The latest watch to be reissued, or reinterpreted as Seiko prefers to say, is their 6105-8000 “Turtle”. This was only the second dive watch that Seiko produced, and it had a fairly short production run, only being made from 1968-1970. The original model has naturally become pretty collectable, and with Seiko reissuing the 62MAS and the Captain Willard, the 6105 Turtle was the next logical choice.

Buy the Seiko Prospex SPB317J1 at Goldsmiths.

The new collection is officially called the “Prospex Heritage Turtle 1968 Re-Interpretation”, and there are three different models to choose from. The white dialled SPB313J1, the black and gilt SPB315J1, and the black and white SPB317J1. It’s the latter model I’ve got in to review, and it was kindly loaned to me by Francis & Gaye Jewellers. As always I thoroughly recommend them as a UK-based authorised dealer and they have a fantastic selection of brands to choose from. Regarding pricing, the SPB317J1 retails for £810 on a rubber strap, and the other models go for £990 on a steel bracelet. 

The Specifications Of The SPB317J1

On paper, the SPB317J1 has all the features that are hallmarks of these higher-end Prospex divers. The watch has a 200m depth rating, a sapphire crystal, and the case is treated with Seiko’s scratch-resistant DiaShield coating. It also goes without saying that the lume on the SPB317J1 is exceptionally bright. 

Inside the SPB317J1 beats Seiko’s in-house calibre 6R35. This automatic movement has 24 jewels, a beat rate of 21,600 bph, and a 70-hour power reserve. Though these movement specs are pretty solid, the 6R35 is only rated to be accurate to between +25 to -15 seconds per day, which isn’t what I’d expect from a watch at this price point. It’s something that I really hope Seiko improves on in the near future, as I think it’s the main thing that detracts from their watches at the moment. Not to mention that I’m getting sick of mentioning the same point each time I review a Seiko!

The bezel insert is aluminium and uses the same design that Seiko has been using for decades. It’s one of the features that helps to give the SPB317J1 that classic Seiko look, but of course, the aluminium is nowhere near as durable as the steel inserts used on Seiko’s 62MAS reinterpretations. You might also have already noticed that predictably the bezel is misaligned. Again, it’s not something that you expect in a watch that retails for over £800, and bezel alignment is the second major improvement I think Seiko need to make to their watches. 

A Classic Seiko Design

The design of the SPB317J1 is very true to the 6105-8000 it’s based on, with just a few minor tweaks to tie the watch into Seiko’s other Prospex divers. In fact, the dial layout is almost identical to that used on the Willard reissue, with chunky polished baton markers on a matte black dial. It’s not exactly an imaginative layout, but it provides the high contrast you expect on a professional dive watch.

Meanwhile, the baton handset is also the same as that used on the Willard reissues, with a dual brushed and polished finish that creates some interesting light play. The shovel-tipped seconds hand is the same too, with a red lume spot that serves as the only splash of colour on the watch. 

The biggest talking point about the design of the SPB317J1 is actually its date window. Date windows can be quite divisive features, with some people finding them useful and others disliking that they can ruin the symmetry of a watch. For anyone who falls into the latter camp, I wouldn’t worry about the one on the SPB317J1, because it’s actually barely noticeable. It’s positioned at 4:30, and with its colour-matched date wheel, it’s actually very unobtrusive. I think its placement is Seiko’s attempt to compromise between the two sides of the date or no date debate, whilst also allowing them to follow the latest ISO6425 guidelines, which require dive watches to have lume plots at all hour markers. 

All this is housed in a brushed steel cushion case that’s not really any different from the original Turtle. The combination of all these elements results in a watch that’s best described as a no-frills dive watch. And I mean that in a good way, because it’s got all the functionality you want in a diver, with absolutely no excess design features. The simple black and white dial looks really crisp, with the hands and markers really popping out at you, and it’s therefore exceptionally legible. 

The SPB317J1 Is Very Comfortable On The Wrist

One of the best things about the SPB317J1 is just how well it wears on the wrist. This is partly due to its dimensions. The case is 41mm wide, with a 46.9mm lug length, and a thickness of 12.25mm. This makes the SPB317J1 Seiko’s thinnest Prospex diver yet, and because of that, the watch sits really unobtrusively on the wrist. 

The other reason it wears so well is because the crown is located at 4 o’clock, and as a result, it can’t dig into the back of my hand. This is far from an unusual design choice for Seiko, but on the SPB317J1 I really noticed just how much more comfortable it made the watch to wear. 

The last thing to talk about when it comes to the comfort of the SPB317J1 is the rubber strap it comes on. The strap is well-made, with supple rubber, chunky steel hardware, and a subtle pattern. It’s certainly not anything special, but it’s comfortable and exactly what I’d expect to see fitted to this watch. Plus with 20mm drilled lugs the SPB317J1 will suit a plethora of aftermarket straps if the stock one isn’t your thing. 

Final Thoughts

As I said earlier, I think of the SPB317J1 as a no-frills diver. It’s a watch that’s not concerned with fancy finishing and over-the-top design elements. Everything is functional and to the point, and as this is a reissue of the 6105, the design is packed with Seiko DNA. All of which makes the SPB317J1 the quintessential Seiko dive watch in my opinion. 

It’s hardly a revolutionary watch, but rather the SPB317J1 is a tasteful evolution of an iconic Seiko design that’s a classic for a reason. It’s legible, toolish and easy to wear. It’s just a pity that the usual Seiko issues of bezel alignment and movement accuracy continue to rear their ugly heads. I’m also conscious that with a retail price of £810, the SPB317J1 is hardly cheap. However, it seems that Seiko has realised the value of its history and factored that into the price of these Prospex reinterpretations. But, besides those small issues, I think the SPB317J1 is a solid dive watch that makes for a great daily beater. 

Thanks once again to Francis & Gaye for loaning the watch to us. You can purchase the Prospex SPB317J1 Turtle Re-Interpretation from their website here. 

