These two models are very similar in construction – the differences being the dial and bezel insert, and both pose different questions. Whilst both boast vintage vibes; you may prefer the slightly more traditional vintage Tudor snowflake sub influence of the Näcken, or the slightly more out-there Tikuna – which takes inspiration from vintage UG Polerouters, the Longines Legend Diver, and some other vaguely sci-fi-looking stuff from the ’70s.

Whilst which one you prefer is down to personal choice, one thing’s for sure – these are built to last, in a beautiful manner. Let’s check them out.

The specs

• Dimensions: 40mm diameter x 11.5mm height x 48mm lug to lug
• Weight: 144g
• Water resistance rating: 30ATM / 300m
• Movement: Miyota 9015
• Accuracy: Näcken: +9.0 sec/day; Tikuna: -11.6 sec/day
• Lug width: 20mm
• Warranty: 2 years, 6+6 guarantee (6 weeks to return watches for a full refund, net of shipping costs; and
• guarantees the movement for 6 years from the watch’s date of production)
• Price: US$650.00
• Buy here:
  • Näcken: https://nthwatches.com/collections/subs/products/nacken-vintage-black
  • Tikuna: https://nthwatches.com/collections/subs/products/tikuna

The video review

The case

First thing’s first – the size of these cases fit so well on the wrist. Not only is 40mm a real sweet spot for vintage-inspired divers, but also the slender height of 11.5mm is a joy to have strapped on. Divers (especially those rated over 200m) so often measure over 12mm, and you’ll be surprised the difference just the smallest amount makes.

The shape is a lean barrel, with down-turned lug tips which hug the wrist well. The finishing is spotless and rivals watches much more than the Nth subs; it’s primarily brushed with a polished ridge along the top and bottom edges. The drilled-through lugs offer quick and painless strap removal, as well as a vintage vibe.

The watches are loaded with a smooth 120-click uni-directional bezel, which is a joy to use. All of the inserts are either DLC or PVD; if it’s black or some shade of dark grey, it’s DLC. Otherwise, it’s PVD. In either case, Chris informs me it’s the thickest (and highest quality) application Nth can get. The toothed grip of the bezel is stupendously machined: clean, crisp edges and perfect finishing.

The crown is another lovely aspect of the case. It has the Nth logo deeply set within the end – and yep – it’s lumed. The lack of crown guards is another vintage nod. The shape is on the flat side, which sits neat and flush to the case; a good thing as there are no crown guards present. It has great grip, has a smooth thread, and feels solid in the hand.

The screw-in caseback is a simple, no-frills affair – polished outer ridge surrounding a brushed flat disc, with the logo and 3 specifics rotating around the centre.

The double domed sapphire crystal provides a clear view of the dial at even the sharpest angles. Whilst it does have an anti-reflective coating, it is still a little bit reflective.

The dial(s)

This is clearly the primary difference between these two watches.

The Näcken is a “safer” option, taking clear cues from Tudor’s snowflake sub. The traditional snowflake hands and the accompanying hour markers are a tried and tested design which works great.

I love the textured base of the dial, which catches the light so gently and peacefully. I’m also a sucker for a date window at 6, as it keeps the dial symmetrical. The gentle border around the window is neatly executed and is a subtle addition.

Whilst the Näcken can be classed a bit of an homage; the Tikuna, on the other hand, is certainly more out-there with a unique style. If you check out vintage UG Polerouters and the Longines Legend Diver, you’ll see the inspiration. Chris’s description of “and some other vaguely sci-fi-looking stuff from the 70’s” fits well; whether it’s the red lines, unusual hands, or extravagant hour markers, there’s something about it that takes you back 50 years.

The strength of the Superluminova lume is unreal. I asked Chris Vail how and why it’s so darn good, and he said it’s simple: a good application makes a big difference, and that’s plain to see here. It’s so fast to charge, glows so bright, and lasts all night, despite being a type of lume that sounds many other brands use.

Legibility is therefore excellent: not only due to the bold designs but the lume strength too.

The bracelet

Whilst the build quality of the bracelet is precise, visually I feel I would have preferred the width of the central link to be wider, with thinner outer links. However, that’s my personal preference, and it won’t stop me from wearing the watch. The bracelet is 20mm wide at the lugs, tapering down to 18mm at the clasp which fits well on the wrist.

