly £1,700 at the time of writing) is more than I’d usually like to spend on a ‘statement’ or ‘conversation’ piece, but as far as tourbillons go you’d be part pressed to find one with as much going on for less money.

Watch the video review:

The post Manufaktur Waldhoff Imperial Diamond Silver Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

It’s clear that in their short history CIGA Design have made quite an impact and looking at their catalogue of products it’s easy to see why. They’ve taken a different approach to watchmaking and design, and it hasn’t held them back at all.

Awards and accomplishments aside, do their watches make sense on an everyday basis and do they provide good value for money or are they just showpieces?

SPECS

• Dimensions: 40.8mm wide
• Thickness: 12.3mm
• Lug width: 22mm
• Lug-to-lug: 48mm
• Case material: DLC coated 316L stainless steel
• Crystal: 1.2mm thick Sapphire
• Dial: Skeletal
• Movement: Seagull ST2553JK
• Power reserve: Quoted up to 40 hrs / tested approximately 53 hrs
• Accuracy: -15/+30 per day
• Jewels: 25
• Water resistance: 30m
• Weight: 90g
• Strap: Standard silicone / Red ltd edition strap / leather strap for first 500 orders
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: £215
• Buy here: https://cigadesign.co.uk/collections/our-watches/products/z-series-dlc

The Z series is unlike any other watch I have had the privilege to get hands-on with during my time on WIAA, but is that a good or bad thing?

Well, the first grabbing attribute has to be the styling, it’s very unorthodox to say the least, but I like it. The immediate thing that draws you in is that the watch is transparent and you can see through most parts of it. This honestly took some getting used to as it’s my first real experience with a skeleton design watch, though I was taken back by the beauty of it all. You can see every little detail including the balance wheel, the jewels in the movement, even when the mainspring is fully wound or unwound and then even right down to the gear train that moves the hands, it’s quite marvellous actually. I mean I appreciated the art of an automatic before experiencing this watch, but now seeing all the minute parts adds a whole new perspective. Just by eye, it looks fantastic, but under macro, you see so much more. I even love the craft that’s gone into the framework, the skeleton of it all – it’s certainly not boring and adds to the complex beauty of it. I get why some dislike this as it somewhat a lot to take in, but I love it. Is it practical for telling the time, nope, not at all.

Enough of the fanboying, why don’t we get a bit more serious. Starting out and working in, we have the minute track and markers; these are nicely-designed and suit the aesthetic, though they are somewhat hard to see at a glance. The squarish nature does little to help matters either which can make telling the time a bit more difficult as you have to stop and look to get an accurate sense of the time. Looking towards the middle you’re greeted with the handset; these are partially skeletonised and feature a red-tipped arrow at the end. There is also a slight arrow of lume which is frankly all but useless as nothing else is lumed, so when they glow, it’s nigh on impossible to tell the time. Admittedly I do like the design of the hands and they perfectly mesh with the scheme, though they do little in the way of helping. The second’s hand is finished in a bright red and does stand out quite nicely – at the end of it, you can see a needle eye counterbalance which again is befitting. And finally, you’ll note the applied Ciga Design logo at the 3 o’clock position.

Honestly, there’s a lot to take in here, and it can be overwhelming and somewhat difficult to tell the time even in the best conditions, yet there’s still something that makes me want to gaze at it, and I can’t say that for many watches around £200. A final thing to note would be that there appears to be some minor dust particles inside the watch as well as a small imperfection in the red portion of the hands. This is more than likely an uncommon issue, though it does somewhat detract from the overall quality.

The heart isn’t the only interesting design element of the watch as the crystal is not dull either. The Sapphire crystal is 1.2mm thick which is impressive in its own right, but that’s not even the best thing about it. The crystal curves ever so slightly with the profile of the watch – flat just wouldn’t have worked here, and I’m glad Ciga have gone the extra mile to make the crystal flow so well with the profile.

There also appears to be some very slight AR coating on the inside of the crystal, though when the movement and hands catch the light, it doesn’t do a deal to reduce the glare from them.

