In addition to its cool, minimalist Bauhaus styling, the straps and dials are produced in small factories in southern Germany, where the entire assembly and quality control are also carried out. Don’t assume that because it says “Made in Germany” means it has to be constructed under the same stringent laws as “Swiss Made”. So this watch likely has a case made in China (some Swiss brands even do), but it’s good that they’ve specified the German-made aspects.

Let’s check it out.

The specs

• Dimensions: 42.5mm diameter x 10mm height x 49mm lug to lug
• Weight: 82g
• Water resistance rating: 5ATM / 50m
• Movement: Sellita SW200
• Accuracy: +11 sec/day
• Lug width: 20mm
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: £429 / €499
  • Code WIAA40 = £40 / €40 discount code
• Buy here: https://www.lilienthal.berlin/uk/zeitgeist-silver-silver-grey?c=17

The video review

The case

Whilst at a glance the diameter of 42.5mm sounds large, it wears smaller due to the concealed crown and svelte lugs. The case is very simple in design and execution, but simple design is not always easy.

The overall flow of the case is simple – a pure barrel with equally inset bezel and caseback, with elegantly downturned lugs.

The finishing is a dull matte, which is quite industrial and rather Germanic; I personally really like it.

The crown is shaped like the Berlin Weltzeituhr (World Clock) with multiple facets. It’s very cleverly hidden away whilst pushed in to keep a clean circle. I’m not going to lie, it does make it a bit difficult to use due to its slender nature – and if you enjoy hand-winding your watch then you can forget it. There’s a funky rubber ring in the centre which is unexpected.

The exhibition caseback is secured in place by 4 screws – again, simple in appearance but effortlessly cool. Various specifics are deeply engraved surrounding the exhibition window.

The dial

The dial is one of the parts entirely produced in South Germany, which is an impressive point. Nothing is applied, which aids the stark, minimal appearance. All details are printed, and the key focus the eye is drawn to tends to be the date window at 6 and the circular channel etched into the dial, which is split into quarters.

The metallic galvanized dial is matte-blasted with a light grey colour, which in itself is reminiscent of concrete and the industrial vibe of the watch. It also goes well with the steel case and colour of the strap.

The font used for the numerals is the same used on Berlin’s road signs and are classically Bauhaus in style. Love it or hate it, you can’t deny it’s an influential and uniquely beautiful design style.

The hour and minute hands are simple pencil shapes, with a thin lumed central channel. The second’s hand produces a lovely splash of colour; specifically named “Serenity Blue” – the colour of the “blue hour”, the special fleeting moment that marks the transition from day to night.

The date window at 6 has a small radius to the corners, and the wheel is reasonably deep-set. It’s a shame the wheel isn’t the same colour as the grey dial but I’m not surprised.

The strap

The strap is delightful – it’s one of my favourite straps I’ve handled for a very long time. This is another item which is handcrafted in Germany, and it’s obvious that it has had special consideration.

The quality is clear upon closer inspection. Beautifully soft, supple yet thick; and a gorgeous grey colour to match the case and dial. Quick-release pins are an added bonus. The light “serenity blue” stitching detail at the top by the lugs compliments the seconds hand well and introduces a lovely splash of colour.

The tang buckle is a pleasant rounded shape and is finished the same as the case. Sadly and rather surprisingly, no logo is engraved on the top bar; but you know what these minimalists are like.

The movement

The movement powering the Lilienthal Berlin Zeitgeist is the immensely popular Sellita SW200. It’s more or less a direct clone of the ubiquitous ETA 2824-2 but more readily available. Therefore, it’s the go-to for many brands who want a seriously reliable Swiss automatic movement.

Specs include a high beat rate of 28.8k bph (8 ticks per second), ~40-hour power reserve, hacking second hand, auto and hand winding capabilities.

The Zeitgeist has a very smart customised rotor – a deep, dark grey with the logo engraved on it; a stark contrast to the rest of the watch being a much lighter grey. It certainly draws the eye and helps it stand out.

Final comments

The Bauhaus style is certainly for a certain type of person: primarily for those who are particularly into design.

If you like the style, then the Lilienthal Berlin Zeitgeist is a great looking, solid watch. The specs are on point; the build quality is spot on. Plus it has that German touch which makes it all the more industrial and efficient.

The post Lilienthal Berlin Zeitgeist Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

Not only does it looks great, the specs are up there too – mainly due to the Sellita SW200-1, a rugged, Swiss Made automatic which is loaded with a custom rotor. There’s a minor niggle at a glance: the K1 hardened mineral crystal rather than a sapphire. Let’s take a closer look to see if we can overlook that.

