Case and Wearing Experience

The CLAVIUS comes in a choice of two finishes, Black (Black dial with titanium case), or the Black Edition tested here, which features a black PVD case for a stealthy monochromatic look. The large 44mm diameter case of the CLAVIUS is a bold choice for such a simple watch with not much going on. However, don’t for one minute think that this is a bulky watch, far from it! With an overall thickness of just 9.1mm and no lugs to speak of, although it looks large, this can be worn on a surprising range of wrist sizes. It’s comfortable too, weighing in at a featherweight 42g without the strap, thanks to its Tri-Titanium case. As the name suggests, three different compounds of aluminium are used, with each alloy specifically chosen for its unique qualities best suited to the section of the case it’s used for – the bezel, the mid-case and the caseback. This makes the watch extremely light, strong, resistant to corrosion, anti-magnetic and hypoallergenic. Most of the case has a brushed finish, but sandblasting has been used to the undercut sections of the rear.

Whilst the case comprises three sections, you’d be forgiven for thinking it was a two-section case as the integration of the thin bezel and mid-case is virtually seamless. The caseback doesn’t protrude from the mid-case either as the entire depth of the movement, sapphire crystal and slim caseback outer ring are entirely sunken into the internals of the casing. This is discrete and a nice touch.

Another point of distinction is the geometry of the case, which is best appreciated when viewed in profile so that the attractive architectural arc of the rear is visible. A small, signed crown sits at three o’clock, which is surprisingly grippy thanks to the deep knurling and easy to grab hold of thanks to the undercut case design. However, this does also leave it somewhat more vulnerable to accidents!

The sapphire crystal is very slightly domed and has anti-reflective (AR) coating on both sides. The AR does a reasonable job, but for a minimalist watch that’s nearly all black, I feel that there is still too much reflection. Water resistance is just 50m, but this is fine as it’s not really the sort of watch you’re likely to take into the water anyway.

The lug width on the CLAVIUS is a broad 22mm and BOTTA offers a choice of six different straps, including stainless steel options. My watch came on a black unpadded organic leather strap with matching stitching, two keepers, and a simple black pin buckle. It tapers from 22mm to 20mm, and the leather is incredibly soft and supple with zero wear-in period needed. Whichever strap option you choose, they all continue the minimalist, ‘nothing unnecessary’, design language. Plus, with a 22mm lug width, it’ll be relatively easy to pick up an aftermarket strap if you prefer.

The Dial and Legibility

Working from the outside in, the main lower dial is a matt dark grey with simple, but slightly raised, printed batons for each hour marker, which are slightly thicker and longer for each of the cardinal points. The bright green hour and minute hands are only visible in this sector of the dial. The visible part of the hour hand is a stubby isosceles trapezoid shape which extends halfway across the outer dial, and the minute hand is a thin tapering triangle which extends nearly to the edge of the dial.

A large matt black disc obscures most of the lower dial and is raised to the underside of the sapphire crystal adding much needed sense of depth. This disc also conceals the stems of all three hands and the pinion. Arabic numerals in grey can be found at 6, 9 and 12 o’clock positions. Rectangular apertures are precisely cut out from the centre disk, through which you catch glimpses of the white seconds hand as it jumps from window to window in one second increments, in a manner somewhat reminiscent of a dead-beat seconds complication. This is very much the party trick of the CLAVIUS and what makes it unique. It’s ingenious in its simplicity and mesmerising to watch! Even though you know that underneath the floating dial, the seconds hand must be moving regularly at 8 beats per second like a normal automatic watch, no matter how hard you try, you can’t perceive it and you’d swear it’s only ‘ticking’ once per second. The BOTTA logo and ‘automatic’ text are cut-out at the 3 o’clock position, and this text fades in and out when the white seconds hand passes once a minute. 

Although the dial is uncluttered, I wouldn’t say legibility is a strength of the CLAVIUS. Even though the hands are bright, only small sections are visible. And whilst, of course, this is part of the design, I think the overall aesthetic could be retained whilst decreasing the size of the centre floating disk slightly to allow for larger visible sections of the hour and minute hands. Similarly, in low light, it can be difficult to see the time at a glance as the Super-LumiNova is fairly poor and doesn’t glow very brightly. For a watch such as this, I feel that the lume should be exceptional, but it’s sadly not.

Finally, whilst the CLAVIUS does have an anti-reflective coating applied to both sides of the sapphire crystal, I’d like to see reflections reduced further still. With a big expanse of all-black/dark grey dial and a domed shape crystal reflections are bound to be more prominent than on most watches.

Movement

BOTTA has opted for a Elaboré grade Sellita SW200-1 to power the watch, which can be seen through the exhibition sapphire caseback. This simple, but robust and accurate Swiss automatic movement has also been ‘individually adjusted by hand’, although BOTTA doesn’t elaborate any further on this. A custom rotor has also been fitted and bears the ‘CLAVIUS’ name acid etched in a gold colour. A nice design detail has also been etched into the rotor which mimics the cut-out dial apertures for the ‘digital’ seconds track on the front of the watch.

Final thoughts…!

I imagine the CLAVIUS will be a bit of a ‘marmite’ watch that will appeal to a narrow cross-section of buyers. That’s not necessarily a bad thing, as it means that it’s daring to be different and stands out from the crowd. I can see it appealing to lovers of modernism, younger generations who have been raised on smart watches but have an interest in mechanical watches, and seasoned watch enthusiasts and collectors looking to add some novelty to their collection. However, given the CLAVIUS’ $1953 / €1830 price tag (at time of writing), it’s a big ask to expect the CLAVIUS to tempt people away from more conventional historied Swiss brands such as Oris, Longines and Hamilton at similar price points.

With a reliable Swiss movement, sapphire sandwich and titanium case, the CLAVIUS offers solid specifications, but nothing out of the ordinary. So, I guess its appeal will lie in its design-led, Bauhaus-inspired modernist aesthetic. BOTTA certainly puts out some distinctive watches, and CLAVIUS with its ‘digital’ seconds is perhaps one of the most unique of the brand’s two-handers. But the watch’s simplicity might be a stretch too far for some, and it could be argued that with such a large expanse of negative space on offer, a 40mm case might have sufficed.

With a watch this stripped down, I feel that what remains needs to be amplified. More extravagance could be lavished by way of top-tier engineering such as an oil-filled dial for the ultimate legibility, flawless execution of solid luminescent blocks for the hands, or applied indices cut with precision.

I admire BOTTA for doing things a little differently and the brand certainly has a niche. The CLAVIUS is a very clever design, without being complicated or expensive to manufacture. It’s a strikingly modern watch and a unique conversation piece, with a party trick certainly intrigues!

The post BOTTA CLAVIUS Review – The Bauhaus Watch With A Party Trick Up Its Sleeve! appeared first on 12&60.

At first glance, the C1 Moonphase’s dial, crafted from aventurine—a glass infused with reflective flakes of copper oxide—draws you into its mesmerizing celestial display. Each piece of aventurine being unique, every watch becomes an individual masterpiece. The starry night sky effect, a result of the reflective copper oxide, grants the dial an ethereal quality that is simply breathtaking. Capturing the shimmering stars at varying angles, the dial is the heart of this timepiece, outshining everything else.

The decision to strip the dial of unnecessary embellishments, including the logo, directs your attention to the elegant handset and the oversized, perpetually moving moon. Notably, the highly polished and meticulously crafted hands complement the watch’s overall aesthetic, creating a captivating visual allure that is hard to resist.

A standout feature of the C1 Moonphase is its Globolight moons, which rotate on an aventurine disc. These moons, coated with a four-color print of the actual moon, present a three-dimensional appearance with enhanced accuracy. Unlike its predecessor, the C1 Moonglow, the C1 Moonphase emits a pure white glow in the dark, owing to its ceramic and Super-LumiNova composition.

Behind this celestial spectacle lies the genius of Calibre JJ04, an in-house modular movement, seamlessly linking the moon’s phase to the hour hand. With a power reserve that can faithfully track the moon’s phase for an astonishing 128 years, the craftsmanship of the JJ04 movement is an ode to the magic of traditional mechanical watchmaking. Advancing the position of the moon is as simple as pulling the crown out to the first position and rotating it counterclockwise.

Christopher Ward’s attention to detail extends to the watch’s construction as well. The inclusion of a box-sapphire crystal, coated on both sides with an anti-reflective layer, ensures unparalleled clarity and visibility, elevating the wearer’s experience to new heights.

On the wrist, the smooth leather strap, equipped with a quick-release system, offers an understated yet refined touch. The suppleness of the leather and the seamless functionality of the Bader clasp contribute to an overall luxurious wearing experience. However, the buckle’s design may result in a slight top-hang on the wrist, a minor but noticeable detail.

Crafted with a 40.5mm case featuring a seamless blend of brushed and polished surfaces, the C1 Moonphase exudes a level of finishing comparable to renowned luxury brands. The well-proportioned crown with a simple yet effective grip and the deeply embossed twin flags motif add a touch of sophistication and elegance.

Considering the price, one might question whether the adoption of the Sellita SW288-1 could have reduced the cost compared to the custom JJ04 module. Nevertheless, when juxtaposed with its contemporaries like the Farer Moonphase, retailing at a comparable price, the value proposition of the C1 Moonphase becomes evident. In comparison to other moonphase watches, such as the Meistersinger Lunascope, priced at more than double, the C1 Moonphase provides exceptional value for money, showcasing Christopher Ward’s commitment to delivering a superior timepiece.

In terms of specifications, the C1 Moonphase impresses with a 40.5mm diameter, 13.3mm height, 47.9mm lug-to-lug, and a lightweight 67g build. The Sellita SW200-1 movement with the JJ04 module speaks volumes about the craftsmanship and functionality of this masterpiece. With a power reserve of 38 hours, 26 jewels, and a tolerance of -20/+20 seconds per day, the C1 Moonphase ensures reliability and precision for the discerning wearer.