To the case and again this is something full of little flourishes you don’t often see. Starting with the front, the first thing that takes you in is the exposed polished cube design elements, these don’t appear to have any function in terms of structure, but they do look pretty cool, and they tie in with a common theme which you’ll see further down in the review. These cube elements are set into two curved cut-outs in the case that allow you to see all the way through, again not necessary, but just another factor that adds to the coolness of this watch. Via these slits, you can also see part of the crown stem which is a design element all on its own. The top section is also very nicely brushed, which is done to a good standard. I’m also a fan of how the designers managed to blend the curves of the side of the case with the more angular components between the lugs, this is hard to do, but they pulled it off very well. For me, it just works, but I get not everyone will be a fan. One last thing to mention is that the case finish does pick up dust and lint quite easily, as well as showing fingerprints so keep that in mind as it can become a chore to keep clean.

4A

The right-hand side of the case is where you’ll find some very robust crown guards which are integrated into the side of the watch. These are then flanked by more of those shiny cubes. This is probably my only gripe with the design, and I think these two are probably not needed as they upset the balance somewhat. I think here they should have perhaps DLC coated them, so they blended rather than stood out so much. The crown is a simple push-pull affair and is signed as well as featuring a nicely knurled grippy texture which makes it easy to use. The guards don’t impact the crowns use either which is a big win.

On the left-hand side of the case, you’ll find some stealthy branding that in certain light you can’t see, but in the right light it stands out nicely. The design pattern mimics the crown guards without them being integrated there. The branding appears to be slightly embossed on a sand/bead blasted portion. It’s hard to describe, but it looks great and has a nice tactile feel. That isn’t all as Ciga has taken things up a notch with a carbon coating that adds an extra layer of durable protection as well as looking stunning too. This is achieved with a DLC (Diamond-like) coating on the watch head.

4B

To the back of the watch and here you’ll find a flat piece mineral crystal that acts a viewing window to see the rear side of the Seagull movement and the custom DLC coated rotor. The caseback is held in via four screws and features a similar finish to that found on the front of the case. You’ll also find some nicely engraved information on the watch.

Ciga’s movement of choice is the Seagull ST2553JK which is a 25 jewel movement that has a beat rate of 21600/hour, a hacking seconds, automatic and manual winding as well as a quoted power reserve of 40 hours. The accuracy is stated between -15/+30 seconds per day, and it’s easily within this tolerance. The big surprise here was the power reserve, the quoted time of up to 40 hours is great, though during testing it lasted closer to 53 hours when fully wound. That is pretty impressive as most barely manage 30 to 40 hours at this price point. The other great experience with this is watching it wind, usually, with a manually winding watch, all the components are hidden, whereas if you flip the watch and look at the back, you can see the cogs and gears turn as they wind up the mainspring, it’s quite a sight to behold. As for the winding, it feels reassuringly solid, and there is plenty of audible, tactile and visual feedback, yes you can see the spring tighten as you wind which means you can never really overwind the watch. In use, setting the time feels and looks great, you get some nice feedback that feels smooth and not grating, the hands turn smoothly and quickly yet not too freely, it’s just about bang on. As there is no date you only get two positions. One is pushed in and this allows you to manually wind the watch, the second is pulled out which hacks the seconds and allows you to set the time, it’s quite straight forward.

With the Z Series, you get a selection of straps. The main strap is a black silicone that has the same cube design as you’ll find throughout the watch. The second is a red silicone strap (only available for the first 300 orders, all are gone already sadly) which looks fantastic – and pretty funky, yet it has this weird texture inside: I didn’t so much like that. The build is great, however, the inner texture just didn’t do anything for me. The third and final strap is a leather one that is only available for the first 500 orders. The leather strap isn’t that great actually: it’s a black faux croc and feels a bit stiff and plasticky. Honestly, out of the three, the black silicone is the best of the selection, and that is what I used the most. The black silicone features the aforementioned cube pattern like the rest of the watch, but they’ve again gone a bit extra as the adjustment holes line up with the top of each cube, this little attention to detail is something you’d expect on higher-end watches let alone one under £250. It doesn’t stop there either as you’ll see an even more complex design inside the strap along with some quick release spring bars. The top section of the strap features the branding, two floating silicone keepers and a signed black buckle. Like the case, the strap is somewhat of a dirt and lint magnet as it gets easily stuck in the gaps and to the surface. Bit of a shame as the strap looks dirty most of the time. All in all – minus the dust/lint issue, the main strap feels well made, looks cool, but is it comfortable?