Video review

The specs

• Dimensions: 40mm diameter x 11mm height x 44mm lug to lug
• Weight: 63g
• Water resistance rating: 3ATM / 30m
• Movement: Sellita SW200-1
• Accuracy: +7.1 sec/day
• Lug width: 20mm
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: €699 / £620 / $815
• Buy here:
  • Dufa site: https://www.deutsche-uhrenfabrik.de/collections/bayer-automatic-swiss-9016/products/bayer-automatic-swiss-df-9016-03
  • Amazon: https://amzn.to/2OnuGc0

The case

The case comes in at a 40mm diameter and feels the perfect size on. It wears much smaller, thanks to the curvaceous rear – the bulbous shape of the case means that the caseback is smaller than the top, and thus less is in contact with the wrist. The rose gold finishing throughout is spotless, and much more sumptuous than I imagined.

There’s a very thin bezel; the dial does most of the talking. The case is primarily polished, with a small brushed ring at the outermost edge; at the base of the bezel. This will prove to be quite functional as it will provide some protection to minor knocks and scratching. It also breaks up the design / construction of the case and catches the eye.

The caseback continues the flow from the rear of the case, where an exhibition window showcases the movement and has details engraved around the outside.

Sitting on top of the case is a K1 hardened mineral crystal. As I mentioned previously, this is quite the travesty considering how everything else is so splendid, and the fact that the watch has an RRP of €699. It’s double domed, so there’s no distortion at the tightest angles, and the blue anti-reflective coating is very effective indeed.

The push-pull crown is really easy to use, and has a very accurate Dufa logo engraved on the end.

The dial

There’s a porcelain base to the dial, with a reflective surface that catches the light well.

What’s really lovely and clever is the channel within the dial, and how the hour markers are bridged over it. There are numerals at 12, 2, 4, 6 8, and 10 – whilst all the others are batons. These are excellently manufactured with a neatly brushed finishing.

The applied logo is equally as accurately and impressively crafted, despite being delicately designed. I really love it when an applied logo is decent quality and I’m pleased to see it here.

The printing across the dial is fine and minimal – I like the rehaut with a gentle texture to it at a higher level providing a deep depth to the entire dial.

The date window is circular with a matching white date wheel. It has a lower border which is a lovely bit of detail, whilst keeping it simple.

The hands are super simple straight sticks with a small pointed tip. They are blued (possibly chemically as up close they have some spots on) which provides a splash of colour to the dial, working well with the rose gold through the dial and case. They are very thin, and because of this, it’s quite easy to confuse the seconds and minute hand at a glance, so legibility is effected and makes way for nice design.

The strap

The strap is made of vegetable-tanned Italian leather. It’s lovely and supple, and obviously good quality whilst you’ve got it strapped on.

It’s a sumptuous dark, chocolate brown colour with matching stitching, complimenting the rose gold case to a tee.

There are curved ends to fit the crescent of the case, which is visually seamless. The strap is also loaded with quick release pins so it’s easy to replace if you want.

The buckle is the same as usual for Dufa, with an angular polished top bar which has the badge logo applied on top. It’s really delicate and great quality in terms of manufacture.

The movement

The movement powering the Dufa Bayer is the Sellita SW200-1, which is basically a new full-Swiss alternative to the classic ETA 2824-2. It has all the usual specs you’d expect: 28.8k bph (8 ticks per second), 38 hours power reserve, 26 jewels, hand and automatic winding, and a hacking seconds hand. I believe it’s the standard grade used, as the bridges aren’t particularly well finished – no pearlage or Geneva stripes to be found.

What is cool, however, is the custom rotor – with a beautiful gold brushed base to match the case. The black section looks to be a sticker, with the Dufa lettering applied as gold leaf or similar. It’s very striking and looks great when you flip the watch over.

Final comments

I can honestly say that the Bayer is well and truly the best Dufa yet. It looks that great on the wrist that it’s easy to overlook the K1 hardened mineral crystal. The design is impeccable, and it oozes quality from every facet.

I personally probably wouldn’t pay the full RRP, but often Deutsche Uhrenfabrik watches are available for less than the RRP so I’m sure you can get it lower than the €699 price tag. Either way, if you were to go for one – you seriously will not be disappointed.