The finishing of the bracelet is completely brushed, which will hold up valiantly against scratches. The side profile of each link is sort of grain of rice-shaped; which means it’s soft and comfortable on the wrist as it moulds around it.

The fully brushed double-locking diver’s clasp is sturdy and reassuringly secure. The angular top flap features the Nth logo neatly engraved, and 6 micro-adjustment positions ensure you can get a perfect fit.

The movement

The movement powering the Nth Näcken and Tikuna is the prevalent Miyota 9015. It seems to be the go-to movement for non-Swiss brands who want an affordable decent high-beat automatic. There’s little wonder too, as they are consistent, solidly dependable, and boast all the same specs as the ETA or Sellita equivalent.

They’re a bit ugly, but that’s not an issue here due to the closed casebacks.

The specs are as follows: a high beat rate of 28.8k bph (8 ticks a second), 42 hours power reserve, 24 jewels, hacking seconds, as well as hand and automatic winding capabilities.

Final comments

In the outset, I eluded to the quality of the Nth subs cases. Whilst some may shrug it off, the quality of the case, bezel, and crown are genuinely class-leading. Beautiful construction and finishing to rival watches costing much more, as well as insane lume which is also some of the best I’ve seen on a microbrand make the Nth Näcken & Tikuna the real-deal: a serious diver that’s built to last. This is exemplified when you consider the impressive 2-year warranty and 6+6 guarantee (6 weeks to return watches for a full refund, net of shipping costs; and guarantees the movement for 6 years from the watch’s date of production).

The Näcken is the safer choice, whilst the Tikuna is a more unmistakable design. Either way, you’re sure to get a superb watch that will last.

The post Nth Näcken & Tikuna Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

The specs

• Dimensions: 40mm diameter x 11.5mm height x 48mm lug to lug
• Weight: 141g
• Water resistance rating: 30ATM / 300m
• Movement: Miyota 9015
• Accuracy: +9.0 sec/day
• Lug width: 20mm
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: $625 / £470
• Buy here: http://www.janistrading.com/amphion-dark-gilt-with-date/

The case

The Amphion is quite obviously inspired by the Submariner; with the case being a rather pleasant nod to its classic styling.

It has a few little features – which takes what was already great and makes it more capable and suitable. For instance, something simple like drilled-through lugs are always handy to have; as they ensure easy strap changing.

A large, oversized crown with no crown-guards turns this element into a feature; especially when you check out the fact the the Nth logo engraved on the end is filled with lume. Such a simple thing that looks awesome – I’m surprised I’ve not seen it before (one of those “why didn’t I think of that” moments).

Whilst the majority of the case is brushed, there is a subtle polished top and bottom edging which provides clean lines and a variety of reflections.

The DLC-coated steel bezel insert is engraved with extraordinary accuracy, and all markings are filled with strong lume. I really like the flat triangle at 12 rather than a bulbous pip; and the full 60-minute marking is very welcome too.

The screw-in caseback is incredibly simple: small detailing in the centre and a polished outer rim.

The case also features a plethora of lume; not only all the bezel markings but also the engraved Nth logo in the crown. This is a feature that is on all Nth watches, and is such a simple but awesome addition which makes these watches stand out.

The dial

The dial is simple; with a retro inspired gold “gilt” theme running through: the hands, logo and hour markers are all in this colour. It’s a nice to see something a bit different to the usual steel you see so often on Submariner homages.

A rather well concealed date wheel is located between the 4 and 5 hour markers, which is a circle rather than square cut out of the dial. The wheel has a black base to it, allowing it to be camouflaged well.

The hands are a charming divergent to the usual mercedes hands used so much: a wide, stubby leaf shaped hour hand, and a thin sword minute hand coupled alongside a stick second hand with a lumed arrowhead tip.

The lume is extremely strong and evenly applied on the hands and hour markers.

The bracelet

The fully brushed bracelet (bar the polished sides) is smooth and very well put together. The links are secured with screw-in rather than straight up pins, which makes it easy to resize.

A double-locking buckle ensures the Amphion will never accidentally fall off the wrist. With the Nth logo engraved on the top bar and 3 sets of micro-adjustment, it’s practical too.

