Buy the Tudor Pelagos 39 at Goldsmiths.

What Makes The Pelagos 39 So Special?

If you’re wondering why there’s so much fuss about the Pelagos 39, it all comes down to its dimensions. For many people, myself included, the older Pelagos model is too chunky, with a case that is 42mm wide and 14.3mm thick. In comparison, the Pelagos 39 is infinitely more wearable, with a 39mm case, a 47mm lug-to-lug, and a thickness of 11.8mm. 

These measurements are a sweet spot for a lot of people, which is one of the reasons that people are so excited by this release. You might remember that this is exactly the same situation as when Tudor first released the Black Bay 58 in 2018. Whilst a lot of people liked the design of the Heritage Black Bay, they found it a bit large and a bit thick. So, when the BB58 came out with the same design in a slimmer, slightly smaller case, people went crazy for it. The sizing of the Pelagos 39 is also very similar to that of the old Tudor Submariners, which along with the overall design, is one of the reasons it’s being touted as a modern Tudor Sub. Plus, as the case and bracelet are made from grade 2 titanium, the watch is of course exceptionally light, which only helps improve its wearability. 

Whilst the case shape is virtually identical to that seen on the larger Pelagos, the case on the Pelagos 39 has chamfered undersides that help make the watch look even thinner, as well as making the watch slightly more comfortable to wear.

You get two strap choices with the Pelagos 39. The first option is the titanium oyster bracelet, which features Tudor’s T-Fit clasp. It’s quite a large clasp, but I don’t find it overly big. Plus, the T-Fit system offers 8mm of on-the-fly micro-adjustment across 5 positions, which really helps you to get the perfect fit. There’s also a diver’s extension so that you can wear the watch over a wetsuit, should you actually want to dive with it. 

You also get a complimentary rubber strap with the watch, that uses the end links from the bracelet. The rubber is very soft and exceedingly comfortable, and I have a hard time deciding whether I prefer this strap or the bracelet. However, whilst I think both the standard strap options are great, I’ll still want to try the watch on some aftermarket straps. The only fly in the ointment is that the lug width is 21mm, a somewhat unusual and frustrating choice by Tudor. 

A Familiar Design

Now whilst its design is pretty similar to that of the larger Pelagos, the Pelagos 39 isn’t just a downsized version of the older model. The new model retains the toolish all-brushed case finish seen across the entire Pelagos range, but changes up the other elements enough to make the watch feel fresh. 

For starters the ceramic bezel insert has a sunray finish that offers some interesting light play, changing from black to grey depending on the light. The dial has a sunburst finish too, but it’s incredibly subtle and it’s therefore barely noticeable. That’s not a criticism though, because it keeps the Pelagos 39 looking like a no-nonsense diver, whilst enhancing the colour of the dial just a little bit. 

When it comes to the applied hour markers, on the one hand, they’re pretty boring because they’re just white blocks, but what’s cool about them is that they’re made from a luminous ceramic composite. The snowflake handset is painted white to match them, and the result is a high-contrast dial that’s just what you want on a serious dive watch. 

The rehaut has also been simplified over the one seen on the 42mm Pelagos, and it no longer has the hour markers cutting into it. However, it’s still sloped, and with the minute track printed along it, it helps add some depth to an otherwise simple dial. 

Another change that’s sure to be popular is a reduction in the amount of dial text, from five lines at six o’clock on the 42mm Pelagos to four on the 39. Four lines are still quite a lot, but by making the word “Pelagos” a vibrant cherry red, Tudor has made the dial feel more balanced, and the pop of colour is a welcome addition to the otherwise monochrome watch. 

The Pelagos 39 Vs. The Black Bay 58

Of course, given how similar in size the Pelagos 39 is to the Black Bay 58, and that both watches are divers, a lot of people are comparing the two. And, whilst in many ways they do fill the same niche, I feel that they each give off very different vibes. With its domed crystal, polished surfaces, and gold accents, the Black Bay 58 of course feels vintage, but also quite dressy. In comparison, the Pelagos 39, with its monochrome colour scheme and brushed finish, feels very contemporary and toolish. In my opinion, both watches are approaching the same role from different angles and, though there are a lot of similarities between the two, they couldn’t feel more different from one another. 