The post Deutsche Uhrenfabrik (Dufa) Bayer Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

As I work in design, it’s interesting to understand the reasoning behind this – in fact, my colleague who heads up design at the agency I develop websites for is currently sipping tea out of a mug with these same coloured shapes. They signify Wasilly Kandinsky’s test in 1923 – one of the founders of the Bauhaus movement. He asked what colours should relate to each shape, and this was the result: yellow triangle, blue circle, red square. It’s also a vital reminder to all designers to keep things as simple as possible.

Anyway, history lesson over – let’s take a look at the watch to see if it’s a decent purchase at $409 / £305.

The specs

• Dimensions: 41.5mm diameter x 10.4mm height x 51mm lug to lug
• Weight: 56g
• Water resistance rating: 3ATM / 30m
• Movement: Seiko TMI VH88
• Lug width: 22mm
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: $409 / £305
• Buy here: https://www.deutsche-uhrenfabrik.de/collections/weimar-calendar-df-9019/products/df-9019-03

The case

The case features slender lines and a flowing profile, with long elegant lugs.

It has a thin polished bezel and underside, and brushed lugs (bar polished shoulders) with a brushed channel throughout the case. The case is smaller on the underside, so it wears smaller than the 41.5mm diameter.

The crown is small and easy to use; with good grip and sits just right on the wrist. It has the Dufa badge logo engraved on the end which is remarkably defined for the size of it.

The push-on caseback contains the true example of the Wasilly Kandinsky test, with the coloured shapes in the centre. They appear to be engraved out and then filled with paint, which is a surprisingly high level of finish. The Dufa logo is located above these shapes and various specifics surround both in an engraved channel.

The dial

The other obvious homage to Wasilly Kandinsky’s Bauhaus test is found in the dial design and construction – an engraved circle encompasses the retrograde day indicator, a square around the 24hr subdial and an angled triangle behind them both.

The applied numerals at 12 and 6 are in a sublime Bauhaus font – tall and thin. They are nice and thick in construction too, displaying high quality materials.

The applied badge logo at 4 is also very nicely manufactured – it is also thick, as well as being accurately and delicately detailed.

The main minute and hour hands are simple points with a very shallow pitch. I love how the long minute hand stretches out to the edge of the dial, and turns down into the slight convex edging – another really splendid touch. The subdial hands are all plain and straightforward points, but nothing more complicated is required on a watch with a design like this.

The German words “kehren aus zweiter” appear in the edge between 12 and 2, which means “sweeping second” – referring to the movement (more on that later).

The strap

The strap is blue with the same colour stitching to match the dial. With a lug width of 22mm it’s quite imposing and wider than you’d expect; much likely due to modern influence.

The leather is soft enough but not outstanding quality for a watch costing £305. The strap does come with quick release pins, which are always a good addition.

The tang buckle is pleasantly shapely and is the same for all Dufas; brushed flanks and a polished top bridge with the badge logo neatly sitting on top.

The movement

The movement powering the Dufa Weimar Calendar is the TMI VH88. Time Module are part of the Seiko Group, and this movement is one of their “VH Sweep Second Quartz Series”. The unusual thing about this watch? It’s quartz, and it has a sweeping second hand. I’ve counted the sweep to be 4 ticks per second, so whilst it’s not as nice a sweep as a mechanical (usually 6 or 8), it’s still rather unusual to have. It has the sweeping charm of a mechanical, but the accuracy and maintenance-free “set and forget” nature of a quartz.

The movement has a 2 year battery life and 2 jewels, and the retrograde day indicator is a pleasant alternative to the norm.

Final comments

This is a timepiece that’s sure to appeal to designers out there. The obvious nod to Wasilly Kandinsky’s test is a good way to attract those who have a serious interest in Bauhaus – and in reality, it’s hard to get more Bauhaus than the Deutsche Uhrenfabrik Weimar Calendar.

As a timepiece as a whole, it’s a lovely watch that’s for sure. It’s a shame it’s not a sapphire crystal, but as far as looks go, it’s very striking indeed. The case profile, dial design and fit and finish is sure to impress.

However, I do think the RRP of $409 / £305 might be a bit steep for this watch. It’s quartz powered after all (albeit a quartz with a smooth sweep), and although they claim to be German Made I’m still a bit dubious about that. Saying that, if you can find this at a reduced price then I’d highly recommend it, as Dufa have done their best job yet just in terms of a true Bauhaus inspired timepiece.