Buy the Seiko Prospex SPB317J1 at Goldsmiths.

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Buy the Seiko 5 GMT SSK001 at Goldsmiths.

I regretted this decision until two months ago when the first images and specifications of the new Seiko 5 GMTs came out. I thought it was the perfect move from Seiko: using the iconic SKX case design and adding a GMT hand. I couldn’t have dreamed of a better beater watch and Seiko fulfilled my dreams that even I was not privy to. So let’s take a look at the black dial Seiko 5 GMT SSK001! 

The Seiko 5 GMT SSK001 Spec Sheet 

I don’t know why but I used to be intimidated by the dimensions of the SKX007 and 009 which I thought would be too big for my skinny wrist. This concern didn’t even come to mind when I made the decision to acquire the Seiko 5 GMT SSK001. Coming in with a diameter of 42mm, a lug-to-lug distance of 46mm, a thickness of 13.6mm, and a lug width of 22mm, the SSK001 fits rather nicely on my 16cm (6.25”) wrist. It does command a certain wrist presence, however, it does so in just the right way. Thankfully, the watch is quite light thanks to having a jingly Jubilee bracelet and a pressed clasp. Speaking of which, I adore the clasp, although many moan that it’s not of the milled variety. (A pressed clasp is, in my experience, more comfortable than a milled one as it sits flatter on the wrist.) 

The big aesthetic departure from the old SKX line resides in the fact that the markers are applied (not painted,) and that the aluminium bezel insert on the friction-fit bezel is covered with Seiko’s proprietary Hardlex, making the insert look like ceramic. The crystal atop the dial is also made of Hardlex and comes with generous amounts of anti-reflective coating. Furthermore, the crystal is equipped with a cyclops which makes reading the date a breeze. (I’m not even 40 and I appreciate that little detail.) Aiding in the overall legibility of the watch is the application of Seiko’s proprietary Lumibrite which glows green and bright (pun intended.) 

Inside the Seiko 5 GMT SSK001—and this is the big star of the show for me—is the 4R34 GMT movement. In typical Seiko fashion, this movement beats at 21,600 BPH (3Hz,) it has 24 jewels and comes with 41 hours of power reserve. That’s a lot of specifications for the modest price tag of $475 (480 EUR) which many would argue isn’t. This makes the SSK001 (and its colourful siblings the SSK003 and SSK005) the first in-house GMT automatic watch under $500, which is something that we were all dreaming of seeing for a long time. Seiko did it and I for one think that they did a pretty darn good job at it. 

A Very Handsome Watch 

As mentioned above, the hour markers are applied and come with highly polished surrounds. So do the hour and minute hands. Combined with the Hardlex crystal affixed on the bezel, the Seiko 5 GMT SSK001 shines and the way it does varies based on from which angle you look at the watch. From the sides, all reflections become more subdued and the mirror-finish on the second half of the bezel insert majestically appears. From other angles, it’s a reflection show (in a good sense!) and the entire bezel insert looks pitch black. So there are a lot of things happening visually, whichever angle you look at the watch. Luckily, Seiko went for a matte dial and not a glossy one to balance things out. 

A distinct visual characteristic of the old SKX and its modern replacements is the design of the hour markers and hands. For the lack of a better description, the hands are very “SKX” like (I usually compare the design of the hands to something else we are familiar with) in that they are legible and come with pointy bits, akin to the end of a musket. (The shape of the hour hand looks like a truncated Sword hand while the minute hand looks like an actual arrow.) The line at the tip of the hands can also be found in the hour markers at the cardinal positions. The one at the 12, more specifically, is an inverted triangle while the ones at the 6 and 9 o’clock are oblong. The rest of the hour markers are circular. 

It would be hard to miss the broad and flashy red GMT hand. Critics say it’s a Rolex GMT hand (and they add to this comparison the date magnifier) but I would say that whoever came up with this design first, it works so very well on the SSK001. It has a distinct pointy end and reaches further than the minute hand, creating additional contrast between the two. The GMT hand points confidently at the rehaut where we can see one of the two 24-hour scales. The second one is printed on the bezel, making it possible to track two additional time zones in addition to local time. 

Random tidbit: I think the SSK001 (and the SSK003 and SSK005) are the first Seiko watches with a triple Hardlex construction. The proprietary Seiko material can be found on the bezel, atop the dial, and on the case back, letting us see the simply-finished 4R34 movement. 

Last but not least, the finish shows a nice balance of polished surfaces on the case side, the centre links of the bracelet, the coined-edge bezel, and the case back. Everywhere else the finish is of the brushed variety. This means the Seiko 5 GMT SSK001 does not appear too toolish (by having brushed surfaces only) nor does it look too dressy (by having polished surfaces only.) This aspect of the watch’s construction adds to the versatility of the SSK001, which also can be found in its functionality as well as reasonable dimensions. 

Functionality, Functionality, Functionality 

The Seiko 5 GMT SSK001 is a watch full of functionality. I omitted a couple of specifications at the beginning of the review to reinforce this point. Not only does it come with a GMT complication which is useful to people who like me have family in different time zones and/or whose clients live in different parts of the globe. It also displays the date which is a must-have as I like to know how far I’ve gone in the month. It also comes with 100 meters of water resistance (with a push/pull crown) which is enough water resistance for 99% of the situations I find myself in. Lastly, the 4R34 movement is a robust piece of mechanical engineering which keeps good time (+ 4 sec/day for me.) 

Final Thoughts 

Seiko hit a home run with the new line of Seiko 5 GMT watches. They preserved the well-loved case design of the old SKX and adorned it with applied indices, a triple Hardlex construction, a poppy GMT hand, and a date magnifier. The icing on the cake is the GMT complication which adds functionality to an already functional timepiece. Although some would moan about the lack of a sapphire crystal and click bezel, I think that Seiko is giving us a lot of bangs for our bucks with this new release. As many do, I hope that the 4R34 movement will appear on other models of the Prospex line.