The Specifications Of The Pelagos 39

When it comes to the specifications of the Pelagos 39 it’s obviously a very capable dive watch. The biggest talking point around the watch’s specifications is that in order to achieve the thinner case, Tudor has omitted the helium escape valve found on the larger Pelagos, and lowered the depth rating from 500m to 200m. It’s a change that makes no practical difference to 99.9% of people, and if the trade-off for a more wearable case size was a lower water resistance then that’s a sacrifice I’m willing to make.  

On top of that, the Pelagos has the usual features you expect to see on a diver, with a flat sapphire crystal, and a screw-down crown. The unidirectional bezel has 60 clicks and the action is buttery smooth. As with the Pelagos FXD, both the crown and bezel edge have been redesigned to feature more aggressive knurling that makes them easier to manipulate, and the bezel is slightly wider than the case for the same reason. The lume is absolutely fantastic and lasts for ages. If I had to nitpick I would say that as the markers are solid blocks of lume, they charge more easily than the hands, but overall the dial is still really easy to read in the dark. 

Inside the Pelagos 39 is Tudor’s calibre MT5400, an automatic movement with 27-jewels, a 4Hz beat rate, and a non-magnetic silicon balance spring. The movement also features a 70-hour power reserve and is a COSC-certified chronometer. In fact, Tudor regulates the movement to be better than COSC standards, and they state that the movement will be accurate to within -2 and +4 seconds per day. 

Final Thoughts

Though I’m unashamedly a Tudor fanboy, if you read my review of the Tudor Ranger you’ll know that I’m not afraid to call the brand out when I think that they’ve made a mistake. But fortunately, the Pelagos 39 is a complete home run for the brand in my opinion. 

It offers all the functionality the average person would need in a diver, in an extremely sleek and versatile size that’s going to appeal to a wide range of people. On top of that, the design is channelling the spirit of the vintage Tudor Subs, and for all intents and purposes acts as a successor to those classic models.

Lastly, I realise I haven’t mentioned the price yet. The Pelagos 39 is £3500, or $4,400USD, which is only £500 more than the Black Bay 58. Given that the Pelagos offers a ceramic bezel, titanium construction, and a T-Fit clasp, I’d say that’s a very fair price indeed. All of which is why I’d go so far as to say that this is probably the brand’s biggest release since the original Black Bay 58.

You can read more about the Pelagos 39 on Tudor’s website here.

Buy the Tudor Pelagos 39 at Goldsmiths.

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Buy the Tudor Ranger 79950 at Goldsmiths.

I was fortunate enough to be offered to spend some time with one on the launch day, and when I got the call I excitedly rushed in as fast as I could to see it. But when I held the watch in my hand, I must admit I felt very underwhelmed. Which is a real shame, because there’s a lot to like about this watch, and with a price of £2,420 on the steel bracelet, it’s a pretty tempting value proposition. 

A Brief History Of The Tudor Ranger

This new Tudor Ranger, reference 79950, is the latest in a long line of watches to bear the name. The name “Ranger” was actually first registered by Tudor’s founder Hans Wilsdorf in 1929, and it was used to lend a sporty feel to various watches in subsequent years. The first dedicated Ranger model was released in the 1960s, but this new release was timed to coincide with the 70th anniversary of the start of the British North Greenland Expedition. On the wrists of the expedition members were Tudor’s then newly-released Oyster Prince watches, and for the next two years, these watches would provide accurate timekeeping for their owners. Tudor says that it’s in honour of this adventurous spirit that they are launching the new Ranger. 

How The Tudor Ranger Feels On The Wrist 

The new Tudor Ranger features a 39mm steel case with an all-brushed finish, apart from the bezel’s edge, which is polished. It’s also just 12mm thick and has a 47mm lug length so it wears pretty well if a little large thanks to the fixed bezel and wide dial. 

I’m aware that there are a lot of people, myself included, that would have liked to have seen Tudor use a smaller case size for the Ranger. However, I don’t think Tudor necessarily made a mistake by going with a larger case, because there’s an equally vocal group who were sad to see Rolex discontinue the 39mm Explorer. Not to mention that for those with larger wrists 36mm is just too small a size. I think at the end of the day we all just have to accept that some watches will be too big or small for us, but will be just right for others. 