Retailing at £2,120/$2,475/€2,655 on a bracelet and £1,995/$2,325/€2,495 on a leather strap, the Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase undoubtedly represents a new pinnacle in the brand’s commitment to excellence and innovation. With its celestial charm, meticulous craftsmanship, and exceptional value for money, the C1 Moonphase stands as a testament to Christopher Ward’s unwavering dedication to the art of watchmaking. Whether you’re an ardent collector or a discerning enthusiast, the C1 Moonphase promises to be a timeless addition to any watch connoisseur’s collection.

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Not your average dive watch!

First off, before I even get to the ‘what made me go wow’ section, I’ve got to say that the unboxing experience set the tone for what was to follow. The Apple-like tolerances on the packaging were impressive, with seemingly not a gram of the 100% sustainable packaging going to waste. Getting to your watch is a bit of a Russian doll experience, so you feel like a kid at Christmas. Think fabric pouch within inner box, within outer box, handwritten notes, all using quality textured card, branded and embossed. It strikes just the right balance between making you feel like it’s a special experience but without ever feeling opulent or like a disproportionate amount of your money is being spent on the packaging. Even the functional protective packaging made me think that someone at Aera must be in high demand come Christmas wrapping time!

Get to the watch, and you can tell right away that it’s a hefty bit of kit, but before you’ve even unwrapped the plastic you also get a good feeling about the form. The first thing I noticed was that the rubber strap is very high quality, without being too bulky like some rubber straps. Then, unpeel the plastic from the dial-side and you’re hit with the beauty of the drop-dead gorgeous, bespoke, high-domed sapphire crystal covering the concave dial. It’s quite unlike any other watch and I was genuinely excited to get it on my wrist. Not a bad start for a watch brand that many of you might not have heard of yet hey?!

Now that I’ve had time to take a deep breath and calm my excitement, let’s dive into the structured review and see if the good vibes continued…

The Case And Wearing Experience

The first sign that Aera is a microbrand that does things differently is that the case of the D-1 Diver is made using 904L stainless steel. This is more expensive than 316L stainless steel both in terms of raw material costs and the machining costs, but has numerous benefits, such as greater resistance against corrosion and ability to take a higher polish than other grades of steel. The fact that Rolex uses 904L stainless steel, gives you some indication that this is a premium material. Aera has not scrimped on details either as, unlike many watch brands that use 904L for the main case but 316L for other parts, Aera uses 904L stainless steel throughout, including the caseback, crown, bezel, and even the buckles on the straps!

The case diameter is 44mm, so there’s no denying this watch is on the larger side. It’s thick too, with an overall height of 16mm. You could probably use this watch as a weapon in close combat, and I’m pretty sure it would even survive nuclear meltdown. However, considering its mass, it feels delightful on the wrist. There are a few reasons for this…

Firstly, the case itself is a much more reasonable 13.4mm thick, with a diameter of 42mm. The remainder of the diameter comprises the overhanging bezel (which significantly aids grip) and the thickness is boosted by the star of the show, the stunning sapphire crystal that covers the dial. The lug-to-lug measurement in relation to the case diameter is also reasonable at 49.8mm.

Secondly, case design and integration with the supplied custom fit, curved-end straps is beyond reproach. The organic undercut case shape combines a series of complex compound curves, with a barrel-shaped centre, and a profile that somewhat resembles a UFO. The lugs angle down sharply, and when combined with the sharply downturned, formed straps, the watch hugs your wrist like a koala to a gum tree. You can’t help but love it.

Lastly, the bezel and sapphire integrate perfectly with a seamless gentle curve, meaning you’re less likely to catch your clothing on the D-1 than most watches this size.

The entire watch has a brushed finish. The top and bottom sections of the lugs, and solid caseback feature circular brushing, whereas the mid-case features linear brushing. The screw-down caseback is engraved with the Aera logo, serial number of the watch and some of its specifications. A nice touch is that the serial number is also engraved onto the reverse of the bottom right lug. The 120-click unidirectional rotating bezel has a matt black ceramic insert with Swiss Super-Lumi-Nova X1 filled, engraved Arabic numerals and hash markers. The Bezel action is crisp, lines up perfectly and has zero back play. Looking at the case on a macro level, maybe the brushing could have been slightly finer, but that’s about the only negative here. Whether this is something that’s just more noticeable on 904L because of the sheen, I’m not sure, but it’s not something you’d pick up on unless examining under a loupe.

The large 6.5mm crown juts out from the case a fair way, but somehow never digs into your wrist. The crown is grippy, engages positively and features a blue, lumed accent to match the 12 o’clock bezel marker. Water resistance is an impressive 300m / 30ATM.

Size Analogy Alert!

In true Watchfinder style, let me make a poor attempt at an analogy here. You’re sat on a train, with an empty seat beside you. At the next stop a much larger than average chap, let’s call him Dave, makes a b-line for the gap. He takes a seat, but rather than being aware of his mass, he ‘man-spreads’ like a Puffer Fish in an inflatable sumo suit. Well, the D-1 Diver is the opposite of Dave. The D-1 Diver is Dave trying his darndest to huddle up and pull every flailing limb inward in an attempt to minimise his mass, thus avoiding intimidating others or meeting some stereotype the other passengers may have of him!

Special mention for the straps

The lug width on the Aera D1-Diver is 22mm, so it’ll be relatively easy to buy aftermarket straps for. However, I seriously doubt you’ll feel the need to. Aera generously supplies three straps as standard, two core straps (black rubber, and grey suede), and you get to choose the third. My favourite was the Orange Pebble leather strap. Make no mistake, these are not cheaply made straps bundled in just to make it look like you’re getting more for your money. The supplied straps are carefully chosen and are some of the best quality straps I’ve handled. All are bespoke to the watch and feature bolstered, curved ends with quick-release spring bars. They fit extremely close to the case and look amazing. The straps are also formed so that they curve dramatically downwards from the case, ensuring the watch doesn’t ride high on the wrist. The custom buckles are made form 904L stainless steel and milled to perfection, with a deep channel to the reverse, which ensures that the buckle sits flat against the strap.

There is no stainless steel bracelet option offered for the D-1, which could certainly be a negative for some people. However, I have a feeling that this might have been a purposeful decision made by Aera at design stage, as I’m not sure how a bracelet would look. In light of this however, it might have been good to fit an adjustable deployant clasp on the supplied straps so it’s easier to get a really precise fit. Oh, and whilst the straps are easy to remove thanks to the quick-release spring bars, they are very difficult to fit, because of the tight tolerances. If the quick-release spring bars were double-sided this might be easier.

Aera D-1 Diver Dial – a lesson in legibility!

As you’ve probably gathered by now, the D-1 Diver is all about function, form, and purpose. There are no shiny surfaces, metal surrounds or chamfering, and the dial is entirely monochromatic except for the end of the seconds hand, which is painted with a blue to match the 12 o’clock triangle on the rotating bezel. It’s clean, simple and has supreme legibility. Think Sinn or Damasko and then some!

And of course, Aera didn’t do the dial the easy way. Extra effort was made to achieve something different. Two design elements in particular deserve mention here. Firstly, the matt black dial is no ordinary dial. It’s sprayed with Aera’s proprietary matt black “velvet” lacquer. (The deeply etched markings are added prior to this.) This makes the surface super-sensitive. If the dial is touched, cleaned, or if dust lands on it after spraying, Aera’s engineers have to start the entire process from scratch again. Now that’s dedication to achieving a vision! Secondly, the dial is pressed as one seamless and continuous piece with the outer perimeter of the dial (essentially the minute track) being subtly curved. It’s this curved dial together with the exceptional domed sapphire crystal that give the D-1 Diver that ‘wow’ factor I mentioned early in my review.  The sapphire crystal also has a double-sided anti-reflective coating applied.

Considerable real estate is given over to immense blocks of Swiss Super-LumiNova Grade X1 which is all applied by hand into the ‘wells’ created before the dial is sprayed. Dial markings are pure white in the daytime, but glow blue at night, except for the Aera logo which glows white. Every marking on the dial is pure lume, including the bezel markings, the blued tip of the seconds hand, and even the five-minute hash marks on the outer minute track. The result is a lume-lovers dream. If you get lost in the woods at night you could probably use your D-1 diver to guide a safe path home.

The hour hand is baton-shaped with a circular design element, and the minute hand is a simple baton. A simple stick-style seconds hand features a circular counter-balance. The hands are all lumed.

True to form, Aera has again shown their design flair in two exquisite details that you might not spot at first glance. Firstly, the ‘A’ in the Aera logo is perfectly framed by the lollipop counterbalance of the seconds hand as it glides by. Secondly, the counter-balance of the seconds hand fits perfectly within the circle of the hour hand as it passes over.

Aera D-1 Diver Movement

The D-1 Diver uses the Swiss-made Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement. This industry standard 26-jewel movement beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz), has a 38-hour power reserve, and hacks to stop the seconds hand so you can set a precise time. You can also hand-wind the movement.

Aside from anything subjective, the movement is about the only significant negative about this watch. It’s not that the Sellita isn’t a good choice, in fact far from it. A Sellita is the obvious choice for a watch at this price point and more than adequate. However, Aera missed a trick by not regulating the movement themselves to bring greater accuracy than the standard +/- 12 seconds a day (+/- 30 seconds per day positional deviation). Also, this is a no-date watch, but the ‘ghost’ crown position, which would normally operate the date wheel, has been kept. This is a real shame as it feels completely at odds with the level of attention to detail lavished elsewhere on the watch.

Final Thoughts

It’s impossible not to be impressed by the D-1 Diver. Having it on loan has been both a delight and a surprise. Perhaps the biggest compliment I can pay the Aera is that I was genuinely excited about it the second I unpacked it. It just put a smile on my dial and made me feel like a kid in a sweet shop. This is quite an achievement, as the more watches you get to see, the harder it is to be awe struck.