You can read more about the Seiko 5 GMT SSK001 on Seiko’s website here.

Buy the Seiko 5 GMT SSK001 at Goldsmiths.

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One of which is the 6105-8110 “Captain Willard”, a watch that was made famous by the film Apocalypse Now. In 2020 Seiko released an updated version of the watch, and since then they’ve produced several different models. 

Buy the Seiko Prospex Captain Willard SPB237J1 at Goldsmiths.

The version I’m looking at today is the Prospex SPB237J1 Captain Willard Re-Interpretation, which was kindly loaned to me by Francis & Gaye Jewellers. If you’re looking for a reliable authorised dealer in the UK then get in touch with them and they’ll be happy to take care of you. 

The watch retails for £1,220 or $1300USD, which is in line with the other Willard interpretations, but is still a lot more than some of the other dive watches in Seiko’s Prospex range. 

So let’s see if we can figure out why Seiko is asking that much for it. 

Exactly The Specifications You’d Expect

As you’d expect the SPB237J1 Willard is an ISO-certified dive watch, with 200m of water resistance, incredibly bright lume, and a unidirectional bezel with an aluminium insert. Somewhat unusually it doesn’t come on a steel bracelet, but it’s instead supplied with two NATO straps. 

On the surface, these features don’t do anything to explain the more premium price. Seiko certainly offers plenty of other divers with similar specs for less money. But, diving a little deeper, there are a few things that separate the SPB237J1 Willard from the cheaper models.  

For starters the case is covered with Seiko’s DiaShield coating, which offers improved scratch resistance over bare metal. And, instead of Seiko’s Hardlex mineral crystal, the watch has a more scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating.

The SPB237J1 Willard uses a 6R35 automatic movement, which is slightly better than Seiko’s entry-level 4R35. The 4R35 is rated to be accurate to a mere +45 to -35 seconds per day, and has an average 41-hour power reserve. In contrast, the 6R35 is accurate to +25 to -15 seconds per day, and has an impressive 70-hour power reserve. Whilst the accuracy of the 6R35 could do with improving, it’s still a higher specification movement than the 4R35. 

Whilst these features clearly put the SPB237J1 Willard at the higher end of the Prospex range, I don’t think they fully explain the watch’s cost. After all, there are plenty of other brands with affordable dive watches that have similar features. 

A Classic Design Reinvented

Which brings me on to the design of the SPB237. It’s naturally very close to that of the original Willard, and that carries with it a certain value. This watch gives you a chance to get an update of a classic Seiko design built to modern standards.  

The case is the same classic cushion shape as the original Willard, with the screw-down crown at four protected by some prominent crown guards. It’s a design that won’t be for everyone, but it’s what defines the Willard’s whole identity. At 42.7mm wide, the SPB237J1 is actually a bit smaller than the original Willard, which was 44mm. It also wears very nicely thanks to a decent lug to lug of 46.6mm, and a reasonable thickness of 13.2mm. Furthermore, the bezel is smaller than the case, measuring just 40.5mm wide. This makes the watch feel smaller on the wrist that the case dimensions would suggest, whilst still allowing it to have a good presence. 

Like the case, the dial layout is almost identical to the original Willard, but with a few modern tweaks. The indices have a very slight taper to them, and the lume is a light cream colour to replicate the patina seen on vintage watches. Unfortunately, the date window isn’t framed, as there isn’t any space thanks to a barely noticeable applied marker at the 3 o’clock position. 

The handset is fairly simple, but they have a split finish, with one side brushed and the other polished. This serves to create some interesting light play across the dial, and it helps take the watch’s finishing up a notch. 

Of course, the biggest difference on the SPB237J1 Willard is that grey dial with its bark-like texture. It’s somewhat reminiscent of the SPB143, and strikes a nice balance between playful and serious. It’s not as plain as the solid black Willard, but it’s not a gimmicky colourway either. 

As I mentioned earlier, the SPB237J1 Willard comes with two NATO straps – one green and one grey. These use a traditional Japanese braiding technique known as Seichu, which gives them a ribbed texture. The material is rather thick, so the watch sits quite tall on the wrist, and I would have preferred a single pass option. However, the nylon is comfortable to wear and feels very durable. The steel hardware is also very nice, though you should be aware that the keeper isn’t tall enough for you to tuck any excess material back on itself.  

Despite this I prefer the NATO’s to the bracelet offered on other models, as I find that can be a bit chunky. Meanwhile these NATO’s give the watch a strong military vibe, and can be swapped out easily for another strap whenever you fancy. 

The Price Of Heritage

Ultimately, I think that the main reason the SPB237J1 Willard costs so much is Seiko’s heritage. The brand has existed since 1881, and its watches have been worn prominently by actors and adventurers alike. As a result, the brand’s reputation precedes it, and it’s one of the brands us watch enthusiasts recommend most to those new to the hobby. 

But whilst a lot of us have traditionally thought of Seiko as a bang-for-your-buck brand, it has also started to leverage its classic designs to expand into higher ends of the market.

And in all honesty, I think that decision makes sense for them. Seiko built their reputation on tool watches, but those days are over, and now watches are practically just jewellery for a lot of people. On top of that, microbrands have massively changed the watch industry over the last five years. These days micros are able to offer great quality pieces at exceptionally low prices, and as a result of this the lower end of the market has become very crowded. 

By offering these reissues and reinterpretations with better specs at a higher price point, Seiko are switching who they’re competing against. Instead of those small microbrands, they’re against the entry-level Swiss watches, which is traditionally exactly who Seiko are strongest against.

Final Thoughts

Of course, whether or not you want to pay a bit more to get a watch from a brand of Seiko’s pedigree is entirely up to you. Personally I think that, whilst it’s not a strong value proposition, £1,220 isn’t a bad price for this watch considering the design’s heritage. And, whilst I know that’s a somewhat controversial opinion, I can’t help but think that if we were talking about a Swiss brand like Tudor, a lot more people wouldn’t have a problem with it. 