The movement

The Miyota 9015 is a movement that is found so often in microbrands. And rightly so; as it’s well known as being a very good and reliable affordable alternative to the Swiss automatics. It has all the specs you’d expect: 42 hour power reserve, hand winding and hacking seconds hand, and automatic winding. It’s a little on the plain side in terms of looks, but this doesn’t matter here as you can’t see it behind the full steel caseback. The accuracy is coming in at a respectable +9.0 seconds a day.

Final comments

I’ll be the first to admit that $625 / £470 is on the higher end that I’d be willing to spend on a Miyota-powered micro brand, as for that kind of money you’d easily get a Swiss Made auto. But, I can say that the quality of the Nth Amphion is easily on par, if not better than those in the same price bracket. This almost makes the “Swiss Made” label just that – a label. One that if you don’t care too much about, then feel free to leave it – as just because a watch has that marking on doesn’t mean it’s a superior timepiece.

The Amphion has created quite the impression on me for the week that I had it; the fit and finish is remarkable and I just really love the design. The lumed logo in the crown is an addition that – whilst is rather pointless in a usability perspective – is such a cool feature it really impresses the thought that’s gone into the watch. It’s a sturdy, well-rounded timepiece that is sure to impress.

The post Nth Amphion Dark Gilt Watch Review appeared first on 12&60.

The specs

• Dimensions: 40mm diameter x 12mm height x 48mm lug to lug
• Weight: 150g
• Water resistance rating: 30ATM / 300m
• Movement: STP 1-11
• Accuracy: +60 s/d
• Lug width: 20mm
• Warranty: 2 years
• Price: $700 / £530
• Buy here: http://www.janistrading.com/azores-mint-no-date/

The case

The case is a straightforward barrel shape which is brushed for the majority, although it does feature some interesting touches – such as the polished lug shoulders and bezel and box sapphire crystal which sits tall above the bezel. Chris admits that the Azores is a modern take on the classic compressor-type case, which is certainly obvious to see.

The general fit and finish is very, very good.

The dual crown is a cool touch which I’m always happy to see – the top crown controls the inner rotating bezel, whilst the bottom crown is the regular movement control. They’re both screw-in, which can be a bit tricky with the top crown if you want a quick adjustment to the inner bezel, and they both have great grip and a nice, solid thread. The bottom crown features the Nth logo deeply engraved and filled with lume, which is an awesome attribute that surely impresses.

The caseback has a pretty splendid deep-stamped motif of a classic diver’s helmet, with details engraved surrounding it.

The dial

The Azores is available in two pastel hues – vanilla and mint; both of which offer a gentle vintage appeal. This version is obviously the mint version – which I find to be a pleasant, soft alternative to the usual green you see regularly.

There is a textured central disc to the dial. It has lots of strong lume – with a large arrow containing the hour at each corner.

Surrounding the dial proper is an internal rotating bezel. This is at a higher level than the base, yet is still flat with a chamfered edge. This creates depth to the dial and all markings are lumed.

The hands are pitched, are bold and easy to read and filled with just as strong lume as the rest of the dial.

The bracelet

The bracelet is a mixture of brushed and polished finishing – with 2 wide brushed outer links flanking 5 polished and rounded central links. It’s a very well machined and constructed bracelet, however on a visual perspective it doesn’t quite do it for me. It’s very smooth and comfortable.

The buckle is quite interesting, with a very pleasant to use divers extension which just glides out at the bottom

The movement

The movement powering the Azores is the STP 1-11 – a relatively new incomer providing an affordable Swiss Made automatic alternative to the big boys such as the ETA 2824-2. This one is obviously not regulated at all, as it’s running at +60 sec/day which is crazy. Remember, this is a press sample so I’m hopeful this is the case.

Final comments

I’ll be honest and say that visually, the Nth Azores isn’t really my style. But of course, that doesn’t stop it from being the watch that it is. $700 / £530 is certainly on the high side for a microbrand, but the statement “you get what you pay for” couldn’t be more true. The fit and finish is excellent and everything is constructed in a very high quality manner. Whilst I didn’t get a long amount of time with it, it was long enough for the Nth Azores to make an impression.

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