The post Deutsche Uhrenfabrik (Dufa) Weimar Calendar Bauhaus (DF-9019-03) Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

Let’s look a bit closer at the DuFa Aalto to see if it’s worth the RRP of €499 / £435.

The specs

• Dimensions: 42mm diameter x 12mm height x 49mm lug to lug
• Weight: 64g
• Water resistance rating: 30m / 3ATM
• Movement: Miyota 8217
• Accuracy: +5.2 s/d
• Lug width: 20mm
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: €499 / £435
• Buy here: https://www.deutsche-uhrenfabrik.de/collections/aalto-automatic-9017/products/aalto-automatic-regulator-df-9017-01

The case

The case as a whole comprises of a pleasant bulbous, graceful form. Looking at it from the side, it has a rounded profile that encapsulates a smooth and slick form from the rounded crystal all the way through to the exhibition caseback.

Delicate, thin lugs protrude.

The swollen exhibition caseback is secured with 4 screws and shows off the movement well. Watch specifics surround the window, deeply and accurately engraved.

The push-pull crown is the perfect size for winding and setting; the grip is good too to match. On the end is the Dufa badge engraved neatly and accurately.

The dial

The dial is certainly in line with Dufa’s ethos – vintage Bauhaus inspired. There’s an interesting brushed appearance to the base of the dial, providing a small amount of texture – but only up close.

The Dufa logo is an applied badge at 12, and for me really makes the dial. It’s the only applied element on there, but it’s just enough to make an impression. It’s deep, accurately machined and achieves creating an impact.

The most annoying thing about the watch is the hour indicator at 9. The whole purpose of this timepiece is to be a regulator; that’s how it’s marketed obviously – where each hand is split into separate subdials. Therefore, you’d expect the hour hand to still behave as normal – with a rotation every 12 hours. However, they have just used a 24 hour indicator in place. This obviously behaves differently – it rotates once every 24 hours instead of every 12 hours… meaning you can’t glance at the dial and read it as normal. I’ve found I’ve managed to get used to it, but it’s still not quite the same and for the amount you’re paying, you’d expect a proper regulator.

The time here is 12:56, not 6:56 as you’d expect

The Aalto has splendid, elegant, long hands. The minute hand curves downwards at the tip to follow the dip around the edge of the dial which is a delicate feature.

The strap

The leather strap is on the thinner than average side to go with the retro theme. But, don’t let the slender figure of the strap deceive you – it truly is lovely, high quality and delightfully supple. It has attractive printing on the back as far as embossing goes (I though it looked cool enough to mention). The leather has a matte finish, which I much prefer to a glossy patent alternative.

The strap is very comfortable when wearing, and as it is plain black with matching stitching it suits the watch in general just fine. It also has the addition of quick release pins, which in my opinion should be included on every watch – this will ensure quick and easy strap changes.

The strap has an interesting and shapely tang buckle; a sort of triangular top bar with the logo applied and set within a badge on top. It’s an exhibit of close attention to detail by Dufa.

The movement

The movement powering the Aalto is the Miyota 8217 – which is practically the same as the more popular 8215 which can be found in the Spinnaker Cahill, James McCabe Heritage, and Ballast Trafalgar – but with a 24 hour indicator at 9.

The accuracy is rather incredible: timed using my Lepsi Watch Scope, it’s coming in at a surprising +5.2 sec/day. That’s great news – obviously it must have had a measure of regulating to get it that accurate. Other specs include a 42 hour power reserve, hand wind capabilities, and a beat rate of 21.6k bph (6 ticks per second).

The quality of finish is surprisingly smart for a Miyota, usually they have very basic finishing and sometimes they’re not the cleanest either, but that’s not the case here.

The Dufa Aalto comes equipped with a custom rotor, featuring a blue top with the Dufa logo inlaid in a metallic style. The rotor is a bit on the noisy side when it’s free spinning.

Final comments

Firstly, €499 / £435 is certainly on the highest end to pay for a Miyota powered timepiece – personally, it’s too much for me, when you can Swiss Made watches for a similar price. The good news is that DuFa watches are often available for less than the RRP, so I’m sure it’ll be available for slightly less than the asking price in due course.

Saying that, the Aalto truly is a lovely watch that is well designed and comprehensively constructed. The contoured case and sophisticated dial design make it a pleasure to survey; BUT – as long as you get used to the hour subdial showing a 24 hour rotation rather than the expected 12 hour.