The D-1 is a watch that bucks the recent trend of vintage-inspired small dive watches and skin divers. Of course, its size means that it’s never going to be a crowd-pleaser, but to be fair, I suspect it was never designed to have mass market appeal. This is a dive watch in the true sense of the word, a tool designed to be used as such, whilst looking beautiful to boot. Having said that, the watch wears considerably better than its on-paper dimensions. So, unless you have small wrists, dismiss this watch at your peril! To do so would mean missing out on one of the best dive watches currently available for under £1500.

Would I like it to be smaller? Ultimately, yes. But only slightly. The unique design of this watch works best on a large scale. If it was shrunk too dramatically, it would lose some of its appeal and the impact of the amazing dial and sapphire combo.

Excluding any sizing concerns, the only noteworthy negatives of the D-1 Diver for me are the ghost crown position, lack of in-house regulation on the movement, and the lack of a bracelet option. Anything else is either subjective or just nit-picking.

As I’m sure you’ve picked up on, I’ve been blown away by this watch. It’s a remarkable first watch from a new brand, that also comes with a three-year warranty. The D-1 Diver offers something truly different to most dive watches. It combines many unique design elements, it’s well specced, utterly contemporary and it offers phenomenal legibility, probably the best I’ve seen on any watch. It’s virtually impossible to fault the materials used, engineering and overall quality of this Swiss-made watch. This is clearly a watch that has been conceptualised as a whole package, with every detail thoughtfully considered. And if you collect watches, I virtually guarantee it will be unlike anything you already own!

The post Aera D-1 Diver Review – Big, Bold and Beautiful! appeared first on 12&60.

Whilst the notion that a watch that retails for £8,600 would ever be the first choice for an MI6 agent is somewhat laughable, the No Time To Die Seamaster does incorporate many features that make it an excellent everyday tool watch.

Buy the Omega Seamaster 007 at Goldsmiths.

Specifications Of The Omega Seamaster 007 Edition

• Case Width: 42mm
• Case Thickness: 13.15mm
• Lug-to-lug: 49mm
• Lug Width: 20mm
• Crystal: Domed sapphire
• Water Resistance: 300 metres
• Movement: Omega Calibre 8806 Automatic. METAS-certified chronometer with co-axial escapement
• Power Reserve: 55-Hours
• Price: £7,600 on NATO, or £8,600 on mesh bracelet

A Very Military Watch

As befits a spy watch, the No Time To Die Seamaster looks every inch the tool watch. Unlike the standard Seamaster Diver 300m, the watch has no shiny surfaces whatsoever. The titanium case is completely brushed, and the bezel insert is aluminium with a matte finish. The dial is also matte and the markers and hands aren’t polished either. Both the dial and bezel are actually deep brown, rather than black, and whilst that might sound odd, it’s a very subtle colour that simply accentuates the warmth of the creamy lume. 

The lack of reflective surfaces is just what any spy wants. Even though I’m not a super-spy, I appreciate the functional aesthetic of the watch, and it’ll tick a lot of boxes for anyone after a watch with a strong military vibe. 

The Seamaster’s case back is pretty simple. Like the dial, it features the broad arrow symbol, along with a series of numbers that mimic those found on genuine British military watches. It’s a simple design, but again it’s in keeping with the concept behind the watch. 

The Seamaster has a healthy 300m of water resistance, which is plenty for a watch like this that’s marketed as a capable “go anywhere, do anything” piece. However, on that note, I find Omega’s choice of an aluminium bezel insert disappointing. They could easily have used a matte ceramic insert that would have been far more scratch resistant and not compromised the watch’s aesthetics. 

How Legible Is The Omega Seamaster 007 Edition?

The matte look, combined with the chunky hour markers, makes for a very legible dial. The overall design is very clean, and the red-tipped seconds hand and “Seamaster” text really pop against the brown and beige of the watch. I have just one small quibble, which is that the skeleton hands aren’t as legible as they would be if they were solid.

Just above the six o’clock marker, Omega added a broad arrow mark – something traditionally used to denote the property of the Ministry of Defense. But here it serves simply as a small nod to Bond’s rank of commander in the Royal Navy. 

To help give the watch something of a vintage look, Omega gave the 007 Edition Seamaster a domed sapphire crystal. It definitely helps make the watch look a bit retro, but I don’t think everyone will like the number of reflections that the curved edge picks up. On the flip side, the crystal doesn’t pick up much glare thanks to an anti-reflective coating on the underside. 

The lume on the No Time To Die Seamaster is really good, and the dial and bezel are easy to see in the dark. Omega has also made the minute hand glow green so that it stands out against the blue glow of the other lume. It’s a small attention to detail that demonstrates that this isn’t just a dive watch for show. 

How The Watch Wears

When it comes to how the watch feels on the wrist, I think that the Seamaster is surprisingly well-proportioned, despite its 42mm case size. And, as the case and bracelet are made from grade 2 titanium, the watch is incredibly light. For a tool watch, this is just what you want, and I could easily forget that the watch is even on my wrist. 

Somewhat unusually, the watch comes on a mesh strap, which makes for a refreshing change from the solid metal bracelets usually put on dive watches. It’s a look that I think definitely works, and the bracelet itself is very well made. The foldover clasp feels very secure, and it’s far nicer than the clasps seen on cheap mesh bracelets. 

The only negative thing I have to say about the mesh bracelet is that as the excess tail of the strap is passed under the bracelet, it can make the watch feel a bit awkward on the wrist. Though, if that’s something that really does annoy you, the Seamaster is also available on a NATO strap, which knocks a whole £1,000 off the retail price. 

Like a lot of people, I’m not the biggest fan of the helium escape valve at 10 o’clock. It throws off the balance of the watch’s design, and it’s also really not that useful for the vast majority of people. However, it doesn’t get in the way, and it doesn’t bother me enough to put me off the watch as a whole.

The Movement

Inside the No Time To Die Seamaster is Omega’s Calibre 8806. This 35-jewel automatic movement has a 55-hour power reserve and is resistant to magnetic fields reaching 15,000 gauss. It’s also a METAS-certified Master Chronometer, so it will be accurate between 0/+5 seconds a day. It’s a robust movement and its specifications speak for themselves. Sure, this watch may be pretty expensive, but you get a lot of technical sophistication for your money. 

Final Thoughts

Whilst Omega has gotten a lot of stick in the past for their James Bond pieces, I think that this 007 Edition Seamaster Diver 300m is one of their nicest models. Even without the James Bond tie-in, it’s a fantastic execution of the concept of stripping the Seamaster Diver 300m down to its tool watch roots. 

The biggest problem with it is the price. At £8,600 on a mesh bracelet, it’s a whopping 68% more expensive than the standard steel Seamaster Diver 300m. It’s a steep premium to pay for a titanium watch that shares the same specifications as the standard steel Seamaster, and which also isn’t even a limited edition. 

However, pricing aside, I think the No Time To Die Seamaster is a well-designed watch. You can see how Omega has taken that idea and ran with it. The elimination of any reflective surfaces, the oversized lume plots, and the lightweight construction are all very much on point for a military-themed watch like this one.

So whilst this is a watch made as a film collaboration, it really doesn’t feel like one. And that’s what sells this watch for me. It doesn’t shout that it’s a Bond watch, and I admire that restraint from Omega. 

You can read more about the Omega Seamaster Diver 300m 007 Edition on Omega’s website here. 

Buy the Omega Seamaster 007 at Goldsmiths.

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Back in 2019, Christopher Ward launched their own field watch called the Sandhurst, as part of its military collection. Approved by the British Ministry of Defence, the C65 Sandhurst is of course named after the famous Royal Military Academy in Berkshire. It’s a loose interpretation of the iconic Smith’s W10, the field watch issued to the British Army between 1967 and 1970. The Smiths W10 is perhaps the most well-known of the British field watches, so it was the natural choice for Christopher Ward to take inspiration from. The Sandhurst has proved to be one of Christopher Ward’s most popular models, and now the company has refreshed the original design and launched the updated Sandhurst Series 2.

I’ll cut to the chase right now and say that this update is most definitely an improvement over the original Sandhurst, which itself was an excellent watch. But Christopher Ward has listened to feedback regarding the Series 1 and made a few small changes that take the watch to the next level. The changes themselves are quite varied and subtle, so rather than list them out I’ll cover each point as it arises.

The C65 Sandhurst Has A Killer Case And Bracelet

We’ll start with perhaps my favourite aspect of Christopher Ward watches, and that’s the case. The brand dubs the design the Light-catcher™ because of the way the combination of chamfers and brushed and polished surfaces play with the light. It’s a design I’m so fond of because it demonstrates just how high above its weight Christopher Ward punches. The finishing is simply superb, and the design strikes a perfect balance between form and function.

In addition to its good looks, the Sandhurst is also rather comfortable to wear. Part of that is down to the case dimensions, because with a 38mm diameter, a lug length of 43.7mm, and a thickness of 11.9mm, I think the Sandhurst sits in something of a sweet spot. It’s not so small as to be dainty, but also not so big that the simple design looks out of proportion. (Yes, I’m looking at you, Tudor Ranger.)

However, the biggest reason that the Sandhurst wears so well is its upgraded bracelet. Whilst the case is exactly the same as was used for the Series 1, Christopher Ward has made a couple of tweaks to the oyster bracelet. Namely, the bracelet now includes half-links, and the links themselves are secured by screw pins. Paired with the ratcheting micro-adjustment system built into the clasp, it’s never been easier to get the perfect fit on your wrist. Though, if I had to be really picky, I’d say that the clasp is possibly a little long, as it’s practically the same length as the watch, and might be a bit too big for some people. However, on a positive note, the bracelet also uses quick-release spring bars, which make changing the straps on the Sandhurst ridiculously simple.