Now, on the flip side, many people will be pleased to see that the bracelet on the new Ranger doesn’t feature fake rivets, and it’s instead a much more streamlined oyster-style with a brushed finish. It also has Tudor’s T-fit clasp, which offers on-the-fly micro-adjustment of up to 8mm. These changes are very welcome upgrades over the previous generation of bracelets, which didn’t have any half links, and had very limited micro-adjustment, which made it quite difficult to find a comfortable fit.  

The Tudor Ranger’s Specifications

Overall, the new Tudor Ranger feels very toolish, and it’s got the specs to back it up. The watch has a screw-down crown, 100m of water resistance, and a domed sapphire crystal. The dial and handset are of course lumed, and whilst they perhaps don’t glow as brightly as on some of Tudor’s other watches, it’s still easy to read in the dark. 

Powering the Ranger is Tudor’s MT5402 movement. This automatic calibre is the same one that’s used in the Black Bay 58, and it features a non-magnetic silicon balance spring, a 4Hz beat rate, and a 70-hour power reserve. The movement is also a COSC-certified chronometer, and Tudor has regulated it to be accurate to within -2 and +4 seconds per day. Realistically, the Ranger offers everything the average user needs in a watch, and it’s good to see Tudor continuing to forgo third-party movements in favour of in-house calibres. 

Why The Tudor Ranger Isn’t For Me

The layout of the dial is essentially unchanged from the original Ranger’s design, with large printed 12, 3, 6, and 9 numerals and baton indices. The handset is very similar to the original too, with a distinctive shovel-shaped hour hand that’s synonymous with the Ranger. The seconds hand has a red tip too, which adds a nice pop of colour. It’s a layout that’s exceptionally clean and legible, which is just what you want in a tool watch. 

However, for me, the dial is the biggest disappointment about the Ranger. It’s not that I don’t like the broad design, it’s just that I don’t like its execution. To me, the design just looks incredibly bland and lazy. There’s no detail that draws the eye or indicates that this is a high-end watch. The print and handset are just too simple, and I think that as a result, the watch looks as though any homage brand could have made it. 

In response to that, some people have said things like “of course it’s plain, it’s supposed to be a functional watch”, or that “it’s meant to fly under the radar”, and of course, that “it’s a faithful reissue of an old design.” 

And those are all valid points. But, I think you can achieve all that and still have a more interesting dial. Take the current Rolex Explorer for example. It’s instantly recognizable as being a derivative of the original 1016, but it’s been refined over the years with the addition of things like applied numerals, and a gloss black dial, that elevate the design and bring it up to date without compromising its legibility. 

And that’s what I think is lacking from the new Ranger. In my opinion, the dial is crying out for a few small details that show why Tudor is better than the myriad of cheaper alternatives. For example, they could have given the markers a white border or made them 3D blocks of lume like the Black Bay Pro has. Or they could have given the surface of the hands a rounded finish so that they catch the light in a more interesting way. Those are just a few examples, but hopefully, you understand where I’m coming from and why I feel so underwhelmed by the dial. 

Final Thoughts

Now, despite my own feelings towards the Tudor Ranger, I’m not trying to say that you shouldn’t get the watch. Design is a very subjective thing, and if the design of the new Ranger is one that you really like then my own thoughts on it are irrelevant.

Even though this watch isn’t for me, there’s an awful lot that Tudor got right with the new Ranger. Its size is one that appeals to many, and it offers a great alternative to anyone who misses the 39mm Explorer, or who just likes larger watches. 

The brushed finish and clean design give the Ranger a very functional no-fuss aesthetic that sets it apart from Tudor’s other watches, and the specifications of the watch are very good. Features like the T-fit clasp and in-house movement, combined with the quality of Tudor’s finishing make this something of a no-brainer at this price point. 

Which is perhaps why I’m so gutted that the new Ranger doesn’t excite me. But a design can’t please everyone, and if it does take your fancy then I’d say you can’t really go wrong with the Ranger. 