The post Deutsche Uhrenfabrik (Dufa) Aalto Regulator Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

It’ll cost you $170 / £120, and is a solid Bauhaus / Nomos Tangente homage. If you know anything about your affordable Chinese homages, you’ll notice that this is basically the same as the Rodina I reviewed here, apart from a few important differences.

At first glance, it seems like a great deal – a proven design, along with an impressive movement in the Miyota 9015, so let’s take a closer look to see if this is really the case.

The specs

• Brand: GT&FQ
• Series: Rider
• Model: GTFQ-M005
• Movement: Miyota 9015
• Case: Premium 316L Stainless Steel 
• Dimensions: 38mm x 9 mm x 47mm (lug to lug)
• Weight: 53g
• Crystal: Front (Sapphire) See-through case back (Mineral Glass)
• Water Resistance: 5ATM (50M) 
• Band: Genuine Leather Strap: 20mm wide at lugs, 18mm wide at buckle
• Features: Date, hacking seconds hand
• Warranty: 1 Year

The case

The case is fully polished and clearly borrowed by the Nomos Tangente – from the lugs, the ridge around the case, and even the caseback.

The ridge around the sides of the case is minimal – not really a massive protrusion but just enough to keep a simple barrel case shape a little bit interesting. In addition to this, the angular lugs are a very pleasant design. They’re also drilled-through, so changing the strap is very easy and you’re unlikely to scratch or damage the lugs whilst doing so.

On to the sapphire crystal, which I think is one of the most impressive aspects of the watch. The anti-reflective coating is a class above all other watches in this price range. Watch the video review, and I compare it to the Steinhart Ocean 1 – a watch that I regard as one of the best watches available under £500 currently. The AR coating on the Rider M005 is much more impressive looking and works better in removing reflections. It really makes viewing the watch a joy and seem more expensive than it is.

From the greatest part of the watch to the worst – the crown. The crown itself isn’t that bad – it’s well sized and provides good grip. The issue with it is the “R” embossed on the end – it’s not refined at all, in fact, I’d be more inclined to call it a splat.

The screw-in caseback houses a mineral crystal window, allowing the entirety of the Miyota 9015 movement to be seen.

The case, on the whole, is well made and finished bar the embossing on the crown.

The dial

The dial is unmistakably in the Bauhaus style, and is a homage to the Nomos Tangente. It’s very simple in appearance and design: bold yet subtle.

I like how it’s a silvery / champagne colour rather than a bright white – this softens the dial and provides a classier look. The printing is the main characteristic, as there’s no applied elements at all – it’s a very flat dial with no textures or layers. With all eyes on the printing, it would have to be spot on as it will become the subject of scrutiny. Thankfully it is – it’s all delicate and accurate enough.

The hands are chemically blued, and are thin and elegant. They reach far towards the edge of the dial – the minute and seconds hands extend to the minute track and the hour hand sites just short of the hour markers. They’re flat, not pitched, again exaggerating the flat impression of the dial.

The date window is the only thing that bestows the dial with any sort of second layer. It’s fashioned well, with close attention to detail given it rather than being just a straight cut out of the main dial. This is because of the frame / border surrounding the window on a lower level, before the date wheel which is the same colour and therefore fits in nicely.

Whilst the dial is simple – there’s not really a massive amount going on – it’s well executed.

The strap

The leather strap is, of course, the usual place where watch brands try to save money and this is the case here. Unlike its brother the M001, which has a really nice strap for the price, the strap found on this watch is quite obviously made on a budget. It’s thin, and therefore feels fairly cheap. It’ll suffice for a while visually, but it’s unlikely to last a long time and just doesn’t feel that great on the wrist. So, although the watch is dead cheap I’d say that to make it a timepiece you’d be happy to wear for a very long time I’d recommend buying a decent strap. It measures 20mm wide at the lugs, reducing to 18mm at the buckle.

The tang buckle that comes with the strap is actually pretty good, with “Rider” deeply engraved across the top bar. 

The movement

Rather surprisingly, the movement powering the Rider M005 is the Miyota 9015. At a price like this, you’d expect a lesser movement, one that’s not high beat or quite as popular, especially amongst micro brands. For instance, the 9015 can be found in the following watches I’ve recently reviewed to name a few: the Erroyl E30, Melbourne Watch Co Flinders, and the Brathwait Minimalist Automatic. 

Of course, all those watches are much more expensive – in fact, at the current price, I believe this watch is the cheapest watch out there with the 9015. It’s high beat, running at 28.8k bph (8 ticks per second), has a power reserve of 40 hours, a hacking seconds hand, hand wind capability, and the reputation of a sturdy, well made and reliable movement.