Well, it’s a mixed bag. The watch head is comfortable for me thanks to the short lugs, profile and weight, although does tend to sit on top of my wrist rather than conforming to it. It’s still comfortable though. The strap, however, is a different story. The strap silicone is nice and soft, smooth on the inside and very flexible, but for my wrist size (6”/15.4cm) it just doesn’t fit nicely. One adjustment is too loose, and the other is a bit too tight, there’s no happy medium for me though that would more than likely be different in your case. During wear, I noticed that the first few hours were okay but after three or so, it started to become a bit more bothersome, plus it gets quite hot too which is not so bad in the UK, but in warmer climates might be a bigger issue.

Strap options are sort of limited too, single pass and natos are likely not to work very well as the lugs are set high in respect to the caseback meaning they may fit, though would likely not be all that comfortable. So that leaves you with two-piece natos, silicone or leather, luckily it’s got 22mm lugs so strap options are aplenty and you may need to look at another option if you have a similar experience to me.

To sum up, I’m a fan, though that aside this watch is far from perfect. Starting with the time telling issue; this could be a big deal-breaker depending on what you want and need. There’s then the few design elements that I wasn’t so keen on, and finally, two of the bundled straps didn’t do anything for me in terms of comfort, but I can’t deny that the red one looks great. So some of these issues are a matter of preference, and one is likely not going to impact you though if it does, it’s an easy problem to fix. The big main issue for me is the legibility across the board. In the daytime, it’s hard enough to read at a glance, and when it gets dark, it’s almost impossible. Another minor complaint is the dust and lint build-up that happens quite often on both the case and strap. Not deal-breaking bad, but it can be tiresome trying to keep it looking pristine.

On the flip side, I love the design, the attention to detail is pretty stellar for this price point, and there’s honestly a design cohesion that you just don’t see that often. Yeah, there are a few things to nitpick, but you have to admit that they’ve taken a not uncommon design, and made it their own, then carried that theme throughout and made it work. Very few can claim to do the same. However, that doesn’t take away from the primary purpose, to tell the time and sadly it falls hard.

Yet, I still want to wear it and admire all the details. So great at time telling it might not be, but it sure is a fascinating piece and a definite conversation starter.

The post Ciga Design Z Series Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

When they reached out for me to check out the D1 Milano X-ray, I certainly was intrigued. I mean, just look at it – it still boasts that GG style, but with a very modern take.

The question is, is it worth it at €630? Let’s check it out.

The specs

• Dimensions: 41.5mm diameter x 11mm height x 48.5mm lug to lug
• Weight: 157g
• Water resistance rating: 5ATM / 50m
• Movement: Seiko NH70
• Accuracy: +10.1 sec/day
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: €630 / £575
• Buy here: https://eu.d1milano.com/collections/man/products/skeleton-bracelet-41-5-mm-xray

The video review

The case

The case heavily features the curvaceous yet angular approach of Audemars Piguet, in a full black IP coating. It’s certainly eye-catching with its primary brushed finish and polished edges of the bezel.

The size is very wearable on my approx 7” wrist; I’m not usually happy to keep a watch on all day at work at my desk, but I’m happy to do so with this watch. An 11mm height is surprisingly slender taking into account the dial so it easily fits under a cuff or sleeve, and is right at home in a suit.

The sapphire crystal is very clear, offering a great view of the “X-ray” dial.

The hexagonal screw-in crown offers excellent grip and is easy to use. It has a neat bevelled edge which is impressively machined.

The caseback is all about the exhibition window; it’s secured in place with 8 screws with a radial brush from the centre.

There’s a neat engraved and painted message on the underside of one of the lugs; with the serial number and “Italian design” and “Japanese movement”.

One thing that intrigues me is the fact that it’s only 50m water resistance – with a screw-in crown and well-secured caseback you’d assume it could be better rated, but I guess it’s not the kind of watch that you’d swim in anyway.

The dial

Let’s face it, the watch it all about the dial. Utilising the skeletonisation of the movement, the open heart / balance wheel on show at 9 is your primary focus due to the intriguing applied overlay.