The Tudor Ranger is available now from authorised dealers, and you can read more about it on Tudor’s website here. 

Buy the Tudor Ranger 79950 at Goldsmiths.

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But, each time I’ve seen one in person, it’s grown on me to the point where I’m actually considering getting one. And the reason that I’ve grown to quite like the Pelagos FXD is that it’s so much nicer in the flesh than Tudor’s marketing suggests. 

How The Pelagos FXD Wears

Take the wearability for example. On paper, the watch is rather large at 42mm wide with a whopping 52mm lug length, but that last measurement is misleading. The lug length is taken from the centre of the fixed spring bars, with the actual distance between the lug tips being a slightly more manageable 50mm. And at 12.75mm thick, it’s actually pretty slim. This means that whilst the FXD is still a large watch, it actually wears quite nicely, and even I can pull it off with my puny 6.25-inch wrists. Another thing that helps with the watch’s wearability is that the case is fashioned from titanium, with a steel case back, so the watch is exceptionally lightweight.

Two Straps For The Price Of One

And, whilst we’re talking about wearability, let’s take a look at the straps the Pelagos FXD comes with. For better or worse, the 22mm fixed spring bars on the FXD mean that it doesn’t come on a metal bracelet like the other Pelagos models. Instead, you get two one-piece straps – one fabric and the other rubber. 

Both are very comfortable and of fantastic quality, but I must admit that I’m not keen on either. Both straps are too long for my small wrists, which leaves me with a lot of excess tail I can’t do anything with. The fabric strap is secured by velcro, which is something I’m not that keen on. I know it’s a matter of personal taste, but I think the fastening looks quite untidy. Personally, I’d put the Pelagos FXD on either a grey NATO or a green and yellow “Marine Nationale” strap, as I think both of those would simply look nicer. 

Continuing A Long Tradition

The overall design is also something you can’t really appreciate from Tudor’s press images, and I think the watch looks a lot better in the metal than it does on their website. But before we talk about that, let’s talk about the story behind why the Pelagos FXD exists in the first place. I won’t give you an exhaustive history but, if you didn’t already know, Tudor has a long history of supplying watches to the Marine Nationale. The relationship between the two began way back in 1956 when Tudor sent its first-ever dive watches in for evaluation. The watches were judged to be perfect, and so Tudor became an official supplier to the Marine Nationale from 1961 right up until the mid-1980s.

The Pelagos FXD is the first watch since then that Tudor has supplied to the Marine Nationale, and the cool thing about it is that the French Navy’s elite Commando Hubert unit actually had input on its design. As a result, the FXD isn’t just a normal watch that’s had a military connection slapped on it, but a proper purpose-built military watch. 

A Military-Approved Design

The most obvious military influence is the fixed spring bars that give the Pelagos FXD its name. Whilst they severely limit the strap choices for the watch, they do prevent the watch from being lost during use, which is pretty crucial if you’re a navy swimmer relying on the FXD for timekeeping

The bezel has also been redesigned to suit the Marine Nationale’s needs of aiding swimmers in underwater navigation. It’s bidirectional, with the numerals on the ceramic insert being reversed so that they count down, rather than up. The prominent teeth on the Pelagos FXD’s bezel also make it extremely easy to grip, and the action is as crisp as you’d expect from Tudor.

Something that I know did irk fans of the standard Pelagos is that the FXD dropped the 500m depth rating and helium escape valve of the standard model in favour of a more average 200m. For me, it’s a complete non-issue, as I’ll never need more than a 200m depth rating, and I prefer the thinner case that resulted from the change.  

The dial and handset are very similar to that of the standard Pelagos, but there’s no date window and the hour markers don’t cut into the rehaut. What’s left is a simple and highly legible dial, protected by a flat sapphire crystal. The handset and markers have a matte finish that provides excellent contrast, and which perfectly demonstrates the practical nature of the FXD. And as for the the lume? Well, that’s naturally excellent too.

Now, something else I really like about the Pelagos FXD is the shade of blue it uses. It might sound silly, but I think that the blue used on the standard Pelagos is too bright and that it cheapens the look of the watch. On the other hand, the blue on the FXD is a darker shade that’s closer to the colour of the BB58 Blue. The more muted colour suits the functional nature of the watch and helps give the Pelagos FXD its excellent legibility. 