A Twist On A Classic Design

As I said at the beginning, the Sandhurst is based on the classic Smiths W10, which means that its dial follows the instantly recognizable field watch layout. There’s an arrow at the 12 o’clock position, with Arabic numerals at the other hour markers, and a railroad minute track surrounding them. The font of the Arabic numerals has also been changed, and it’s now much closer to the font used on the Smiths W10. It’s a small thing, but it shows some nice attention to detail on Christopher Ward’s part.

I’m sure you’ll also have noticed that the dial no longer has the full “Christopher Ward” text printed beneath twelve o’clock, and instead has their twin flags logo. It’s a welcome change, as the twin flags are much more compact and balanced than the full-text logo ever was.

As I’ll get onto later, Christopher Ward has upgraded the lume on the C65 Sandhurst, and a side effect of the heavier application is that the numerals are now slightly raised, which stops the dial from looking too flat and dull. You’ll either love or hate the use of “Old Radium” lume on the minute track and handset, and there’s no right or wrong opinion on it. But, personally, I like the use of two different shades of lume, as it adds another dimension to an otherwise straightforward design.

Another obvious change is to the handset, which is now arrow-shaped and completely flat with a toolish brushed finish. On the one hand, I prefer these to the old baton handset which had bevelled polished sides. Those polished surfaces had a tendency to turn black under certain lighting and thus make the hands look very thin. There’s no danger of that with the new handset, and they’re always easy to read. However, on the other hand, I’m not completely sold on the shape. Of course, it’s purely a subjective opinion, but I can’t help but feel like the sharp angles of the hour hand don’t quite match the blunter, less aggressive shape of the minute hand. But, my own design tastes aside, I think that the dial of the Sandhurst is a great take on the classic field watch aesthetic.

The C65 Sandhurst Has Specifications Befitting A Military Watch

As befits a watch bearing the heraldic badge of the British Army on its underside, the C65 Sandhurst has all the specifications you need in a field watch. It features a screw-down crown and is water-resistant to 150m, as well as a boxed sapphire crystal. The use of a boxed crystal is a nice touch, as it mimics the old acrylic crystal on the Smiths W10 whilst offering improved scratch resistance.

Now, one of the biggest improvements that Christopher Ward made to the Series 2 Sandhurst over the Series 1 is the lume. The watch uses some of the newest grades of Super-LumiNova and as a result, the watch is markedly more legible in the dark than the original model.

The last aspect of the specifications to discuss is the movement. Ticking away inside the Sandhurst is a COSC-certified Sellita SW200-1. As a certified chronometer, the movement is guaranteed to be accurate to between -4 and +6 seconds a day, and that high level of accuracy is perfect for a military-inspired watch. Besides that, the SW200 is one of the main Swiss movements in use today, and most of us are familiar with its specifications. But, for those who aren’t, the movement has 26 jewels, a 36-hour power reserve, and a beat rate of 28,800 bph.

Final Thoughts

All in all, I think that the Sandhurst perfectly represents why Christopher Ward has been so successful in the watch industry. For a watch that costs £1,050 or $1,080 on a bracelet, you certainly get an awful lot for your money. The fit and finish are exceptional and are certainly among the very best I’ve seen at this price point. As to the C65 Sandhurst’s specifications, the watch has pretty much everything you need in a “go anywhere, do anything” watch, with solid water resistance, decent lume, a sapphire crystal, and of course that chronometer-certified movement.

Which just leaves the design as the deciding factor for whether or not this watch is for you. Of course, we all have different tastes, but personally, I think that Christopher Ward has done a good job with the design of the Sandhurst. Sure, it doesn’t really break the mould when it comes to field watch design, but I think that there are enough small details on the watch to stop it from being boring. And, because of that, I think that the C65 Sandhurst is a very versatile watch that can be dressed up or down to suit you.

If you like the look of the C65 Sandhurst Series 2, you can buy one from Christopher Ward’s website here.

The post The Christopher Ward C65 Sandhurst Series 2 – A Fantastic Value Proposition appeared first on 12&60.

Buy the Tudor Pelagos 39 at Goldsmiths.

What Makes The Pelagos 39 So Special?

If you’re wondering why there’s so much fuss about the Pelagos 39, it all comes down to its dimensions. For many people, myself included, the older Pelagos model is too chunky, with a case that is 42mm wide and 14.3mm thick. In comparison, the Pelagos 39 is infinitely more wearable, with a 39mm case, a 47mm lug-to-lug, and a thickness of 11.8mm. 

These measurements are a sweet spot for a lot of people, which is one of the reasons that people are so excited by this release. You might remember that this is exactly the same situation as when Tudor first released the Black Bay 58 in 2018. Whilst a lot of people liked the design of the Heritage Black Bay, they found it a bit large and a bit thick. So, when the BB58 came out with the same design in a slimmer, slightly smaller case, people went crazy for it. The sizing of the Pelagos 39 is also very similar to that of the old Tudor Submariners, which along with the overall design, is one of the reasons it’s being touted as a modern Tudor Sub. Plus, as the case and bracelet are made from grade 2 titanium, the watch is of course exceptionally light, which only helps improve its wearability. 

Whilst the case shape is virtually identical to that seen on the larger Pelagos, the case on the Pelagos 39 has chamfered undersides that help make the watch look even thinner, as well as making the watch slightly more comfortable to wear.

You get two strap choices with the Pelagos 39. The first option is the titanium oyster bracelet, which features Tudor’s T-Fit clasp. It’s quite a large clasp, but I don’t find it overly big. Plus, the T-Fit system offers 8mm of on-the-fly micro-adjustment across 5 positions, which really helps you to get the perfect fit. There’s also a diver’s extension so that you can wear the watch over a wetsuit, should you actually want to dive with it. 

You also get a complimentary rubber strap with the watch, that uses the end links from the bracelet. The rubber is very soft and exceedingly comfortable, and I have a hard time deciding whether I prefer this strap or the bracelet. However, whilst I think both the standard strap options are great, I’ll still want to try the watch on some aftermarket straps. The only fly in the ointment is that the lug width is 21mm, a somewhat unusual and frustrating choice by Tudor. 

A Familiar Design

Now whilst its design is pretty similar to that of the larger Pelagos, the Pelagos 39 isn’t just a downsized version of the older model. The new model retains the toolish all-brushed case finish seen across the entire Pelagos range, but changes up the other elements enough to make the watch feel fresh. 

For starters the ceramic bezel insert has a sunray finish that offers some interesting light play, changing from black to grey depending on the light. The dial has a sunburst finish too, but it’s incredibly subtle and it’s therefore barely noticeable. That’s not a criticism though, because it keeps the Pelagos 39 looking like a no-nonsense diver, whilst enhancing the colour of the dial just a little bit. 

When it comes to the applied hour markers, on the one hand, they’re pretty boring because they’re just white blocks, but what’s cool about them is that they’re made from a luminous ceramic composite. The snowflake handset is painted white to match them, and the result is a high-contrast dial that’s just what you want on a serious dive watch. 

The rehaut has also been simplified over the one seen on the 42mm Pelagos, and it no longer has the hour markers cutting into it. However, it’s still sloped, and with the minute track printed along it, it helps add some depth to an otherwise simple dial. 

Another change that’s sure to be popular is a reduction in the amount of dial text, from five lines at six o’clock on the 42mm Pelagos to four on the 39. Four lines are still quite a lot, but by making the word “Pelagos” a vibrant cherry red, Tudor has made the dial feel more balanced, and the pop of colour is a welcome addition to the otherwise monochrome watch. 

The Pelagos 39 Vs. The Black Bay 58

Of course, given how similar in size the Pelagos 39 is to the Black Bay 58, and that both watches are divers, a lot of people are comparing the two. And, whilst in many ways they do fill the same niche, I feel that they each give off very different vibes. With its domed crystal, polished surfaces, and gold accents, the Black Bay 58 of course feels vintage, but also quite dressy. In comparison, the Pelagos 39, with its monochrome colour scheme and brushed finish, feels very contemporary and toolish. In my opinion, both watches are approaching the same role from different angles and, though there are a lot of similarities between the two, they couldn’t feel more different from one another. 

The Specifications Of The Pelagos 39

When it comes to the specifications of the Pelagos 39 it’s obviously a very capable dive watch. The biggest talking point around the watch’s specifications is that in order to achieve the thinner case, Tudor has omitted the helium escape valve found on the larger Pelagos, and lowered the depth rating from 500m to 200m. It’s a change that makes no practical difference to 99.9% of people, and if the trade-off for a more wearable case size was a lower water resistance then that’s a sacrifice I’m willing to make.  

On top of that, the Pelagos has the usual features you expect to see on a diver, with a flat sapphire crystal, and a screw-down crown. The unidirectional bezel has 60 clicks and the action is buttery smooth. As with the Pelagos FXD, both the crown and bezel edge have been redesigned to feature more aggressive knurling that makes them easier to manipulate, and the bezel is slightly wider than the case for the same reason. The lume is absolutely fantastic and lasts for ages. If I had to nitpick I would say that as the markers are solid blocks of lume, they charge more easily than the hands, but overall the dial is still really easy to read in the dark. 

Inside the Pelagos 39 is Tudor’s calibre MT5400, an automatic movement with 27-jewels, a 4Hz beat rate, and a non-magnetic silicon balance spring. The movement also features a 70-hour power reserve and is a COSC-certified chronometer. In fact, Tudor regulates the movement to be better than COSC standards, and they state that the movement will be accurate to within -2 and +4 seconds per day. 

Final Thoughts

Though I’m unashamedly a Tudor fanboy, if you read my review of the Tudor Ranger you’ll know that I’m not afraid to call the brand out when I think that they’ve made a mistake. But fortunately, the Pelagos 39 is a complete home run for the brand in my opinion. 

It offers all the functionality the average person would need in a diver, in an extremely sleek and versatile size that’s going to appeal to a wide range of people. On top of that, the design is channelling the spirit of the vintage Tudor Subs, and for all intents and purposes acts as a successor to those classic models.