As I’ve found quite often, the rotor is a little bit noisy when it’s spinning but no so loud it should put you off. Visually, it’s pretty industrial and basic but nice enough to be appreciated. 

The competition

The most direct competitor is no doubt the Rodina Bauhaus. It’s more or less exactly the same watch, bar a slightly different dial configuration and a lesser movement. The Rodina is cheaper at $120 / £85, but it isn’t as good a watch (namely the movement and the anti-reflective coating on the sapphire crystal) – so I’d opt for the Rider.

Of course, don’t forget you could go for the real deal – and buy the Nomos Tangente for £1200.

Final comments

Just like its brother, the M001, this watch has surprised me in terms of quality and specs for the affordable price of $170 / £120. I think it’s one of the cheapest watches to house a Miyota 9015, which in itself is a feat. Not only that though, the anti-reflective coating on the sapphire crystal is one of such quality you’d expect it to be found on a watch costing many times the asking price.

Of course, it’s not completely flawless – the “R” on the crown is a total splat, and the quality of the leather strap is not quite up to scratch.

Still, if you’re after a Bauhaus / Nomos style watch, for the price it doesn’t get better than the GT&FQ Rider M005.

The post GT&FQ Rider M005 Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

I’m happy to share with you all the Deutsche Uhrenfabrik (Dufa) Walter Gropius DF-9001-02. It’ll cost you €260 / £190, so immediately that’s a pretty good start. Let’s take a closer look to see if it’s a decent watch for that price. 

The case

The case is a rather minimalist affair, weighing in at a slight 35g. It measures 38mm in diameter, with a height of 8mm, and a 45mm lug to lug length. For my 7 1/4 inch wrist, it fits very well as a classic / vintage style timepiece. The low profile means it is extremely easy to wear, and coupled with the light weight it is also very comfortable. 

The case is completely polished, and has a very good level of finishing and machining. The finish is mirror-like, and the shape of the case is nicely executed. It has a bulbous, curved edge if you’re looking at it lug-on, and this actually makes it wear and feel a little smaller than the size suggests. Another reason why it’s an easy wear.

The push-on caseback contains a very detailed design, which is deeply engraved with impressive precision. There’s a nice drawing of a building of some sort, surrounded by a well-engraved spiral guilloche pattern. Around the outer edge is the Deutsche Uhrenfabrik name, and various watch specifics such as the model number, water resistance, and model number.

The Walter Gropius has a push-pull crown, which provides excellent grip. It’s just the right size – it’s the right proportion to the case, and is easy to use. It features the Dufa logo deeply etched on the end, once again quite impressively done.

The watch has 30m water resistance, which means it’s just about acceptable to go swimming in very shallow water with it on, not that I would personally do that. But it’s certainly fine to wear everyday and not worry about moisture getting in.

The crystal appears to be mineral, although I can’t be 100% certain. There’s no mention on the website, and I’ve asked but heard nothing back. It is a lovely shape, flat with a curved edging. This distorts the very edge of the view of the dial, especially the numerical hour markers – which I love. It keeps viewing the watch interesting, as at every angle something unique is happening. It’s also very vintage by design, working well with the rest of the watch.

Whilst the case in essence is simple, and actually very minimal, it’s very well made – and I especially appreciate the high quality of engraving found on the caseback and crown.

The dial

The dial really keeps the vintage theme going, and in fact is the key inspiration. This is thanks to the thin hands and Bauhaus numbers. The golden colours used on these also aid this.

The main dial plate is a black, shiny / polished finish. This provides a bit of reflection to the dial, in particular you can see the underside of the hands, and along the edges of the applied hour markers.

The small seconds is found within a subdial located at 6, set into the main dial body. It’s extremely neatly done, the edging between the two layers is completely flawless and smooth as you like.

One thing that I always love is applied hour markers. And I’m happy to say that the Sufa Walter Gropius doesn’t disappoint in this area. The numbers are in a stunning Bauhaus style font, tall and thin. They are the same gold / bronze colour as the hands, and look terrific against the shiny black dial when they catch the light. They’re all impressively made, even though they’re reasonably complex, and application is spot on.

The hands are thin, elegant, and simple. They have a light pitching to them, and are shaped as a baton with a small point at the tip. Just like the hour markers, they reflect the light well and look the part against the black back drop. They’re made with the same German accuracy as the rest of the watch.