The Pelagos FXD’s Movement

Beneath the dial lies Tudor’s calibre MT5602. This in-house automatic movement has an impressive 70-hour power reserve, a 4Hz beat rate, and a silicon balance spring. Furthermore, the movement is COSC-certified, so it will be accurate to -4/+6 seconds per day. In short, it offers everything you could expect from a movement at this price point. 

Final Thoughts

Of course, despite all things I like about the Pelagos FXD, I’m under no illusions as to why it exists. And that’s that Tudor obviously chose to rekindle their relationship with the Marine Nationale for commercial benefit. I think we all know that the French Navy didn’t need Tudor to make them this watch. At the end of the day, this is still a luxury product that Tudor created because they know that a watch made for the French Navy will appeal to us watch enthusiasts. 

Well, they’re completely right. However, that doesn’t stop the FXD from being a true purpose-built military watch. That’s why it looks somewhat quirky and unconventional, and it’s also why I’ve grown to love the slightly odd design. This is a proper tool watch that’s designed for a specific purpose, and it makes absolutely zero concessions for the sake of aesthetics or convention. 

And, as a result of that, the Pelagos FXD has everything I could need in a diver. It’s accurate, highly legible, and lightweight. Plus with the fixed bars I’ll never have to worry about losing it. And, with a retail price of £3,000 or $3,900, it’s pretty well priced in comparison to Tudor’s other watches, being about 18% cheaper than the standard Pelagos. So, whilst I feel that it’s important to acknowledge the commercial reality behind this watch, it’s still a fitting successor to the original Marine Nationale submariners, and I still really want one. 

You can read more about the Pelagos FXD on Tudor’s website here. 

The post The Tudor Pelagos FXD – A Pure Tool Watch Through And Through appeared first on 12&60.

Buy the Tudor Back Bay 36 at Goldsmiths.

There’s just one problem. You can’t get hold of one. Steel Rolexes are as rare as hen’s teeth right now, and things don’t look like they’ll change any time soon. Plus, with a retail price of £5,700, the Explorer costs a fair chunk of change.

So whilst the die-hard Rolex fans would undoubtedly suggest saving and persevering to get the Explorer, the reality is that’s not always the practical choice. 

Some of us don’t want to play the waitlist game just to buy a watch, and some just aren’t comfortable spending nearly £6,000 on one. Whatever the reason, many of us have been left seeking an alternative to the Rolex Explorer. Something that can fill that niche for a “go anywhere, do anything” watch without you needing to sell a kidney to get it. 

And that’s where the Tudor Black Bay 36 comes in. I think it ticks pretty much all the boxes that the Explorer does but at the much more palatable price of £2,350.

The Perfect Explorer Size

The first box it ticks is the size. Just like the Explorer, the Black Bay 36 has a 36mm case. The lug to lug is just a touch bigger at 44mm compared to the 43mm of the Explorer 124270. What’s more, the Tudor is actually a millimeter thinner at 10.5mm thick. All this means that it wears really nicely on the wrist. It’s got enough presence that it doesn’t feel small, but it’s also thin enough that you can forget it’s there to begin with. 

The case shape is certainly reminiscent of the Explorer’s Oyster case too, which is another plus for anyone looking for an Explorer alternative. It features a screw-down crown, which helps give the Black Bay 36 a decent water resistance of 150m. 

Also, the finishing of the case is of the exceptional quality you’d expect from Tudor. The only problem is that when the polished surfaces are this nice, they pick up scratches really easily. 

A Look At The Bracelet

The bracelet is finished just as nicely and tapers from 19mm at the lugs to 16mm at the clasp. The odd lug width is a bit frustrating for putting the Black Bay 36 on any aftermarket straps, but I think that the watch suits the bracelet best anyway. The 19mm lug width also allows the lugs to be a bit chunkier, which helps give the watch a bit more presence on the wrist. 