But, putting aside the price of the watch, the SPB237J1 is a great modern update to the Willard design that incorporates the best features that modern Seiko has to offer. Just like the original Willard, the watch is a capable diver that’s got a distinct and unmistakable aesthetic. It’s iconic, and I can’t help but feel attracted to the SPB237J1 Willard because of that.  

Thanks once again to Francis & Gaye for loaning the watch to us. You can purchase the Prospex SPB237J1 Captain Willard Re-Interpretation from their website here. 

Buy the Seiko Prospex Captain Willard SPB237J1 at Goldsmiths.

The post The Seiko Prospex SPB237J1 Captain Willard Re-Interpretation – Why Does It Cost So Much? appeared first on 12&60.

No matter which version it is, one thing is for sure: the Cocktail Time is a very popular dress watch amongst watch enthusiasts. Why’s that? Well, just look at that dial. It is truly sensational. Also, it’s a Seiko – a brand well known as being reliable and offering excellent value for money.

I had waited too long to get my hands on one – so let’s take a look.

The specs

• Dimensions: 40.5mm diameter x 12mm height x 47.5mm lug to lug
• Weight: 69g
• Water resistance rating: 5ATM / 50m
• Movement: Seiko 4R35B
• Accuracy: -0.2 sec/day
• Lug width: 20mm
• Warranty: 3 years
• Price: ~£300 / ~$300
• Buy the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time SRPB43 from Goldsmiths

The video review

The case

I bought this watch promptly after selling my Seiko Sumo, which has a delightfully streamlined, sleek case. I was secretly hoping for a similar case shape, and comparing the two I was a little disappointed that the Cocktail Time’s case is a bit of a straightforward, timid, polished barrel. However, that’s not to say that it’s not pleasant or excellently crafted and finished, but I sort of feel that the dial on this watch deserves a more striking case.

The 40.5mm diameter is a decent size and fits my slightly over 7” wrist well. For a true dress watch, some die-hard fans may wish for a slight reduction in size, however, the larger size provides a modern take on the vintage taste. The height of 12mm is more than it seems, as the crystal alone takes up a couple of millimetres.

Sitting on top of the case is a domed hardlex crystal. The fact that it’s handled could be seen as a negative, however, I feel it is part of the charm of the watch: it is bestowed with an unmistakable warm glow; the tall domed box shape provides a fantastic view of the distinctive dial. It’s also very clear when viewed straight-on.

If you consider the crown on its own, you’d be right to think that it belongs on a more casual watch – perhaps even an aviator. However, the size and shape of it work well on the Cocktail Time; it’s super easy to use thanks to the size, shape and grip. It also features a sultry S deeply engraved in the end.

The caseback is relatively simple, with an exhibition window showcasing the movement well and various details surround it.

The dial

I think you know what the main feature of the dial is: the gorgeous linear sunburst explosion. But not only this, every aspect of the dial is expertly manufactured.

But first; the texture is delightful; there’s no doubt Seiko is a market-leading example of expert construction – and the ridged outward linear pattern is a real treat for the eyes.

The hands are a classic pitched dauphine shape, and as you’d expect they’re flawlessly executed. The seconds hand is a blue needle shape featuring a rather modern hollow diamond counterweight. The dark blue provides a splash of colour complimenting the champagne dial.

I love deep, high quality applied hour markers and I’ve been very impressed with those found on the Seiko Cocktail Time. An attractive pitched arrow provides a variety of reflections at different angles.

As well as the hour markers, the applied logo is also deep and detailed. It is made to impressive accuracy and is applied on top of the ridged dial.

Another unexpected level of quality comes in the form of the date window, which is deep-set below the depth of the dial and features an extremely neat and impressive polished border.

The printwork is all printed with pinpoint accuracy, even the tiniest of text at the base of the dial.

The strap

The supplied leather strap isn’t my favourite, in fact, I really dislike it; the shiny patent finish looks tacky in my eyes, I’d much prefer a matte finish. The dark blue stitching works well in conjunction with the light blue of the dial.

The leather is soft and supple and is easy to wear as it’s not particularly thick.

The deployant clasp is also a bit strange; it’s almost as if it’s upside down. I’ve switched the strap for it to behave in a normal way (tail and facing upwards), but that means the logo on the top bar is the wrong way round. The logo is lightly laser etched which is a slight disappointment (I would have preferred engraved). It is easy to use thanks to the two side buttons.

The movement

The movement powering the Cocktail Time is the Seiko 4R35B, released around 2011. Specs include a beat rate of 21.6k bph (6 ticks per second), approx 41 hours power reserve, and 23 jewels. It has automatic and hand winding capabilities, as well as a hacking seconds hand.

I think it looks fantastic; with brushed bridges and a neat appearance throughout. The gold plated rotor is rather striking against the steel backdrop, especially with the crisp printwork.

Final comments

I’m going to keep this fairly simple: superb watch, abysmal strap. Of course, I wouldn’t let a rubbish leather strap ruin an excellent watch; nor should you. Just do yourself a favour and switch it out right away; a nice Hirsch or something handmade would fit perfectly.

The dial and case are so expertly produced that it’s hard to fault. Maybe some will be put off by the size of the crown; others may just not dig the design. One thing is for sure though: the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time SRPB43 is definitely one of the best affordable dress watches available.

Buy the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time SRPB43 from Goldsmiths.

The post Seiko Presage Cocktail Time SRPB43 Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

There’s a couple of versions of the “Sumo” – the 003 was the original, with “Scuba” printed above automatic on the dial. This model, the 033, replaced the original and the main difference is the Prospex “X” logo in place of “Scuba”. Prospex stands for “professional specifications” – and is the collection of more premium Seiko divers.

Enough waffle, I’ve had this watch for almost a year now and I thought it was about time I knuckled down and got on with the review. Let’s take a closer look.