Lastly, I realise I haven’t mentioned the price yet. The Pelagos 39 is £3500, or $4,400USD, which is only £500 more than the Black Bay 58. Given that the Pelagos offers a ceramic bezel, titanium construction, and a T-Fit clasp, I’d say that’s a very fair price indeed. All of which is why I’d go so far as to say that this is probably the brand’s biggest release since the original Black Bay 58.

You can read more about the Pelagos 39 on Tudor’s website here.

Buy the Tudor Pelagos 39 at Goldsmiths.

The post The Tudor Pelagos 39 – The Tudor Sub We’ve All Been Waiting For? appeared first on 12&60.

Nezumi was founded by David Campo, who spent 20 years as a designer and a creative director in the fashion industry. It’s therefore safe to say that David knows a thing or two about good design, and he’s used Nezumi to bring to life the ideas that he didn’t want to give away to clients. For example, Nezumi’s first project was a collection of Swedish-made selvedge denim jeans. David ran the business by himself for the first 8 years, before realising that in order to grow he needed to expand the team, a realisation that has led the brand to where it is today.

Traditionally the brand has stuck to using quartz movements in its chronographs, but as 2021 marked the company’s ten-year anniversary Nezumi wanted to release something special. That special something was the Voiture VM1S, the brand’s first mechanical chronograph. There are three dial options to choose from, cream, black, and blue, each of which is limited to 100 units. The Voiture VM1S has a retail price of €1,427 (approximately £1,203) excluding VAT.

As you can see, the model Nezumi sent me for this review is the blue one, which fortunately happens to be my favourite out of the three colours. 

A Curvy Case 

The case of the Voiture is vaguely reminiscent of a Speedy, with lyre lugs and a raised fixed bezel. It measures 40mm across, with a lug length of 47mm, and a thickness of 14.5mm. On paper, the watch sounds pretty thick, but this is where the case shape comes into its own. The design has a lot of curves and angles to it that help break up the watch’s silhouette, and make it look thinner than it really is. This is further helped by the fact that the finish alternates between brushed and polished, which also makes it feel that little bit more sophisticated. 

As a result, the Voiture actually wears really nicely, and I think that it’s an ideal well-rounded size. One positive thing about the thickness is that it gives the watch a bit of presence, which is something those with thicker wrists will appreciate. The watch also has a nice bit of heft to it, and whilst weight doesn’t equate to quality, it does help to create a positive perception of the watch.

As a racing chronograph style watch, the Voiture only comes with a 50m depth rating, which means it’s inadvisable to take it swimming. More water resistance would be nice, but given the style of the watch, I don’t consider it a failing on Nezumi’s part. After all, not every watch needs to be a diver! 

The Voiture comes on a jubilee style bracelet, which dresses the watch up a bit, as well as being exceedingly comfortable. The small links mould to the wrist perfectly, and the quality of them is great. However, the clasp is the one thing that lets the bracelet down. It’s a standard cheap-looking foldover clasp that locks using friction. Given the price point of the watch, I’d have liked it if the clasp had a more streamlined design and a push-button lock. 

An Awesome Dial Design

Now I must admit that I think Nezumi have done an absolutely cracking job with the dial of the Voiture. The design is meant to be inspired by 1970s racing watches, and that’s something that definitely comes across. However, the Voiture doesn’t feel like a homage, and the design looks distinctly original whilst incorporating a few tasteful retro touches. 

I really have to applaud Nezumi’s use of colour on this watch, as I think that goes a long way to establishing the Seventies vibe. Whilst the watch has two shades of blue, cream, and orange, it doesn’t feel as though there’s too much going on. Each colour is used just enough to add something to the design, without overpowering the watch as a whole. The dial has a matte finish too, which certainly helps stop the colours from being overpowering. 

The dial also has a nice bit of depth to it, thanks to the combination of sunken sub-dials and applied markers. Meanwhile, the square-tipped baton handset is just like those found on vintage chronographs, and the dual finish on them helps to make them visually interesting as well as legible. 

I also think that the bezel is really well executed. The aluminium insert has a delightful rich blue hue against which the silver print of the tachymeter scale really pops. The addition of the “10th Anniversary” print to the top of the bezel is another nice subtle touch. David actually hand drew the tachymeter scale himself too, so as to give it a more unique vintage look. Furthermore, there’s a polished steel ring around the inside of the bezel, which sets the blue insert off nicely. 

A final vintage touch is that the Voiture uses a double-domed sapphire crystal, with an anti-reflective coating on the inside. The result of all this is that the Voiture certainly looks funky, but it’s certainly not goofy. It manages to be fun, but also functional, and the overall design is still clean and legible. 

When I first got the Voiture, I was worried that there wasn’t enough lume on it for me to be able to read it in the dark. Fortunately, I was wrong, and the watch is actually quite easy to read at night. Lume is one area that often gets overlooked on watches that don’t use too much of it, and I have to give credit to Nezumi for making sure that’s not the case with the Voiture. 

A Good Choice Of Movement

One of my pet peeves is when brands insist on using an automatic chronograph movement that then results in an exceptionally thick watch, so I’m pleased to see Nezumi opt for a manual wind movement in the Voiture. The exact movement Nezumi went with is the reliable Sellita SW510 Mb manual wind chronograph. It has 27 jewels, a 4Hz beat rate, and a 48-hour power reserve. The SW510 is the perfect choice for those who want a Swiss-made chronograph without breaking the bank, and it should prove an excellent timekeeper. 

Final Thoughts

So, in summary, I think that Nezumi has absolutely nailed the Voiture, and the only thing I’d actually change about it would be the clasp. Everything else comes together perfectly to make a watch that channels the funky aesthetics of the Seventies, whilst also looking clean and contemporary. The proportions are spot on, and whilst the watch could always be a bit thinner, Nezumi has done a good job of using the case design to mask the thickness. 

It’s not just the design that’s good though. The Voiture is very well made and the overall finishing of the watch is excellent. Whilst it is hardly cheap, with a retail price of £1200 plus VAT, I believe that the watch is priced pretty well for a Swiss mechanical chronograph, and I think that Nezumi has done more than enough to justify the price tag. 

You can purchase the Voiture VM1S from Nezumi’s website here.

The post The Nezumi Voiture VM1S – A Perfect Blend Of Modern And Retro Style appeared first on 12&60.

Fortunately, there’s one brand that’s taken note of how finicky watch nerds can be, and is doing something to address that. That brand is Laco, and with their latest Flieger Pro collection, they’ve created an online configurator that lets you build your perfect pilot’s watch. 

If you don’t know much about Laco, the German brand was founded in 1925 and is one of five manufacturers that made watches for the Luftwaffe during the Second World War. This makes Laco one of the original producers of the Flieger, and it’s a heritage that they capitalise on, with the majority of their catalogue being aviation-themed. I’m aware that the fact Laco’s watches were used by the Luftwaffe might be problematic for some people, but it’s not something I want to explore in this review. Many companies have been party to terrible events in the past, and I feel like how that influences our perception of them in the present is a broader discussion for another time. 

All The Choices You Have With The Flieger Pro

Getting back to the watches, Laco launched their Flieger Pro collection late in 2021, and there are literally thousands of combinations, which makes this something of a watch nerd’s dream. For starters, Laco offers three choices of case size – 37mm, 40mm, and 43mm. Whichever size you chose, you have the choice of either a brushed or blasted case finish, and either a display or closed case back. There’s also the option to have the crown on either the left or right side of the watch. 

For the movement, you can have either the automatic Sellita SW200-1 or the manual wind SW210. Once you’ve chosen which you then need to decide whether or not you want the Elaboré or Top Grade version of the movement. You also get to choose whether or not you want a date window, and whether you want a black or white date wheel. And, as a final touch, you can opt for either a plain or decorated movement. 

For the dial, you can have either a Type A or Type B dial, and you can choose to have it either with the Laco logo or sterile. Last but not least you can choose whether or not to have an anti-reflective coating on both sides of the sapphire crystal or just on the inside. 

All in all, there are over 14,000 combinations, and with such a plethora of options, it’s apparent that Laco has made a real effort to offer something for everyone. Of course, there are surcharges for many of the options, such as a larger case or better movement, but that’s to be expected. With so many options the price can vary significantly, and the cost of a Laco Flieger Pro can be anywhere between  $1,140 and $1,810. 

The Quality Of A Laco Flieger Pro

By this point, you might be thinking “this all sounds great, but what’s the quality of the watch like?” Well, Laco were kind enough to send me a sample to try out.

The sample Laco sent me is a 40mm version of the Karlsruhe Pro, which is the Type B dial variant. It has a very reasonable lug length of 47.5mm and it’s also very slim, being just 11.35mm thick. These dimensions will be a sweet spot for many people, and unsurprisingly I found the Flieger Pro to wear very nicely indeed. There’s not much to say about the case design, other than that the finishing is very well done, and that the screw-down onion crown is very tactile and easy to grip. On the left side of the watch is engraved the serial number FL23883, which is the item code given to the original Fliegers. It’s also worth noting that whilst this is a pilot’s watch, it has a 200m depth rating, so you don’t need to worry about getting it wet. 

This particular sample comes with a display case back through which you can view the reliable Top Grade Sellita SW200 movement. When a movement is nicely decorated like this one, it’s always a joy to be able to see it ticking away. 

A Look At The Dial

The problem with pilot’s watches is that they all follow a rigid design language. The dial is the best example of this, and the dial of this Flieger Pro is the classic “Type B” layout that’s found on many other pilot’s watches. It features an exaggerated minute track that takes centre-stage, with the hour markers relegated to a smaller scale towards the centre of the dial. Because it’s nearly identical to many other pilot’s watches, you have to look very closely at the details to see what sets this Laco apart.