However, whilst it very much a talking point of the watch; it’s also its biggest flaw. The legibility is pretty terrible. The matte finish on the black pitched hands and similar hour markers are fantastic, but used on top of a busy and dark dial makes it exceedingly difficult to read at a glance. I have pretty good vision, and I struggle to read it without paying close attention. If you can live with that, then no worries – and the dial is still awesome – but it’s a key issue that needs to be raised.

I like the way the D1 Milano and “automatic” is printed on the underside of the crystal, creating a floating effect. This also adds to the insane depth of the entire viewing experience due to the wheel volume of different layers, levels and details on the dial.

The bracelet

Another star of the show is the bracelet. I was really impressed with it on the Ultra Thin, and this is the same. Thin and short links mean it fits well on the wrist – with excellent contouring properties.

There’s such a copious amount of facets and angles due to the number of links and their bevelling, it’s a real joy to behold in the light. Every single angle offers a different view.

The wearability of the bracelet is increased by the concealed butterfly clasp; the only visible representation of it is the flap on one side which sits over the other, with a very neat engraving of the logo.

The movement

The movement powering the D1 Milano Xray is the Seiko NH70. It’s not a movement I come across very often at all, mainly due to the fact it’s used for its skeletonisation properties and style.

Specs include a beat rate of 21.6k bph (6 ticks per second), 24 jewels, Côtes de Genève decorated rotor, hacking seconds, automatic and hand winding, and a 42-hour power reserve.

This one is coming in at +10.1 sec/day, which is just about acceptable for me.

Final comments

There’s no denying it, this watch oozes class and is a hard 10 on the scale of coolness (if that existed). The build quality is brilliant, and it’s such an easy wear.

However, its greatest flaw is legibility. Black hands on a dark and detailed dial make it difficult to read at a glance. So, it’s all down to whether you can live with that.

If you can, then it’s a lovely watch in a style that is difficult to find in the affordable watches circuit. The Gerald Genta / Audemars Piguet character alongside the skeleton vibe is one that’s sure to please.

The post D1 Milano Xray Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

That’s where the new G-Steel range comes into play, with a steel construction and carbon core guard structure. You thought standard G-Shocks are tough? This is on a whole other level.

On top of that, it’s got many tricks up its sleeve: solar power, 200m WR, bluetooth connectivity, dual time, timer, stopwatch, alarm.

Costing £349, the price may come as a bit of a (G-)shock, but it’s certainly a lot of watch. Let’s check it out.

Buy it here: https://tidd.ly/3qgWVgQ

G-Shock G-Steel GST-B100 Video Review

The post G-Shock G-Steel GST-B100 Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

So fast forward and now I’ve spent some time with the Boettger and got to know it a little better. How did I get on?

Well, let’s start with the basics as I said at the start this watch didn’t immediately strike me as a Spinnaker it has a very clean sharp look that is quite simple in terms of finish and details. I usually find Spinnaker heavily stylise their watches, but this version of the Boettger the SP-5083-33 has a very dark grey dial no textured finish no sunburst just mat dark grey. The indices are simple with a triangle for the noon position, batons for the six and nine and the simple circular markers for hours in between. The raised outer track holds the minutes and the dial script simply has the Spinnaker name nicely printed in silver to match the indices surrounds and hands. just above the six position Automatic is printed in crisp white and just below that 1000ft 300m printed in dark red. The hands are in silver and an interesting mix of maybe the original Sinn style with a touch of Mercedes for the hour hand. It was an interesting design choice to change the hour hand, and while legibility is excellent just in part to the large size, it does throw off the dial a little in terms of balance.

The dial also has a date complication with a white framed window and a black date wheel, so it fits in with the dark grey dial nicely. The attraction of this dial I think for most people will be the fact that the indices appear to be floating. A smart trick on Spinnakers part to put a twist on a reasonably austere dial. The indices are attached against the side of the chapter ring, which means the hands pass under the indices. It’s definitely a fascinating approach to the dial and gives it a real depth, especially when looking at any angle other than directly at the dial. Although Spinnaker isn’t the first to use this design method, it’s certainly not something you see very often!