The specs

• Dimensions: 44.5mm diameter x 13.5mm height x 52.5mm lug to lug
• Weight: 172g (with 3 links removed)
• Water resistance rating: 20ATM / 20pm
• Movement: Seiko 6R15
• Accuracy: +10.5 sec/day
• Lug width: 20mm
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: ~£350-£400
• Buy here:
  • Amazon
  • Long Island Watch
  • Gnomon Watches
  • Seiya Japan
  • Creation Watches

The case

The Seiko Sumo case is epitomised by beautiful craftsmanship and flowing lines. I had pretty high expectations; it’s certainly delivered. It has really crisp edging, especially at the base of lugs where a handful of angles meet.

The polished and brushed finishing is flawless; I especially like the central brushed channel with a polished top and bottom.

The screw-in crown has great grip and a beautiful shapely S deeply engraved on the end.

Drilled-through lugs are always helpful; it allows you to remove the bracelet easily from the outside.

The bezel flowers out aiding the grip, and it nestles within flanges of the case on both sides, so it’s only usable at the top and bottom. I actually really like this as I only ever use the bezel at the top and bottom and it accentuates the flowing case. the insert is spotless, and the action is buttery smooth.

Now we come to the most important element you should think about: the hardlex crystal. Whilst it is harder and more scratch resistant than mineral crystal, it’s still gutting that on a ~£350 watch it isn’t sapphire. What’s more, as it’s domed, it’s pretty liable to scratches (which has happened to me on this very watch). Saying that, it does provide a beautiful collection of reflections which exemplifies the dial well.

The screw-in caseback is brushed with a central polished section with the usual wave you often see on Seikos. Various watch details are deeply engraved around this.

The dial

There’s nothing too outrageous when it comes to the dial – Seiko’s primary concern is that of making it as legible as possible for diving: the hour markers and hands are bold, and legibility is excellent.

The applied hour markers are lumed with a polished border around them – trapezoids at 6 and 9; a triangle at 12, with the remaining markers as discs.

The hands are an interesting unique design; I like the subtle lumed block on the seconds hand, with the minutes and hour hands taking a rather angular approach which mimics the ethos of the case. These also have a polished base to them, so all the elements catch the light really well making a beautiful impression to the eye.

Can anything be better than Seiko’s Lumibrite lume? I’ve yet to find a lume that charges faster, glows brighter, and lasts longer. Simply put, it’s the point of reference for all other lumes to try and beat.

The date window is simple; it is cut out of the dial with a white border. It’s neatly done as you’d expect, and the wheel is white with black text – very legible.

I like the deep rehaut, which contains a minute track within as it provides a bridge between the dial and the bezel. The printwork is all crisp and delicate, including the microscopic text at the foot of the dial.

The bracelet

Is a 20mm wise bracelet too thin for a 44.5mm diameter watch? Many tend to think so. Personally, though, it doesn’t really bother me. In fact, it’s pretty comfortable.

The links are fitted together using Seiko’s weird pin and collar links, which tends to be a bit awkward when resizing. Check out my video on how to resize these little blighters.

The links are primarily brushed, with polished sides and a polished channel either side of the central link. Nice alternating finishes keep the eye interested, however, the quality isn’t quite up to the same standard as the case.

The double locking buckle is solid and very dependable. There’s a huge top locking flap with the Seiko logo deeply engraved within, and a locking button either side to open it up. It’s fully brushed bar the polished shoulders, and it also boasts 4 micro-adjustment points plus a diving extension.

The movement

The movement powering the Seiko Sumo is the Seiko 6R15. Specs include 50 hours power reserve, hand and automatic winding, hacking seconds, and 23 jewels.

The chances are that this movement will perform for many, many years. I know Seiko watches with mechanical movements that have ticked along happily for literally decades without a single service. There’s no doubt you’ll be getting a rugged, hard-wearing movement.

Final comments

By reading this review, you’re obviously interested in what the Seiko Sumo offers. Really, the key questions you need to ask yourself are primarily whether you are ok with the hardlex crystal, and on a slightly more minor level if you don’t mind the width of the bracelet (which doesn’t actually bother me in the slightest). I’m a fussy guy when it comes to spending money on watches – and whilst I’m annoyed that the crystal on this watch has scratched it actually (and surprisingly) hasn’t marred my overall impression of the Sumo. And that’s saying something.

I completely understand that some of you may completely disregard this watch due to the crystal, but if there’s the slightest intrigue then I’d suggest you succumb to it – as you’ll not regret it. The overall fit and finish, as well as the design, is sublime.

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Why I left it this late I have no idea – I felt the same when I finally got around to reviewing the Seiko SKX007. So here we are, I finally have one in my hands. Let’s take a closer look to see if the Seiko 5 deserves the folklore that precedes it. 

Currently you can get the Seiko 5 for £58 from Creation Watches, or ~£65 from Amazon. It’s also available in black / green / blue dials with matching straps.

The specs

• Dimensions: 37mm diameter x 10.6mm height x 43mm lug to lug
• Weight: 60g
• Lug width: 18mm
• Crystal: hardlex
• Movement: Seiko 7S26B
• Water resistance: 30m

The case

For me, at 37mm in diameter the case is a great size offering superb comfort. It’s also well machined and finished for the price.

The majority of the case is a matte, sand blasted finish bar the polished underside / inside of the lugs. This should prove to be very hard wearing and quite resistant to scratches.

The crystal is hardlex – which is Seiko’s proprietary hardened mineral. It’s in-between mineral and sapphire in terms of hardness, and is on a great amount of Seiko’s so is pretty cool to see on the cheaper options too. Whilst there’s no real anti-reflective coating, the glare is kept quite low.

Located at 4 is the small, unsigned push-pull crown. It’s simple and a little hard to pull out but is easy enough to use.

The caseback displays the Seiko 7S26B movement in all its glory, and is polished to match the inside of the lugs. The exhibition window has some minor printing on the underside of various watch specifics.