The dial print is practically flawless and exceptionally crisp. There’s also a healthy application of C3 Super-Luminova, so the watch glows surprisingly brightly in the dark. The date window at three has a bevelled edge that frames the date perfectly and stops it from looking like an afterthought. However, the nicest feature of the Flieger Pro is undoubtedly the thermally-blued handset. Its flawless polished surface catches the light from every angle and has a rich blue colour that varies significantly in shade depending on the lighting. 

The calfskin leather strap the Flieger Pro comes on is nice and thick, but it’s also supple enough to mould to your wrist, which makes it pretty comfortable. 

Final Thoughts

It’s at this point that I must admit I have a confession to make. I’m not a big fan of Fliegers. And I think that’s because they’re just a bit too sterile for my tastes. However, at the same time, I can appreciate a good watch when I see one, and Laco is a brand that I feel deserves a lot more love. It’s got some fantastic heritage and what it’s done with the Flieger Pro collection is pretty impressive. 

There are very few brands that offer such a high level of customisation, let alone at this quality, and the sheer amount of options means that anyone should be able to build their perfect Flieger. The only stumbling block I can see is that these watches are hardly cheap, but as I hope I’ve demonstrated here, I think you get what you pay for.

You can view all the configurable options for the Flieger Pro on Laco’s website here.

The post Why The Laco Flieger Pro Is The Perfect Pilot’s Watch appeared first on 12&60.

Buy the Tudor Ranger 79950 at Goldsmiths.

I was fortunate enough to be offered to spend some time with one on the launch day, and when I got the call I excitedly rushed in as fast as I could to see it. But when I held the watch in my hand, I must admit I felt very underwhelmed. Which is a real shame, because there’s a lot to like about this watch, and with a price of £2,420 on the steel bracelet, it’s a pretty tempting value proposition. 

A Brief History Of The Tudor Ranger

This new Tudor Ranger, reference 79950, is the latest in a long line of watches to bear the name. The name “Ranger” was actually first registered by Tudor’s founder Hans Wilsdorf in 1929, and it was used to lend a sporty feel to various watches in subsequent years. The first dedicated Ranger model was released in the 1960s, but this new release was timed to coincide with the 70th anniversary of the start of the British North Greenland Expedition. On the wrists of the expedition members were Tudor’s then newly-released Oyster Prince watches, and for the next two years, these watches would provide accurate timekeeping for their owners. Tudor says that it’s in honour of this adventurous spirit that they are launching the new Ranger. 

How The Tudor Ranger Feels On The Wrist 

The new Tudor Ranger features a 39mm steel case with an all-brushed finish, apart from the bezel’s edge, which is polished. It’s also just 12mm thick and has a 47mm lug length so it wears pretty well if a little large thanks to the fixed bezel and wide dial. 

I’m aware that there are a lot of people, myself included, that would have liked to have seen Tudor use a smaller case size for the Ranger. However, I don’t think Tudor necessarily made a mistake by going with a larger case, because there’s an equally vocal group who were sad to see Rolex discontinue the 39mm Explorer. Not to mention that for those with larger wrists 36mm is just too small a size. I think at the end of the day we all just have to accept that some watches will be too big or small for us, but will be just right for others. 

Now, on the flip side, many people will be pleased to see that the bracelet on the new Ranger doesn’t feature fake rivets, and it’s instead a much more streamlined oyster-style with a brushed finish. It also has Tudor’s T-fit clasp, which offers on-the-fly micro-adjustment of up to 8mm. These changes are very welcome upgrades over the previous generation of bracelets, which didn’t have any half links, and had very limited micro-adjustment, which made it quite difficult to find a comfortable fit.  

The Tudor Ranger’s Specifications

Overall, the new Tudor Ranger feels very toolish, and it’s got the specs to back it up. The watch has a screw-down crown, 100m of water resistance, and a domed sapphire crystal. The dial and handset are of course lumed, and whilst they perhaps don’t glow as brightly as on some of Tudor’s other watches, it’s still easy to read in the dark. 

Powering the Ranger is Tudor’s MT5402 movement. This automatic calibre is the same one that’s used in the Black Bay 58, and it features a non-magnetic silicon balance spring, a 4Hz beat rate, and a 70-hour power reserve. The movement is also a COSC-certified chronometer, and Tudor has regulated it to be accurate to within -2 and +4 seconds per day. Realistically, the Ranger offers everything the average user needs in a watch, and it’s good to see Tudor continuing to forgo third-party movements in favour of in-house calibres. 

Why The Tudor Ranger Isn’t For Me

The layout of the dial is essentially unchanged from the original Ranger’s design, with large printed 12, 3, 6, and 9 numerals and baton indices. The handset is very similar to the original too, with a distinctive shovel-shaped hour hand that’s synonymous with the Ranger. The seconds hand has a red tip too, which adds a nice pop of colour. It’s a layout that’s exceptionally clean and legible, which is just what you want in a tool watch. 

However, for me, the dial is the biggest disappointment about the Ranger. It’s not that I don’t like the broad design, it’s just that I don’t like its execution. To me, the design just looks incredibly bland and lazy. There’s no detail that draws the eye or indicates that this is a high-end watch. The print and handset are just too simple, and I think that as a result, the watch looks as though any homage brand could have made it. 

In response to that, some people have said things like “of course it’s plain, it’s supposed to be a functional watch”, or that “it’s meant to fly under the radar”, and of course, that “it’s a faithful reissue of an old design.” 

And those are all valid points. But, I think you can achieve all that and still have a more interesting dial. Take the current Rolex Explorer for example. It’s instantly recognizable as being a derivative of the original 1016, but it’s been refined over the years with the addition of things like applied numerals, and a gloss black dial, that elevate the design and bring it up to date without compromising its legibility. 

And that’s what I think is lacking from the new Ranger. In my opinion, the dial is crying out for a few small details that show why Tudor is better than the myriad of cheaper alternatives. For example, they could have given the markers a white border or made them 3D blocks of lume like the Black Bay Pro has. Or they could have given the surface of the hands a rounded finish so that they catch the light in a more interesting way. Those are just a few examples, but hopefully, you understand where I’m coming from and why I feel so underwhelmed by the dial. 

Final Thoughts

Now, despite my own feelings towards the Tudor Ranger, I’m not trying to say that you shouldn’t get the watch. Design is a very subjective thing, and if the design of the new Ranger is one that you really like then my own thoughts on it are irrelevant.

Even though this watch isn’t for me, there’s an awful lot that Tudor got right with the new Ranger. Its size is one that appeals to many, and it offers a great alternative to anyone who misses the 39mm Explorer, or who just likes larger watches. 

The brushed finish and clean design give the Ranger a very functional no-fuss aesthetic that sets it apart from Tudor’s other watches, and the specifications of the watch are very good. Features like the T-fit clasp and in-house movement, combined with the quality of Tudor’s finishing make this something of a no-brainer at this price point. 

Which is perhaps why I’m so gutted that the new Ranger doesn’t excite me. But a design can’t please everyone, and if it does take your fancy then I’d say you can’t really go wrong with the Ranger. 

The Tudor Ranger is available now from authorised dealers, and you can read more about it on Tudor’s website here. 

Buy the Tudor Ranger 79950 at Goldsmiths.

The post The Tudor Ranger 79950 – My Biggest Disappointment Of 2022 appeared first on 12&60.

But, each time I’ve seen one in person, it’s grown on me to the point where I’m actually considering getting one. And the reason that I’ve grown to quite like the Pelagos FXD is that it’s so much nicer in the flesh than Tudor’s marketing suggests. 

How The Pelagos FXD Wears

Take the wearability for example. On paper, the watch is rather large at 42mm wide with a whopping 52mm lug length, but that last measurement is misleading. The lug length is taken from the centre of the fixed spring bars, with the actual distance between the lug tips being a slightly more manageable 50mm. And at 12.75mm thick, it’s actually pretty slim. This means that whilst the FXD is still a large watch, it actually wears quite nicely, and even I can pull it off with my puny 6.25-inch wrists. Another thing that helps with the watch’s wearability is that the case is fashioned from titanium, with a steel case back, so the watch is exceptionally lightweight.

Two Straps For The Price Of One

And, whilst we’re talking about wearability, let’s take a look at the straps the Pelagos FXD comes with. For better or worse, the 22mm fixed spring bars on the FXD mean that it doesn’t come on a metal bracelet like the other Pelagos models. Instead, you get two one-piece straps – one fabric and the other rubber. 

Both are very comfortable and of fantastic quality, but I must admit that I’m not keen on either. Both straps are too long for my small wrists, which leaves me with a lot of excess tail I can’t do anything with. The fabric strap is secured by velcro, which is something I’m not that keen on. I know it’s a matter of personal taste, but I think the fastening looks quite untidy. Personally, I’d put the Pelagos FXD on either a grey NATO or a green and yellow “Marine Nationale” strap, as I think both of those would simply look nicer. 

Continuing A Long Tradition

The overall design is also something you can’t really appreciate from Tudor’s press images, and I think the watch looks a lot better in the metal than it does on their website. But before we talk about that, let’s talk about the story behind why the Pelagos FXD exists in the first place. I won’t give you an exhaustive history but, if you didn’t already know, Tudor has a long history of supplying watches to the Marine Nationale. The relationship between the two began way back in 1956 when Tudor sent its first-ever dive watches in for evaluation. The watches were judged to be perfect, and so Tudor became an official supplier to the Marine Nationale from 1961 right up until the mid-1980s.

The Pelagos FXD is the first watch since then that Tudor has supplied to the Marine Nationale, and the cool thing about it is that the French Navy’s elite Commando Hubert unit actually had input on its design. As a result, the FXD isn’t just a normal watch that’s had a military connection slapped on it, but a proper purpose-built military watch. 