The clasp is just as nice as the bracelet, and it features ceramic ball bearings to lock it into place. But it’s let down by the fact it only has three micro-adjustment positions. Combined with the lack of half-links, this can make it a bit difficult to find a comfortable size for your wrist. Given the Black Bay’s price point, I’d like to see the watch come with a quick micro-adjustment system. However, so far Tudor has only fitted this to its newest models, such as the Black Bay Pro. 

A Very Legible Watch

For me, one of the nicest things about the Black Bay 36 is its legibility. The dial follows the same classic Submariner layout as the rest of the Black Bay line, along with Tudor’s signature snowflake handset. 

Both the applied markers and the handset are packed with crisp white lume. This means that they really pop against the gloss black dial, which has an incredibly rich luster to it. I know that some people aren’t a fan of the snowflake handset, but the benefit of such a chunky hour hand is that it is incredibly easy to distinguish at a glance – a key bit of functionality for a true tool watch. 

There isn’t much text on the dial either, and it’s nice to see Tudor show some restraint here, given how much text is on other models like the Pelagos. I’m also a big fan of the fact the print is silver, as it adds a bit of detail to the dial that stops it from being one-dimensional. 

I’ve seen others criticize the Black Bay 36 for not having any anti-reflective coating on its sapphire crystal, but honestly, the contrast between the dial and handset is so good that I don’t think it needs it. 

The lume is just as impressive, and when charged it glows with a steady brightness that makes the watch a breeze to read in the dark.

The Movement

The movement inside the Black Bay 36 is Tudor’s Calibre T600. This automatic movement is either a Tudor-modified ETA 2824 or Sellita SW200 (the latter being a clone of the former). Tudor fit their own anti-shock protection and regulator, as well as regulating the movement in five positions. And, whilst the Black Bay 36 isn’t a certified chronometer, Tudor does state the watch will be accurate to chronometer standards. Tudor also offers a hefty five-year warranty with their watches, which is a great statement of their belief in their own products. 

Final Thoughts

To my mind, the Black Bay 36 is the perfect Rolex Explorer alternative. It fills exactly the same niche, and just like the Explorer it really nails that no-nonsense tool watch aesthetic. If anything, it’s actually more toolish than the current Rolex Explorer 124270. 

But that doesn’t mean that the Black Bay 36 isn’t equally at home when paired with a suit, and I think that its versatility is one of its best features. The polished bezel and case sides add just enough dressiness to smarten the watch up without making it too formal. 

It really is a great all-round everyday watch. It’s got a solid set of specifications to go with its refined looks, and the fact it’s from a brand as prestigious as Tudor just adds to its appeal. Few brands have the same history as Tudor, and the fact that it is an offshoot of Rolex makes the Black Bay 36 feel like a true alternative to the more expensive Explorer. You can read more about the Black Bay 36 on Tudor’s website here.

Buy the Tudor Back Bay 36 at Goldsmiths.

The post The Tudor Black Bay 36 – The Best Rolex Explorer Alternative? appeared first on 12&60.

Whilst Tudor have taken pains over the last decade to distance themselves somewhat from Rolex, it seems as though this year’s releases mark a bit of a reversal of that strategy. The reason I think this is because traditionally, Tudor and Rolex shared many parts such as cases, crowns, crystals, etc. And the Tudor parts often had Rolex branding on them. However, these days, Tudor doesn’t mention its affiliation with Rolex. It seems as though they want to develop their own identity, rather than just piggybacking off the success of their big brother. But then they go and release something like the Tudor Black Bay Pro. A watch that it has to be said bears more than a passing resemblance to a vintage Rolex Explorer II 1655.

It’s an odd change of direction, but that doesn’t mean I don’t think it works. 

Buy the Tudor Black Bay Pro at Goldsmiths.

A Closer Look At The Design

Personally, I think that the designers at Tudor have done a good job of mixing Rolex and Black Bay design cues with some new features to create a watch that’s a pleasing blend of both vintage and contemporary features. 

The vintage elements of the Black Bay Pro are all pretty apparent. Like the Black Bay 58 the case is just 39mm, with a domed sapphire crystal, and a faux-riveted bracelet should you choose that strap option. And, whilst a fixed 24-hour bezel is a new fixture in the Black Bay line, it’s lifted straight from the Explorer II. 