Overall, it’s a solid, well sized case that still feels quality despite the size – and this is supported by the weight of 60g considering the petit nature of it.

The dial

This is obviously the beige variation, but the Seiko 5 Military is also available in black / green / blue with matching straps. 

It’s a relatively simple design in terms of print, albeit a little busy, with the minutes laid out in 5 minute increments around the outer edge and the hours within an inner border.

The printing is all surprisingly accurate, even on the microscopic text located at the base of the dial – on cheaper watches it’s never this fine and pinpoint, and is usually smudged and lacks definition. Not so here.

The day / date window is located at 3, with white wheels and black print (apart from Sunday which is red). The wheels line up nicely vertically with the inner border and also horizontally.

I really love the applied logo – it’s such great quality for the price and is the standout element on the dial. It’s deep, accurate any looks high quality. 

The leaf hands have a black border with a lumed centre, and the seconds hand is a straight point with a smart lumed disc acting as the counterweight. They’re all made will with no signs of poor manufacturing.

The lume on the dial is surprisingly strong and reactive; it doesn’t take a lot to charge it and it lasts for a while.

The movement

The movement powering this watch is the highly regarded Seiko 7S26B. The 7Sxx family was originally introduced in 1996 and has become one of their most popular movements available. Hard wearing, simple, and reliable – it’s well known that they’ll run and run and run for decades without needing a service.

It runs at a standard 21.6k bph (6 ticks per second), and the only features missing are no hacking seconds hand or hand winding capabilities… But the omission of these complications could be the exact reason why they last so long. All it means is that you can’t set the watch band on the second, and that to get it started a little flick of the wrist is required rather than a manual crank. 

It has an average 40 hour power reserve and houses 23 jewels. It also has a day and date complication – with the day being multilingual (English / French on this one, although you can get Spanish or Chinese too).

The crown stem is located at 4 rather than the usual 3, which I really like and feel is part of its charm. The only other thing to mention is that at times the rotor winding can be a little bit loud – but not enough to put you off. 

The strap

The strap is made of nylon, and is surprisingly thick (more so than most NATO straps I’ve come across). It’s a beige / sandy color to match the dial and has proved to be perfectly comfortable.

The sizing holes have a leather surround to reinforce and ensure longevity from wear from the tang buckle – a clever addition that also looks OK too.

The strap features sand blasted hardware to match the case, with the buckle having the Seiko logo deeply engraved.

The strap has two keeper loops – one is free and one is stitched in place, which works well in keeping the loose flap neat and tidy. Whilst it’s not the best looking strap, it’s surprisingly well made and comfortable – in fact I’ve not really had the urge to have to change it at all.

Final comments

I’ll happily admit that I won’t be wearing the Seiko 5 Military as a daily wearer – I just don’t think the style suits it. But that’s OK – because it doesn’t expect to be your all-day every-day watch. It’s a faithful servant, grateful and willing no matter when you put it on. Well made, dependable, simple, lightweight and reasonably priced – it’s quite possibly one of the best beaters going. 

So whilst I won’t wear it daily, it’ll be a valuable part of my collection. 

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Still, I think it’s good to do an honest, in-depth review of this giant in the affordable watch community. Read on to find out if it’s really as good as it’s made out to be. 

The case

The case is reasonably simple, yet ergonomic in its design and provides something a little different to the norm.

It measures in at 41mm in diameter, with a height of 13.25mm, and a lug to lug length of 46mm. This to me is a nice respectable yet impressive looking divers watch size, which will suit and fit many people.

Regarding the weight, it’s got some heft to it but not so much that you can’t lift your wrist. The case by itself weighs in at 80g (with no strap), and it’s about 100g on a leather strap, and 135g on the Seiko jubilee bracelet. 

The fit and finish of the case is definitely very impressive for the price. Usually on watches around this price point you get a few imperfections here and there. The case on the SKX007 is flawless. It’s brushed on the top, and mirror polished on the sides and back. The brushed finish is quite light and gentle, and the polished finish is spotless and mirror-like. The case also has a very nice chamfered edge along the top edge of the sides.

One thing I really like about the case is its fluidity thanks to its ergonomic shape and lines. The sides curve around nicely below the case towards the caseback, creating a distinctive bulge when looked at lug-on. The screw-in crown is located at 4, and the crown guards are moulded straight from the case in a very curvaceous fashion. They extend the whole length of the crown, so it’s very well protected. This does mean, however, that it can be a little tricky to unscrew the crown as a lot of it is obscured. The grip is a little on the minimal side too. The teeth don’t provide much purchase at all. Finally, I’m a little saddened that the crown doesn’t have any markings or engraving on the end. Instead it’s a very plain polished affair with nothing on.

Sitting atop the case is Seiko’s popular Hardlex crystal. Hardlex is a lot more scratch resistant than mineral crystal, but not as much as sapphire. Mineral crystal is 5 on the Mohs scale of hardness, Hardlex is 8, and sapphire is 9. Hardlex has slightly better shatter resistant properties than sapphire, and is clearer too. So what you lose out on in scratch resistance you gain elsewhere. It is also a lot cheaper too, which is one of the reasons why so many Seikos like the SKX007, Monster and Seiko 5 range can be such a reasonable price. It is incredibly clear, which is one of the reasons why the SKX007 is so pleasing to the eye – it’s amazing what a decent crystal can do. It reduces glare and reflections impressively. It has a slight beveled edge where it meets up with the bezel which is done with precision.

The bezel is another well known positive of the Seiko SKX007. The action is silky smooth, providing satisfying audible clicks at every point. 

Being a certified ISO divers watch, the bezel is unidirectional – so it can only go counter clockwise. This is so you can use it to time the amount of oxygen you have in your dive. If you accidentally knocked the bezel, it can’t shift the way that will make it look like you have more oxygen than you do. It’ll only go the way to say that you have less time, so you never run out of air. The bezel rotates 120 clicks, and is slightly misaligned to the right which is a shame. Although it’s not a major problem, as many watch manufacturers fail to get this right so it’s not like it’s a terrible failure. 