The case and bezel are mainly brushed stainless steel with the crown for time and date adjustments sitting at the four o’clock position. The bezel action is 120 click unidirectional and has a satisfying click with little back play in operation. Sapphire crystal sits on top of the dial as you would expect from a serious diver. This isn’t a small watch at 42mm in diameter and 13mm thick it carries some wrist presence. Lug to lug is measured at just a hair under 50mm which could be an issue for some with smaller wrists. The case is described as lugless due to the integrated bracelet design, but in reality, there is no articulation in the first links either side of the case, and this causes two issues. Firstly it could provide an awkward fit due to the initial steep angle of those first links, and secondly, there is no way to change the bracelet as it’s an integrated style. So be aware of this if you’re considering purchasing and try it on for size if possible. Thankfully if you find it fits well which I think it should for most, and you have no issues with the integrated style then its a very nicely made bracelet with a very fine brushed finish and a taper from 26mm at the case to 20mm at the clasp. The clasp provides you three micro adjustments and a divers extension should you need to get this over a wetsuit.

Inside the Boettger sits the Miyota 9015 which has 24 jewels and operates at 28,800bph. This movement has a power reserve of 42hrs, and During my time with it, I didn’t notice any issues with timekeeping. It operated within the stated tolerance of -10+30 seconds a day. The Miyota is an automatic movement that’s used by several other brands. It is only 3.9mm thick, which may be one of the reasons Spinnaker used this movement to keep the watch as thin as possible while still getting the dramatic floating dial style.

So overall as a standalone piece from Spinnaker I think this one is an interesting offering, and it’s good to see them taking a different design path from the usual. I hope they continue trying things like this. I’m sure this will appeal to a lot of people as an overall package and design thanks to the evident Sinn influence. So what don’t I like? Well, I wish they hadn’t opted for the integrated bracelet. It does limit strap choices, and while this may just be my personal preference, I think because of the size of the watch and steep downward angle of the first links it may mean some people with smaller or much larger wrists struggle to get a fit they are comfortable with.

Secondly, I’m not sure about the hands. The more I wore the Boettger, the more I got used to them, but I do think they are slightly out of proportion and it’s a shame because I really enjoyed the rest of the dial aesthetically.

Spinnaker was aiming for a serious deep-sea diver that draws its design inspiration from the 70s and 80s, and with the Boettger that meant things needed to be done design-wise on a larger scale. I guess in the end it’s up to you to decide if that larger-scale works for your tastes and your wrist? If the answer to those questions is yes, then I don’t think you will be disappointed with this one on your wrist.

• Price: £500 – use code WIAA20 for 20% off, making it £400
• Buy here: https://spinnaker-watches.co.uk/collections/boettger/products/sp-5083-33

The post Spinnaker Boettger Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

These two models are very similar in construction – the differences being the dial and bezel insert, and both pose different questions. Whilst both boast vintage vibes; you may prefer the slightly more traditional vintage Tudor snowflake sub influence of the Näcken, or the slightly more out-there Tikuna – which takes inspiration from vintage UG Polerouters, the Longines Legend Diver, and some other vaguely sci-fi-looking stuff from the ’70s.

Whilst which one you prefer is down to personal choice, one thing’s for sure – these are built to last, in a beautiful manner. Let’s check them out.

The specs

• Dimensions: 40mm diameter x 11.5mm height x 48mm lug to lug
• Weight: 144g
• Water resistance rating: 30ATM / 300m
• Movement: Miyota 9015
• Accuracy: Näcken: +9.0 sec/day; Tikuna: -11.6 sec/day
• Lug width: 20mm
• Warranty: 2 years, 6+6 guarantee (6 weeks to return watches for a full refund, net of shipping costs; and
• guarantees the movement for 6 years from the watch’s date of production)
• Price: US$650.00
• Buy here:
  • Näcken: https://nthwatches.com/collections/subs/products/nacken-vintage-black
  • Tikuna: https://nthwatches.com/collections/subs/products/tikuna

The video review

The case

First thing’s first – the size of these cases fit so well on the wrist. Not only is 40mm a real sweet spot for vintage-inspired divers, but also the slender height of 11.5mm is a joy to have strapped on. Divers (especially those rated over 200m) so often measure over 12mm, and you’ll be surprised the difference just the smallest amount makes.

The shape is a lean barrel, with down-turned lug tips which hug the wrist well. The finishing is spotless and rivals watches much more than the Nth subs; it’s primarily brushed with a polished ridge along the top and bottom edges. The drilled-through lugs offer quick and painless strap removal, as well as a vintage vibe.