The printing on the dial is all a golden colour to match the hands, numerals, and to contribute to the vintage vibe. It’s all accurate and precise, with no smudging.

The dial in total is really well made, and is also excellently designed.

The strap

The strap measures 18mm wide at the lugs, reducing to 16mm at the buckle – that’s fairly thin, but it matches the vintage feel and also suits the size of the case well. The leather feels very soft – it’s thin, but feels high quality – not like your usual thin leather that can be found on cheaper Chinese brands.

The straps is very soft and malleable, meaning it’s super comfortable on the wrist – you can barely feel it.

It’s a medium brown colour with slight oaky tones to it, with matching light brown stitching. The colour goes well with the vintage aesthetics, especially the golden hands and hour markers.

Regarding the buckle, the logo is the key design feature and is excellently made and engraved, just like the one found in the crown. The brushed central band is flanked by polished bars either side, and I really like how the logo is almost like a badge, overflowing the usual domain of the buckle.

It’s a comfortable strap, that matches and works perfectly with the watch.

The movement

To be completely honest, I have no idea on the movement. It’s quartz, but that’s all there is to know. I’ve asked, but not been informed. I would hazard a guess of it being something Japanese, such as a Miyota. 

The competition

If the vintage, Bauhaus look of the Dufa Walter Gropius catches your eye then there’s a couple alternatives, both of which look rather alike. 

First up is the Rodina R005, which has gathered quite a following in various watch forums. It’s blatantly Chinese (it says China Made on the dial), and boasts seriously impressive specs for $120 – sapphire crystal, automatic movement, and just generally pretty well made for the price. I don’t think it’s quite as well made as the Dufa, and a watch made in Germany will get you a little more street cred.

On the opposite end of the scale is the Nomos Tangente, the watch the Rodina is actually based on. They start at £1200, but are completely Made in Germany – including they’re own in-house movement. They’ve also got a reputation of being beautifully built.

Final comments

The design of the Dufa Walter Gropius really sings out to me personally. Whilst I love the idea and design behind vintage watches, they’re a whole other realm and world to new watches. So a vintage inspired, well constructed watch made in Germany for under £200 is a hit in my opinion. It’s a shame that there’s no mechanical option available, as that would complete the vintage check list. 

Still, if you like it, you can be certain that you’ll be getting plenty for your money. Not forgetting that you also get a 2 year warranty, it is a stunning little watch that is very refined and well put together. If you like it, go for it.

The post Deutsche Uhrenfabrik (Dufa) Walter Gropius DF-9001-02 Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

It seems to have received a positive response and quite a following to match. Why is this the case? Mainly because of the surprising spec for $120, and also the fact that this is one of the only affordable homages available with a Classic Bauhaus style. I had to get my hands on one to take a closer look…

Currently, the best place to buy the Rodina is Good Stuffs (which is where I got this one from). http://www.good-stuffs.com/Classic-Rodina-automatic-wrist-watch-OEM-by-Sea-Gull-ST17_p_156.html

The model doesn’t really have a name, heck, I don’t even think there are any other current Rodinas out there apart from the blue faced equivalent.

Rodina R005 Bauhaus Watch Review

The case

The case is very straight-forward in design and build. It is entirely polished, and is 38.37mm in diameter, although it appears more like 40mm thanks to the very thin bezel.

The top angle has a sharply cut edge, at 90 degrees with the tiniest of rounded edging. The underside’s profile is provided by the screw-down case back, which is the full size of the bottom of the Rodina R005. Rather than being as angular as the top of the case, the bottom has a shallow curve around the edges – which makes for a comfortable wear. The case-back has a mineral crystal in the centre (also known as an exhibition case back) to show off the innards of the Sea-Gull ST17 movement. It has the details of the watch lightly etched around the crystal. The case-back overall is nicely executed and a key feature of the watch in my eyes.

The height of the case is a slim 9.25mm, resulting in a low profile and easy wear. This thin height of the case also emphasises the minimalist bauhaus design.

The only other design feature of the case is a thin and shallow indent around the side of the case. I’m not sure if this is a design feature, as in the case has been machined with it there to look nice, or if it is a manufacturing feature – it looks like it could be that the case and the bezel are two separate pieces if steel and this is the join where they have been screwed together. Nevertheless, it looks good and breaks up the side of an otherwise very plain case.