The bezel insert is a perfect fit, and the minute markers are all flawless. There’s a lume pip located at 12, within a triangle. This is very neat and tidy and the lume is the same impressive Seiko strength as the hands and dial markers. The grip on the bezel is excellent, provided by two rows of knurling around the outside edge. It’s all finished very well; there’s no rough or untidy edging or anything at all to be seen. 

The solid screw-in caseback is quite bulbous, raising the watch up off your wrist a couple of mm. The wave logo is an homage to Katsushika Hokusai’s ‘The Great Wave off Kanagawa’, a beautiful colour woodblock print piece of art dating around 1830. This is one of the most reproduced pieces of art in the world, and you’ll even find it in your emoji keyboard on your phone (see below). Anyway, I digress. It’s a beautiful choice for a caseback in this instance as not only does it support Seiko’s Japanese national heritage, it’s the perfect choice for a diver – an okinami (“wave of the open sea”) is, after all, an apt object to have on a divers watch. The wave is impressively stamped and machined into the caseback, with good accuracy and depth. There is also a number of watch specifics deeply etched around this centre piece, such as the serial number, Seiko, and some others.

Finally, it’s worth noting that the lugs are 22mm wide, so they’ll fit a wide range of nice straps. 

It’s also good to mention that the SKX007 has a rating of 200m / 20ATM water resistance, which means you can wear it scuba diving and is another requirement for its ISO certification. 

All in all, the case is very nice. You’d certainly be hard pushed to find a better finished one at this price. The only thing I’m disappointed in is the crown – with its lack of marking on the end and the grip too. But everything else is great.

The dial

The dial is very simple and bold – just what you need when diving. The lumed hour markers and strong hands are the key focus, providing excellent visibility against the black dial. The black colour is a pleasant deep black, although not jet black – it has a subtle charcoal appearance to it.

The hour markers are full painted lume, which is that well-known Seiko strength which lasts for hours and charges quickly. The marker at 12 is a triangle with a thin line extending from the bottom point, and the markers at 6 and 9 are elongated circles / ellipses, again with a thin line extending towards the centre of the dial. These small lines don’t actually serve any purpose apart from being quite a nice visual feature. The other hour markers are discs, and all make up quite a distinctive attribute of the SKX007.

The day / date wheels are located at 3, and are suitably positioned on the dial (as in, not too far in or out). The window is also a reasonable size, not being overbearing or taking over the design. It would have been nice to see a small applied border around the window instead of it being cut straight out of the dial, but costs need to be kept low. At least it’s been accurately and delicately cut out, and has a slight chamfered edge. The wheels are white with black printing, all of which is precise with no signs of smudging. The days are available in English or French, and I like how the days are in different colours at the weekend – blue for Saturday (relax, it’s Saturday) and red for Sunday (danger, back at work tomorrow!). On those days it brings a little colour to the dial which is gladly received.

Let’s talk about one of the main things Seiko’s known for – the outstanding lume. The SKX007 has stacks of LumiBrite applied to it – the hands and hour markers are all very well endowed with the stuff. It’s application is thick and even, and it provides many hours of light from minimal charge. I’d even go as far as saying that the lume on this SKX007 is better than the lume on the Seiko Monster I reviewed quite a while back.

The hands are a very distinctive shape, the hour hand being a sword with a point, the minute hand being an arrow with a wide point and tail. They are both made of spotless polished stainless steel and are filled with lume. The seconds hand is a simple point, the whole tip painted white, with the counterbalance being black containing a lumed disc. Again, the entire set of hands is immaculately formed.

The printing on the dial is relatively minimal, keeping readability to a maximum and complexity to a minimum. It has the Seiko logo printed in white within the top half, and “diver’s 200m” in red in the bottom. Right at the foot of the dial is the movement, 7S26, 002R which refers to the dial design (colour and round hour markers shape), and R 2 which refers to the type of lume.

Much like the Monster, the SKX007 features an impressive rehaut, which I really like. It joins up the dial with the bezel seamlessly and to me a decent rehaut always shows good attention to detail, as there’s no part of the watch left untouched. The rehaut contains the minute track, with white thin printed lines for each minute, and thicker ones for each hour. I feel that it finishes the dial well and is again immaculately done.

Whilst the dial is rather simple, it is timeless in its design, and exemplary in its implementation. 

The bracelet

The bracelet that came with my Seiko is the Jubilee, making it the Seiko SKX007K2. I must say from the outset that I was expecting a similar quality bracelet to the Seiko Monster. Alas I was quite disappointed. 

The main thing going for the jubilee bracelet is how graciously comfortable it is. Because each link is so short, it moulds around your wrist with ease and feels great. 

But, I’ve found that’s where the pleasantries end. The end links are hollow, and don’t fit the case very well or follow the lines with good enough accuracy. And I was bitterly disappointed when the sealed pin for the pivot of the locking flap on the buckle broke after light wear, resulting in the whole thing falling apart. I was a little surprised with this. Just for reference, the bracelet measures 22mm wide at the lugs, and 20mm wide at the buckle.

But, all is not lost, as this meant I had to put a leather strap on the SKX007. Wow, what a transformation this made! The only handy 22mm wide leather strap I had was from my trusty Christopher Ward C11 with quick release pins (every leather strap should have these in my opinion). What was previously frustration turned into delight as it provides a completely different look for the watch. The jubilee just didn’t do it for me from as aesthetic standpoint, but the leather strap makes the watch look great.

There are obviously oyster and rubber straps for the SKX007, but I can’t pass comment on either of these. I have read that the oyster is higher quality than the jubilee which is good. And I don’t think much can go wrong with the rubber. 