The watches are loaded with a smooth 120-click uni-directional bezel, which is a joy to use. All of the inserts are either DLC or PVD; if it’s black or some shade of dark grey, it’s DLC. Otherwise, it’s PVD. In either case, Chris informs me it’s the thickest (and highest quality) application Nth can get. The toothed grip of the bezel is stupendously machined: clean, crisp edges and perfect finishing.

The crown is another lovely aspect of the case. It has the Nth logo deeply set within the end – and yep – it’s lumed. The lack of crown guards is another vintage nod. The shape is on the flat side, which sits neat and flush to the case; a good thing as there are no crown guards present. It has great grip, has a smooth thread, and feels solid in the hand.

The screw-in caseback is a simple, no-frills affair – polished outer ridge surrounding a brushed flat disc, with the logo and 3 specifics rotating around the centre.

The double domed sapphire crystal provides a clear view of the dial at even the sharpest angles. Whilst it does have an anti-reflective coating, it is still a little bit reflective.

The dial(s)

This is clearly the primary difference between these two watches.

The Näcken is a “safer” option, taking clear cues from Tudor’s snowflake sub. The traditional snowflake hands and the accompanying hour markers are a tried and tested design which works great.

I love the textured base of the dial, which catches the light so gently and peacefully. I’m also a sucker for a date window at 6, as it keeps the dial symmetrical. The gentle border around the window is neatly executed and is a subtle addition.

Whilst the Näcken can be classed a bit of an homage; the Tikuna, on the other hand, is certainly more out-there with a unique style. If you check out vintage UG Polerouters and the Longines Legend Diver, you’ll see the inspiration. Chris’s description of “and some other vaguely sci-fi-looking stuff from the 70’s” fits well; whether it’s the red lines, unusual hands, or extravagant hour markers, there’s something about it that takes you back 50 years.

The strength of the Superluminova lume is unreal. I asked Chris Vail how and why it’s so darn good, and he said it’s simple: a good application makes a big difference, and that’s plain to see here. It’s so fast to charge, glows so bright, and lasts all night, despite being a type of lume that sounds many other brands use.

Legibility is therefore excellent: not only due to the bold designs but the lume strength too.

The bracelet

Whilst the build quality of the bracelet is precise, visually I feel I would have preferred the width of the central link to be wider, with thinner outer links. However, that’s my personal preference, and it won’t stop me from wearing the watch. The bracelet is 20mm wide at the lugs, tapering down to 18mm at the clasp which fits well on the wrist.

The finishing of the bracelet is completely brushed, which will hold up valiantly against scratches. The side profile of each link is sort of grain of rice-shaped; which means it’s soft and comfortable on the wrist as it moulds around it.

The fully brushed double-locking diver’s clasp is sturdy and reassuringly secure. The angular top flap features the Nth logo neatly engraved, and 6 micro-adjustment positions ensure you can get a perfect fit.

The movement

The movement powering the Nth Näcken and Tikuna is the prevalent Miyota 9015. It seems to be the go-to movement for non-Swiss brands who want an affordable decent high-beat automatic. There’s little wonder too, as they are consistent, solidly dependable, and boast all the same specs as the ETA or Sellita equivalent.

They’re a bit ugly, but that’s not an issue here due to the closed casebacks.

The specs are as follows: a high beat rate of 28.8k bph (8 ticks a second), 42 hours power reserve, 24 jewels, hacking seconds, as well as hand and automatic winding capabilities.

Final comments

In the outset, I eluded to the quality of the Nth subs cases. Whilst some may shrug it off, the quality of the case, bezel, and crown are genuinely class-leading. Beautiful construction and finishing to rival watches costing much more, as well as insane lume which is also some of the best I’ve seen on a microbrand make the Nth Näcken & Tikuna the real-deal: a serious diver that’s built to last. This is exemplified when you consider the impressive 2-year warranty and 6+6 guarantee (6 weeks to return watches for a full refund, net of shipping costs; and guarantees the movement for 6 years from the watch’s date of production).

The Näcken is the safer choice, whilst the Tikuna is a more unmistakable design. Either way, you’re sure to get a superb watch that will last.

The post Nth Näcken & Tikuna Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.