On top of the case is a sapphire crystal, with no anti-reflective coating apparent (although with a lighter dial it is not needed as much as a dark dial). I am not sure of the thickness of the sapphire crystal, but judging by the sound it makes when you tap it, I would say it is relatively thin. But hey, it’s still better than a mineral crystal.

The Rodina has a fairly plain pull-out crown at 3 with “R” embossed on the end. It has a shallow grip testier around the outside. There are no crown guards present as protection.

The lugs on the case are another unique feature of this watch (I say unique, I mean copied off the Nomos Tangente). They have a very angular profile, protruding at 90 degrees out from the case and then turning down at 45 degrees. The Rodina features drilled lugs, which make changing straps nice and easy – it means that you can contract the pins to remove the strap from the outside through the holes.

The overall impression of the case is very good, and it is very well finished. There are no apparent flaws or signs of poor machining.

The dial

The colour of the dial is a very pleasant off white, with tints of cream and silver flowing through it depending on the angle of the light reflection. It’s a very plainly designed dial, the only discernible styled items are the Bauhaus inspired numeral hour markers for every even number. There are printed baton hour markers for all the odd hours. The only other printing on the dial is “Rodina” and “automatic” below it in the top half, and then “China Made” at the foot of the face. This is interesting that Rodina decided to have this here, as unfortunate as it is (China do make some very good watches), it may put off a number of people.

The hands are an extremely simple stick with a small point at the tip. They are all blued steel, which brings in the only splash of colour to the watch. The colour is very dark, so only in certain light does the blue come through, but when it does it looks very nice and gives the watch an expensive appearance. To the naked eye, the hands all appear to be very well made. Only upon cracking out the macro lens does some very minor flaws show up, mainly on the edging where they have been cut or made.

The small seconds subdial has a very subtle concentric circle pattern in it, giving the general face an extra texture and making it a bit more interesting. A nice extra touch at this price.

As I mentioned before, it is interesting that the only reference to Bauhaus is the font used for the numerals. I figure if they changed the font for an elegant serif or a smart sans-serif (as not everyone likes the bauhaus numeral look), it would completely alter the overall look of the watch, transforming it into a classy dress watch.

The strap

The 20mm wide strap that comes fitted to the Rodina is a little on the thin side, but is comfortable enough. As I mention in the video review, it is most probably something you would be looking at swapping out anyway. But, if you’re not too bothered, it does the job just fine. It is soft and comfortable on the underside, you barely notice the watch is on when you are wearing it. There is also a black thread either side of the strap for the whole length.

One thing I have noticed is that usually I wear any leather strap on the second hole. On the Rodina though, I have to have it on the 4th at least, and there are only 7 in total. It is much shorter than any other straps I have worn. If you have a large wrist, don’t expect the stock strap to fit!

Another thing regarding the strap is that I have not worn the watch a great amount, and already there is slight creasing appearing on it from the buckle. I was expecting it to last a bit longer before it started to crease, this is most probably due to the slightly thinner profile of the leather.

The fully polished stainless steel buckle is a little bit flimsy flimsy too, with a light etching of “RODINA” on it. There is a lot of movement in the pin. But, it does the job just fine.

The movement

The Rodina is powered by an automatic Sea-Gull ST17 movement. It is well known as being a solid, dependable and cost-effective automatic movement. It runs at 21.6k bph, equating to 6 ticks per second. Rather than having a centre second hand, the running seconds are situated in a subdial at 6. The smaller hand gives the movement the appearance of a smoother sweep. The Sea-Gull ST17 movement has hand wind functionality, but does not have a hacking function. It has proved to be very accurate in its time keeping for a couple of weeks.

The exhibition case back shows off this movement nicely. You get to see pretty much all of it, including the plastic movement holder keeping it secure. The ST-17 feels reassuringly secure when changing the time, supporting the general vibe that this is a sturdy and dependable movement.

The rotor could be a bit more visually appealing, but it is understandable that it has to be sterile and generic, in order that it can be used in so many different watches. The Côtes de Genève / pearlage markings are classically Chinese and are pleasant to view.

Final comments

All in all, this watch is impressive, and I personally like it very much. Obviously you would most probably want to replace the strap, but that’s not really a big problem. In fact, it’s something you expect from most of the cheaper Chinese watches available today. The watch head itself offers great looks and value for money however. The specs of a dependable ST17 movement with exhibition case back, sapphire crystal and very well machined case, especially at only $120, makes the Rodina R005 a great buy if the Bauhaus design appeals to you. I would highly recommend it as a cheap alternative / homage to the Nomos Tangente.

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