The movement

There’s not a movement out there that can rival the Seiko 7s26 in terms of affordability, build quality and being so hard working. It was first released in 1996, and many of these original movements are still going strong without a service. So don’t be surprised if your SKX007 lasts for 15 years without skipping a beat.

Obviously because of the nature of a low cost movement, there are sacrifices you have to make. These are the fact that you can’t hand wind the movement, and the seconds hand doesn’t hack. What does this means for you as a wearer? Not a great deal. When the watch has stopped, it only takes a small amount of movement to give it enough of a wind to start it up. This is mainly thanks to Seiko’s Magic Lever Winding System, which allows the movement to wind quickly, and with the rotor spinning in either direction (clockwise or anti-clockwise). 

Regarding the non-hacking seconds hand, this is only a problem if you want to set the watch with perfect accuracy on the second.

Regarding the 7s26’s accuracy, it’s proving to be very good out of the box. It’s about 7 seconds fast a day, which is most definitely acceptable for a watch costing £150 (remember that’s only 2 seconds more than a COSC certified movement). 

The 7s26 is not built to be good looking. Rather, it’s designed and made to be rugged and cheap. Thankfully I have can’t see the movement due to the solid screw-in caseback.

The 7s26 is the perfect no-nonsense, dependable movement for the SKX007.

The competition

There’s no surprises as to what watches are the SKX007’s competition. The main one is its big brother, the Seiko Monster.

The Seiko Monster is also an ISO rated dive watch, with similar excellent build quality to the SKX007. However, the stock Monster bracelet is a marvellous piece of engineering – much better than the SKX007. But, it has a very definite design style. It’s a bit too brash for some, and in my eyes not quite as good looking as the SKX007. 

The other option is also from Japan, in the form of the Orient Mako. This is more glamorous and smarter looking than the SKX007. Very high quality, and a similar price to the SKX007 to boot. It also has Orient’s in-house movement which is a neat selling point. The main drawback with the Mako is that it’s a mineral crystal, whereas the SKX007 has a more hard-wearing hardlex crystal.

I’m not going to say which one you should buy, because they’re all excellent value for money, and all have their plus and minus points. 

Final comments

I was a little apprehensive when I first bought the Seiko SKX007. I was worried that I wouldn’t like it or that it would not live up to everyone’s comments and the accolade it’s generated over so many years. I’m pleased to say I’m suitably impressed. The jubilee bracelet is pretty average, but slap a decent leather strap on the SKX007 and you’ve got yourself a simple yet brilliant watch for the price. Yes it’s quite utilitarian and not the most elegant, but I think that’s part of its charm. It doesn’t try to be something it’s not. All it wants to do is serve you in the best way it can for as little money as possible.

The build quality and fit and finish of the SKX007 is definitely higher than the average watch at this price no doubt about it, thanks to the proficient and adept chaps at Seiko. The machining of the case and every element of the dial are spotless and executed with exemplary precision. 

So, as much as I really didn’t want to do this (I really wanted to be a little disappointed with the watch to justify not buying one sooner), I must say that the SKX007 IS as impressive as everyone makes it out to be.

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There are a million and one reviews of the Seiko Monster out there, so I won’t go into too much detail as I’m sure you have heard it all before…

The initial impressions

The two things that impressed me immediately – as they do for all others who buy this watch – was firstly, the insane lume, and secondly, the tank of a bracelet this thing has.

The size in itself isn’t so “Monsterous” by today’s standards anymore, as pretty much 80% of watches nowadays are 42mm or bigger.

The lume

The lume… it’s bright. Very bright. Give it a quick charge and away to goes! Really sets this watch apart from all the other dive watches out there. It has a nice green colour to it. Nothing more to say really, apart from yes, what you have heard is right and it kicks butt!

The bracelet

I have heard many people who have had a collection of watches that costs thousands and thousands say that the bracket on the Monster is the best they have ever seen on a watch. I agree, albeit I have a much smaller amount of watch experience! It truly is incredibly well built. It is so lovely and smooth, and the clasp gives you a feeling that it is never going to pop off by accident with its great double lock. There is a nice polished section where the pin goes through on each link. This is a nice touch and I think is much better than having the whole link brushed steel. Each link is a couple of mm thick and is solid steel (of course), which makes it pretty heavy – but also makes it feel like a tank.

The dial and hands

The first thing I HAD to do was see “the rocket” for myself. This is when all the hands line up together and make what looks like a rocket. It is hard to find any pictures of this, so I have taken one for your viewing pleasure. You can find it in the gallery section below.

I like the rehaut/minute track running around the outside of the dial. It curves up, which allows the dial to meet up with the crystal. The crystal of course is Seiko’s hardlex, which is supposedly harder than sapphire, but not as scratch resistant. It is still pretty hard to scratch it though, so don’t worry if you are a kind of guy who won’t buy a watch unless it has a sapphire crystal. This will still do you fine.

The case

The case is very well machined. Strangely, Seiko opted to leave the crown blank, which is a shame. I would have liked an engraved Seiko logo on there. But I guess this is to keep costs down. The crown guard extends from the bottom lug. The bezel has the loveliest action on any bezel I have ever experienced. Turning it gives a lovely satisfying sound and it is very easy to manipulate.

The movement

The movement is Seiko’s hard as nails 7S26 automatic movement. This literally will last you years and years without needing a service. It lacks a couple of the usual features on most automatics today though, as in it doesn’t have hacking seconds, nor does it allow hand winding. Just a simple gyrate of the watch will get it going though. It has the usual 40 hours or so power reserve. My Monster wasn’t the most accurate, but they are easy to regulate. It runs at 6 ticks per second, or 21,600 bph, and is very silky smooth. No stutter on the second hand at all.

Final thoughts

The question is not should I buy this watch. Because the answer is YES! The question is more about the aesthetics. If you are happy with how it looks (as it is quite a unique looking watch), then there is no other watch that should grace your watch collection. The only thing that should ever get in your way of buying one of these is the looks. There is no other watch that offers this level of finish and quality at this price. FACT.

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