A Military-Approved Design

The most obvious military influence is the fixed spring bars that give the Pelagos FXD its name. Whilst they severely limit the strap choices for the watch, they do prevent the watch from being lost during use, which is pretty crucial if you’re a navy swimmer relying on the FXD for timekeeping

The bezel has also been redesigned to suit the Marine Nationale’s needs of aiding swimmers in underwater navigation. It’s bidirectional, with the numerals on the ceramic insert being reversed so that they count down, rather than up. The prominent teeth on the Pelagos FXD’s bezel also make it extremely easy to grip, and the action is as crisp as you’d expect from Tudor.

Something that I know did irk fans of the standard Pelagos is that the FXD dropped the 500m depth rating and helium escape valve of the standard model in favour of a more average 200m. For me, it’s a complete non-issue, as I’ll never need more than a 200m depth rating, and I prefer the thinner case that resulted from the change.  

The dial and handset are very similar to that of the standard Pelagos, but there’s no date window and the hour markers don’t cut into the rehaut. What’s left is a simple and highly legible dial, protected by a flat sapphire crystal. The handset and markers have a matte finish that provides excellent contrast, and which perfectly demonstrates the practical nature of the FXD. And as for the the lume? Well, that’s naturally excellent too.

Now, something else I really like about the Pelagos FXD is the shade of blue it uses. It might sound silly, but I think that the blue used on the standard Pelagos is too bright and that it cheapens the look of the watch. On the other hand, the blue on the FXD is a darker shade that’s closer to the colour of the BB58 Blue. The more muted colour suits the functional nature of the watch and helps give the Pelagos FXD its excellent legibility. 

The Pelagos FXD’s Movement

Beneath the dial lies Tudor’s calibre MT5602. This in-house automatic movement has an impressive 70-hour power reserve, a 4Hz beat rate, and a silicon balance spring. Furthermore, the movement is COSC-certified, so it will be accurate to -4/+6 seconds per day. In short, it offers everything you could expect from a movement at this price point. 

Final Thoughts

Of course, despite all things I like about the Pelagos FXD, I’m under no illusions as to why it exists. And that’s that Tudor obviously chose to rekindle their relationship with the Marine Nationale for commercial benefit. I think we all know that the French Navy didn’t need Tudor to make them this watch. At the end of the day, this is still a luxury product that Tudor created because they know that a watch made for the French Navy will appeal to us watch enthusiasts. 

Well, they’re completely right. However, that doesn’t stop the FXD from being a true purpose-built military watch. That’s why it looks somewhat quirky and unconventional, and it’s also why I’ve grown to love the slightly odd design. This is a proper tool watch that’s designed for a specific purpose, and it makes absolutely zero concessions for the sake of aesthetics or convention. 

And, as a result of that, the Pelagos FXD has everything I could need in a diver. It’s accurate, highly legible, and lightweight. Plus with the fixed bars I’ll never have to worry about losing it. And, with a retail price of £3,000 or $3,900, it’s pretty well priced in comparison to Tudor’s other watches, being about 18% cheaper than the standard Pelagos. So, whilst I feel that it’s important to acknowledge the commercial reality behind this watch, it’s still a fitting successor to the original Marine Nationale submariners, and I still really want one. 

You can read more about the Pelagos FXD on Tudor’s website here. 

The post The Tudor Pelagos FXD – A Pure Tool Watch Through And Through appeared first on 12&60.

For me, Nivada Grenchen’s demise was one of the great losses of the Quartz Crisis. Which is why I was absolutely thrilled when the brand was revived back in 2018. Whilst I’m not aware of any connection to the original brand besides the name, the new Nivada Grenchen understands the importance of making use of the heritage of that name. 

As such, its models are all near-exact reissues of classic Nivada Grenchen watches. One of my favourites is the Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver, which is available in a mind-boggling array of dial options, and with the choice of either a manual or automatic movement. So when Nivada got in touch to offer me a watch in exchange for reviewing it, I had a hard time choosing which to go for!  

In the end, I opted for the Orange Boy “SL” with a manual-wind movement on a beads of rice bracelet, the retail price for which is CHF1,795. This translates to approximately £1,481 or $,1843 at the time of writing. 

A Classic Case Size 

As I mentioned earlier, the watch is a near-exact reissue of the original Nivada Chronomaster, which includes the case being the same 38mm size as the original. This is considered small for modern chronographs, but it’s a key reason the Chronomaster feels like an authentically vintage watch. The bezel is actually slightly wider than the case too, which adds another millimetre to the size. The lug-to-lug is a pretty reasonable 46.5mm, which means the watch doesn’t feel tiny on the wrist. However, it’s still not a big watch, and if you’ve got large wrists you might find the Chronomaster a bit small for you. 

The reason I chose the manual wind version is because it’s just over a millimetre thinner than the automatic Chronomaster, and it measures a very reasonable 13.8mm including the crystal. A lot of brands insist on making their mechanical chronographs automatic, which makes them very thick, so I’m pleased to see Nivada offering both options. 

The beads of rice bracelet is pretty comfortable, and it helps reinforce the Chronomaster’s vintage look. The links are held in place by screws, which makes the bracelet easy to size, though they still feature the directional arrows for pins. This caused me some confusion when I initially got the watch, and it took me a while to realise why the pins weren’t coming out. 

The clasp is just a simple pressed foldover type, and whilst it’s period-correct, I would have preferred to see a more modern (and higher quality) clasp instead. However, this is a small gripe in the grand scheme of things, and it really doesn’t diminish my overall love of the watch. The lugs are also drilled, which allows you to swap out the strap with ease, should you get bored of the bracelet. 

A Look At The Dial

The dial sits beneath a domed sapphire crystal that matches the aesthetics of the acrylic used on the original, whilst offering vastly improved scratch resistance. The dial itself is clean and uncluttered, which makes it very easy to read. In fact, its simplicity hides the multitude of functions built into the watch that gives it its convoluted name. 

Firstly, there’s the chronograph, which can track up to thirty minutes using the bright orange central seconds hand and the sub-dial at three o’clock, the sub-dial at nine counting the running seconds. This is complemented by a tachymeter scale on the outside of the dial, and the minute track which has hash marks for fifths of a second. The sub-dial also has an eye-catching red segment to count down the first five minutes. It’s a feature that was originally designed for yachting, but which is somewhat redundant today. 

The bezel is a bidirectional friction bezel that rotates smoothly in either direction. Its aluminium insert features full 60-minute hash marks for tracking elapsed time up to an hour, as well as a small 12-hour scale for tracking a second time zone. The 12-hour scale isn’t the easiest to read, but it’s there should you need it. 

All this is complemented by a 100m depth rating that allows you to swim and snorkel with the Chronomaster, and a lumed dial and handset for legibility in the dark. The lume isn’t the brightest, but it should be adequate for daily wear.

A Solid Movement

When it comes to chronograph movements, the vast majority of watch enthusiasts prefer to see a watch using a mechanical movement, rather than a quartz one. The problem with this is that a mechanical chronograph can be quite expensive, and most affordable ones are powered by Chinese-made Seagull movements. 

For the Chronomaster Nivada chose to use the Sellita SW510 BH b. As I’ve said before, this calibre comes in both an automatic and a manual variation and features 27 jewels, a 4Hz beat rate, and a 48-hour power reserve. All of which makes the SW510 a solid choice of movement. Given that the Chronomaster costs just under £1,500 I think the use of a Sellita movement makes it a bargain for the price. 

Final Thoughts

In my opinion, the Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster is a near-perfect reissue of one of the most beautiful watches of the era. Nivada made the right decision by being as faithful to the original as they could, as the Chronomaster feels just like a 1960s watch that’s come straight from the factory. 

And at just under £1,500 for a mechanical Swiss chronograph, the Chronomaster also makes for a tempting value proposition. It’s got a decent set of specifications and wears extremely well on the wrist. That said, I’m sure many people would want to see the watch made a little bigger to account for modern tastes. However, I’m glad that Nivada resisted the temptation to do that, as it would have robbed the Chronomaster of what makes it so incredibly appealing to fans of vintage watches in the first place. This is a watch that knows exactly what it’s trying to be, and it doesn’t make any compromises in order to attract those who want something different. 

You can purchase the Chronomaster from Nivada Grenchen’s website here. 

Plus, you can use the code 12and60#strap to get one free strap when you purchase a watch. Just add your strap and watch to the cart first, and then enter the code at the checkout page to get the discount. 

The post The Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver – A Perfect Vintage Reissue appeared first on 12&60.

One of which is the 6105-8110 “Captain Willard”, a watch that was made famous by the film Apocalypse Now. In 2020 Seiko released an updated version of the watch, and since then they’ve produced several different models. 

Buy the Seiko Prospex Captain Willard SPB237J1 at Goldsmiths.

The version I’m looking at today is the Prospex SPB237J1 Captain Willard Re-Interpretation, which was kindly loaned to me by Francis & Gaye Jewellers. If you’re looking for a reliable authorised dealer in the UK then get in touch with them and they’ll be happy to take care of you. 

The watch retails for £1,220 or $1300USD, which is in line with the other Willard interpretations, but is still a lot more than some of the other dive watches in Seiko’s Prospex range. 

So let’s see if we can figure out why Seiko is asking that much for it. 

Exactly The Specifications You’d Expect

As you’d expect the SPB237J1 Willard is an ISO-certified dive watch, with 200m of water resistance, incredibly bright lume, and a unidirectional bezel with an aluminium insert. Somewhat unusually it doesn’t come on a steel bracelet, but it’s instead supplied with two NATO straps. 

On the surface, these features don’t do anything to explain the more premium price. Seiko certainly offers plenty of other divers with similar specs for less money. But, diving a little deeper, there are a few things that separate the SPB237J1 Willard from the cheaper models.  

For starters the case is covered with Seiko’s DiaShield coating, which offers improved scratch resistance over bare metal. And, instead of Seiko’s Hardlex mineral crystal, the watch has a more scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating.