Tudor has also updated the crown on the Pro, and it’s now much more similar to the Rolex crown design. That’s not necessarily a bad thing though, as the new crown has sharper teeth that are much easier to grip. 

It’s actually the dial where we find a lot of the modern design elements of the Pro. The dial is of course the same classic layout that Tudor has used for decades, but it looks a lot more toolish than the other Black Bay models.  For starters there are the markers, which are made from a luminous ceramic compound, and are essentially just big blocks of lume. The same can be said of the hands, which are painted an off-white, rather than the more formal polished metal seen on other Black Bays. Against this monochromatic backdrop the yellow GMT hand really pops out at you, which is something that’s very much appreciated when tracking a second time zone. The result is a very high contrast dial that’s exceptionally legible in all conditions, as well as giving the watch a modern, functional feel that the other Black Bays don’t have.

How Does The Watch Wear?

As someone with a puny 6.25 inch wrist, I find 39mm to be a great size, and I think the watch wears well. The brushed steel bezel also helps the watch wear a bit larger than you’d expect it to. But, one big criticism of the Black Bay Pro is its thickness of 14.6mm. Now as others have said, whilst this sounds terrible on paper it’s certainly not a dealbreaker when you actually get the watch on the wrist. And, just like the Black Bay GMT, the underside of the case is chamfered to hide some of the height. That said, if I’m being honest I wouldn’t want the Black Bay Pro to be any thicker, and I think Tudor really are at the limit of what they can get away with here. 

The sample I got to spend time with came on the rubber and leather hybrid strap, and I found it to be a very comfortable premium strap. The stitching matched the off-white of the lume, and the material felt both supple and durable. 

And if you were wondering about the watch’s water resistance, then I can tell you it is rated to a standard 200m, just like the Black Bay divers, making it ideal to take swimming and diving.

What About That Movement?

Ticking away inside the Black Bay Pro is Tudor’s Calibre MT5652. This automatic movement is what is known as a “True GMT”. That means that when setting the time it’s the local hour hand that jumps forwards or backwards, not the GMT hand. The date wheel is also linked to the local hour hand, so it changes whenever the hand crosses forwards or backwards over midnight.  

In contrast, most cheaper GMTs are what’s called “Caller” or “Office” GMTs. With these movements winding the crown out in the first position allows you to set the GMT hand in one direction and the date wheel in the other. This is less desirable than a True GMT because it is harder to adjust to local time when travelling. 

In addition to being a True GMT the MT5652 features a 70-hour power reserve and is a COSC-certified chronometer, which means it will be accurate to -4/+6 seconds per day. All of which makes the movement sound great on paper. However, I should point out that when the calibre was first introduced in 2018 there were multiple reports from owners of problems with the date wheel on this calibre. The date has been known to jump or stick when changing. 

Whether or not this issue affected a disproportionate number of movements is hard to say because Tudor haven’t even acknowledged the issue, and the evidence is all anecdotal. Personally, I’m inclined to think that Tudor must have solved this issue before choosing to put the movement in a new model, but only time will tell.

Final Thoughts

Having spent some time with the Black Bay Pro, I don’t think I’d label it an Explorer II homage. The watch obviously draws inspiration from Rolex, and I think that Tudor are pitching this as an Explorer alternative, but it has a strong amount of Black Bay DNA in there too. And it’s that which sets it apart from Rolex enough for the watch to have its own identity. 

And it’s an identity that’s also different enough to previous Black Bays to feel fresh. I understand that a lot of people would love to see a Black Bay 58 GMT, but I’m glad that Tudor chose a design that’s a bit more unpredictable. 

So, how much will the Black Back Pro set you back? Well, it retails for £3,080 or $4,000 on the steel bracelet, and for the slightly cheaper price of £2,840 or $3,675 on the straps. This is in line with other Black Bays and it’s a fair price for what Tudor are offering here. 

As usual, I think Tudor have produced a watch that has style and functionality in equal measure, and I think this fills a gap in their catalogue that I hadn’t realised existed. 

You can read more about the Black Bay Pro on Tudor’s website here. 

Buy the Tudor Black Bay Pro at Goldsmiths.

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