The SPB237J1 Willard uses a 6R35 automatic movement, which is slightly better than Seiko’s entry-level 4R35. The 4R35 is rated to be accurate to a mere +45 to -35 seconds per day, and has an average 41-hour power reserve. In contrast, the 6R35 is accurate to +25 to -15 seconds per day, and has an impressive 70-hour power reserve. Whilst the accuracy of the 6R35 could do with improving, it’s still a higher specification movement than the 4R35. 

Whilst these features clearly put the SPB237J1 Willard at the higher end of the Prospex range, I don’t think they fully explain the watch’s cost. After all, there are plenty of other brands with affordable dive watches that have similar features. 

A Classic Design Reinvented

Which brings me on to the design of the SPB237. It’s naturally very close to that of the original Willard, and that carries with it a certain value. This watch gives you a chance to get an update of a classic Seiko design built to modern standards.  

The case is the same classic cushion shape as the original Willard, with the screw-down crown at four protected by some prominent crown guards. It’s a design that won’t be for everyone, but it’s what defines the Willard’s whole identity. At 42.7mm wide, the SPB237J1 is actually a bit smaller than the original Willard, which was 44mm. It also wears very nicely thanks to a decent lug to lug of 46.6mm, and a reasonable thickness of 13.2mm. Furthermore, the bezel is smaller than the case, measuring just 40.5mm wide. This makes the watch feel smaller on the wrist that the case dimensions would suggest, whilst still allowing it to have a good presence. 

Like the case, the dial layout is almost identical to the original Willard, but with a few modern tweaks. The indices have a very slight taper to them, and the lume is a light cream colour to replicate the patina seen on vintage watches. Unfortunately, the date window isn’t framed, as there isn’t any space thanks to a barely noticeable applied marker at the 3 o’clock position. 

The handset is fairly simple, but they have a split finish, with one side brushed and the other polished. This serves to create some interesting light play across the dial, and it helps take the watch’s finishing up a notch. 

Of course, the biggest difference on the SPB237J1 Willard is that grey dial with its bark-like texture. It’s somewhat reminiscent of the SPB143, and strikes a nice balance between playful and serious. It’s not as plain as the solid black Willard, but it’s not a gimmicky colourway either. 

As I mentioned earlier, the SPB237J1 Willard comes with two NATO straps – one green and one grey. These use a traditional Japanese braiding technique known as Seichu, which gives them a ribbed texture. The material is rather thick, so the watch sits quite tall on the wrist, and I would have preferred a single pass option. However, the nylon is comfortable to wear and feels very durable. The steel hardware is also very nice, though you should be aware that the keeper isn’t tall enough for you to tuck any excess material back on itself.  

Despite this I prefer the NATO’s to the bracelet offered on other models, as I find that can be a bit chunky. Meanwhile these NATO’s give the watch a strong military vibe, and can be swapped out easily for another strap whenever you fancy. 

The Price Of Heritage

Ultimately, I think that the main reason the SPB237J1 Willard costs so much is Seiko’s heritage. The brand has existed since 1881, and its watches have been worn prominently by actors and adventurers alike. As a result, the brand’s reputation precedes it, and it’s one of the brands us watch enthusiasts recommend most to those new to the hobby. 

But whilst a lot of us have traditionally thought of Seiko as a bang-for-your-buck brand, it has also started to leverage its classic designs to expand into higher ends of the market.

And in all honesty, I think that decision makes sense for them. Seiko built their reputation on tool watches, but those days are over, and now watches are practically just jewellery for a lot of people. On top of that, microbrands have massively changed the watch industry over the last five years. These days micros are able to offer great quality pieces at exceptionally low prices, and as a result of this the lower end of the market has become very crowded. 

By offering these reissues and reinterpretations with better specs at a higher price point, Seiko are switching who they’re competing against. Instead of those small microbrands, they’re against the entry-level Swiss watches, which is traditionally exactly who Seiko are strongest against.

Final Thoughts

Of course, whether or not you want to pay a bit more to get a watch from a brand of Seiko’s pedigree is entirely up to you. Personally I think that, whilst it’s not a strong value proposition, £1,220 isn’t a bad price for this watch considering the design’s heritage. And, whilst I know that’s a somewhat controversial opinion, I can’t help but think that if we were talking about a Swiss brand like Tudor, a lot more people wouldn’t have a problem with it. 

But, putting aside the price of the watch, the SPB237J1 is a great modern update to the Willard design that incorporates the best features that modern Seiko has to offer. Just like the original Willard, the watch is a capable diver that’s got a distinct and unmistakable aesthetic. It’s iconic, and I can’t help but feel attracted to the SPB237J1 Willard because of that.  

Thanks once again to Francis & Gaye for loaning the watch to us. You can purchase the Prospex SPB237J1 Captain Willard Re-Interpretation from their website here. 

Buy the Seiko Prospex Captain Willard SPB237J1 at Goldsmiths.

The post The Seiko Prospex SPB237J1 Captain Willard Re-Interpretation – Why Does It Cost So Much? appeared first on 12&60.

Buy the Tudor Back Bay 36 at Goldsmiths.

There’s just one problem. You can’t get hold of one. Steel Rolexes are as rare as hen’s teeth right now, and things don’t look like they’ll change any time soon. Plus, with a retail price of £5,700, the Explorer costs a fair chunk of change.

So whilst the die-hard Rolex fans would undoubtedly suggest saving and persevering to get the Explorer, the reality is that’s not always the practical choice. 

Some of us don’t want to play the waitlist game just to buy a watch, and some just aren’t comfortable spending nearly £6,000 on one. Whatever the reason, many of us have been left seeking an alternative to the Rolex Explorer. Something that can fill that niche for a “go anywhere, do anything” watch without you needing to sell a kidney to get it. 

And that’s where the Tudor Black Bay 36 comes in. I think it ticks pretty much all the boxes that the Explorer does but at the much more palatable price of £2,350.

The Perfect Explorer Size

The first box it ticks is the size. Just like the Explorer, the Black Bay 36 has a 36mm case. The lug to lug is just a touch bigger at 44mm compared to the 43mm of the Explorer 124270. What’s more, the Tudor is actually a millimeter thinner at 10.5mm thick. All this means that it wears really nicely on the wrist. It’s got enough presence that it doesn’t feel small, but it’s also thin enough that you can forget it’s there to begin with. 

The case shape is certainly reminiscent of the Explorer’s Oyster case too, which is another plus for anyone looking for an Explorer alternative. It features a screw-down crown, which helps give the Black Bay 36 a decent water resistance of 150m. 

Also, the finishing of the case is of the exceptional quality you’d expect from Tudor. The only problem is that when the polished surfaces are this nice, they pick up scratches really easily. 

A Look At The Bracelet

The bracelet is finished just as nicely and tapers from 19mm at the lugs to 16mm at the clasp. The odd lug width is a bit frustrating for putting the Black Bay 36 on any aftermarket straps, but I think that the watch suits the bracelet best anyway. The 19mm lug width also allows the lugs to be a bit chunkier, which helps give the watch a bit more presence on the wrist. 

The clasp is just as nice as the bracelet, and it features ceramic ball bearings to lock it into place. But it’s let down by the fact it only has three micro-adjustment positions. Combined with the lack of half-links, this can make it a bit difficult to find a comfortable size for your wrist. Given the Black Bay’s price point, I’d like to see the watch come with a quick micro-adjustment system. However, so far Tudor has only fitted this to its newest models, such as the Black Bay Pro. 

A Very Legible Watch

For me, one of the nicest things about the Black Bay 36 is its legibility. The dial follows the same classic Submariner layout as the rest of the Black Bay line, along with Tudor’s signature snowflake handset. 

Both the applied markers and the handset are packed with crisp white lume. This means that they really pop against the gloss black dial, which has an incredibly rich luster to it. I know that some people aren’t a fan of the snowflake handset, but the benefit of such a chunky hour hand is that it is incredibly easy to distinguish at a glance – a key bit of functionality for a true tool watch. 

There isn’t much text on the dial either, and it’s nice to see Tudor show some restraint here, given how much text is on other models like the Pelagos. I’m also a big fan of the fact the print is silver, as it adds a bit of detail to the dial that stops it from being one-dimensional. 

I’ve seen others criticize the Black Bay 36 for not having any anti-reflective coating on its sapphire crystal, but honestly, the contrast between the dial and handset is so good that I don’t think it needs it. 

The lume is just as impressive, and when charged it glows with a steady brightness that makes the watch a breeze to read in the dark.

The Movement

The movement inside the Black Bay 36 is Tudor’s Calibre T600. This automatic movement is either a Tudor-modified ETA 2824 or Sellita SW200 (the latter being a clone of the former). Tudor fit their own anti-shock protection and regulator, as well as regulating the movement in five positions. And, whilst the Black Bay 36 isn’t a certified chronometer, Tudor does state the watch will be accurate to chronometer standards. Tudor also offers a hefty five-year warranty with their watches, which is a great statement of their belief in their own products. 

Final Thoughts

To my mind, the Black Bay 36 is the perfect Rolex Explorer alternative. It fills exactly the same niche, and just like the Explorer it really nails that no-nonsense tool watch aesthetic. If anything, it’s actually more toolish than the current Rolex Explorer 124270. 

But that doesn’t mean that the Black Bay 36 isn’t equally at home when paired with a suit, and I think that its versatility is one of its best features. The polished bezel and case sides add just enough dressiness to smarten the watch up without making it too formal. 

It really is a great all-round everyday watch. It’s got a solid set of specifications to go with its refined looks, and the fact it’s from a brand as prestigious as Tudor just adds to its appeal. Few brands have the same history as Tudor, and the fact that it is an offshoot of Rolex makes the Black Bay 36 feel like a true alternative to the more expensive Explorer. You can read more about the Black Bay 36 on Tudor’s website here.

Buy the Tudor Back Bay 36 at Goldsmiths.

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